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Old 04-18-2017, 04:21 PM   #526
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ransom View Post
My car is running good. I'm trying to get a spot cleared up to hit a dyno.

The car is 3/4ish tuned I'd say. Right now it hooks up 22lbs in 3rd pretty good. Some spinning, but its got some big MH drag radials on it.

Full boost comes in just before 5k rpms, its a good feeling. lol
Nice! Can't wait to see the final setup!

[QUOTE=94b20gsr;54709065]
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I

How's the updates coming along?


The car is running well, but after the datalog analysis and seeing that I am in fact losing 2-4psi from belt slip on the top end I am going to wait until I have a tensioner setup on the car again before I mess with any values.
Ahhhh, that sucks man... If you are looking for an alternative from Merc, Ive seen the KTuned help another member here, that's why I was looking into it at first.
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Old 04-18-2017, 05:59 PM   #527
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So... Interesting point came up on another forum. Someone​ mentioned that it is recommended to run a heavier oil weight for forced induction and it can help with lowering temps under the hood.

True? I currently run 5w-30. What are you guys running?
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I would NOT do that. The engine was engineered with tolerances in the bearings and passages with a specific weight in mind. Raising it will make your oil pressure higher, and reduce viscosity on cold start. You will be just fine with the factory recommended weights.


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Nice! Can't wait to see the final setup!



Ahhhh, that sucks man... If you are looking for an alternative from Merc, Ive seen the KTuned help another member here, that's why I was looking into it at first.
when you say the merc tensioner are you referring to the one that's similar to the comptech?
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Old 04-18-2017, 07:31 PM   #528
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when you say the merc tensioner are you referring to the one that's similar to the comptech?
http://mercracing.net/product-catego...sioner-system/
Merc tensioner.

What Ive seen is others run the KTuned idler pulley in place of the hydro p/s to assist in finding a good belt to prevent slip:
http://k-tuned.3dcartstores.com/K-Tu...-Kit_p_76.html

I have not tested this myself, I'm deleting hydro ps this weekend
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Old 04-18-2017, 11:03 PM   #529
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http://mercracing.net/product-catego...sioner-system/
Merc tensioner.

What Ive seen is others run the KTuned idler pulley in place of the hydro p/s to assist in finding a good belt to prevent slip:
http://k-tuned.3dcartstores.com/K-Tu...-Kit_p_76.html

I have not tested this myself, I'm deleting hydro ps this weekend

ahh. from my understanding the comptech auto tensioner is the way to go. it gives you a range of adjust-ability and belt wrap. the merc is a similar design so it should be equally good at managing the belt.

spendy though
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Old 04-19-2017, 05:37 PM   #530
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Starting to think I should refresh my 15 yr old suspension in the near future. I'm currently on Tein S-Techs with OEM struts. I don't mind the ride and trying to be budget friendly. Anyone don't it recently? Also thinking about the energy suspension bushing kit. I read this is a PITA,so I'll take it to a shop lol... I don't have torches, press, or anyother hardcore tools
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Old 04-19-2017, 07:07 PM   #531
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Starting to think I should refresh my 15 yr old suspension in the near future. I'm currently on Tein S-Techs with OEM struts. I don't mind the ride and trying to be budget friendly. Anyone don't it recently? Also thinking about the energy suspension bushing kit. I read this is a PITA,so I'll take it to a shop lol... I don't have torches, press, or anyother hardcore tools
the new tien coilovers are pretty inexpensive. biggest difference is they cant be rebuilt but for the budget minded. not a bad choice.
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Old 04-19-2017, 09:39 PM   #532
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Starting to think I should refresh my 15 yr old suspension in the near future. I'm currently on Tein S-Techs with OEM struts. I don't mind the ride and trying to be budget friendly. Anyone don't it recently? Also thinking about the energy suspension bushing kit. I read this is a PITA,so I'll take it to a shop lol... I don't have torches, press, or anyother hardcore tools
Bushings aren't that bad. It's like anything else, just takes time
I pressed my bushing in with some blocks of wood and another car
Set the control arm on the wood block, jacked up the car and let it down on the arm pressing In the bushing
I have since bought a press
I would think a shop would charge a lot to do the whole car. Alot of hours involved at shop prices
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Old 04-20-2017, 07:28 AM   #533
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Agreed, getting a shop to do all those bushing would not be cheap. Remember this kit does not come with instructions, so I could see the shop scratching their heads a lot. Your better to undertake this on your own.
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Old 04-20-2017, 09:00 AM   #534
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Energy suspension

I had energy suspension bushing for the front control arms and engine.

