How To - Properly Detail Your Ride

[Ghost323F]

Equipment
Here are some supplies you will need:

1. Rags/towels. You'll need upwards of 8-12 good-sized clean towels to do the the job. One or two will be used to dry the vehicle off, others to remove wax, and still more for the interior windows etc ... Some small towels are handy also. If you can find the old diaper type cloth use them because they make excellent rags for polishing the finish to a bright-shiny glow! They also are great for windows.

2. Brush's. You'll need a few different varieties and sizes. First a 1" soft bristled brush with bristles cut down to 1/2" length. Next a stiff bristled tire brush. A 1" round semi-firm bristled brush. A long handled wheel well brush is a good idea. If you have an old toothbrush you may want that too. For "tough to remove" brake dust, you may want one of those green scrud pads, but be gentle!

3. Big wash bucket - five gallon type is fine.

4. Spray bottles. The 32oz type are most beneficial here. Fill them with glass cleaners, vinyl dressings, etc...

5. Large, soft cotton wash mitts. (never use a dirty wash mitt!)

6. Synthetic chamois. (Such as the "Absorber")

7. Bug sponge and regular sponges. Available in your local super market.

8. Power Washer. Karcher makes a nice 1100psi unit. (not mandatory - but nice if you have one) These are getting very affordable now. Check www.northern-online.com for pricing.

9. Wet/Dry Shop Vac or equivalent. The stronger the better.

10. Rug steam cleaner. This isn't totally necessary, but rug steam cleaners can really provide a deep clean to your auto carpets.

11. Orbital Buffer. I use them only when faced with a vehicle that is so oxidized that my arm would fall off trying to get it all off. Generally speaking I hit the major surface areas and still go around by hand in all the nooks and crannies. Let me say now that I do not recommend anyone try to use a Rotary buffer. These take a special degree of skill and practice which I'm sure most people would rather not learn on their own vehicles. I personally learned on a few old clunkers that really didn't matter - much

[Ghost323F]

Engines can be tough to clean, especially todays cars with all their computer systems and hoses all over. It make's it real tough to get in there with your hands. My hands are constantly cut up from trying to get in closer!

Before your get started, cover any sensitive equipment with heavyduty aluminum foil. If you're using a pressure washer don't spray them directly, you'll might blow them right off or blow a hole in the foil!

For at-home cleaning a pressure washer may help but isn't necessarily needed, a hose will do just fine. If you can't find a heavyduty degreaser, use kerosene mixed 50/50 with water as a degreaser. With the engine warm(not hot!) apply the kerosene mix to stubborn grease deposits before you wet it down - water will dilute the mix and reduce the cleaning strength. Use a pointy brush to get any stubborn deposits off the valve covers, etc... You may want to repeat this step a couple times. Let me add that this kerosene mix can also be used to degrease door jambs, as well as a pre-soak for tar & bug removal. Nothing like high speed bug splatter on the front end of that mustang! If you get some degreaser on the paint, rinse immediately.

NOTE: I recently came across a really good cleaner/degreaser at Home Depot (a large do-it-yourself home supply store) and they had a very good citrus based degreaser called Thistle. I tried it out and it works nice. Environmentally safe as well. Costs about $14 bucks for a gallon. My original intention was to use it a concrete cleaner but found it's degreasing ability to be a big bonus - well worth it IMHO.
Once you're satisfied with the degreasing and have rinsed well, start up the motor and let it run for a while with the hood down. The heat will evaporate a lot of the water. Use your shop vac to blow off any remaining water, have a rag handy to degrease the parts you had covered earlier. Lowering the hood will help speed the evaporation process.

Now it's degreased and ready for rubber dressing. Silicone will work best here. Spray everything really well(except the belts!). You may want to apply some wax to the painted areas. If you don't want a shiny look, you can wipe the silicone down, just let it soak in for a while first. STP protectant liberally applied works well here.

Some detailers actually repaint certain parts of the motor, and then clearcoat everything, but I'm personally not in favor of this. This paint starts to flake off after a short while and anything you do to remove it later won't be enough, short of pulling everything out! The silicone leaves a new-car look. This is just my style though!

Also, some guys like to get out steel wool and brass brushes. This is usually done on motors that are for show, and these guys sometimes pull the motors before every show! It depends just how far you want to go ...

[Ghost323F]

Before you can wax it, you have to wash it!

