DIY - Front Pads Removal & Replacement

**Ju5t Ep3 Pr4ct1c3** · 11-19-2005, 02:23 PM

I realize that these are not the exact same brakes as the rsxs but I believe that they are similar so this should help you guys out. Base guys here ya go!!!

This is a do-it-yourself guide for removing and replacing your front brake pads on an 02 Honda Civic Si. I cannot emphasize how important it is that you know what you are doing. Improperly installing brake rotors or brake componets in general can seriously hurt or KILL YOU. Research before you install.

With that said, this is a DIY. I am not a professional mechanic but I have done this type of work before. This is only a guide this is not an instruction manual from a manufacturer. Other member's input is welcome in order to make this guide as easy and as safe as possible. Do not hold me responsible for an inproper install of your brakes, braking components, etc.

First you need to know the various parts in the brake system before you can get down and dirty.

Front Brakes:

Yellow: Brake Rotor
Blue: Brake Pad (what your are removing and replacing)
Red: Brake Caliper

Pads of choice for me were Hawk HPS brake pads. It would be best to resurface your rotors or at least sand them down with some sand paper so the pads seat properly.

Tools. The right tools make a hard job easy. The wrong tools make a easy job needlessly hard. You need the following to completely remove and reinstall your brake pads:

(FYI the "drive" is the opposite side of the socket. It is what your ratchet looks into. 3/8, and 1/2 Drives will be used)

(1) Jack
(2) Jack Stands
Choks or something to keep the car from rolling
(1) 1/2 Inch Drive Breaker Bar
(1) 1/2 Inch Drive Torque Wrench
(1) 1/2 Inch Drive Ratchet
(1) 1/2-3/8 Inch Drive Adapter (unless you have a 1/2 inch drive socket)
(1) 1/2 Inch Extension (optional)
(1) 19mm Socket 1/2 Inch Drive (1/2 Drive Strongly Recommended)
(1) 12mm Socket 3/8 Inch Drive
(1) 19mm Combo Wrench
(1) Large C Clamp
(1) Orange Bottle of CRC Disc Brake Quiet
(1) Small Bottle/Packet of Brake Grease
(1) Rag (used to clean excess silicon and Disc Brake Quiet)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------

Time to begin. Be cautious and take your time. In order to remove your brake pads you will need to lift your car on jackstands and remove the wheels.

FRONT PADS:

Start by loosening the lugs on the front wheels. Do not remove the lugs just break them loose. Remember to set the parking brake and put the choks or blocks of wood in place to keep the car from moving. Here is a photo:

Next it is time to lift the car to a comfortable height so that you can work on it. The front lifting point is located behind where the large black plastic arrow is pointing (on the subframe). Here is the lifting point for the front section of the car:

**Ju5t Ep3 Pr4ct1c3** · 11-19-2005, 02:26 PM

Remember to use JACK STANDS to hold the car. A jack is only used to lift the car. Not hold it. Never use a jack to hold the car while you work on it. Place the jack stands on the SEAM WELD located underneath along the side of the car. They will stick out farther then the rest of the seam. Here is a picture:

The car should be lifted and supported by jack stands at this point. Now it is time to remove your sickass wheels exposing the brakes. Place the lugs along with the wheels so you do not loose them.

Removal:

Exposed Brakes:

Turn the wheel hard right if you will be working on the the front left side or hard left if you will be working on the front right side.

Next you need to locate the small 12mm bolt that connects the outer portion of the caliper to the inner portion. It is located on the back side and the 12mm bolt should be threaded towards you. Here are some pictures:

Remove the bolt with the 1/2 Inch Drive Ratchet, 1/2-3/8 Inch Drive Adapter, and the 12mm 3/8 Inch Drive socket. IMPORTANT you need to hold the small oval like piece of metal (for lack of better words) with your 19mm combo wrench or the bolt will just turn inside the caliper. Here is a really good pic. As you can see the ratchet is on the bolt and the combo wrench is right next to the little oval like piece of metal. Make sure that your combo wrench is completely on the piece of metal.

With the bolt completely removed you should be able to swivel a portion of the caliper up towards you. Here is a picture:

Notice that the pads are still in place and the piston is protruding outwards because over time the pads have worn down. I have color coded the pictures to help you identify the parts. Red = Brake Pads Yellow = Brake Piston.