It was a bit stiff at first and then it soften up a bit. I personally don't like it stiff as I find the car understeer a lot more. Instead I went back to stock bushing and use a bigger anti roll bar like the Hotchkiss sway bar kit.

If you use the engine Energy suspension, the front(closes to radiator) is the one to have. I have not used the other engine mount as I have Innovative Street(red).

Usually the car vibrates when you first put it in and then it settle down after a while.
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Old 04-20-2017, 09:34 AM   #535
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[QUOTE=nats007;54709177]Nice! Can't wait to see the final setup!

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Ahhhh, that sucks man... If you are looking for an alternative from Merc, Ive seen the KTuned help another member here, that's why I was looking into it at first.
Check it out on the gram brah, that's about the only current pics of it.
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Old 04-20-2017, 02:08 PM   #536
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Weird, your post made it look like I said that.
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Old 04-20-2017, 04:37 PM   #537
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anyone have recent engine bay shots of their cars with aftercoolers? looking to see where people have mounted their reservoirs
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Old 04-20-2017, 08:57 PM   #538
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t-bar mounted merc res, i forget what little metal bracket that is, i think its for the stock airbox but it worked for me there.
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Old 04-20-2017, 09:56 PM   #539
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Located near fuse box - using one of the transmission mount bolts to hold it in place.


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Old 04-20-2017, 10:05 PM   #540
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thanks gentlemen. good ideas there
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Old 04-20-2017, 10:24 PM   #541
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I'm looking for some input on my clutch/transmission issue.

Within the past couple weeks, my clutch pedal pressure became softer than normal. Hard to shift into gears while driving. With the engine on, it's almost impossible to shift into gear from a dead stop. Gear shifts fine with engine off.

Today I replaced both CMC and CSC and still did not solve the problem. Clutch pressure still felt softer than usual after numerous times bleeding the system. I'm thinking it's a clutch problem. Any thoughts?

Planning on dropping the transmission this weekend.
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Old 04-21-2017, 12:45 AM   #542
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I'm looking for some input on my clutch/transmission issue.

Within the past couple weeks, my clutch pedal pressure became softer than normal. Hard to shift into gears while driving. With the engine on, it's almost impossible to shift into gear from a dead stop. Gear shifts fine with engine off.

Today I replaced both CMC and CSC and still did not solve the problem. Clutch pressure still felt softer than usual after numerous times bleeding the system. I'm thinking it's a clutch problem. Any thoughts?

Planning on dropping the transmission this weekend.
Assuming that the CMC and CSC have all been bled correctly then it sounds like it is going to be something directly related to the clutch. I've had broken pressure plates present with the symptoms you're describing.
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Old 04-21-2017, 08:53 PM   #543
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I'm looking for some input on my clutch/transmission issue.

Within the past couple weeks, my clutch pedal pressure became softer than normal. Hard to shift into gears while driving. With the engine on, it's almost impossible to shift into gear from a dead stop. Gear shifts fine with engine off.

Today I replaced both CMC and CSC and still did not solve the problem. Clutch pressure still felt softer than usual after numerous times bleeding the system. I'm thinking it's a clutch problem. Any thoughts?