Use a soft, CLEAN wash mitt and a pH balanced car wash such as Mothers or Meguiars, or your preference. Don't use anything harsh!

Mothers now has a Web page at www.mothers.com Check it out! I highly recommend any of their products! Another site to check out is Car Wash Online.

Never use dish washing detergent or a wash brush on your car! The dishwashing detergent damages the finish, stripping it of vital oils causing it to dry out. The wash brush scratches the paint leaving millions of hairline scratches.

Hand washing is MUCH preferred over an automated car wash. If you happen to have a truly touchless type car wash in your area - become a regular there. Touchless car washes use high-pressure water and special clean agents to clean the vehicle without damaging the surface or stripping wax. They aren't as good as a hand wash (no automatic wash is IMHO), but are are less likely to scratch the paint or violently rip off radio & celluar antennas!

Wet the car down first to knock any of the big mud off. Also remove any bug grime at this time using tar & bug remover with a sponge. You can also presoak the door jambs and hatch/trunk areas now using an all-purpose cleaner such as Simple Green or mix kerosene 50/50 with water in a spray bottle. Scrub if you have to with a bug sponge, but not too hard, rinse areas before you wash the vehicle. Body side mouldings can be scrubbed with a soft brush and all-purpose cleaner such as Thistle.

The rims should be done first, before the body. The rims collect brake dust very easily so you'll need a small brush and a cleaner appropriate for your rims, by this I mean you'll need to know if your rims are clearcoated or not. Remember the brake dust that's deposited is extremely hot and bonds very strongly with the irregular surface of the rims. Don't wet down the rims/tires first, you want to make sure the chemical is strong and not diluted with water. Eagle One has several good products for rim cleaning, just read the labels closely when you make your selection. Don't overlook the under side of the vehicle, and the gas cap lid as well! Simple Green works well for cleaning rubber surfaces.

When washing, start from the top and work your way down. Rinse the vehicle a couple times as you work your way down. Don't forget to wash those door jambs too! Don't forget - always wash/detail your car in the shade and to a cool surface!

When drying the vehicle off, you can use a synthetic chamois to get the bulk of the water, but finish it off with soft cotton towels. You don't have to do a perfect drying job if you're planning to do the interior as well, it'll be dry by the time you're done. you just want to avoid any water beads from damaging the paint surface - especially of you have hard water.

When you're done washing and the car is mostly dry, apply your rubber dressings to the tires and bumpers. Tire Wet is a good product for this - also No Touch. I recommend to do this now because if you wax the car first, then spray the dressing on the tires, all the little airborn droplets will get on the fresh wax, though you can also apply it to a sponge but many dressings are meant to sprayed on directly. You can also spray the plastic parts with silicone now too, like the grill by the wipers for example.

A note about Armor All, I'll leave it up to you to decide, but I recommend you not use Armor All as a protectant. It's not very good, and has been known to actually do damage from time to time. Use other products such as STP, No Touch, or Tire Wet - they're much better and cost the same. Any product with formaldehyde or harsh preservatives is no good for that matter.


*********

Editted by EternalBlue -
Additional Info on Washing and Drying
Courtesy of Waynestowels (Original link found here... http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=186103 )):


Car Washing

I use 2 methods that work great!

1st Method- This "used" to be my favorite method- "The 2 bucket Method"
Using 2 buckets, one for "the suds" and one for "the rinse". Wet the entire vehicle washing away anything that can be removed with water pressure.

Wash one section at a time, using car wash of your choice and a wash mitt, as they are great for cleaning and you use less pressure on the finish, decreasing the chance of adding any marring to the finish. Remember, use ONLY the weight of the mitt on the surface you are cleaning. Again, you do
not have to use pressure, virtually eliminating the possibility of adding the
infamous micro-marring from washing the car using outdated methods.

After washing each section (always working from the top down and keep
the car wet), rinse the mitt in the rinse bucket, as this will keep your washing solution clean and free from debris (remember to keep the vehicle wet as you are washing). When you are finished washing the vehicle, switch to your second (older) wash mitt#2 (you NEVER want to use the same wash mitt for your tires/wheels as you use on your paint, as brake particles and road grime can and will get embedded and can cause swirls to your finish).

2nd Method- This is my favorite method- Using only one bucket with a car wash of your choice, use the same method as above, except when it comes
time to rinse the mitt, use the spray jet to "pressure wash" the mitt clean. It is faster and less bending and stooping.

