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Old 05-21-2017, 04:45 PM   #626
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p/s delete

Here was how I resolved the belt issue for anyone who may be interested. I order the KTuned EP3 adjustable idler pulley. This allowed me to reuse my existing belt and keep the same belt routing recommended by jmercado.








I'll keep you guys posted. I'll be ordering a new 81" belt later this week to replace my current.
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Last edited by nats007; 05-22-2017 at 11:52 AM.. Reason: Updated
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Old 05-21-2017, 04:53 PM   #627
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updated intake

So, I also upgraded my cheap SRI with a 6" filter and vstack.

Before:


After:


I had to modify the intake arm (e.g., cut off ~4") to get the intake with the new filter to fit, hopefully I'll see a little improvement, but I'm not betting on it. Should be back to self tuning this week
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Last edited by nats007; 05-22-2017 at 11:54 AM.. Reason: Updated
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Old 05-21-2017, 07:20 PM   #628
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Nats, Pics aren't working for me.
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Old 05-21-2017, 08:57 PM   #629
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Hmm, seems​ to be a permission issue... I'll try to figure it out. Google photos makes it so complicated
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Old 05-21-2017, 11:33 PM   #630
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Relocated my battery to the trunk today but now I have a whirring sound through the radio. I'm assuming it's a grounding issue. I ran 4g power to the front where it splits at a distribution box to alt and starter. Connected a fresh 4g ground from trans to a bolt in the chassis​. Then I ran a 4g aluminum ground (what I had to use for now) from battery to chassis. All grounds are less than a foot. I'm wondering if when I swap out that aluminum ground for copper in the morning if it'll fix my issue. Other than that car starts and drives fine. BTW nats007 last time I looked at my iat it was about 45* ambient and my temp was about 85-95 might've even cracked a hundred after a few hard pulls.
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Old 05-22-2017, 12:09 AM   #631
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I saw spaz's thread where he ran a ground from battery to engine but I've also seen and know people who run grounds to chassis with no issue. I guess worst case scenario I'll tear my car apart again next weekend and run another ground to block.
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Old 05-22-2017, 06:18 AM   #632
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Hey guys looking for a little input. I sent my blower out to get ported and the rotors ceramic coated. Has anyone had heat reflective ceramic coating applied to the casing? If so does it make a moderate difference? Just trying to decide if I should go that route as well.
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Old 05-22-2017, 07:11 AM   #633
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abpRSX-S View Post
Relocated my battery to the trunk today but now I have a whirring sound through the radio. I'm assuming it's a grounding issue. I ran 4g power to the front where it splits at a distribution box to alt and starter. Connected a fresh 4g ground from trans to a bolt in the chassis​. Then I ran a 4g aluminum ground (what I had to use for now) from battery to chassis. All grounds are less than a foot. I'm wondering if when I swap out that aluminum ground for copper in the morning if it'll fix my issue. Other than that car starts and drives fine. BTW nats007 last time I looked at my iat it was about 45* ambient and my temp was about 85-95 might've even cracked a hundred after a few hard pulls.
Thanks for the update on IATs... Seems about right where I'm at w/ IATs being ~50 degrees warmer than ambient.

Quote:
Originally Posted by abpRSX-S View Post
I saw spaz's thread where he ran a ground from battery to engine but I've also seen and know people who run grounds to chassis with no issue. I guess worst case scenario I'll tear my car apart again next weekend and run another ground to block.
I've seen majority run ground to the chassis, but I think spaz had an electrical issue that led to a small fire. I personally recall seeing folks run 4g power along one side of the car (i.e., driver side) and 4g ground on the other side (i.e., passenger side) for audio systems specifically to eliminate the alternator whine noise.

Quote:
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Hey guys looking for a little input. I sent my blower out to get ported and the rotors ceramic coated. Has anyone had heat reflective ceramic coating applied to the casing? If so does it make a moderate difference? Just trying to decide if I should go that route as well.
I personally have not. Who's doing the work on your blower?
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Old 05-22-2017, 07:28 AM   #634
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Thanks for the update on IATs... Seems about right where I'm at w/ IATs being ~50 degrees warmer than ambient.



