This is a how-to for installing rear lowering springs on an 02-06 Rsx or a 02-05 Honda Civic Si.

As with all of my DIY guides this is only a GUIDE it is not an INSTRUCTION MANUAL. Do not hold me responsible for injuries or damages. If you have input on how this guide can be improved or if something is incorrect pm me or post below the text/pictures. Thank you.

Ok, let me start by saying this installation is not a beginner install. I would rank this as an intermediate level install. I did this install on an 02 RSX base with my friend. Neither of us have installed lowering springs before. As for skill level he was a beginner I am much more experienced. It took us 3 hours total and that is with plenty of stops for taking 226 pictures for this diy and consulting the shop manual on the laptop.

In theory the whole process is quite easy. There are a total of 8 bolts/nuts that must be removed and replaced. Four holding the shock/spring combo from the top, 2 holding the shock/spring combo on the bottom, and 2 holding the shock inside the spring. It will be much more clear in the DIY.

There are two main methods to removing the shock from the spring. 1 with a special tool called a spring compressor and the 2nd, by hand. This guide shows how to remove the shock by hand. The by-hand method without the spring compressor has risks... Choose wisely. Read below for more information.

Tools. The right tools make a hard job easy. The wrong tools make a easy job needlessly hard. I cannot stress that enough. You need the following to completely remove your old springs and reinstall your new lowering springs:

(FYI the "drive" is the opposite side of the socket. It is what your ratchet hooks into. 3/8, and 1/2 Drives will be used)

Large 1/2 Inch Drive Breaker Bar
Large 1/2 Inch Drive Ratchet
Medium 3/8 Inch Drive Ratchet
Torque Wrench 1/2 Inch Drive
Short Extension 1/2 Inch Drive
14mm Socket 3/8 Inch Drive
17mm Socket 1/2 Inch Drive
19mm Socket 1/2 Inch Drive
14mm Combo Wrench
5mm Alen Wrench
Jack
2 Jack Stands
Hacksaw
Chock or Piece of Wood
WD-40
Brake Kleen or some type of cleaner
Rag

*********

These were his springs of choice. Tein S-Techs.

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjA2MjZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

Here is a quck spring comparision:

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjExMjZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjExNDZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

Lets get started. Start by losening the lug nuts on the rear wheels with the 1/2 inch drive breaker bar, the 1/2 inch drive extension, and the 1/2 drive 19mm socket. Do not take the lug nuts off just loosen them so they can be removed once the car is in the air. It is important to follow a star pattern losening process. Do not losen one lug that is right next to another that you have already losened for example. Here is a picture for reference:

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjA2MDZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

Next. Place the gear selector in 1st gear and let the car roll till it comes to a stop. Place the block of wood or chock in front of the tire to prevent rolling. Jack the rear of the car up on the rear jacking point which resembles a hook. Place both jack stands in the correct locations located on the seam welds on either side of the car. Make sure the car is high enough so that you have plenty of clearance underneath it. I usually jack it up as high as my jack will possibly go. *** Do not max out your jack stands *** Here are some pictures for reference:

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjA2MTZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjA2NDZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjA2NTZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

Ok the rear of the car should now be in the air. Make sure that it is properly supported. Now it is time to remove the lug nuts and both wheels. Place the wheels and the lug nuts aside out of the way. Picture:

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjA2ODZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

Ok time to start the removal of the stock shock/spring assembly. Start by removing the interior shock panel covers inside the car. You will have to collapse both seats in the rsx and the ep3. Removing the interior trim pieces will allow you access to the strut tower bolts. They are 14mm and there are two on each side. The interior trim pieces that you will have to remove are located just behind the rear seats on both chasis. On the rsx this is a little more involved and includes removing the carpet and halfway removing a trim piece. In the ep3 there is a small slot that facilitates to removal of the whole plastic strut cover. Because the process is different for both cars I do not have pictures. I do however have pictures of the strut tower bolts which look just about the same on both cars:

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjA3MjZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjA3MzZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjA3NDZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

Use your 3/8 inch ratchet and your 14mm 3/8 inch drive ratchet to remove the bolts. Or air tools if yah got em ;) Pictures:

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjA3NjZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjA3ODZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjA3NzZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

Ok you are done up top. Now it is time to move underneath the car. For reference here is the rear coil spring/shock mounting bolt on the bottom. It is 17mm and is torqued down extremely tight. Spray this bolt generously with WD-40.

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjA3OTZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjA4MDZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

Time to remove the 17mm Bolt. *** CAUTION*** this bolt is on tighter than all hell. I actually BROKE our craftsman 17mm socket :meek: ... I had absolutely no luck with the breaker bar guys. If your bolt is on as tightly as ours was then you will need alot more leverage. I recommend sticking the pole that is used to lower/raise the jack into the end of the breaker bar for more leverage.

