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Old 11-13-2015, 09:24 AM   #551
Ck_One
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When my header/exhaust is up to temperature I'm getting this weird popping noise under the car around the center dash/console upon releasing the gas or even just cruising slowing down in neutral. I honestly can't tell if it's just bumping the chassis or if there's an issue with the header. Any ideas?
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Old 11-13-2015, 02:49 PM   #552
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ck_One View Post
When my header/exhaust is up to temperature I'm getting this weird popping noise under the car around the center dash/console upon releasing the gas or even just cruising slowing down in neutral. I honestly can't tell if it's just bumping the chassis or if there's an issue with the header. Any ideas?
Have you checked for leaks?
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Old 12-08-2015, 06:35 PM   #553
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I finally got my ITR exhaust manifold and cat along with the 06 RSX-S b-pipe installed on my 03 EP3. I have a few notes:

I bought the ITR exhaust manifold and cat with all the heat shields from hmotorsonline for $330 shipped. My brother used his dealer discount to get me a brand new 06 RSX-S b-pipe for a little over $100.

I had my local shop do the install. They quoted me $130 but it ended up being $180 because two of the bolts had to be drilled out and re-tapped or whatever it's called.

I have the stock 03 EP3 front sway bar and there are no fitment issues.

The car sounds basically stock at all engine speeds. It has a little bit of a deeper tone in spots of the rev range that were deep to begin with. I also noticed that the engine is smoother now. My fiancée also noticed this fact.

The car has better throttle response and pulls a bit harder at the top of the rev range. I can still hear my intake over the exhaust at WOT.

It feels the same if not a bit better than when I had a DC race header and Greddy Evo 2 exhaust while still sounding like stock, which is exactly what I wanted.

Overall I am very happy with both the sound of the exhaust system and the increase in power. Big thanks to everybody in this thread who contributed. My mechanic had never done this install before and he thought it was a really cool idea. The shop I go to specializes in Hondas and Subarus.
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Old 02-12-2017, 07:44 AM   #554
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I recently got and refreshed an ITR header and this thread was worth gold in information and so I would like to contribute my experience with the install. Much of my time was spent on removing heavy rust from the header and cat system. I purchased all new hardware/gaskets for it with the part numbers off the first page. I also went ahead and got new nuts that attach the cat to the b-pipe since mine were heavily rusted and very difficult to remove.

The nut used that attach the cat to the b-pipe is part 90212-SA5-003 and I replaced all three using plenty of anti-seize compound.

My example also had the common issue where on the upper header, the two threaded bolts that attach the upper part of the header to the lower half needed replacement. I grinded off the spot welds with a Dremel rotary tool and then removed them with a very large pipe wrench and help of a friend. The threaded replacement bolts were difficult to find since as stated before Honda doesn't sell them separately; but with enough searching online, I found a Mazda replacement that is the exact same diameter and thread pitch, just 10 mm longer.

It is Crown Bolt M12-1.25 x 50 mm Catalytic Converter Mazda. It can be ordered at a variety of places online, but the only place I found it sold in pairs instead of a set of 4 was home depot online.

After those were tack welded in place, I painted the header inside and out with Eastwood's Internal Header Coating to protect the bare metal from rust. I worked hard removing the rust and I wanted to make sure it stayed away. AND the coating is rated at 1800 degrees F. This is my first time using this paint and I find it works very well. It coats well and looks great. Here is a pic of it before it was installed with the new bolts. Also a pic of the heat shield restored the best I could...

In terms of performance, my car is stock without any ecu tuning, so I really didn't feel much difference other than smoother power delivery. Slightly deeper tone at certain rpms and the general impression that the engine is breathing better. I'm glad that I have no CEL's since originally my secondary was telling me I needed a new cat on my stock system. I know that until I get some form of ecu tuning, the header is not being utilized to it's potential. Overall, exactly what I was looking for since my car is daily driven.
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Old 03-03-2017, 03:24 PM   #555
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I am looking for it anybody know where i can get it or anyone who have it for sale?
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Old 03-03-2017, 03:57 PM   #556
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REVmore View Post
I recently got and refreshed an ITR header and this thread was worth gold in information and so I would like to contribute my experience with the install. Much of my time was spent on removing heavy rust from the header and cat system. I purchased all new hardware/gaskets for it with the part numbers off the first page. I also went ahead and got new nuts that attach the cat to the b-pipe since mine were heavily rusted and very difficult to remove.

