DIY Broken FogLight fix. Lexan XL10. - Page 3

TommyYooCanCook · 03-27-2006, 11:59 PM

I thought I'd chime in with some long-term pictures and results.

First off, I did this roughly two years ago (May '04). I first noticed bubbling about a year ago (should have taken pictures, dammit!).

Here's what they look like:

And a close-up:

And the lens, up close and personal. Check out the bubbling, it was intense:

Finally, the new lens in the housing:

As for my experiences, I'd like to say that this is a cheap method for fixing up the foglights - certainly cheaper than getting the whole new light kit. I don't think the fact the lexan is not curved like a true lens really makes that much difference. The reflectors are low and wide, so optics are not as important as light output.

Long-term, these are only a solution because the lexan is cheap, and easy to cut (once you get the hang of the dremel - I did my cutting and shaping in less than twenty minutes). I sealed the first set with some clear caulk-like adhesive, and for this new set I have not sealed it at all. I blame my laziness and lack of motive to go to Home Depot. So I'll see how it pans out not being sealed.

The bubbling, as you can see from the third picture, is pretty bad. But this is after two years! Also, I do not remember which side (UV or not) I put on the inside or outside. For this current set, I have done it so the UV side faces inward. I figure since that's where the majority of the light is coming from (UV and visible), it should be the more correct direction, although I agree with what was said earlier in this thread that bubbling is inevitable because of the nature of this polycarbonite.

In any case, I'm hoping these are good for another year or so - I'll be happy with that.

ClA · 03-29-2006, 07:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ParedRSX

It does reduce it, but I did just have one crack with the Lamin-X on it.

CIA, how are they holding up??

Update: 3/29/05

Been about 2.5 months now. No cracks or even scratches. It didn't turn yellow either. I used it everynight on my way home afterwork (about 10 miles drive).

Will update again.

ClA · 03-29-2006, 07:56 PM

Tommy.

Wow, they really bubbled up for you after 2 years. Thanks for sharing pics. Can I also ask which brand did you use for the first set? Mine says it can withstand up to 490 degrees of heat (or 900 degree Fahrenheit).

But for $10 and 4 hours of work, two years run time is PRETTY GOOD. Compared to $300 OEM fog replace (dealer charge me $150 per glass) and only last a few months before cracking again. I still think the plastic is a great solution.

I heard there are both sided UV plastics, I wonder if that'd help. Yes, I used one sided and have it faced inwards facing the light source. Will report again.

ParedRSX · 03-29-2006, 08:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ClA

Update: 3/29/05

Been about 2.5 months now. No cracks or even scratches. It didn't turn yellow either. I used it everynight on my way home afterwork (about 10 miles drive).

Will update again.

Cool man, I appreciate the reply. What bulbs are you running with them...? Plain OEM bulbs, or special PIAA yellows or a similar type?

TommyYooCanCook · 03-29-2006, 08:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ClA

Tommy.

Wow, they really bubbled up for you after 2 years. Thanks for sharing pics. Can I also ask which brand did you use for the first set? Mine says it can withstand up to 490 degrees of heat (or 900 degree Fahrenheit).

But for $10 and 4 hours of work, two years run time is PRETTY GOOD. Compared to $300 OEM fog replace (dealer charge me $150 per glass) and only last a few months before cracking again. I still think the plastic is a great solution.

I heard there are both sided UV plastics, I wonder if that'd help. Yes, I used one sided and have it faced inwards facing the light source. Will report again.

ClA, I used the same brand from the Home Depot, XL10. The bubbling began roughly one year after I installed them - then they just continued to get worse, and I got lazy.

I agree, two years is pretty good. In fact, even with the bubbling, the light output was okay and the foglights were usable, just looked pretty bad up close.

I don't recall which way (UV side facing in or out) I installed them the first time, but this time (last weekend) I installed them with the UV facing inwards.

ParedRSX, I know you're asking ClA, but I'm running OEM bulbs. I've wanted PIAA's, but never got around to it. I don't know the difference in temperatures or light outputs, but am also curious.

rly44 · 03-29-2006, 08:56 PM

For you guys suffering from bubbles forming in the Lexan XL10. I've come up with a solution. You know that metal bracket that the bulb usually sits in.. Well, if you remove that, no more bubbles. I tried upgrading that thing to block heat towards the lense but the heat still affected the lense. The main issue is that thing directs heat towards the lense, hense the bubbles... Now if you think this is a bad idea due to glare or what not, i've noticed i dont get more glare than normal.. Also, the ebay replicas do not have that piece either from what I can tell.. So have at it and see how this helps you..