Another great "trick" is to use a 1-3 gallon bug/weed type pump-up sprayer, add car wash of your choice diluted to the manufacturers recommendations (1/2-1oz/gal.) and spray on as a "pre-soak" before washing.
After soaking for a few minutes, rinse off with a heavy stream of water from your hose using a good sprayer that will give you a fair amount of pressure. You will rinse all the heavy dirt off your finish, the pre-soak will loosen up the road grime and you will have MUCH less debris on the paint to wash off, thus lessening the possibility of adding scratches/marring when hand washing.

For "really" fast cleaning, use a hose end sprayer (like sold in Wal-Mart gardening section, used for weed killing, bug spray, fertilizer, etc..., goes on the end of your hose).
Fill with car wash of your choice, dial in the concentration,
(1/2-1oz per gallon).

Spray car with car wash-

Allow to soak-

Rinse with heavy stream of water to remove all heavy dirt-

Spray again-

Wash as stated above using car wash-
Rinse and dry with a waffle weave drying towel (i.e. Big Blue).


Car Drying

There are 2 methods that work great for drying your car after washing-
This is my favorite method

1st Method- I use an electric leaf blower to remove the majority of water from the surface, from around and in the mirrors, the door jambs, trim,
windows, etc,etc.
It works great and there is absolutely no harm to the car (just be carefull to keep the air on the vehicle and do not point at the ground).

I always stressed out when I thought I was finished drying only to notice water dripping from "hidden" locations on the vehicle (specifically the trim under the side mirrors on the RSX). This eliminates that scenario.

After using the leaf blower and removing most of the water, it is time for the "final dry". I use a large 24"x36" waffle weave microfiber towel.
The correct way to dry is to either "blot or pat" the water with the towel and allow it to soak up the water (you never want to "wipe" with ANY type towel, as this could cause swirls or micro-marring if anything has been trapped between the towel and surface of the car).

One other way that works well is to hold the waffle weave towel by the corners and "dragging" the towel along the surface, using ONLY the weight of the towel.

2nd Method- If an electric leaf blower is not available- After washing, turn off
the water, remove the water sprayer, turn on the water about 1/2 way and use the water to dry the car... This may sound strange at first, however, using a sweeping motion, working from the top down, it will sheet the majority of the water off the car. Follow-up using the waffle weave towel as described above.

[Ghost323F]

The interior is really where you make or break a detailing job. This is what my customers look at all the time. It has to be great looking. Most people don't realize the level of detail I go into when I clean a car. All the nooks & crannies where dirt can build up!

If you're doing a full detail(3-5hrs), wash and dry the car(mostly) first then move to the interior. This way the exterior is fully dried when you finish up the interior and are ready to prep/seal/wax.

To start, you'll need to vacuum the car out. Get anything that's not nailed down out of the car, floor mats etc ...

A good wet/dry vac is necessary for this. While you're vaccuming have a pointy semi-firm brush at hand to get the junk out of the cracks of the console and dash or whatever. A firm bristled brush is good for stirring up the carpet matt so you can get most of the junk out of the carpet. Don't worry about getting absolutely everything at first, you'll be vacuuming again after the shampoo.

Once you've vacuumed out the vehicle, use an all-purpose cleaner to get the stubborn stains off the vinyl etc ... Don't forget the stirring wheel, this is where lot's of gunk builds up! Use a window cleaner sprayed on a rag to get the headliner clean. There are several good all-purpose cleaners on the market, such as Simple Green in it's strongest form. For caked on grease stains get a fabric stain remover from a grocery store. Kerosene mixed 50/50 with water is good too, but it might bleed the color from fabrics. Use it carefully and not on leather! . Don't forget the trunk/hatchback areas as well!

[Ghost323F]

Once the car has been vacuumed, you're ready to shampoo. Carpet stores sell carpet shampoo(go figure) that work well in cars. Also, a stiff tire brush is needed here as well. Mix in the shampoo with water, you'll want a lot of nice foam. The foam is what you'll use. Using the foam, start with the carpets on the drivers side, then the seats. This keeps the water to a minimum. Move around the whole car until you're done. If the carpet isn't too dirty you don't have to scrub every square inch, just get the dirty areas. As for the floor mats, wet them down real good(this an excellent opportunity for the power washer) and spray the all purpose cleaner on them. Scrub them real good, then rinse very well. Hang them vertically and they'll dry off pretty quick. Also, grocery stores sell fabric dyes that can be mixed with water in a spray bottle. For carpets that are sun faded, dyes can bring back some life. Companies like Simoniz make dry-foam automotive shampoos that work pretty well. Apply them LIBERALLY and let stand for about a minute before scrubbing. You may need more than one can to do the whole car and seats. Before shampooing use a mild all-purpose cleaner to get isolated stains out.