**Ju5t Ep3 Pr4ct1c3** · 11-19-2005, 02:27 PM

Remove the pads by simply pulling them out. Inspect the actual pad material and how the pads wore down. Improperly seated/installed pads will wear on one side more than the other. Also inspect the piston and the rubber dust seals. If there is any leak at all you need to either rebuild the caliper (its a slow bitchy process :mcry

or buy a new caliper. Next it is time to push the piston back into the caliper. In order to push the piston into the caliper you need an old brake pad and your large C clamp.

Place the pad EVENLY on top of the piston and use the C clamp to SLOWLY compress the piston into the caliper by attaching one end of the clamp to the pad and the other to the back of the caliper. Dont push the piston in too far. Here is a picture that will help:

Ok. You have successfully removed your old brake pads. It is now time to prep and install the new pads. Start by using your Brake Grease to liberally apply grease to where the new pads will slide into the caliper. They are small steel brackets called pad retainers. After applying your Brake Grease locate your new pads. Use your CRC Disc Brake Quiet to apply the orange lubricant to the back of the disc brake pad shims. Shims = Back of pad. Be very cautious not to get any Brake Grease or Disc Brake Quiet on the rotor or the pads. Here are some pictures for guidance:

Once you have the back of the brake pads lubricated place both the inboard and outboard pads into place. Please do not mistake one pad for the other or put them in backwards. You have the other side brake assembly for reference to look at. With both pads in the caliper push them as close to the rotor as possible and rotate the outer portion of the rotor that you swiveled out back down. Next tighten the small 12mm bolt that you removed to 25 Foot Pounds with the 1/2 Drive Torque Wrench, 1/2-3/8 Inch Drive Adapter, and 12mm Socket.

Torque Specs:
Lug Nuts = 80 Foot Pounds
Lower Caliper Swivel Bolt = 25 Foot Pounds

Aight you are now done. Do the same thing on the other side. I strongly recommend that you burnish/brake-in the new pads according to what you manufacturer recommends. Also you will have to pump the brake 3-5 times to get a firm pedal so do not drive off right away. Pull the ebrake and sit there pumping the pedal till the pads make contact with the rotors. Be very cautious driving because until the pads are fully broken in you will have almost no brakes!!! Also the pads/rotors are cold during the first drive so please be careful!!!

This is a comprehensive DIY for installing Front Brake Pads made by me: Ju5t Ep3 Pr4ct1c3. I have no life :mgrin: . Big thanx to Jake for the help during the install.

Enjoy the Diy

Need more brake shit: Here you go you bastards

DIY: R & R Rear Pads
DIY: R & R Rear Brake Rotors
DIY: R & R Front Brake Rotors

Pestlnce · 12-12-2005, 07:21 PM

holy red goop!

bl4h · 12-14-2005, 11:09 AM

Great write up and good clear pics too!

krekquel · 12-14-2005, 11:17 AM

very well documented process. and yes... it is essentially identical for the RSX.

sinitry23 · 12-14-2005, 04:06 PM

Great DIY guide. Are you planning on making more DIY guides?

nrsxt · 12-15-2005, 02:31 AM

blingtegra · 02-12-2006, 12:06 AM

could you please repost the images?

thanks

Scottie · 02-19-2006, 03:06 PM

Where are the photos!!!!!! aaaahhh

PeterGibbons316 · 09-27-2006, 10:17 PM

Bump for a good DIY.

I just finished replacing my pads for the first time ever. Couldn't have done it without this guide.

Thanks!

SuperAardvark · 12-02-2006, 05:10 PM

Great guide!!!

Jarobata · 06-09-2008, 05:43 PM

How are those of us who need to replace are pads and rotors supposed to do it now that this guys pictures are gone

. I've never not had a guide from this forum before. I might actually have to pay someone to work on my car

smokinggun · 06-09-2008, 05:54 PM

yeah pics please!

**a2_dc5** · 06-09-2008, 05:56 PM

yea lets get some pics up plz

D16_2_K20 · 06-16-2008, 12:43 AM

thanks man this is a money saver!

acurastype · 06-16-2008, 04:41 AM

can you please repost the pics

Jarobata · 06-17-2008, 02:49 AM

Pictures Please

Jarobata · 06-26-2008, 10:39 AM

Bump for pics

mrmatt · 11-15-2008, 10:55 AM

pictures missing

Matrix86 · 11-15-2008, 12:17 PM

I know this is super old but I could really use some pics!!

Matrix86 · 05-31-2009, 12:16 AM

I can't find a better diy... oh well....

