View Full Version : Aem V2
amelen
12-10-2003, 10:46 PM
Since all the posts are gone i decided i would see what people had to say on the V2 (preferably for the auto).. I have been following the intake's for the auto for a while.. I was told by comptechusa that the icebox would be made for the auto.. then as soon as they came out i told them it didn't look like it on the picture, etc..
Anyway, to make this short.. i am now looking at the AEM V2.. i don't like that they took away the dyno because of the poor results.. but i guess its on par with the AEM CAI for the HP gains. Anyway.. i would like to hear from the people that installed it and the gains they measured or felt.
Spent198
12-10-2003, 11:29 PM
Well, the AEM V2 is an awsome option for someone who would like some decent power without the headache of worrying about hydrolock. Of course, you will always see better results with a cold air intake. You may do a quick search to find some dyno results. Here is a nice picture of a V2 intake on a base RSX...
http://www.1space4all.com/1badsup/assets/images/db_images/db_ex_0211.jpg
Good luck!
amelen
12-11-2003, 12:51 AM
Edit: double post.
amelen
12-11-2003, 12:51 AM
They dyno's i have seen for V2 and CAI are similiar for the base..
My problem with CAI's is that its pretty much impossible for a lease.. What would be the best price i can get a V2 for? Also i heard there were some problems with the V2 for the base (something with wires).. but since the forum has been cleared i can't find it now..
I remember splicing of cables was required.. i would need to avoid that.. so if someone can tell me what wires i would need to buy.. or anything that will help..
thanks.
AdamDC5
12-11-2003, 02:12 AM
I've only seen one person with a V2 on a base. I don't even think it was designed for the base he had to rewire the IAT. The hoses didn't fit they were too short or something. I believe it was a type s intake he recieved. Has anyone else even got one yet?
:dontknow:
1BADSUP
12-11-2003, 02:47 AM
That was me that installed it on a base auto. Instead of providing a cable that's easy to plug in, they decided to give you connectors where you have to splice the wires and crimp them. If you have a crimper, you're OK.
I did get the correct intake for the base. I guess I was supposed to cut the hoses to fit but my original hoses were only 5 months old so I reused them.
I really like the V2 and if I had to do it over, I'd still pick the V2 over injen and AEM CAI.
amelen
12-11-2003, 10:59 AM
Sorry to be asking you quesions in two different threads.. but you can just reply here since this is now the base forum..
Do you know the exact wire i would need to get so i don't need to cut anything? Would it be avaliable in a car shop? (Not acura)?
1BADSUP
12-11-2003, 01:02 PM
Originally posted by amelen
Sorry to be asking you quesions in two different threads.. but you can just reply here since this is now the base forum..
Do you know the exact wire i would need to get so i don't need to cut anything? Would it be avaliable in a car shop? (Not acura)?
It might be available in a car shop but will definitely be available in an electronic shop.
amelen
12-11-2003, 01:47 PM
Whats the exact wire i would need to purchase? If i get this, i wouldn't need to do any cutting, right?
1BADSUP
12-11-2003, 02:23 PM
I've been trying to contact AEM to make a suggestion. No one has returned my calls so I just went to their website and posted my question on AEM's forum. Hopefully, someone will give me a call and they'll provide us with the appropriate connectors.
RJC RSX
12-11-2003, 08:10 PM
i won't buy it simply because it has a K&N filter
SuperSlowRsx
12-11-2003, 11:25 PM
Newbie question, what is a crimper and splicing wires mean splitting them rite? Sorry about this cause I Just order mine (v2) on monday expecting it to come this week. And I would like to know the heads up on this.
AdamDC5
12-11-2003, 11:34 PM
Originally posted by RJC RSX
i won't buy it simply because it has a K&N filter
Hmmm, what is wrong with K&N?