With the shampooing complete, you have two options. One, you can vacuum up the shampoo residue which will pull up the dirt, or you can use a carpet steam cleaner(you can rent these or even buy one for a fair price at sears or where ever). Steam cleaners really pull up the gunk that's been imbedded in the fabric matt, but they'll leave the carpet slightly damp for a short while. Most of the time I only use them on carpets that are sooo dirty. I could do it three or four times and still be sucking up dirt (the water turns really black!).

[Ghost323F]

With the carpeting cleaned, it's time for the leather and vinyl. I recommend Liquid Glass' Leather treatment/condtioner - even for vinyl. It has mink oil and lasts quite a while. Just don't get it on you're speedometer cover, it'll stain it. What I do is spray the areas directly and let it soak for a minute or two, then I wipe it. I spray it on a rag for tight or senstive areas. Again, AVOID ARMOR ALL! Sometimes I spray all the vinyl and leather before wiping it down, It depends on the vehicle though. On some cars it's better to just apply it to a cloth first so you don't stain any clear plastic. If you can't locate the Liquid Glass, try to find Lexol and/or Vinylex. I was just at one of those bed 'n bath stores, the type of store your Significant Other takes you out to so you can buy towels only the guests are allowed to use. Anyway, in the cleaning supply section they had Lexol, Vinylex, and leather/vinyl cleaner. If you happen to live in an area that has many horse farms like mine they is bound to a be a supply shop like Agway somewhere - they sell Lexol in gallon jugs for leather saddles.

[Ghost323F]

I prefer a 3-step approach to detailing. This is almost mandatory for cars that haven't been waxed recently. Cars that have been waxed, or are somewhat new, can use a good one-step product, such as Meguiars cleaner/sealant/wax. If you wax the car often(every 2-3 months) you can just use a good carnauba wax, such as Mothers Pure Carnauba Wax or Zymol, or a quality cleaner wax such as those made by Meguiars.

On the retail market today most waxes aren't very durable or long lasting. If you just use a run-of-mill wax you're not really protecting your vehicles paint finish very well. This is because most of the waxes actually have small amounts of wax and a lot of petroleum- distillates. The petroleum is a by-product from the processing of the carnuba/palm/montan(sp?) waxes. There's no real gain from it except that it will aid in stripping some grime off the finish but that's about it. With very little wax in the product your hard work won't last much more than a month realisticlly. 3M and DuPont did a study on waxes and found that many waxes on the shelves today won't last more than 22 days on the paint finish. 3M by the way makes some excellent wax/compound products. If you can find them, substitute them where appropriate

Watch out for those infomercials!Let's remember it's TV and they are just hardcore salesmen trying to make a buck! Every wax I've seen on TV so far is junk, just a waste of your good money. The latest one shows a wash/wax product that goes on with water. Well guys/gals, if it go's on with water, what do you think it comes off with? Sure it might give some protection for a day or two but nothing like the protection of a good carnauba wax. How about the one with the laser beam! What type of laser beam was that anyway? Some lasers don't react with certain materials ... like paints etc ... Nice try though! Basic rule, don't buy them!

[Ghost323F]

Prepping is necessary to get a clean, smooth surface ready to receive sealer/glaze. This also removes mild oxidation, some that you can't even see with the naked eye, as well as some swirls and very minor scratches. There is a rule of thumb with scratches "if you can feel it with your fingernail, it's permanent short of re-painting". I recommend Dark Magic by The Wax Shop. It's mildly abrasive and clearcoat safe. Apply this just as you would wax. Meguiars also makes a good prep product. I recently tried out No.7 Clearcoat Compound and was very satisfied with it. It's cheap and does a good job removing small scratches and swirls. Look for the grey can with a green label. The Meguiars product line has excellent prep products as well.

