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how to remove counter weight on transmission?

14K views 80 replies 17 participants last post by  K20A2 
#1 ·
I want to try to remove the counter weight on transmission to fix my first gear pop out. I believe the counter weight is heavy enough that when the engine moves from shifts the counter weight pops my gear out. Anybody with pics of how to remove the counter weight or where it is? Thanks!
 
#2 ·
if it's what i think you're talking about, it's the metal "hammer" above the transmission, where the shifter cables are connected

the weight is not designed to be removed, though. it'll have to be cut off with a dremmel or similar

EDIT: i have heard of a couple people saying they believe this *could* cause popouts though. i've only seen one person who removed it on here and he said it makes the shifter vibrate more, but that he believes it helped with the popout issue
 
#9 · (Edited)
bro, that makes no sense at all. The counterweight is there for the average knucklehead who wants nice smooth easy shifts. Most of us drive aggressive so there isnt a need for extra momentum during shifting. The shift knob vibrates slighty, and if I wasn't there when my buddy cut it off I would never have known it was gone. I have injected mounts with 3m duramix 42/40 so I have vibrations anyway. Im just saying since I did this I havent grinded 2nd or had 3rd pop out. I also run amsoil fluid at the moment and have a exedy stage 1 clutch and 8 lb flywheel. I also have a twm stage 2 full replacement short throw assembly with solid base bushings along with cable bushings. Im getting vibration no matter what with this set up.
 
#13 ·
Thabks for all the replies guys, I'm going to flush to trans fluid out first with Honda green label and then see if I still get 1st gear pop out. I do notice when driving in 1st or 2nd there is alot of movement in the shifter....which gave me the conclusion that the weight is cause it to move my cables. I alread have motor mounts and my cabin feels like an earthquake....so I eliminated the idea that my mounts are bad
 
#20 ·
looks like leovan2007 is off to a great start. k20a2 isnt a god leo, but he is very knowledgable on motorsports, as is alot of members on here. If you can back off getting defensive/offensive on help, you might be able to learn more than you already knew. From an open mind, I see what your saying, and makes since. What everyone else is saying, vibration in shifter transfers to tranny, which is bad. LOL, kinda like this...Sex with an amazingly hot chick with crabs might be good while it last, but its gonna be bad when it hits ya. Not saying your tranny has 'crabs' haha cant believe I made that analogy...but the whatifs are there and its very costly to gamble unless you have means to fix it.
 
#21 ·
On another note, Chris, if there is vibration in shifter after the weight is removed, would that not infer that there was always vibration in transmission, and the weight just absorbs it so as not to be in shfiter? Prob why they go out so easy, wonder if there are means people are trying to lessen vibration within transmission? Reason why I say, is cause shifter cables and shifter is stationary in a since, and transmission rotates giving it more chances to be out of balance and vibrate as oppose shifter cables and shifter.
 
#23 ·
that is my point exactly. I think the weight is there so everyday average joe gets a nice, quiet, vibration free driving experience. For most of us who drive aggressive mostly it's nbd to have SLIGHT vibration. The weight also assists with shifts as it creates momentum. Most drive with authority so there is no need for help. I'm just saying I noticed more direct shifts with no grinding into second at high rpm's and no eagerness to pop out of third. I made many changes so I can't say for certain what caused what. When I cut weight off I had oem clutch, mounts,bushings. I just switched to gm synchromesh at that time. Since I have upgraded clutch,flywheel,mounts, short throw full replacement assembly, and base/cable bushings. I again was just letting everyone know I removed the weight with no APPARENT issues. I may have to make a thread down the road regretting doing it, who knows. As of now its been 6 months with no increase or decrease in issues.
 
#25 ·
Ill look for my junk tranny parts, if I have one, I will give it a try to experiment with. My trannies dont last long anyways, so no biggie. But Im not gonna cut this off without a backup shifter mech. Also, when experimenting with something, only make 1 change to see, not many, if you made many, then it shouldnt count, cause you dont know what exactly did it.
 
#27 ·
I cut the counter weight off. Reason being was it was hitting my intercooler piping. I feel no difference what so ever in shifting. In a comparison from before and after at the track i felt no difference and can still get into gear just the same
 
#33 ·
the synchro wears down, I have seen it time and time again and I can't seem to figure out why. It does it on stock and aftermarket gears so it has to be the design of the transmission or something related to the transmission. For all anyone knows, it could be the counterweight and removing it could fix a lot of issues or it could make them worse over time.

True...cuz it could shift fine but the internals can be jacked up
correct
 
#35 ·
Are we talking about the same thing? I removed the piece of metal on end of shifter cables. I highly doubt that a small piece of metal is reducing any vibration to stop damage. I really think that all it does is add some momentum to assist shifting for the average driver and reduce some vibration in the shifter.
 
#37 ·
I would think that when I injected my motor mounts with duramix 42/40 that any vibration issues would be corrected. That stuff made my motor mount very stiff and shifting more direct as well. watch the skunk2 video on youtube on how to make a solid mount. Their motor was rocking before, after it hardly moved. That would make the transmission line up better during shifting.
 
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