ParedRSX · 03-29-2006, 08:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TommyYooCanCook

ParedRSX, I know you're asking ClA, but I'm running OEM bulbs. I've wanted PIAA's, but never got around to it. I don't know the difference in temperatures or light outputs, but am also curious.

I appreciate the reply. The reason I'm asking is b/c despite the same wattage (55) the PIAA's run VERY hotter... and it's noticeable...

rly44 · 03-29-2006, 10:10 PM

I forgot.. that reminds me, i've been using the yellow NOKYA bulbs in my fogs with the lexan..

ClA · 03-29-2006, 11:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ParedRSX

Cool man, I appreciate the reply. What bulbs are you running with them...? Plain OEM bulbs, or special PIAA yellows or a similar type?

OEM. They get VERY hot by touch.

ClA · 03-29-2006, 11:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rly44

For you guys suffering from bubbles forming in the Lexan XL10. I've come up with a solution. You know that metal bracket that the bulb usually sits in.. Well, if you remove that, no more bubbles. I tried upgrading that thing to block heat towards the lense but the heat still affected the lense. The main issue is that thing directs heat towards the lense, hense the bubbles... Now if you think this is a bad idea due to glare or what not, i've noticed i dont get more glare than normal.. Also, the ebay replicas do not have that piece either from what I can tell.. So have at it and see how this helps you..

I think that piece of metal absorbs the heat from the lightbolts. I guess.

TommyYooCanCook · 03-30-2006, 07:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ClA

I think that piece of metal absorbs the heat from the lightbolts. I guess.

rly44, I'm under the impression that the metal thing in there has to serve a purpose. It can't be a bracket holding the bulb - it's not touching it, and sort of looks more like a guard of some kind. I dunno. Not in the Helms manual either, damn.

rly44 · 03-30-2006, 08:53 AM

Yes I know that.. It is either a heat shield or a glare shield. Either way, it is what is directing all the heat at the center of the lense which causes the bubbles. I took it off, no bubbles, and i dont see any stray light anywhere.. Believe me that I have checked as I just did a retro and spent a good amount of time aiming and testing what the yellow fogs lit up compared to my low beams.

ClA · 04-03-2006, 01:39 AM

If the piece of metal solves the burn problem, then just take it off, not going to affect the light much.

dcsleeper408 · 04-04-2006, 07:23 PM

CIA: thanks for the cutouts mang!
they are suppose to be a little greenish right?

ClA · 04-06-2006, 04:35 PM

You got them already?

No, they should be completely clear, no color at all. Take off the protective sheets on both sides.

I have one more set for sell if anyone wants it. $30 shipped.

-Vanguard- · 04-15-2006, 12:05 AM

ummm you said 800F right?

Dont some Fog lights burn at 3000K? Some up to 5000 even?

3000K is about 4900 F, a little higher, rounding down.

RSX-CT · 04-15-2006, 02:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by -Vanguard-

ummm you said 800F right?

Dont some Fog lights burn at 3000K? Some up to 5000 even?

3000K is about 4900 F, a little higher, rounding down.

Degrees kelvin in this case refers to correlated color temperature of a black body when heated to x temperature. It does not refer to the actual heat the producing light source puts out. Which by the way, 3000k would start melting more things on your car besides the housing the bulbs are in.

mojorizin · 04-15-2006, 03:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RSX-CT

Degrees kelvin in this case refers to correlated color temperature of a black body when heated to x temperature. It does not refer to the actual heat the producing light source puts out. Which by the way, 3000k would start melting more things on your car besides the housing the bulbs are in.

So the Klan came up with this color temp. measurment scale?

RSX-CT · 04-15-2006, 03:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mojorizin

So the Klan came up with this color temp. measurment scale?

LOL, guess I should specify that as a black carbon body. A chunk of carbon not.

SHOGUNN · 04-17-2006, 05:16 PM

UPDATE:the stuff I used was called Lucite and is anit-yellow...Its been almost 2 months and they are holdin up pretty good...no bubbles but the stuff started to curve...there is like an indentation on both of them now....this is deffinetly better than the glass shit cuz that stuff sucks ass and always breaks!!! I bought a whole peice about 4"x4" so I got alot left if I have to do it again

ClA · 04-21-2006, 06:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by -Vanguard-

ummm you said 800F right?

