megan racing alignment (Camber / toe) questions

EODDC5 · 11-04-2005, 11:57 PM

okay so ive read about a bunch of people getting really good angles with their setup

i have megan racing coilovers and ingalls rear camber kit, thats realy all that would attribute to the toe and camber settings thats on my car

anyways i was aiming for a -2.5 in the front camber degree and -1.5 in the rear
and trying to get a 1/16" toe in the front and 0 in the rear

the rear was attainable easily...we did that one first and it was at -1.5 and 0 on both sides

then we started on the front and thats where some problems came....we were only able to squeeze out -1.8 total camber from both sides...but to do that we could only get 2 of the camber bolts (that go on the pillowball mount) to go in...so we backed it out to -1.5 which got the bolts in....so that was good ...

but then the lowest amount of toe we could get with that -1.5 camber in the front was 2" (!!!)

so pretty much,..what i wound up doing was bringing the car to a neutral base at 0 camber on both front and rear with 0 toe as well (plus a few hundreths of a degree extra like the rear left toe is 0.01)

anyways....what else can i put on there so the front is more adjustable....im guessing to add a front camber kit (the eccentric lobed bolt) so i can bring the camber out to -2.5 .... but then what can i do for toe adjustment...since with the increase in camber brought the increase in toe angle...id have to have a much longer tie rod i think

any help is appreciated

thanks

[DC530] · 11-05-2005, 02:33 AM

I ran into the same problem you did when I installed mine. I then ordered Ingalls' front camber bolts. I used 1 on one side, and 2 on the other (don't remember which side's which). Yes, 1 camber bolt on one side, 2 camber bolts on the other side. Don't ask me why. It just turned out I couldn't get as much camber on one side for some odd reason. Anyways, I ordered 4 bolts, so I had more than I needed.

Right now, I'm at about -2.5 degrees of front camber with about 1mm toe out.

There isn't much you can do about the toe. I'm pretty much at the very end of the threads. I've done some searching and asking around and it seems you need to get J's (the only 1 that comes to mind) tie rod ends to achieve even more toe adjustments. However, seeing your goal is -2.5, I think you'll get away with the stock ones. (At least I did.)

Rumour has it that EP3 inner tie rods are shorter, giving you more adjustments... I can't confirm that.

DOHCtor · 11-05-2005, 03:19 AM

If you guys have the first version of megan racing coilover you will have this problem. shouldn't be a problem with the revised version.

[DC530] · 11-05-2005, 03:27 AM

Mine is the one with the "indented" upper mounts if you know what I mean.

DOHCtor · 11-05-2005, 03:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by [DC530]

Mine is the one with the "indented" upper mounts if you know what I mean.

yea that one sucks, you should request new camber plates

EODDC5 · 11-05-2005, 02:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DOHCtor

yea that one sucks, you should request new camber plates

how can you tell...mine were dropshipped from megan 2 weeks ago

so it should be the newer ones?

yrap · 11-05-2005, 02:40 PM

yeah i had the same problem the guy at the aligment shop just though my frame was bent. so i can order new camber plates from megan

Matt-Of-MI · 11-05-2005, 03:36 PM

why would you want toe in for the track? Toe out = better turn in

[DC530] · 11-07-2005, 04:34 AM

I think he meant, "1/16" toe, in the front," not "1/16 toe in, in the front."

robbclark1 · 11-07-2005, 07:37 AM

The high mounting steering arm fvcks up the toe bad. The lower you go the worse the toe gets. to get 0 toe, I maxed out at -2.1 camber. You can try inverting your tie rods. You can get custom shortened tie rods to allow more toe, but we are at the mercy of this crappy strut design.

MentalMidget · 11-07-2005, 10:12 AM

I maxed at -1.8.....

robbclark1 · 11-07-2005, 10:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MentalMidget

I maxed at -1.8.....

well you suck then

MentalMidget · 11-07-2005, 12:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by robbclark1

well you suck then

C'mon man.....I don't suck, my suspension sucks!!!

I coulda got more cuz I had the cambolts for the fronts. But I don't like that set up, so I went without them. I'll probably get the J's Racing bits, once I figure out exactly whats needed.

The confusing thing is that when I first got aligned, they could only get -1.3. Then I dropped it a bit more, and they got -1.8. Different shops though. And the guy who got -1.8 is a "guru"....

I'm guessing the first place didn't want to take it so close to the limit maybe.

I'm only looking to get -2 anyway, so I'm right there.

robbclark1 · 11-07-2005, 04:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MentalMidget

C'mon man.....I don't suck, my suspension sucks!!!