:dontknow:
1BADSUP
12-12-2003, 12:11 AM
Splicing is the electronic term to slice a wire. Crimping is to pinch part of the connector so the wire will stick to it.
amelen
12-12-2003, 12:22 AM
1BADSUP.. thanks.. let me know how that goes.. I plan to get the intake in a few days.. so it would be nice if i had the right wires to go along with it. I called aem before and i always got a response.. what time are you calling at? Call so its around 11am cali time... (2pm for me).
yeahi
12-13-2003, 08:03 AM
hmm, type-s IM and type-s TB here i come, along with a V2 made for the type-s.
bnice3001
12-13-2003, 09:18 PM
What octane fuel are you guys using on your base with the CAI installed?
RJC RSX
12-13-2003, 09:50 PM
Originally posted by AdamDC5
Hmmm, what is wrong with K&N?
:dontknow:
here's a thread on the matter with some good info; make sure to see the link posted by Jay.
http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=96157
Midnight Runner
12-14-2003, 02:11 AM
I'm reading this thread and i know all the answers to all your questions... And i figure for once i'd actually answer them. Afterall, it's the time of giving.
My car is bone stock manual except for the V2 intake. I was the test car. Anyhow, people wondering about the power difference between the two intakes of CAI and V2. They are pretty much identical. If you have a CAI already, i'd say don't bother getting a new intake, unless you are that worried about hydro locking. The difference in Hp is something like 1 hp. I highly doubt your butt dyno is gonna be able to feel that. With the V2 and nothing else my car put down 138.xx to the wheels. Torque figures were jumping around. As high as 140, as low as 132 I think..
As for this whole wire issue, it's really not that hard. The kit comes with the wires. You cut the wires that are there, put on a connector with needly nose pliers. Crimpers can't hurt. Then you plug it into what's existing. I think it's even color coded. All the parts as i remember come with the intake. Worse case senario, just put the wires together and use wire nuts.
I use 87 octane in my car.. it's cheaper
When i first posted a pic of the intake someone asked why i installed it backwards.... :dontknow: How you would be able to do that, :dontknow: I have no idea. That post was rather funny.
And about the filters, they aren't K&N filters that come on the AEM intakes. they are AEM filters, and no they aren't K&N filters with AEM labeling. I say that cause i got a small tour of their factory and got to see the filters being made there.. @ AEM.
I'll probably drop in here from time to time. Not that often. usually in so cal forum.. hope that answers most of your questions. and remember, there is always google.com if you don't know what a wire nut is.
I'd post a pic but club rsx isn't letting me. As for that breather tube, AEM includes a breather tube. infact, i think the breather tube that aem includes is too long and needs to be trimed. They include the breather tube for people that may have gotten rid of theirs if people used a CAI as their previous intake. THE STOCK BREATHER TUBE WORKS FINE. just thought i would emphasize that so people didn't have to read through the entire paragraph.
Hope all that stuff helps.
salem
12-14-2003, 10:17 AM
Thank-You Midnight Runner for clearing up all those questions:thumbsup:, particularly the one concerning the wiring. You eased my mind on purchasing it as a Christmas gift for myself:D
James S
12-14-2003, 11:02 AM
Cheaper is not a reason to buy lower octane, especially when you're spending hundreds of dollars on performance mods. It won't be cheaper in the end when you damage your cylinders.
RJC RSX
12-14-2003, 11:31 AM
that's interesting about the filters on the V2. Do you know what material they are made out of?
AdamDC5
12-14-2003, 03:52 PM
Originally posted by James S
Cheaper is not a reason to buy lower octane, especially when you're spending hundreds of dollars on performance mods. It won't be cheaper in the end when you damage your cylinders.
He doesn't have hondata or anything so whats wrong with 87?
Anything higher is a waste of money, well at least thats what I got from a quick search.
1BADSUP
12-14-2003, 06:17 PM
87 octane is enough, maybe 89. As long as your engine doesn't ping you can get away with an 87. If or when you get hondata, you would need 91 octane or higher.
RJC RSX
12-14-2003, 06:25 PM
modern engines don't ping, they retard timing. I'm stock and personally use 89 to help compensate for the high humidity and low altitude where i live, plus i see better mileage.
amelen
12-14-2003, 11:55 PM
Midnight Runner.. my problem with cutting the wires is that i have a lease.. and acura really wouldn't like that... so i am trying to avoid all cutting .. i should be able to get a wire/connector to avoid the cutting, right?