11-19-2005, 02:23 PM	#1
Ju5t Ep3 Pr4ct1c3 Mountain Run? Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Fresno, Ca Posts: 1,225 iTrader: (4)	DIY - Front Pads Removal & Replacement I realize that these are not the exact same brakes as the rsxs but I believe that they are similar so this should help you guys out. Base guys here ya go!!! This is a do-it-yourself guide for removing and replacing your front brake pads on an 02 Honda Civic Si. I cannot emphasize how important it is that you know what you are doing. Improperly installing brake rotors or brake componets in general can seriously hurt or KILL YOU. Research before you install. With that said, this is a DIY. I am not a professional mechanic but I have done this type of work before. This is only a guide this is not an instruction manual from a manufacturer. Other member's input is welcome in order to make this guide as easy and as safe as possible. Do not hold me responsible for an inproper install of your brakes, braking components, etc. First you need to know the various parts in the brake system before you can get down and dirty. Front Brakes: Yellow: Brake Rotor Blue: Brake Pad (what your are removing and replacing) Red: Brake Caliper Pads of choice for me were Hawk HPS brake pads. It would be best to resurface your rotors or at least sand them down with some sand paper so the pads seat properly. Tools. The right tools make a hard job easy. The wrong tools make a easy job needlessly hard. You need the following to completely remove and reinstall your brake pads: (FYI the "drive" is the opposite side of the socket. It is what your ratchet looks into. 3/8, and 1/2 Drives will be used) (1) Jack (2) Jack Stands Choks or something to keep the car from rolling (1) 1/2 Inch Drive Breaker Bar (1) 1/2 Inch Drive Torque Wrench (1) 1/2 Inch Drive Ratchet (1) 1/2-3/8 Inch Drive Adapter (unless you have a 1/2 inch drive socket) (1) 1/2 Inch Extension (optional) (1) 19mm Socket 1/2 Inch Drive (1/2 Drive Strongly Recommended) (1) 12mm Socket 3/8 Inch Drive (1) 19mm Combo Wrench (1) Large C Clamp (1) Orange Bottle of CRC Disc Brake Quiet (1) Small Bottle/Packet of Brake Grease (1) Rag (used to clean excess silicon and Disc Brake Quiet) -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Time to begin. Be cautious and take your time. In order to remove your brake pads you will need to lift your car on jackstands and remove the wheels. FRONT PADS: Start by loosening the lugs on the front wheels. Do not remove the lugs just break them loose. Remember to set the parking brake and put the choks or blocks of wood in place to keep the car from moving. Here is a photo: Next it is time to lift the car to a comfortable height so that you can work on it. The front lifting point is located behind where the large black plastic arrow is pointing (on the subframe). Here is the lifting point for the front section of the car: __________________ Last edited by Ju5t Ep3 Pr4ct1c3; 11-19-2005 at 02:25 PM.

11-19-2005, 02:26 PM	#2
Ju5t Ep3 Pr4ct1c3 Mountain Run? Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Fresno, Ca Posts: 1,225 iTrader: (4)	Remember to use JACK STANDS to hold the car. A jack is only used to lift the car. Not hold it. Never use a jack to hold the car while you work on it. Place the jack stands on the SEAM WELD located underneath along the side of the car. They will stick out farther then the rest of the seam. Here is a picture: The car should be lifted and supported by jack stands at this point. Now it is time to remove your sickass wheels exposing the brakes. Place the lugs along with the wheels so you do not loose them. Removal: Exposed Brakes: Turn the wheel hard right if you will be working on the the front left side or hard left if you will be working on the front right side. Next you need to locate the small 12mm bolt that connects the outer portion of the caliper to the inner portion. It is located on the back side and the 12mm bolt should be threaded towards you. Here are some pictures: Remove the bolt with the 1/2 Inch Drive Ratchet, 1/2-3/8 Inch Drive Adapter, and the 12mm 3/8 Inch Drive socket. IMPORTANT you need to hold the small oval like piece of metal (for lack of better words) with your 19mm combo wrench or the bolt will just turn inside the caliper. Here is a really good pic. As you can see the ratchet is on the bolt and the combo wrench is right next to the little oval like piece of metal. Make sure that your combo wrench is completely on the piece of metal. With the bolt completely removed you should be able to swivel a portion of the caliper up towards you. Here is a picture: Notice that the pads are still in place and the piston is protruding outwards because over time the pads have worn down. I have color coded the pictures to help you identify the parts. Red = Brake Pads Yellow = Brake Piston. __________________