I've seen majority run ground to the chassis, but I think spaz had an electrical issue that led to a small fire. I personally recall seeing folks run 4g power along one side of the car (i.e., driver side) and 4g ground on the other side (i.e., passenger side) for audio systems specifically to eliminate the alternator whine noise.



I personally have not. Who's doing the work on your blower?
Ok thanks anyway, Jon Bond Performance
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Old 05-22-2017, 08:35 AM   #635
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Quote:
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Ok thanks anyway, Jon Bond Performance
Interesting! Keep us updated on the rebuild.
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Old 05-22-2017, 11:55 AM   #636
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Pics updated... Hopefully, you guys can see them now
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Old 05-22-2017, 06:32 PM   #637
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Quote:
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Pics updated... Hopefully, you guys can see them now
Yessir!
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Old 05-22-2017, 08:31 PM   #638
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Anyone here running 11 psi un-cooled?

My friend currently have a jrsc with 650cc injectors running 9 psi. He's got the belt and pulley for 11 psi, but not aftercooler. Wondering if we can run 11 lbs without aftercooler and switch to e85.
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Old 05-22-2017, 08:59 PM   #639
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Quote:
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Yessir!



Quote:
Originally Posted by orangeS View Post
Anyone here running 11 psi un-cooled?

My friend currently have a jrsc with 650cc injectors running 9 psi. He's got the belt and pulley for 11 psi, but not aftercooler. Wondering if we can run 11 lbs without aftercooler and switch to e85.
What's the pulley setup and motor? There is a certain RPM where cooling is a must...

This should help:
http://mercracing.net/support-2/blow...-for-the-mp62/
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Old Yesterday, 07:41 AM   #640
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orangeS View Post
Anyone here running 11 psi un-cooled?

My friend currently have a jrsc with 650cc injectors running 9 psi. He's got the belt and pulley for 11 psi, but not aftercooler. Wondering if we can run 11 lbs without aftercooler and switch to e85.

You can, as long as your ignition is set up properly. Used to be common for guys to run 11psi before aftercoolers even existed. Top end will be nearly the same after the ignition is turned down, but midrange will pick up some power.
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Old Yesterday, 06:24 PM   #641
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Day 2 driving the RSX and it's starting to feel good. It felt sluggish yesterday, but I think it was too hot here in FL and I was running AC. Today, it felt much better and much in line with what I remember.

I did some datalogs going into work today and things are looking good. I was tuning while the weather was cooler, so do you have a summer tune and a winter one?
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Old Today, 07:40 AM   #642
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I don't have 2 tunes, but I do adjust the overall fuel trim depending on the ambient temp. In the winter it's at 0% change, and in the summer it goes as high as -7% fuel trim to account for the weather. Cam angles and ignition, as long as the correct ignition compensation is set, don't need a change.
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Old Today, 12:27 PM   #643
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fuel trip

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Originally Posted by 94b20gsr View Post
I don't have 2 tunes, but I do adjust the overall fuel trim depending on the ambient temp. In the winter it's at 0% change, and in the summer it goes as high as -7% fuel trim to account for the weather. Cam angles and ignition, as long as the correct ignition compensation is set, don't need a change.
Mine is similair to yours. I seem to have a -7 on Long term fuel trim depending on winter or summer.
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Old Today, 03:41 PM   #644
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94b20gsr View Post
I don't have 2 tunes, but I do adjust the overall fuel trim depending on the ambient temp. In the winter it's at 0% change, and in the summer it goes as high as -7% fuel trim to account for the weather. Cam angles and ignition, as long as the correct ignition compensation is set, don't need a change.
Awesome! Good to know

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Mine is similair to yours. I seem to have a -7 on Long term fuel trim depending on winter or summer.
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