JDM side marker lights install

[Capbill]

Re. the BMW M3, is the side marker down on the side moulding? I the big rectangle above it a vent?

[Herofdday]

Originally posted by Capbill
Re. the BMW M3, is the side marker down on the side moulding? I the big rectangle above it a vent?

Sup Capbill:

I think that they're clear. I didn't really specify with the guys at South Bay BMW. I've bought a car there before from the same guy. He knows what I want, so I'm sure its clear. As for the side markers, they're on the side (not the side mirrors). The side markers are not square or rectangle on the new ones. Its going to be ummmm.... like a tear drop or a wierd triangle (very cool). Hahaha, I think its a vent, but didn't really pay attention to it. I sat down on the car and fell in love with it completely... didn't have time to check the b!&ch all out yet.

Three things I'm asked for them, bigger wheels, better tires, and better suspensions. I should go pick it up next year at the end of Summer (European Delivery).

Cheers!

[dyonysys]

this is an aweful pic but its the best i could find.

herofdday:
I think those side marks would look kickass on a RSX. I had planned on checking out the price when I saw these on a new 3 the other day.

[Capbill]

the M3 pic on bmw.com is not the same for the 3 series. It shows the side marker in the moulding & a very big rectangle higher on the side. It can not be the lite!

[Herofdday]

Originally posted by dyonysys
this is an aweful pic but its the best i could find.

herofdday:
I think those side marks would look kickass on a RSX. I had planned on checking out the price when I saw these on a new 3 the other day.

Sup dyonysys:

I don't forsee myself getting side markers for my car, but yeah, I'd go for those side markers if I was to get it. I guess I don't want them' is cuz' when I get my M3, both cars are going to be side by side in my garage, so its sort of "cheesy", IMO.

I guess that's why I went with the Yellow color M3. Was going to get a neutral color... but its too plain then.

Whoa... I just got a call from my dealer. He's asking if I want convertible or hard top. Which one to pick???

Capbill, I have no idea what you're talkng about. care to explain in better details?

[Capbill]

I went to the bmw.com site & looked up the M3. It had a side view of the car. It had a big rectangle just below the top line of the hood in front of the door line, behind the fender . also, it had a small orange looking marker(?) just behind the wheel well on the front of the side moulding. Go to the site.

[Capbill]

Correction! The marker is clear/white but all the Ms except the M5 have the vent which looks cluttered on the smaller roadsters & looks thrown on, on the coupe, IMO.

[lombard0]

Sidemarker Installation Instructions: (estimated time 4-6 hours)

First read over the entire instructions once before starting. If you do not have the experience or you don't understand the instructions or have the proper tools, DON'T do it. These instructions are offered "AS IS" and are for reference only. Verify that every step is applicable to your car. Also be warned that cutting holes in you fender may void the warrantee on that the fender.

These instructions are for use with the JDM Type R sidemarkers on a 2002 Acura RSX. ITEM#: OAS-SMDC5 PRICE: $56.95
http://www.optauto.com/webstore/prod...mber=oas-smdc5

NOTE: Both of my lights were identical. There wasn't a left and right version. The driver side has the printing correct and the passenger side has the printing upside down. So I must have 2 LEFTs. Check your lights BEFORE proceeding and make any necessary changes to these instructions. You may have to flip the template accordingly. You could have a left and right hand version, you could have 2 lefts (these instructions) or 2 rights.

The first thing that needs to be done is to determine the mounting location. I have studied several pictures of Honda Type Rs to determine the location that is specified here.

* So, use a string and tape it on your car following the accent line that runs through the door handle. Following this line, extend the string to the front fender and tape it near the wheel well. (see photo #1)

Next you will need to determine the cut out location.
* First print the template (attached ZIP file) AND verify the cutout against your lights for accuracy (both of my lights were identical, not a Left or Right hand version, so one light got installed with the writing on the lens right side up and the other upside down - this means the key/notch will flip).
* Using the cutout template, cut or fold the template along the "Accent line"
NOTE: Two templates are provided, one for Driver side and one for Passenger side. Make sure to use the correct one for the side you are working on and maintain the FRONT and UP references.
* Now position the template to align the top with the Accent line and the Fender line. This should place the bottom of the cutout hole at approximately 2- 1/16" and the center rear edge of the cut-out approx. 1-5/8" form the edge of the fender. (see Photo #2)

Now you need to apply masking tape under and around the template area to avoid scratching the paint when drilling and sawing.. You only need one layer but make sure you tape up a big enough area to be on the safe side. (see photo #3)
* After the tape is in place then transcribe the cutout from the template to the tape using a pen.