***WARNING*** Be very careful when removing the bolt as the shock/spring combo will decompress. Keep your body and hands out of the way. Here are some detailed pictures:

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjA4NDZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjA4NTZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjA4NjZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg


Simply pull out the shock/spring combo. This is what everything should look like removed:

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjA5MTZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjA5MjZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjA5NjZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjA5NzZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

Complete this same process on the opposite side. You should have both spring/shock assemblies out now...

Ok here is where things get a little complicated. In order to get your new lowering springs onto the stock shocks the strut (shock/spring combo) must be dismantled. There are basically two ways to do this... Some people say you should use a spring compressor and some say you should just do it by hand. This is a touchy subject since the spring has potential energy behind it and could fly off causing damage,injuries, or death. Bottom line the professional way to do it is with a spring compressor. Remember that.

I would recommend the spring compressor for safety... but I did this by hand. There was 0 tension on the spring but that doesnt mean that there will be 0 tension for you. Choose wisely. Do not hold me responsible for injuries/damages if you do this by hand and the spring launches...

The following is for removing the shock from the spring (dismantling the strut) by hand. If you do it this way be aware of the risks and use EXTREME CAUTION. Gloves are recommended.

Move to an area that is clear of all people and valuables in case the spring does decide to recoil. Place the strut (shock/spring assembly) on the gound and support it with something. I used a small gutter, rocks, and my foot. Insert the allen wrench into the top of the strut and hold it with your hand... Use your 14mm combo wrent to losen the small nut. Use caution and losen it slowly. Both of mine came off with no problem and no dangerous spring rebound whatsoever but evey strut is different so again... use extreme caution. Pictures:

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjEwNDZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjEwNTZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjEwMjZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjEwMzZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

Once the 14mm nut is removed from the strut you will be able to dismantle it. Here are more pictures for clarification:

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjEwNzZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjEwODZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjEwOTZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjExMTZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

Remove each part. One by one... First remove the 14mm nut and the spacer beneath it. Then the upper mount that has the studs. Next remove cover that slides into the uper mount. Next remove the upper spacer, then the lower retaining piece, and finally the yellow bumpstop. Remove all parts and clean them with your cleaner. DO NOT get any of the cleaner or any oils on the shock shaft. ***IMPORTANT*** do not do both struts at the same time. Leave one of the struts intact or partly intact as a reference guide as to how every part works and to what orders they go in. Some photos:

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjExNzZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjExODZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

Place each part on the ground just as you removed them to prevent frustration. Also refer to the other strut assembly for reference as well. I will put each part on one-by-one if you are unsure of how they go back together.

The yellow bumpstop must be cut to accomodate the shorter spring. Take the bumpstop and cut it in half with a hacksaw. Here are some pictures. Before and after:

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjExOTZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjEyMDZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

Keep the larger part of the bumpstop and discard of the other portion that will go unused. It is now time to reinstall all of the old parts with the new springs. Here are the pictures step by step follow closely.

Start by installing the spring. Turn it so the lower portion rests in the shock.

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjEyMTZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjEyMjZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

Follow up next with the part that slips into the upper mount and also protrudes into the spring. It is large and black in color and goes face down.

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjEyMzZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

The shortened bumpstop is next in line. Slide it down the shaft a good amount. It will be repositioned later.

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjEyNDZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

Time for the lower retainer. Slide it down the shaft face down till it stops. It should be flush on the top without any indentations. Pull the bumpstop up till it stops. The side that you see in the first pic goes down onto the shaft.

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjEyNTZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjEyNjZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjEyNzZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

Its time for the small black metal cover that goes over both the retainer and the bumpstop. Slide it down all the way.

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjEyODZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjEyOTZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjEzMTZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

The lower spacer is next (the one below the strut tower. Picture:

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjEzMjZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjEzMzZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

The upper shock mount is next. It is the part with the 14mm studs sticking out of it. Lower it onto the shock the best you can it will be slightly lop-sided...

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjEzNDZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjEzNTZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

Ok you should almost be done. You need the upper spacer (the one that goes between the top nut and the upper strut mount and then lastly the 14mm nut. Place the spacer face up like in the pic. Use the allen wrench to lock the strut as you tighten the nut down as best as you can.

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjEzNjZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjEzNzZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjEzODZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjEzOTZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjE0MDZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

Ok do that again please ;) Just to the other strut. Easier said then done huh.