The nut used that attach the cat to the b-pipe is part 90212-SA5-003 and I replaced all three using plenty of anti-seize compound.

My example also had the common issue where on the upper header, the two threaded bolts that attach the upper part of the header to the lower half needed replacement. I grinded off the spot welds with a Dremel rotary tool and then removed them with a very large pipe wrench and help of a friend. The threaded replacement bolts were difficult to find since as stated before Honda doesn't sell them separately; but with enough searching online, I found a Mazda replacement that is the exact same diameter and thread pitch, just 10 mm longer.

It is Crown Bolt M12-1.25 x 50 mm Catalytic Converter Mazda. It can be ordered at a variety of places online, but the only place I found it sold in pairs instead of a set of 4 was home depot online.

After those were tack welded in place, I painted the header inside and out with Eastwood's Internal Header Coating to protect the bare metal from rust. I worked hard removing the rust and I wanted to make sure it stayed away. AND the coating is rated at 1800 degrees F. This is my first time using this paint and I find it works very well. It coats well and looks great. Here is a pic of it before it was installed with the new bolts. Also a pic of the heat shield restored the best I could...

In terms of performance, my car is stock without any ecu tuning, so I really didn't feel much difference other than smoother power delivery. Slightly deeper tone at certain rpms and the general impression that the engine is breathing better. I'm glad that I have no CEL's since originally my secondary was telling me I needed a new cat on my stock system. I know that until I get some form of ecu tuning, the header is not being utilized to it's potential. Overall, exactly what I was looking for since my car is daily driven.
REVmore,

You did some great work with the upper section - It looks clean and functional. Nice man! I am looking to go the same path and had a few questions:

1. Did you clean up the Cat section as well? Any recommendation?
2. What front sway bar are you running? Did you have any clearance issues?
3. Where did you source the header? I have found a few outlets but lead times are excessive.

Nice post and I enjoyed seeing your work!

-eric
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Old 03-03-2017, 04:05 PM   #557
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REVmore View Post
I recently got and refreshed an ITR header and this thread was worth gold in information and so I would like to contribute my experience with the install. Much of my time was spent on removing heavy rust from the header and cat system. I purchased all new hardware/gaskets for it with the part numbers off the first page. I also went ahead and got new nuts that attach the cat to the b-pipe since mine were heavily rusted and very difficult to remove.

The nut used that attach the cat to the b-pipe is part 90212-SA5-003 and I replaced all three using plenty of anti-seize compound.

My example also had the common issue where on the upper header, the two threaded bolts that attach the upper part of the header to the lower half needed replacement. I grinded off the spot welds with a Dremel rotary tool and then removed them with a very large pipe wrench and help of a friend. The threaded replacement bolts were difficult to find since as stated before Honda doesn't sell them separately; but with enough searching online, I found a Mazda replacement that is the exact same diameter and thread pitch, just 10 mm longer.

It is Crown Bolt M12-1.25 x 50 mm Catalytic Converter Mazda. It can be ordered at a variety of places online, but the only place I found it sold in pairs instead of a set of 4 was home depot online.

After those were tack welded in place, I painted the header inside and out with Eastwood's Internal Header Coating to protect the bare metal from rust. I worked hard removing the rust and I wanted to make sure it stayed away. AND the coating is rated at 1800 degrees F. This is my first time using this paint and I find it works very well. It coats well and looks great. Here is a pic of it before it was installed with the new bolts. Also a pic of the heat shield restored the best I could...

In terms of performance, my car is stock without any ecu tuning, so I really didn't feel much difference other than smoother power delivery. Slightly deeper tone at certain rpms and the general impression that the engine is breathing better. I'm glad that I have no CEL's since originally my secondary was telling me I needed a new cat on my stock system. I know that until I get some form of ecu tuning, the header is not being utilized to it's potential. Overall, exactly what I was looking for since my car is daily driven.
REVmore,

You did some great work with the upper section - It looks clean and functional. Nice man! I am looking to go the same path and had a few questions:

1. Did you clean up the Cat section as well? Any recommendation?
2. What front sway bar are you running? Did you have any clearance issues?
3. Where did you source the header? I have found a few outlets but lead times are excessive.

Nice post and I enjoyed seeing your work!

-eric
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