I coulda got more cuz I had the cambolts for the fronts. But I don't like that set up, so I went without them. I'll probably get the J's Racing bits, once I figure out exactly whats needed.

The confusing thing is that when I first got aligned, they could only get -1.3. Then I dropped it a bit more, and they got -1.8. Different shops though. And the guy who got -1.8 is a "guru"....

I'm guessing the first place didn't want to take it so close to the limit maybe.

I'm only looking to get -2 anyway, so I'm right there.

this whole suspension sucks

EODDC5 · 11-08-2005, 02:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MentalMidget

C'mon man.....I don't suck, my suspension sucks!!!

I coulda got more cuz I had the cambolts for the fronts. But I don't like that set up, so I went without them. I'll probably get the J's Racing bits, once I figure out exactly whats needed.

The confusing thing is that when I first got aligned, they could only get -1.3. Then I dropped it a bit more, and they got -1.8. Different shops though. And the guy who got -1.8 is a "guru"....

I'm guessing the first place didn't want to take it so close to the limit maybe.

I'm only looking to get -2 anyway, so I'm right there.

exactly me too

i got it at -1.8 but they couldnt bolt it up... they had to set it at -1.3 thats what i was at....but then the rear was -1.5

i just zeroed it all out till i figure out all the suspension stuff

question...how the fuck do you get the drivers side lock ring on the bottom (the height adjusting one) to stay tight...its always coming loose

DOHCtor · 11-08-2005, 02:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EODDC5

exactly me too

i got it at -1.8 but they couldnt bolt it up... they had to set it at -1.3 thats what i was at....but then the rear was -1.5

i just zeroed it all out till i figure out all the suspension stuff

question...how the fuck do you get the drivers side lock ring on the bottom (the height adjusting one) to stay tight...its always coming loose

with a hammer

I got my front at 1.5 and rear at 1.5. my front had enough room to go up to 1.7.

robbclark1 · 11-08-2005, 07:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DOHCtor

with a hammer

You should see my lock rings. They are so fvcked up from me hammering them!!

EODDC5 · 11-08-2005, 11:39 AM

yeah i do but...theres only so much you can hammer before it starts to rip into the strut housing

[DC530] · 11-08-2005, 02:43 PM

I use a wooden hammer to tighten the lower perch. You just got to be real careful when you put the spanner on it so it won't slip. Still, it will still chip / dent a bit.

Zzyzx · 02-24-2006, 04:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MentalMidget

I maxed at -1.8.....

Raise the car up some, it will free up alot of toe adjustment....

(I'm running -2.6 on the nose with a mild drop and 0 toe)

**aftershock141** · 02-24-2006, 06:24 PM

This thread is so old...

MentalMidget · 02-25-2006, 04:47 PM

Yeah Z, wtf???

I ain't raisin nothin!!!

11-04-2005, 11:57 PM	#1
EODDC5 US ARMY EOD Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Mililani, HI Posts: 2,360 iTrader: (0)	megan racing alignment (Camber / toe) questions okay so ive read about a bunch of people getting really good angles with their setup i have megan racing coilovers and ingalls rear camber kit, thats realy all that would attribute to the toe and camber settings thats on my car anyways i was aiming for a -2.5 in the front camber degree and -1.5 in the rear and trying to get a 1/16" toe in the front and 0 in the rear the rear was attainable easily...we did that one first and it was at -1.5 and 0 on both sides then we started on the front and thats where some problems came....we were only able to squeeze out -1.8 total camber from both sides...but to do that we could only get 2 of the camber bolts (that go on the pillowball mount) to go in...so we backed it out to -1.5 which got the bolts in....so that was good ... but then the lowest amount of toe we could get with that -1.5 camber in the front was 2" (!!!) so pretty much,..what i wound up doing was bringing the car to a neutral base at 0 camber on both front and rear with 0 toe as well (plus a few hundreths of a degree extra like the rear left toe is 0.01) anyways....what else can i put on there so the front is more adjustable....im guessing to add a front camber kit (the eccentric lobed bolt) so i can bring the camber out to -2.5 .... but then what can i do for toe adjustment...since with the increase in camber brought the increase in toe angle...id have to have a much longer tie rod i think any help is appreciated thanks __________________ A to B: 2006 Jeep Liberty P&S: Nikon S6 dSLR: Nikon D50 Developing Room: MacBook Pro

11-05-2005, 03:19 AM	#3
DOHCtor I love my rally car Join Date: May 2005 Location: Southern California Posts: 15,997 iTrader: (14)	If you guys have the first version of megan racing coilover you will have this problem. shouldn't be a problem with the revised version. __________________ Vid of me at streets of willow http://youtube.com/watch?v=rWNnDO7EHMw My picture trail Join the anti-drag racing crew 20MPG Crew