11-19-2005, 02:27 PM	#3
Ju5t Ep3 Pr4ct1c3 Mountain Run? Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Fresno, Ca Posts: 1,225 iTrader: (4)	Remove the pads by simply pulling them out. Inspect the actual pad material and how the pads wore down. Improperly seated/installed pads will wear on one side more than the other. Also inspect the piston and the rubber dust seals. If there is any leak at all you need to either rebuild the caliper (its a slow bitchy process :mcry or buy a new caliper. Next it is time to push the piston back into the caliper. In order to push the piston into the caliper you need an old brake pad and your large C clamp. Place the pad EVENLY on top of the piston and use the C clamp to SLOWLY compress the piston into the caliper by attaching one end of the clamp to the pad and the other to the back of the caliper. Dont push the piston in too far. Here is a picture that will help: Ok. You have successfully removed your old brake pads. It is now time to prep and install the new pads. Start by using your Brake Grease to liberally apply grease to where the new pads will slide into the caliper. They are small steel brackets called pad retainers. After applying your Brake Grease locate your new pads. Use your CRC Disc Brake Quiet to apply the orange lubricant to the back of the disc brake pad shims. Shims = Back of pad. Be very cautious not to get any Brake Grease or Disc Brake Quiet on the rotor or the pads. Here are some pictures for guidance: Once you have the back of the brake pads lubricated place both the inboard and outboard pads into place. Please do not mistake one pad for the other or put them in backwards. You have the other side brake assembly for reference to look at. With both pads in the caliper push them as close to the rotor as possible and rotate the outer portion of the rotor that you swiveled out back down. Next tighten the small 12mm bolt that you removed to 25 Foot Pounds with the 1/2 Drive Torque Wrench, 1/2-3/8 Inch Drive Adapter, and 12mm Socket. Torque Specs: Lug Nuts = 80 Foot Pounds Lower Caliper Swivel Bolt = 25 Foot Pounds Aight you are now done. Do the same thing on the other side. I strongly recommend that you burnish/brake-in the new pads according to what you manufacturer recommends. Also you will have to pump the brake 3-5 times to get a firm pedal so do not drive off right away. Pull the ebrake and sit there pumping the pedal till the pads make contact with the rotors. Be very cautious driving because until the pads are fully broken in you will have almost no brakes!!! Also the pads/rotors are cold during the first drive so please be careful!!! This is a comprehensive DIY for installing Front Brake Pads made by me: Ju5t Ep3 Pr4ct1c3. I have no life :mgrin: . Big thanx to Jake for the help during the install. Enjoy the Diy Need more brake shit: Here you go you bastards DIY: R & R Rear Pads DIY: R & R Rear Brake Rotors DIY: R & R Front Brake Rotors __________________ Last edited by Ju5t Ep3 Pr4ct1c3; 11-19-2005 at 02:31 PM.

12-14-2005, 11:17 AM	#6
krekquel you touch my tra-la-la Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 7,149 iTrader: (2)	very well documented process. and yes... it is essentially identical for the RSX. __________________ http://nsxftw.blogspot.com

12-15-2005, 02:31 AM	#8
nrsxt Master Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Posts: 1,482 iTrader: (3)	__________________ "Passion is priceless" - Tatsuru Ichishima of Spoon Sports Co Ltd

12-12-2005, 07:21 PM	#4
Pestlnce Master Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Posts: 1,184 iTrader: (0)	holy red goop!

12-14-2005, 11:09 AM	#5
bl4h New Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 17 iTrader: (0)	Great write up and good clear pics too!

12-14-2005, 04:06 PM	#7
sinitry23 2005 Type S Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: New York City Posts: 1,841 iTrader: (4)	Great DIY guide. Are you planning on making more DIY guides?

02-12-2006, 12:06 AM	#9
blingtegra ツ Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Antioch, CA Posts: 7,514 iTrader: (6)	could you please repost the images? thanks __________________ `

02-19-2006, 03:06 PM	#10
Scottie Advisor Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: New Jersey Posts: 2,712 iTrader: (1)	Where are the photos!!!!!! aaaahhh __________________ New 2008 Accord Coupe EX-L V6, White/Ivory

09-27-2006, 10:17 PM	#11
PeterGibbons316 PC Load Letter? Join Date: Aug 2004 Posts: 8,576 iTrader: (0)	Bump for a good DIY. I just finished replacing my pads for the first time ever. Couldn't have done it without this guide. Thanks! __________________ I should have gotten an '04, their headlights are faster... We can't spend our lives waiting to live.