Give everything a double check. Is the template facing the correct way? Is the keyway in the correct location? If you have things positioned correctly then the sidemarkers will end up with the large tapered portion facing forward. Note the lens of the markers have an arrow, this arrow will point to the front.

AND, one last thing BEFORE you start cutting: remove the fender liner and check that there are no wires in the way and the sidemarker will not interfere with anything. You do not have to completely remove the liner. Just take enough of the mounting screws and clips to free the rear and top portions (see Photo #8). If you have aligned the template correctly there shouldn?t be any problems. If you elect to install the lights closer to the door, make sure you are clear of the other plastic liner inside the fender for the door opening.
* Now locate the center of the 3 holes to be drilled. They are shown on the template but you need to transcribe the points onto your masking tape.
* Once this is complete you can remove the template.
* Start by drilling holes in the 3 round corners of the cutout. Position the drill holes so that you can use a large size drill to make the final radius cut. Use an automatic center punch to accurately position your drill. Start with a small new or very good metal drill (1/8") and make a pilot hole.
* Next switch to a larger size drill bit (I used 3/8" for the 2 large holes and ¼" for the smaller hole) and open up the holes you previously drilled. If you do this correctly you will not have to make any cuts in these areas when you switch to using a saber saw. (see Photo #4)
* Before using a saber saw you should add some duct tape to the bottom of the saw to prevent scratching the painted surfaces.
* Use a new fine tooth (36 tpi) blade and finish the making the cut-out. You will find that the metal cuts very easily with this blade. Run the saw at or near full speed in order to get the smoothest cut.

When the cutout has been made you may need to trim the opening here or there. Use a small file and/or a Dremel tool. If you made your initial cuts carefully there shouldn't be much that needs to be done. Next, before fully snapping the light in, use a small file and debur the edges.

Once you have the opening exactly right to accept the light, you need to seal up the fresh cut metal edges that have become exposed.(see photo #5)
* Use some auto paint primer; you only need a tiny bit. Apply the primer around the cutout using a small brush or cotton "Q-tip". Apply 3 coats.
* At this point you can start moving the operation to the other side. Use the other template, observing the Front and Up references.
* Once you have applied three coats of primer and it has dried, apply some touch-up paint.

After completing the cutout operation for both sides, lets continue on to the electrical portion. During this time you can complete the painting operation for the other side and this will allow dry time for the paint. So, don?t get anxious and snap the lights in yet.
* Locate the large hole in the inner part of the fender. It's a little forward of the cutout. The size of the hole is just right for the large rubber grommet on the wiring harness. It was too hard to get a picture of this hole but it is easy to find, just look around a bit.
* Next, take your wiring harness, remove the connector NOT used for the light housing and add approximately 3 feet of wire to it. Solder the connections and use heat shrink to protect the connections. Then cover the exposed wires with ¼" split loom. Note: this step could be performed ahead of time.(see photo #6)
* Then you need to snake the wiring harness through the hole identified to take the rubber grommet and down the channel (toward the front) in the frame and out the small hole near the headlights. I found I had to use a snake as a lead for the wire.
* After pulling the wiring harness through, remove the turn signal light bulb and disconnect the wiring from it. The remove the short piece of split loom on the turn signal wire to expose the two wires you will need to tap into. Note: removing the connectors for the headlight will help with the access here. Also, removing the plastic reservoir bottle on the passenger side is a must.
* Strip away insulation on the two wires used for the turn signal. I did not cut the wires; I just strip away enough insulation so as to add my new side marker wires. I also stripped the insulation away from each wire in offset positions so that the two wires could not short out.
* Strip the insulation off your side marker wires and wrap each one of them in turn to one of the turn signal wires. Then solder them together. Add electrical tape to seal up the exposed wires. (see Photo #7)
* Slide some of the split loom over the wires just soldered and tape the loom up and seal the end as originally done.
* Now give things a test. Re-install the turn signal light and connector. Plug the end of the harness into the side marker light housing and put your ignition key in and turn the signal on. Check to see that the side marker and turn signal work. Also check your head lights to make sure you got those plugs back too.

If everything checked out ok and your paint has had plenty of time to dry, you are ready to install the sidemarker lights permanently.
* Spread some RTV or Silicon around the inside edges of the sidemarker light and then snap the light housing into the fender cutout. Make sure the tapered end of the housing faces the front.