A note about oxidation. Essentially you can think of oxidation as dead paint. The sun and other natural elements have reacted with the surface of the paint causing a chemical chain-reaction called oxidation. This is the most common flaw on paint, but happily it's almost always curable, some restrictions apply. Basically my 3 step approach will remove mild oxidation, but many people are faced with a more serious problem. Not to worry. Clearcoat oxidation can be removed with a clearcoat-safe compound, such as those made by Meguiars or 3M. For standard finishes you can step up to some more serious compounds such as polishing compound, which is mild but still too harsh for clearcoat, or just regular red compound which can do damage in the wrong hands. If you feel this oxidation is too much for you to tackle, I strongly advise you to take it to a professional to be safe. 3M and Number 7 make some good compounds. Whenever you compound you MUST seal the paint after. Wax alone is not good enough. You commonly see most oxidation on the tops of vehicles since that's where the sun hits direct. Other flaws in the paint can cause similar problems such as oxidation which may not be curable. Also, sometimes oxidation can be so severe, so deep, you cannot remove it without going down to bare metal. If the paint is crazed, many hairline cracks going in all directions, don't bother compounding or waxing because the paint is shot. Places like Maaco can be a cheap fix but you have to use your best judgement. Many people have had mixed results with them, but it depends on how much prep you do cause they don't do much at all - that's a whole other story. A good paint job relies on excellent prep work, and skill with a paint gun of course. You can be good with a paint gun, but bad with prep. Bad prep=bad paint job.

[Ghost323F]

Sealer/glaze is just what sounds - almost. Since the surface is ready and the paint is basically exposed you'll need to seal the pores of the paint. I recommend Meguiars glaze/sealer for this. Apply this just the same as the prep. Use soft towels to remove it after it has hazed over, 5-10 minutes. 3M makes a good glaze also. It's just hard to find! Many times a glaze will contain some silicone/wax as well as clay powders and can be used as a cleaner wax. A sealer will usually contain no wax/silcone, or at least very small amounts.

[Ghost323F]

The paint is sealed and prepped, you're ready for wax. The wax will add depth and shine to the paint, and even more durability. I recommend Mother's Pure Carnuba Wax for this. This has some of the most carnauba wax in it than anything else on the retail market. After applying this, don't let it sit more than 5-8 minutes before removing, it's tough after more than that! Two thin coats of this is much better than one thick coat, and apply it with a side to side motion instead of circular to prevent swirls. I haven't tried the newest Zymol product yet but Todd from DETAILS (another shop owner on the net) tells me it's pretty good too. Todd also recommends a new product called Finish First, a synthetic product. I haven't tried it yet (I've been too busy) but from the literature I've read, it's worth a shot. Again, only apply to a cool surface. A hot surface causes rapid evaporation of the wax and cause it to bond to paint leaving nasty streak marks. Also, pre-dampen your applicator pad before waxing. If you do get some streak marks, go over the surface with a damp cloth and then buff it up.

[Ghost323F]

Most newer cars can get by with a high-quality one step wax, such as Meguiars or Mothers. But cars that haven't been waxed in a while need much more TLC.

After removing it all, go around and remove any excess from the cracks and emblems using the 1" brush and a towel, buff it up with a real soft towel and you're almost done! Cloth diapers are exellent for buffing up a shine!

Avoid detailing in the sun, especially on a hot surface.

You can also wax the side and rear windows if you want, and don't forget those door jamb/hatch lid areas!

Here's another thing you can do. Apply RainX to the windshield. I always finish every vehicle with this. When applying this, pour it onto a paper towel and then buff it in, up and down, side to side. Repeat until thoroughly coated. Let it dry to a haze then remove it with a very soft towel. If the window happened to be extra dry you may have to apply it twice because it soaked in. This step may leave the windows slightly hazy, but very minor. Feedback I've gotten from my customers has been very positive.

Here's another tip: break the car down into 6-8 equal sections. Apply the prep/sealer/wax to one section at a time before moving on to the next. This let's you concentrate your efforts on small areas at a time. Also, make certain you're doing all this in the shade to a cool surface, the same goes for washing.

Pick up some chrome polish if you need it. Most chrome polish is essentially the same. Use in combination with steel wool when necessary.

A "california duster" is EXCELLENT for getting the dust that some products leave behind, not to mention very minor dust settlement. Don't use it instead of washing your car - you'll only ruin the duster and scratch the paint.