Ok its time to reinstall the struts again. The reinstall process should be just like the removal process with the sole exception of aligning the strut. Remember when you removed it and it decompressed and sort of shot out of place??? Yah remember that. Well now you have to compress the strut without compressing the rest of the rear suspension. Long story short its a bitch but I found away to make it much much easier.

There are two things to align here. 1 is the top two studs and the other is the lower mounting postion where the 17mm bolt went through. What you want to do is to align the strut so that the studs fit through the top. Once you have that done test fit the bottom. It will most certainly be mis-aligned. Remove the strut from the top and twist the bottom of the shock till it aligns with the lower portion. Keep doing this till everything looks right. By know you should see the problem here. The rear suspension is completely relaxed yet it does not open far enough to acomodate the strut. Now that everything is aligned you need to compress the strut. So the strut doesnt move fasten down the upper bolts (14mm). The strut tower bolts should be torqued to 43 lbs. Use the same tools that you used previously to remove the bolts.

Here you can see the problem where the strut mounting point doesnt line up with the hole on the rear suspension:

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjE0MTZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjE0MjZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

Get the jack and a deep socket. Place the socket on the jack and proceed to jack the socket up till it makes contact with the bottom of the strut. Be very careful because there is pressure building as you compress the strut. Watch you hands, and face, eye protection is never a bad idea ;) Continue compressing the strut till the hole aligns with the hole on the rear susupension. Then slide the 17mm bolt through and fasten it down with the same tools you used to loosen it. Torque it to 45 lb-ft which is pussy compared to what I thought Honda tightened it down.

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjE0NDZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjE0MzZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTIxNjE0NTZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

Do this on the other side and you are done with the spring install. Reinstall the wheels and thread the lug nuts on. Jack the car up and remove the jack stands. Next lower the car to the ground slowly. Remove the chock(s) and inspect the rear suspension. Also reinstall the interior pieces that you had to uninstall to gain acess to the strut tower bolts.

After install on the RSX we didnt get one single creak or pop at all but I would assume they would be normal as the suspension settles down during the first drop. It looks great too by the way :) Remember the suspension will drop a little more as it settles over the next few days and weeks.

Torque Specs:

- Upper Strut Mounting Nuts (14mm) = 43 Lb-Ft
- Lower Strut Mounting Bolt (17mm) = 45 Lb-Ft
- Nut on Actural Strut (14mm) = 22 Lb-Ft


This concludes the DIY. You are done congratulate youself, have a beer, enjoy a smoke whatever floats you boat lol. You just saved a shit load of money :)

Yea so thats my 9 page DIY (on microsoft word) with 60 pictures (that I had to fucking resize and upload) that took me almost 4 damn hours.... totally worth it though if you guyz can use this to work on your Ep3s and Dc5s :)

Any ?s, suggestions, advice, or problems pm me or post below... aight L8r.

Good DIY. That jack and socket trick does it all the time. You just have to be careful that it doesn't pop off and go flying at your head! ;)

wow you always have the best writeups/diy

wow you always have the best writeups/diy

Thank you I work extremely hard on all my DIYs to bring you guys the best pics and installation tips which should reduce frustration and install times. :)

Just finished the front lowering spring install DIY...

http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?p=9017530&posted=1#post9017530

Thanks for a great write-up. I noticed you reused the stock shock with a lowering spring. I'm sure you know that's not the greatest idea.

This guide would have been great for me to use today - if only you had used Koni replacement shocks!!

Instead of the jack/socket combo you used to align the shock bottom with the bolt holes in the control arm, I used the jack at the body and a piece of pipe I had laying around to maneuver the shock into proper alignment. I placed the pipe under the shock like you did with the socket and raised/lowered the jack until the bolt slid right in.

Glad you advised people to use a spring compressor. I had a buddy teach me the same years ago. Better to be safe than sorry, it only takes a little bit longer that way.

Thanks for a great write-up. I noticed you reused the stock shock with a lowering spring. I'm sure you know that's not the greatest idea.

This guide would have been great for me to use today - if only you had used Koni replacement shocks!!

Instead of the jack/socket combo you used to align the shock bottom with the bolt holes in the control arm, I used the jack at the body and a piece of pipe I had laying around to maneuver the shock into proper alignment. I placed the pipe under the shock like you did with the socket and raised/lowered the jack until the bolt slid right in.

Glad you advised people to use a spring compressor. I had a buddy teach me the same years ago. Better to be safe than sorry, it only takes a little bit longer that way.