Midnight Runner
12-16-2003, 02:50 AM
Filters are made out of cotton cloth. That's pretty much what it is. The cloth is dyed. They had a machine that squirts ink onto the white cotton to make it whatever color it is.
I thought the cars retard the timing because they ping. :dontknow: whatever.. I know higher octane won't let it retard the timing as much. If you wanna argue about it.. feel free, i won't respond.
as for the wiring, maybe this text diagram sort might help you out. Hopefully i can do this clearly enough.
Legend
---- = wire or wires..
(as) = the air sensor
>< = connector.
ok so right now stock your car is like this..
------(as)
This is how my car's air sensor wiring is set up.
------><------------><--(as)
if you put two connectors then when you return the car you can just omit the one section of wire.. so when you return the car after your lease, it will look like this..
-------><--(as)
that make sense. Maybe i can attach a pic now.. if the server lets me. (ack.. maybe not ) Basically just use two connectors. I think you have to, and I'm not sure how many AEM provides.
worse case senario, just wire nut them back together and then wrap it with electrical tape. So much of the cars wiring is like that stock.
Go_Canes
12-16-2003, 09:39 AM
Originally posted by RJC RSX
modern engines don't ping, they retard timing. I'm stock and personally use 89 to help compensate for the high humidity and low altitude where i live, plus i see better mileage.
Sorry bud, ping = knock --> detected by knock sensor (catchy name, no?) --> ECU retards timing
James S
12-16-2003, 10:25 AM
The knock sensor doesn't retard the timing until AFTER it detects knocks, which means knocks have already occured. Please, follow the cause and effect line as posted by Go_Canes.
amelen
12-16-2003, 11:05 AM
Midnight Runner.. thanks for the info and diagram :).. do you know if car shops sell extentions for those things? I rather pay a few bux and not have acura bitch.
James S
12-16-2003, 02:27 PM
If you can find a male AND a female connector then you can just make your own extension with some wires. Or you could just stick some shucked wires into the connector and elmer's glue them in and do the same to the intake.
1BADSUP
12-17-2003, 02:38 AM
Amelen,
Midnight Runner is right about the connectors. AEM gives you those single snap on connectors. All you have to do when you return your leased car is to remove their cable and reconnect the original IAT connector to their supplied connector. It's hard to explain but I'll take some pictures and post.
By the way, I found AEM V2 for $230 at **************.
Capbill
12-17-2003, 12:55 PM
The sequence of events, I think is:
inciped knock(not audible ping, not necessarily destructive)--> retard timing before 2nd stage ping(audible, can be destructive if sustained).
Thus one could push the advance curve with 87 octane & use the sensor/retard feature to stay at the edge of the envelope. Then with higher octane then more power & better economy can be had. I also have seen an improvement with 89 octane.
RJC RSX
12-17-2003, 10:03 PM
Originally posted by Midnight Runner
Filters are made out of cotton cloth. That's pretty much what it is. The cloth is dyed. They had a machine that squirts ink onto the white cotton to make it whatever color it is.
That's disappointing for me to hear; I'm convinced that foam is a better filter medium than cotton.
sorry, I mispoke about my pinging comment.
amelen
12-17-2003, 11:04 PM
1BADSUP.. thanks..
btw.. i found it for $225 shipped and got 3 stores to price match.. ordered from the one closest to me (still going to take 5 days delivery.. arg..)
So when i return the car, i can remove the AEM stuff and the original wires will connect back? (i don't need to cut the original wires at all?)...
If you can get some pictures i can get you a place to host em.. (thats actually my job.. lol.. own and run a hosting company).
Go_Canes
12-18-2003, 12:49 AM
Damm, $225 shipped is a good price. Mine was $246 shipped.
AirForceOneRSX
12-18-2003, 03:19 AM
Originally posted by amelen
1BADSUP.. thanks..
btw.. i found it for $225 shipped and got 3 stores to price match.. ordered from the one closest to me (still going to take 5 days delivery.. arg..)
Where did you find that price?