Rag tops need extra special care. If you have stains on it and it's white, soft scrub w/ bleach should get them out. For darker colored tops, a good degreaser such as Simple Green is good. Follow up with your vinyl protectant. Use a firm bristled brush to agitate the stain.

A word about electric buffers, rotary and orbital: An orbital buffer is safest for the inexperienced user and can achieve the same results as a rotary. An orbital is heavier than a rotary though. The rotary buffer is much faster than orbitals but in the wrong hands can easily damage paint. I mostly do all my waxing my hand, and heavy oxidation removal with a buffer. Rotarys should be used only by experienced users and not by your average at-home detailer. Severe paint damage can occur!!!!

One last note. There is another detailing book available from your local bookstore. It's called "Auto Detailing: The Professional Way". I recommend it, it's published by Chilton.

[Vivd05RSX]

WOW great post!!! Thanks for the tips. I will sure use them the next time i wash my car.

[krystar]

EB, sticky this chit

[EternalBlue]

I will once I get a chance to read it over and make sure it's good sh*t. If I forget, someone bump it for me and I'll just delete the nonsense posts.

[crazy]

At least this time you acknowledge you haven't read it. Saves me some time in not having to point it out to you

jks

[Atypical Driver]

thank you very much!

[TripleSec]

idk if i agree w/ all that... But to each his own.

[Ghost323F]

Originally Posted by Vivd05RSX

WOW great post!!! Thanks for the tips. I will sure use them the next time i wash my car.

Your welcome!!! It helped me take Best Mazda @ HIN in Charlotte. Hopefully when Im done with the RSX it can do just as well.

[EternalBlue]

Originally Posted by crazy

At least this time you acknowledge you haven't read it. Saves me some time in not having to point it out to you

jks

Haha. You so funny.

[Kingdom Racing]

great info

[SpOoN cIvIc TuNeR]

berore u do this.. go and speed w/ ur car cuz after u detailed it u wont wanna drive.. trust me i didnt want to.. i just stared at my work for like 4hrs

[chon_chon]

Originally Posted by SpOoN cIvIc TuNeR

berore u do this.. go and speed w/ ur car cuz after u detailed it u wont wanna drive.. trust me i didnt want to.. i just stared at my work for like 4hrs

haha i know what you mean...i do it every week ill haul ass when im drivin around then ill wash my car and wont wanna drive and if i do i go really slow

[chiballer]

I used to work as a professional car detailer in San Diego and learned many tricks here and there. We used products such as Meguiars or Mothers, and they got the job done. Over the years I’ve experimented with many different products but then I came across this one product… it blew my mind.. it was so simple to use, and so much faster than traditional detailing or washing. It reduced the amount of time and steps without reducing the shine or protection on the paint. And the best thing about it.. no buffer.. no water!! This meant that I could finally start my mobile detailing business without having to lug a water pump around. The product washes, protects, and seals all in one step. Leaves your car with a showroom shine, no drying involved.. you gotta see it to believe it.. a buffer can burn right through your clear coat and water is hard meaning that it is bad for your paint as well. This new product is unbelievable. Man i love this stuff! haha I’ll load some pics when I get the chance.. I’m telling you this shit is amazing. It’s called Dri Wash n Guard. I don’t think they sell it in stores cuz I can only get it through my shop. But if you’re interested let me know.. I want everyone to know how easy it is to detail your car with this product… I know how time consuming it is to detail your car, but these guys have cut the steps and time in half without sacrificing quality.. shit, if you live in san diego, come on over and I’ll show you guys myself….

[Subtlety]

First I would like to say very nice post and it was exactly what i needed because i juct got an 03' RSX Type-S and want to keep it as clean and protected as possibel. I have a few questions though.

1) I have the 3m leather conditionar and have used it on the bolsters of my seat to see if it will tighten it up a littel since there is a liteel wear there. Is there a better thing to do for that?

2) I have heard that a high Carnauba wax will give the pain a dull yellowish look after you use of for a lng time. Is that true even if the car isnt black?

3) I have heard mixed things about the Mr. Clean Auot Dry Car Wash and am thinking about trying it on my sisters car before mine. Do you think its worth it?

4) Once the car is clean and into a cool place ion the shade, first I put on a sealer then the wax or the wax and then the sealer? And also whould you recomend a swirl reducer after you put on the other two compounds?

-Thanks

[RSX-Y22]

I'm also curious about about the Mr. Clean Auto Dry. Does anyone have any experience using this product? If so, does it it work well?