Your welcome... Yes I do know that the life of the shocks will be compromised with the installation of lowering springs. It actually isnt my car its my friend's and he is aware and ok with that. :)

Nice write up! I couldn't get the photos to load (just red Xs) but your detailed descriptions are clear enough to do the job even without the photos. One thing I would add: After a major suspension modification such as this, getting a professional computer alignment from a reputable shop would be a good idea. Lowering springs can add significant negative camber. Oh, that reminds me of another point: Camber in the rear is not adjustable with the stock suspension components on the RSX. With a rear lowering spring install I would recommend installing a rear camber kit which replaces the solid horizontal links with adjustable ones. About $120 for a good pair. Keep up the great work!

thats awesome...but i cant see any of your pics =( and on all of your DIYs i cant see them either....ty for the write up tho

awesome. gonna do mine soon. thanks for the write up!

IM installing some Tien S pros today and I was wondering about getting a front and rear camber KIT. Is this something I will need? Can I just install the springs themselves and be OK???? Will I need alignment?? Also if I install these today can I get the camber kit and put it on later or should I do it all at once??? PLEASE HELP

Great write up helped me a lot.
One thing i would say as an alternative to the risky socket and jack trick to get it back into place would be; theres a lip on the bottom of the strut assembly where the spring sits. you can get the jack to sit under, its a lot easier then the socket in my experience anyway.

Well thanks to this write up, I got the rear springs off last night, here's a couple of points though:
1) When removing the rear coil spring/shock mounting bolt on the bottom, using the socket and jack trick will align the hole so you can slip out the bolt. I spent an hour (stupid me) spinning the stupid bolt around in circles before figuring out we just needed to slide it out. I ended up hammering it out but the socket and jack trick was so much easier!
2) My god, air tools are a god send, its a bit of a tight fit with an airgun, an air ratchet would have been handy.
3) I didn't have any spring compression either but for safety used spring compressors. $11 over at Harbor Freight or use and return at auto stores.
4) This guide ftw!

Well thanks to this write up, I got the rear springs off last night, here's a couple of points though:
1) When removing the rear coil spring/shock mounting bolt on the bottom, using the socket and jack trick will align the hole so you can slip out the bolt. I spent an hour (stupid me) spinning the stupid bolt around in circles before figuring out we just needed to slide it out. I ended up hammering it out but the socket and jack trick was so much easier!
2) My god, air tools are a god send, its a bit of a tight fit with an airgun, an air ratchet would have been handy.
3) I didn't have any spring compression either but for safety used spring compressors. $11 over at Harbor Freight or use and return at auto stores.
4) This guide ftw!
haha i bought and returned springs compressors and a puller, better than renting

thanks for the write up and especially the pics. they def made the install a breeze today. i installed ground control coilovers

you need to use a better server for your pictures....they are always down

Great instructions and pics :thumbsup: ... installation should be a breeze. Now is removing/installing the front springs and shocks similar to the rears? Anything in particular I should watch out for with the fronts? :dontknow:

Never Mind about the front install... I just saw the DIY for it.:o

I just installed mine, I gotta say airtools are the way to go. only took me 25 mins per side on front. we have a DIY auto shop on ft. bragg so if theres a post around where you live get some soldier to vouch for you. and it ran me 60 dollars front and back including all tools, spring compressor, and bay space. I also used their nice ez to use swing arms. totally worth it. good luck to you all and thanks for the instructional DIY

why can i not see the pictures!?!

ahhh I needed thisss toooo!!! now i cant seee pics....

ahhh I needed thisss toooo!!! now i cant seee pics....

me too. i cant find anythingelse either

I'm going to install my progress springs tomorrow, maybe I take few pictures :)

or use this

http://www.ivtecdaily.com/rsx/mods/springs.html

its pretty simple i just did mine yesterday..you dont really need pictures.. if you need help PM me. I had no problems with the front or back.. although i never took of the tie rod for the front, its a lot easier if you dont.

^^^ how did u change springs without taking off tie rods?

I followed this DIY during my Tein S-Tech installation and I must say that they are right on. Thanks again for the great right up.

I cant see any of the pics..... help please

man.. i would do my own springs install but i don't have the time.. and i'm too lazy :p

You never have to remove the front tie rod. Just undo the 2 bolts that are at bottom of strut pop the axle out and then the strut comes out. I wish there were pics available, cause I dont want to waste my time on my suspension if my coilover sleeves wont work. The rear sleeves have a threaded hole bout the diameter of your most people's pinky finger. Does anyone know if that seems right? The box said its for the 02-04 RSX-S but I never seen anything like that.

I can't see shit your talking about, Bro . Fix it

all the pics dont work :(

thx for the link !

I'm going to install my progress springs tomorrow, maybe I take few pictures :)

or use this

http://www.ivtecdaily.com/rsx/mods/springs.html

Dats a great write up I was wondering if u can post da pics again

Can't see anything

anyone got pics of the bumpstop that have to cut?

which part to keep? how much to cut off??