Link me!
amelen
12-18-2003, 11:37 PM
http://www.adventon.com/acb/showdetl.cfm?&DID=24&Product_ID=16188&CATID=21
Its for the type S.. but you can get most sites to price match and throw in free shipping.
1BADSUP
12-20-2003, 01:37 AM
I finally got a hold of Robert from AEM. He took notes and said that he will relay my recommendation to their engineering department.
AirForceOneRSX
12-25-2003, 03:39 PM
Originally posted by amelen
http://www.adventon.com/acb/showdetl.cfm?&DID=24&Product_ID=16188&CATID=21
Its for the type S.. but you can get most sites to price match and throw in free shipping.
Can I get a link to some sites that will do price matching?
Any is this mod going to take a long time to install because of the wiring?
salem
12-25-2003, 08:19 PM
Air Force One: It took me a little over two hours to do, and i have absolutely no experience whatsoever putting on a mod. The longest part was taking off the stock airbox. Also, the directions/photo seemed a little bit off when trying to take off the bracket that holds the airbox. I just left it in (it didn't affect the fit). They included all the wiring and connectors in the box. It would defintely help to have crimpers. It was very frustating, but after it was complete- it was nice. I'm not going to go to any dyno to test it out, but i certainly can feel gains.
bnice3001
12-28-2003, 07:30 PM
Originally posted by salem
Air Force One: It took me a little over two hours to do, and i have absolutely no experience whatsoever putting on a mod. The longest part was taking off the stock airbox. Also, the directions/photo seemed a little bit off when trying to take off the bracket that holds the airbox. I just left it in (it didn't affect the fit). They included all the wiring and connectors in the box. It would defintely help to have crimpers. It was very frustating, but after it was complete- it was nice. I'm not going to go to any dyno to test it out, but i certainly can feel gains.
Yea, I agree. A wire crimper would've saved me some time. Instead, cripming the wires with pliers was not as easy as it seemed.
AirForceOneRSX
01-02-2004, 08:09 PM
And the gains, they are noticable? How about over periods of time, when the engine gets up to temp.
I was pondering a way of combating this problem, since the V2 is technically classified as an SRI. The only thing I can think of to combat it is to install an Injen Heat Shield around the pipe fitting closest to the air filter. Does anyone think this heat shield would fit?
salem
01-02-2004, 09:19 PM
Air Force: I just installed mine last Tuesday. I'm not going to spend $ on a dyno, so i can't really back up what i say with #'s- just by what it `feels'. At low rpms (<4000 i'd say) there isn't much difference. However, at high rpms i can defintely feel an increase in pull. Like I said, though, i'm not going to a dyno, so numbers i can't give ya'. Was it worth it to me? [ie, Would i do it again?] Overall, yes-
1-punching it around town is more fun 2- i like the sound (laugh if you like) 3- i installed it myself (1st time i've done anything carwise)
As far as heat soak, again i have no #'s but i can relate my experience. I installed it at my folks home in Kill Devil Hills (on the coast of NC) and I live in Asheville (in the mtns of NC) on the other side of the state. After the roughly 7 1/2 hour drive across the state, i honestly couldn't tell any difference in performance.
Maybe this helps
:)
1BADSUP
01-03-2004, 03:00 AM
I haven't seen the injen heat shield but it may restrict air intake. What will help is if you can customize a pipe or vent that will bring cold air in. I'm looking into that myself.
AirForceOneRSX
01-03-2004, 04:11 PM
The way I see it is that the gains from the V2 are some type of mysterious air charging voodoo. We know that they are there, but we don't know how they're there. So does it really matter how they get there?
As far as I am concerned, head soak is probably minimal. The point where air is drawn in sits far enough away from the throttle body that it would need to get boiling hot under there for there to be any heat soak.
James S
01-03-2004, 09:04 PM
The V2 has two different passages inside the intake, one shorter and thinner, another longer and wider. It changes the route that air flows based on air velocity (RPM of the engine) to give the best performance because shorter runners are good for low range but longer are good for high end. V2 has both. It's versatile.
vBulletin® v3.7.3, Copyright ©2000-2012, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.