Dont some Fog lights burn at 3000K? Some up to 5000 even?

3000K is about 4900 F, a little higher, rounding down.

4900F Degrees? You kidding me right?

"Turn on the laser!!"

Wouldn't that be cool.

I can cook a chicken in the oven at 250 degrees, a pizza at 450.........4900F?? That'd burn the house down........

CC2 · 04-24-2006, 04:53 PM

I'm running XD 4300K HiD fogs.
I wonder how long it would take for the lexan to bubble?
If it lasts a year than that is worth it,but a couple of months would be too much hastle.

ClA · 05-09-2006, 08:05 PM

Its May 06 and my fogs are still looking very good.

SomeGuy4186 · 05-10-2006, 02:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CC2

I'm running XD 4300K HiD fogs.
I wonder how long it would take for the lexan to bubble?
If it lasts a year than that is worth it,but a couple of months would be too much hastle.

dont HID's burn cooler than halogens? if thats the case, i assume they'd last longer with HID's than normal.

640k · 05-19-2006, 12:54 PM

Yeah so Acura can suck my fruit snacks. My car has been down for three days and the first day I get it back on the road, I get a hole in my fog light. I had the same shit happen to my 02. What crap. I'll be doing something similar too.

03-27-2006, 11:59 PM	#51
TommyYooCanCook ... and you can too! Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: 914, NY Posts: 3,269 iTrader: (4)	I thought I'd chime in with some long-term pictures and results. First off, I did this roughly two years ago (May '04). I first noticed bubbling about a year ago (should have taken pictures, dammit!). Here's what they look like: And a close-up: And the lens, up close and personal. Check out the bubbling, it was intense: Finally, the new lens in the housing: As for my experiences, I'd like to say that this is a cheap method for fixing up the foglights - certainly cheaper than getting the whole new light kit. I don't think the fact the lexan is not curved like a true lens really makes that much difference. The reflectors are low and wide, so optics are not as important as light output. Long-term, these are only a solution because the lexan is cheap, and easy to cut (once you get the hang of the dremel - I did my cutting and shaping in less than twenty minutes). I sealed the first set with some clear caulk-like adhesive, and for this new set I have not sealed it at all. I blame my laziness and lack of motive to go to Home Depot. So I'll see how it pans out not being sealed. The bubbling, as you can see from the third picture, is pretty bad. But this is after two years! Also, I do not remember which side (UV or not) I put on the inside or outside. For this current set, I have done it so the UV side faces inward. I figure since that's where the majority of the light is coming from (UV and visible), it should be the more correct direction, although I agree with what was said earlier in this thread that bubbling is inevitable because of the nature of this polycarbonite. In any case, I'm hoping these are good for another year or so - I'll be happy with that. __________________ '02 NBP Type-S \| KIA '05 NBP Type-S \| 78,000 miles is a fresh start Photoshop & Photography \| Moderator .... . / .-- .. .-.. .-.. / .-- .. -. / .-- .... --- / -.- -. --- .-- ... / .-- .... . -. / - --- / ..-. .. --. .... - / .- -. -.. / .-- .... . -. / -. --- - / - --- / ..-. .. --. .... - .-.-.- Last edited by TommyYooCanCook; 06-28-2007 at 08:38 AM.

03-29-2006, 07:56 PM	#53
ClA Banned Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Your Mom. Posts: 26,417 iTrader: (1)	Tommy. Wow, they really bubbled up for you after 2 years. Thanks for sharing pics. Can I also ask which brand did you use for the first set? Mine says it can withstand up to 490 degrees of heat (or 900 degree Fahrenheit). But for $10 and 4 hours of work, two years run time is PRETTY GOOD. Compared to $300 OEM fog replace (dealer charge me $150 per glass) and only last a few months before cracking again. I still think the plastic is a great solution. I heard there are both sided UV plastics, I wonder if that'd help. Yes, I used one sided and have it faced inwards facing the light source. Will report again. Last edited by ClA; 03-29-2006 at 08:00 PM.

