Acura RSX, ILX and Honda EP3 Forum banner

DIY - Valve Clearance Adjust (K20A2/A3)

48K views 54 replies 42 participants last post by  criscris0123 
#1 ·
Didn't find that anyone else had done a DIY for this yet so I figured I'd join up and add this. I did the adjust a while ago and I thought i had more pics but I'll work with what I have - I borrowed some screen shots from the FSM for clarity (My first DIY so be kind).



Maintenance Time!



Parts / Tools
  1. Valve Cover Gasket
  2. Gasket Material
  3. 10MM Socket
  4. 12MM Socket
  5. 3/4" Socket
  6. Long 1/2" Extension + Ratchet (Rotating Engine)
  7. Spark Plug Socket + 3/8" Extension
  8. Feeler Guage

Valve Adjust - Mine is a K20A3 but the specs are just a bit different for the A2 and there's a few more of em to check. This should be checked with the engine cold as well.

  • Step 1 - Jack up the car and put it on jack stands. Remove the front driver side wheel so you can access the port to the crank bolt to roll the engine over manually to hit TDC for each cylinder.
  • Step 2 - Remove the intake cover and the spark plug cover.
  • Step 3 - Next disconnect the plugs for the coils and pull the spark plugs - I'm not sure if it's required but I labeled each one as I took it out to make sure it went back in the same place.



    You should end up with something looking about like this.



  • Step 4 - Now comes the fun! Remove the valve cover and set it aside.



    All opened up.




  • Step 5 - Now it's time to rotate the engine to get to TDC on the #1 Cylinder. Below is the location of the cylinders facing the front of the engine as well as the adjuster screw locations.



    TDC on the #1 Cylinder is setup by lining up the marks on the VTC actuator and the exhaust cam gear (C) and verify that both B and A are as they are shown.


  • Step 6 - With Cylinder #1 where it is you can now break out the feeler gauge - (I found the Craftsman angled one made life a whole lot easier).



    You should insert the feeler gauge between the top of the valve and the adjusting screw on the intake and exhaust valves.



    To get the correct size, start with one that is in the middle of spec and move up or down accordingly. You should feel slight drag on the gauge when moving it around, not too much and not to loose. If it is out of the listed spec than break the nut loose and tight or loosen as necessary and re-check your clearance.

  • Step 7 - Move on to Cylinder #3 by rotating the crank 180 degrees clockwise and verify the marks are as follows.


  • Step 8 - Move on to Cylinder #4 by rotating the crank 180 degrees clockwise and verify the marks are as follows.


  • Step 8 - Move on to Cylinder #2 by rotating the crank 180 degrees clockwise and verify the marks are as follows.


  • Step 9 - Now that your done you can slap everything back together - BE SURE to put the gasket material in the locations show below or otherwise it will leak - ask me how I know. :run: Then tighten in the order show below as well.





All done!


Criticism / Suggestions wanted. I have gotten alot of info from this forum over the past 2 years, figured it was time to give a wee bit back
 
See less See more
14
#2 · (Edited)
another way to turn the crank is to jack the car up on the passenger side and put the car in fourth gear and just rotate the rim clockwise. that way you dont have to bother with taking off the rim. and it is good remove the spark plug so there's less compression and its easier to spin, just make sure nothing goes down there. good guide though
 
#5 ·
I did this a few months back - I'm sitting at 118k right now - she still runs like a top.
 
#7 ·
i'm doing this, this weekend thanks! :)
 
#17 ·
I need to do this. Just hit 100k. I have put on my coilovers,intake,exhaust,ect. I change my oil and all that too. Just wondering would this be something I could do myself. Just dont wanna get in over my head. Seems like its not to hard, just worried since its my only car.ha
 
#18 ·
my car is making a ticking noise from the engine. does it need a valve adjustment? i plan on doing this to see if it'll quite down. just changed the oil and tranny fluid today. how quick should i address this? is it a 'fix-it-now' fix or can i go for another week? i've been hearing this for a little while now but thought it was normal. after reading this and listening to some clips on youtube, i'm not so sure anymore.
 
#20 ·
nice
 
#24 ·
see below

[*] Step 1 - Jack up the car and put it on jack stands. Remove the front driver side wheel so you can access the port to the crank bolt to roll the engine over manually to hit TDC for each cylinder.
as you can see OP listed it in his post. only thing is, the crank pulley is on the PASSENGER side of the car...i would remove the passenger wheel to access the crank bolt port.


unless you have a Boss 302 or a 289 HP with solid lifters, you have hydraulics that never need adjusting.
^^^ :rolleyes: why are you posting? you add nothing to the thread.
 
#29 ·
Great DIY. Just a suggestion to specify the torque specs for the valve cover grommet studs. I've heard people breaking these by not using the torque spec.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top