Planning on dropping the transmission this weekend.
Sounds like your clutch is not completely disengaging from the flywheel “dragging”. Because of this your transmission synchros are under load making it harder to slip from one gear to the next. Check first that your clutch pedal travel is adjusted correctly before droping your transmission.
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Old 04-21-2017, 11:51 PM   #544
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Sounds like your clutch is not completely disengaging from the flywheel “dragging”. Because of this your transmission synchros are under load making it harder to slip from one gear to the next. Check first that your clutch pedal travel is adjusted correctly before droping your transmission.
Where is the proper engagement? I feel mine engages at a high point of the clutch pedal, like as soon as you step on the pedal, maybe like an inch or 2 that it engages. Every time someone drives my car, they say it engages at a high point.
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Old 04-22-2017, 10:14 AM   #545
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Where is the proper engagement? I feel mine engages at a high point of the clutch pedal, like as soon as you step on the pedal, maybe like an inch or 2 that it engages. Every time someone drives my car, they say it engages at a high point.
Everyone's taste is different when it comes to the pedal’s position and the clutch’s engagement in reference to the pedal’s distance from the car’s floorboard. That's the beauty of the RSX’s design in the stock pedal adjustment. Example I successfully compete against many cars with my RSX. To do that I have to shift consistent every time. An old racing trick that helps minimize the risk of a mis shift is to have a travel stop for the clutch pedal. My clutch pedal travel is adjusted so that when I smash it against the floorboard I know its disengaged - and its disengaged the correct amount every time. This arrangement is also more comfortable for me because my leg and ankle are in a more natural position when operating the clutch pedal. Overall the RSX setup gives you the flexibility adjust your clutch engagement point to fit your driving style.
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Old 04-22-2017, 01:01 PM   #546
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Everyone's taste is different when it comes to the pedal’s position and the clutch’s engagement in reference to the pedal’s distance from the car’s floorboard. That's the beauty of the RSX’s design in the stock pedal adjustment. Example I successfully compete against many cars with my RSX. To do that I have to shift consistent every time. An old racing trick that helps minimize the risk of a mis shift is to have a travel stop for the clutch pedal. My clutch pedal travel is adjusted so that when I smash it against the floorboard I know its disengaged - and its disengaged the correct amount every time. This arrangement is also more comfortable for me because my leg and ankle are in a more natural position when operating the clutch pedal. Overall the RSX setup gives you the flexibility adjust your clutch engagement point to fit your driving style.
Solid explanation!

For me, when I replaced my CMC and CSC, I had to adjust my clutch pedal as well. It would disengage too low (I.e., I'd have to have the pedal almost to the floor to shift gears). I adjusted mine to disengage at about half way from the initial pedal position to the floor to allow shifting at my desired clutch feel.

It's easy to adjust... Can't remember what I did, but it wasn't bad.
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Old 04-22-2017, 01:05 PM   #547
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t-bar mounted merc res, i forget what little metal bracket that is, i think its for the stock airbox but it worked for me there.

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Located near fuse box - using one of the transmission mount bolts to hold it in place.



Love the bays gents
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Old 04-24-2017, 02:58 PM   #548
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i mounted my after cooler remote fill by the firewall using the sway bar bolts mostly because my tank is pretty big compared to the mere racing one. and also to fill in that void above the transmission. ill eventually clean it up because now i have a bunch of hoses all over my bay now that i added a catch can too.

also, i hate my clutch system. I've had a million headaches. first the original cmc went out. a bolt snapped, i fixed it. lasted a couple months. so i finally replaced it with an em2. this weekend, i noticed it started loosing pressure realized it had a leak somewhere. replaced the cmc and it turns out it was just the o ring from the line to the cmc. I'm in the process of fixing it right now. theres always something breaking there. the blower does not make it easy to bleed the system too. rant over.
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Old 04-24-2017, 03:28 PM   #549
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i mounted my after cooler remote fill by the firewall using the sway bar bolts mostly because my tank is pretty big compared to the mere racing one. and also to fill in that void above the transmission. ill eventually clean it up because now i have a bunch of hoses all over my bay now that i added a catch can too.

also, i hate my clutch system. I've had a million headaches. first the original cmc went out. a bolt snapped, i fixed it. lasted a couple months. so i finally replaced it with an em2. this weekend, i noticed it started loosing pressure realized it had a leak somewhere. replaced the cmc and it turns out it was just the o ring from the line to the cmc. I'm in the process of fixing it right now. theres always something breaking there. the blower does not make it easy to bleed the system too. rant over.
I feel your pain... We've all been there. Sounds like you are making progress, so keep doing work homie.

Just a recommendation, if you have not changed the csc, I'd recommend you do that too. When my cmc failed, I replaced it and the csc went shortly after. I just did an OEM replacement and it's been fine since
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Old 04-24-2017, 09:25 PM   #550
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Originally Posted by torresa009 View Post
i mounted my after cooler remote fill by the firewall using the sway bar bolts mostly because my tank is pretty big compared to the mere racing one. and also to fill in that void above the transmission. ill eventually clean it up because now i have a bunch of hoses all over my bay now that i added a catch can too.

also, i hate my clutch system. I've had a million headaches. first the original cmc went out. a bolt snapped, i fixed it. lasted a couple months. so i finally replaced it with an em2. this weekend, i noticed it started loosing pressure realized it had a leak somewhere. replaced the cmc and it turns out it was just the o ring from the line to the cmc. I'm in the process of fixing it right now. theres always something breaking there. the blower does not make it easy to bleed the system too. rant over.
clutch / hydraulic problems are always a pain in the arse.
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