03-29-2006, 08:56 PM	#56
rly44 06 NBP Type-S Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: CR. Iowa Posts: 309 iTrader: (0)	For you guys suffering from bubbles forming in the Lexan XL10. I've come up with a solution. You know that metal bracket that the bulb usually sits in.. Well, if you remove that, no more bubbles. I tried upgrading that thing to block heat towards the lense but the heat still affected the lense. The main issue is that thing directs heat towards the lense, hense the bubbles... Now if you think this is a bad idea due to glare or what not, i've noticed i dont get more glare than normal.. Also, the ebay replicas do not have that piece either from what I can tell.. So have at it and see how this helps you.. __________________ Just another RSX in Iowa..

03-29-2006, 10:10 PM	#58
rly44 06 NBP Type-S Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: CR. Iowa Posts: 309 iTrader: (0)	I forgot.. that reminds me, i've been using the yellow NOKYA bulbs in my fogs with the lexan.. __________________ Just another RSX in Iowa..

03-30-2006, 08:53 AM	#62
rly44 06 NBP Type-S Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: CR. Iowa Posts: 309 iTrader: (0)	Yes I know that.. It is either a heat shield or a glare shield. Either way, it is what is directing all the heat at the center of the lense which causes the bubbles. I took it off, no bubbles, and i dont see any stray light anywhere.. Believe me that I have checked as I just did a retro and spent a good amount of time aiming and testing what the yellow fogs lit up compared to my low beams. __________________ Just another RSX in Iowa..

04-03-2006, 01:39 AM	#63
ClA Banned Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Your Mom. Posts: 26,417 iTrader: (1)	If the piece of metal solves the burn problem, then just take it off, not going to affect the light much.

04-04-2006, 07:23 PM	#64
dcsleeper408 Ohh boyy! Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: the shark tank Posts: 1,733 iTrader: (29)	CIA: thanks for the cutouts mang! they are suppose to be a little greenish right? __________________ 13.9 w/ dcrh/injen cai/hayame 2.25 catback/nitto555/reflashed-n/a if u vtec. i- better! 1/18/10 HYDROLOCKED FTL!!

04-06-2006, 04:35 PM	#65
ClA Banned Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Your Mom. Posts: 26,417 iTrader: (1)	You got them already? No, they should be completely clear, no color at all. Take off the protective sheets on both sides. I have one more set for sell if anyone wants it. $30 shipped.

04-15-2006, 12:05 AM	#66
-Vanguard- Nobodys downsizing this Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: New York Posts: 4,508 iTrader: (0)	ummm you said 800F right? Dont some Fog lights burn at 3000K? Some up to 5000 even? 3000K is about 4900 F, a little higher, rounding down.

04-17-2006, 05:16 PM	#70
SHOGUNN DO WORK Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Im at where Im at Posts: 896 iTrader: (6)	UPDATE:the stuff I used was called Lucite and is anit-yellow...Its been almost 2 months and they are holdin up pretty good...no bubbles but the stuff started to curve...there is like an indentation on both of them now....this is deffinetly better than the glass shit cuz that stuff sucks ass and always breaks!!! I bought a whole peice about 4"x4" so I got alot left if I have to do it again __________________ JRSC 9PSI \| K-PRO \| INJEN \| DCRH \| POWERGETTER \| ESMM \| FUNCTION/FORM \| WILWOOD \| PROGRESS \| RPF1 \| COMPTECH \| AVIC D3 \| XD 6500K SUPERCHARGED CREW #38 PICTURE TRAIL

04-24-2006, 04:53 PM	#72
CC2 BOOOOOOOOOOOOST!!! Join Date: May 2004 Location: Toronto Posts: 64,126 iTrader: (63)	I'm running XD 4300K HiD fogs. I wonder how long it would take for the lexan to bubble? If it lasts a year than that is worth it,but a couple of months would be too much hastle.

05-09-2006, 08:05 PM	#73
ClA Banned Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Your Mom. Posts: 26,417 iTrader: (1)	Its May 06 and my fogs are still looking very good.

05-19-2006, 12:54 PM	#75
640k sigh Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: KY Posts: 12,228 iTrader: (11)	Yeah so Acura can suck my fruit snacks. My car has been down for three days and the first day I get it back on the road, I get a hole in my fog light. I had the same shit happen to my 02. What crap. I'll be doing something similar too. __________________ 640k's Part Out Thread - LAST CHANCE PRICING!!!!!!!