12-02-2006, 05:10 PM	#12
SuperAardvark JAFO Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Northern VA Posts: 85 iTrader: (0)	Great guide!!! __________________ 2003 RSX Type-S Nighthawk Black Pearl OEM Foglights No mods (yet)

06-09-2008, 05:43 PM	#13
Jarobata Master Member Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Connecticut Posts: 1,540 iTrader: (4)	How are those of us who need to replace are pads and rotors supposed to do it now that this guys pictures are gone . I've never not had a guide from this forum before. I might actually have to pay someone to work on my car __________________ 2003 NHB Type S Mods: Comptech Icebox, ITR exhaust manifold, Greddy SP2, Kpro, Rays Engineering Gunmetal G-Games 18's wrapped in Nitto Neogens, Tanabe Sustec Pro S-OC Type II, Ingalls camber kit, EP3R Front Sway, debadge, Alpine CDA-9831, Alpine KCA-420i, 2 12 inch Alpine Type R subs, Elemental Designs Nine.1, CDT CL-61a's powered by Alpine MRV-T420, Dynamat Extreme

06-09-2008, 05:56 PM	#15
a2_dc5 Brevit : the soul of wit Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: California Posts: 9,252 iTrader: (35)	yea lets get some pics up plz __________________ Armenian crsx crew member #2 2 Takata four point racing harness

06-16-2008, 12:43 AM	#16
D16_2_K20 Mugen RR Proper Join Date: May 2008 Location: CRSX Posts: 280 iTrader: (0)	thanks man this is a money saver! __________________

06-16-2008, 04:41 AM	#17
acurastype PuTang Ina NYO!!! Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: bay area Posts: 3,043 iTrader: (13)	can you please repost the pics

06-17-2008, 02:49 AM	#18
Jarobata Master Member Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Connecticut Posts: 1,540 iTrader: (4)	Pictures Please __________________ 2003 NHB Type S Mods: Comptech Icebox, ITR exhaust manifold, Greddy SP2, Kpro, Rays Engineering Gunmetal G-Games 18's wrapped in Nitto Neogens, Tanabe Sustec Pro S-OC Type II, Ingalls camber kit, EP3R Front Sway, debadge, Alpine CDA-9831, Alpine KCA-420i, 2 12 inch Alpine Type R subs, Elemental Designs Nine.1, CDT CL-61a's powered by Alpine MRV-T420, Dynamat Extreme

06-26-2008, 10:39 AM	#19
Jarobata Master Member Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Connecticut Posts: 1,540 iTrader: (4)	Bump for pics __________________ 2003 NHB Type S Mods: Comptech Icebox, ITR exhaust manifold, Greddy SP2, Kpro, Rays Engineering Gunmetal G-Games 18's wrapped in Nitto Neogens, Tanabe Sustec Pro S-OC Type II, Ingalls camber kit, EP3R Front Sway, debadge, Alpine CDA-9831, Alpine KCA-420i, 2 12 inch Alpine Type R subs, Elemental Designs Nine.1, CDT CL-61a's powered by Alpine MRV-T420, Dynamat Extreme

11-15-2008, 10:55 AM	#20
mrmatt BOM baby BOM Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Las Vegas Posts: 117 iTrader: (0)	pictures missing __________________ *RSX* Type S - BOM Injen CAI / tint 15% / JDM Front Badge / AutoVation Pedals / CG-Lock / Mugen Mirror Cover / Fujitsubo Power Getter / My Photos on flickr

11-15-2008, 12:17 PM	#21
Matrix86 WE GOT DEBRIS! Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Home Posts: 6,812 iTrader: (10)	I know this is super old but I could really use some pics!! __________________ 06 VBP type-s ©\| Ingalls TD \| Greddy SP2 \| DCRH \| PureVision Hids \| Ingalls front/rear camber kit \| Fujita F5 CAI \| Comptech SS \| HONDATA \| WedsSports Sa-70 \| Progress Rear Sway \| Buddy Club N+ \| JDM Visors \| Dunlop Direzza Z1 Star Spec \| Stop Tech Stage One

05-31-2009, 12:16 AM	#22
Matrix86 WE GOT DEBRIS! Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Home Posts: 6,812 iTrader: (10)	I can't find a better diy... oh well.... __________________ 06 VBP type-s ©\| Ingalls TD \| Greddy SP2 \| DCRH \| PureVision Hids \| Ingalls front/rear camber kit \| Fujita F5 CAI \| Comptech SS \| HONDATA \| WedsSports Sa-70 \| Progress Rear Sway \| Buddy Club N+ \| JDM Visors \| Dunlop Direzza Z1 Star Spec \| Stop Tech Stage One