OK, one done! Now just repeat and complete the process for the other side

Good luck, hope this helps. Photo #8 is the finished results

[lombard0]

Installation pictures

[lombard0]

Pics - part2

[mroby]

Great Instructions, I want it sooo bad now. I was saying that I was never going to put one on my car because I just didn't want that look. But that looks great. Oh well I'll have to think about it for a while.
Later
Roby

[Herofdday]

Sup All:

WoW... looks like a lot of work I think I'll pass on doing the side markers after all... I think I'll work hard at those 6 or 7 hours and get something else for my car. Just seems like a lot of work for something that'll not improve the drive of your car. Well, it may add 3.4673 hps.

It's great to be at Club DC5

[hoking-RsxS]

damn yo, that is exactly what iv been waiting for!! =) thanks

[Droopy drives rs-x]

Hey guys. I'm going to do this install in about 2 weeks after i'm done with finals. But couple questions, or advice for that matter.

1. Should i connect to the parking lights (so it's always on when my lights are one, or should i connect to the signal lights ? Does anyone happen to know how the JDM integs are connected? (i noticed some cars on the road have them as signals or always on)

2. Where should i buy it? i want JDM, but the optauto's $55 plus s.h. is a bit steep... i was looking more into the 50 with tax and shipping. Any suggestions? I'll need it within the week so i can install it during spring break.

thanks guys!

-Droopy

[Herofdday]

Sup Jay:

If you're going to do this, I want to do it to my car as well... I am going to connect the wiring to my signal light. Doesn't really make sense to have it hooked up to parking lights.

I think that I can ask someone I know (one of my sponsors) for a great deal for both of us. Maybe around $35.00-$40.00

Do you want clear or amber? I personally am thinking of going amber like JDM.

Let me know.

[Droopy drives rs-x]

i have a family friend who owns a body shop down in garden grove. I'll be having them cutting out the side as well as doing some custom paint jobs for me. heheh.

and i'll be ordering the actual JDM sidemarker, not a fake. Why? because i want to.

-Droopy

[Capbill]

I ordered from autotoys.com but they are back ordered(an other make for <$20) they recommend a sheet metal nibbler from Radio Shack. I see them as a safety item as (a turning aid rather than running lites) are DRLs. The pics of the new Civic SI has them as standard.
I ordered smoke with amber bulbs since if u look at the visibility in daylite of the fronts as an adjacent driver would see, additional flashing is needed.

[lombard0]

Attached is a file of a picture at actual size that you can print out and paste on to see how they would look. Make sure you set your printer to "NOT TO FIT TO PAGE". The printed size is approximately 2-5/8"w x 1-1/4"h

[Capbill]

I just received the lites. The box is stamped Eurolite, Civic 92 Made in Taiwan it is rounded ends 1 1/4 " H 2 3/4" W. So it is a legit HMC product, no rice here!!

[Droopy drives rs-x]

Hey Capbil! Go e-mail the owner at www.clonegts.com he has a new wiring plan where:

when signals are on and parking lights are off: sidemarkers match signals
when signals are off and parkings are on: the sidemarkers are on
when signals are on and parking lights are on: the sidemarker turns off when the signal turns on (so it's on every other blink)

He'll tell you how to wire it, and it's not that hard. btw, it's not the same wiring he has up on the site, but he told me he'll update that section later this week. Tell him Droopy with the rsx sent you. You might have to modify his way a little, as the celicas come with the sidemarkers wired into the parking lights already, and you'll have to do that first on your own.

I'll order and put in my JDM ones next week. ^_^

-Droopy

[Capbill]

This Sonar brand for $17.50 matches ur cutout exactly! The pieces are labeled
R & L so they notch in the front & the metal snap is to the rear. The bulb socket protrudes 2" with spades with a cutout for a standard connector catch clip.

[Capbill]

Thks, Droopy for the e-mail address.

[excess]

lombardo I keep printing out the template but it is printig out really small. I dont know what wrong, there is now way that is the size of the cut out. What should I do?

[excess]

Check out what it looks like

[Herofdday]

Originally posted by excess
lombardo I keep printing out the template but it is printig out really small. I dont know what wrong, there is now way that is the size of the cut out. What should I do?

open eyes wide open

Wow, this thread is big... my mechanic did the installs for me in less than 20 minutes. He didn't measure it that "intense" but it still came out perfect! He'll do em' for 60.00 including the hardware.