11-05-2005, 02:40 PM	#7
yrap Poping Locks Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Conshohocken, pa Posts: 4,565 iTrader: (0)	yeah i had the same problem the guy at the aligment shop just though my frame was bent. so i can order new camber plates from megan __________________ -Joe PhotoTrail...UpDate 8/20/07 CarDomain Yuengling Crew#1 ; WAWA Crew #6 ; TopDownCrew SJ OG CREW FOR LIFE

11-07-2005, 07:37 AM	#10
robbclark1 My sex is on fire! Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Gaithersburg, MD Posts: 6,141 iTrader: (2)	The high mounting steering arm fvcks up the toe bad. The lower you go the worse the toe gets. to get 0 toe, I maxed out at -2.1 camber. You can try inverting your tie rods. You can get custom shortened tie rods to allow more toe, but we are at the mercy of this crappy strut design. __________________ Coilovers - Koni Yellow with GC (400/550): Sways - 25.4mm front, Progress 24mm rear: Strut bars - took the fucking things off!: Bushings - ES front and rear poly: Brakes - ATE Superblue brake/clutch fluid: Camber - SPC camber kit: Race rims - 15x7 Kosei K-1 powdercoated black wrapped in Falken Azenis: Shifter - OBX

11-07-2005, 10:12 AM	#11
MentalMidget BIG POPPA® Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Twinsburg, OH Posts: 4,209 iTrader: (0)	I maxed at -1.8..... __________________ "I think I might of went in the wrong hole" Mike Rowe

11-05-2005, 02:33 AM	#2
[DC530] Master Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Burnaby, BC Posts: 1,569 iTrader: (0)	I ran into the same problem you did when I installed mine. I then ordered Ingalls' front camber bolts. I used 1 on one side, and 2 on the other (don't remember which side's which). Yes, 1 camber bolt on one side, 2 camber bolts on the other side. Don't ask me why. It just turned out I couldn't get as much camber on one side for some odd reason. Anyways, I ordered 4 bolts, so I had more than I needed. Right now, I'm at about -2.5 degrees of front camber with about 1mm toe out. There isn't much you can do about the toe. I'm pretty much at the very end of the threads. I've done some searching and asking around and it seems you need to get J's (the only 1 that comes to mind) tie rod ends to achieve even more toe adjustments. However, seeing your goal is -2.5, I think you'll get away with the stock ones. (At least I did.) Rumour has it that EP3 inner tie rods are shorter, giving you more adjustments... I can't confirm that.

11-05-2005, 03:27 AM	#4
[DC530] Master Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Burnaby, BC Posts: 1,569 iTrader: (0)	Mine is the one with the "indented" upper mounts if you know what I mean.

11-05-2005, 03:36 PM	#8
Matt-Of-MI Zamboni Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Michigan Posts: 2,279 iTrader: (0)	why would you want toe in for the track? Toe out = better turn in

11-07-2005, 04:34 AM	#9
[DC530] Master Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Burnaby, BC Posts: 1,569 iTrader: (0)	I think he meant, "1/16" toe, in the front," not "1/16 toe in, in the front."

11-08-2005, 11:39 AM	#18
EODDC5 US ARMY EOD Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Mililani, HI Posts: 2,360 iTrader: (0)	yeah i do but...theres only so much you can hammer before it starts to rip into the strut housing __________________ A to B: 2006 Jeep Liberty P&S: Nikon S6 dSLR: Nikon D50 Developing Room: MacBook Pro

11-08-2005, 02:43 PM	#19
[DC530] Master Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Burnaby, BC Posts: 1,569 iTrader: (0)	I use a wooden hammer to tighten the lower perch. You just got to be real careful when you put the spanner on it so it won't slip. Still, it will still chip / dent a bit.

02-24-2006, 06:24 PM	#21
aftershock141 305whp 281wtq Join Date: May 2005 Location: Near Peoria, IL Posts: 21,653 iTrader: (12)	This thread is so old... __________________ 08 OB Evo X w/ SSS and Aero Kit 300+ whp Base Crew #1 Special Thanks to: Suja1 Motoring and Dave at Whipfactory Base RSX Turbo F/S: http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=672969

02-25-2006, 04:47 PM	#22
MentalMidget BIG POPPA® Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Twinsburg, OH Posts: 4,209 iTrader: (0)	Yeah Z, wtf??? I ain't raisin nothin!!! __________________ "I think I might of went in the wrong hole" Mike Rowe