DIY: Modified Comptech Icebox

bayareatypes · 11-25-2005, 05:54 PM

Things you need:

Comptech icebox:
http://www.comptechusa.com/store/330130rsx.html

High temp brake duct:
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/Pro...p?Product=3620
I got the 2'' ID 6 foot.

ACE 2'' drill bit: see picture

Devcon silicone glue:
http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/dev/devs-250.htm

Install was pretty easy. The only trouble I had was drilling the hole in the right spot.

Cut your brake duct to size I just eyeballed the length. Next remove the icebox. I'm sure if you have one you know how to do this. You do not need to remove the bottom snorkle just push out the two plastic buttons from the airbox. Then you want to cut a hole in the top bumper mount for the air duct to pick up cool air. On the hood their is some weather stripping which prevents water getting into the engine bay remove a piece where you cut your air duct hole. Then you want to determine where you are going to drill the 2'' hole in your icebox. I drilled mine about 1/2'' to the right from the snorkle hole. I then got my brake duct and put it into the hole and used high temp silicone glue to secure it in place. This stuff is flexible and forms an air tight seal. Start putting your icebox back in and slowly work the brake duct to the front bumper pickup. Good luck if you attempt this DIY. See attachments. What inspired me to do this was the king motorsports acura rsx. See picture for the idea. I noticed some power increase in all rpm ranges and throttle response improved. When driving on the freeway the car now picks up speed alot quicker then before.

etonek · 11-25-2005, 06:16 PM

So is the Comptech snorkel still in place?
It seems like you just cut another hole in the Icebox and created another snorkel.

Another idea, if you interested, might be to run that duct from the tip of the original Icebox snorkel out through the foglight hole.

Congrats on the install. I've always been curious if something like this would work and the only way to know is by user opinion.

Paint · 11-25-2005, 06:17 PM

Pretty nice imaginary +rep

bayareatypes · 11-25-2005, 07:36 PM

The Comptech snorkel is still in place.

**fatcircles** · 11-25-2005, 10:52 PM

thats a good diy mod for the icebox, nice job

rsxdude · 11-27-2005, 02:25 AM

Seems like a great mod! I might just have to do it. Except with a smaller cutout. heheh. Just fuking wit ya man! Great pics. Could you get a closer picture of the grill area?

aziatiklover · 11-27-2005, 02:29 AM

nice DIY man u got rep bomb

**Frenchy** · 11-27-2005, 03:11 PM

that looks like a good idea
I've seen that on the Mugen air box as well, a while ago, in racing applications.

On another note, will that opening in the bumper be useful to a Mugen intake for the DC5?

bayareatypes · 11-27-2005, 04:09 PM

To answer your question Frenchy I think that opening will be useful for the Mugen airbox.

bayareatypes · 12-01-2005, 01:03 AM

Also their are two water drain holes in the back bottom part of the icebox, plug those up with some plastic or rubber plugs to increase induction from the snorkel and brake duct.

Ace Drill bit picture:

KCRSXTypeS · 12-01-2005, 05:34 PM

those water drain holes are there for a reason, do not tamper with the design of the box. by installing the new intake ducting you could be messing with the resonance of the box and that is what causes the gain in HP.

**rsxer63** · 12-02-2005, 02:32 AM

why not just disconnect the Comptech intake pipe and run the flex to the fog light area?

**Frenchy** · 12-02-2005, 05:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rsxer63

why not just disconnect the Comptech intake pipe and run the flex to the fog light area?

running both "snorkles" will allow to bring in more and cooler air

**Razathorn** · 12-02-2005, 05:41 AM

I'm going to reiterate something hondata clued us in on about the k series motor and intakes. The k series likes a long tube style intake directly after the throttle body. On real cold air intake systems, you will see this token long straight pipe directly after the directional bend right after the throttle body. It's not just the temperature of the air with a cold air intake system, it's the length of this section and the intake resonance it produces. This intake resonance is responsible for a good portion of the CAI's gains in a N/A environment. The peak gain in torque is centered around this resonance point. You're not going to be able to reproduce this with the ducting this mod is utilizing -- you need a good straight pipe section of correct diameter and length that produces the resonance point in the right rpm range.

If this mod indeed lowers intake air temperatures, which you should be able to see via the IAT sensor, then it's a great idea. Just don't be under the impression that you've bridged the gap between a real CAI and the icebox. Lowering intake air temps is a step in the right direction however.

Wayne

knightzerox · 12-09-2005, 01:40 PM

I plan on doing this except without using the icebox snorkel and just the ducting. Similar to a mugen box. Of course I'm sure the mugen box may perform better because of the internal box design, but the icebox is also completely smooth I beleive and just has a filter. I think this would be a great way to make a cheap mugen style box. Any opinions?

**Frenchy** · 12-09-2005, 01:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Razathorn

I'm going to reiterate something hondata clued us in on about the k series motor and intakes. The k series likes a long tube style intake directly after the throttle body. On real cold air intake systems, you will see this token long straight pipe directly after the directional bend right after the throttle body. It's not just the temperature of the air with a cold air intake system, it's the length of this section and the intake resonance it produces. This intake resonance is responsible for a good portion of the CAI's gains in a N/A environment. The peak gain in torque is centered around this resonance point. You're not going to be able to reproduce this with the ducting this mod is utilizing -- you need a good straight pipe section of correct diameter and length that produces the resonance point in the right rpm range.

If this mod indeed lowers intake air temperatures, which you should be able to see via the IAT sensor, then it's a great idea. Just don't be under the impression that you've bridged the gap between a real CAI and the icebox. Lowering intake air temps is a step in the right direction however.

Wayne

in this particular case, the resonance of the air will have no effect since the air hasn't been filtered, so it still has to be filtered before entering the IM.

**Razathorn** · 12-09-2005, 01:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Frenchy

in this particular case, the resonance of the air will have no effect since the air hasn't been filtered, so it still has to be filtered before entering the IM.

I think it's the air box, not the filter, that would cause the majority of the problem. Just not really possible to build a 'long tube' resonance effect like this. Still, without a doubt, just *oodles* better than an sri if you can get some cold air in there.

**Frenchy** · 12-09-2005, 02:25 PM

the goal of the air box is to keep air pressurized and available as soon as the throttle body gets opened, or as soon as the driver gets on the go pedal to keep it simpler, that mod will only bring cooler air to the box.
Now, what I understood in the previous post is that it would disrupt the air resonnance; since the air still has to be filtered before entering the IM, the resonance of the air isn't an issue because it'll be messed with when the air will go through the filter anyway.

**Razathorn** · 12-09-2005, 03:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Frenchy

the goal of the air box is to keep air pressurized and available as soon as the throttle body gets opened, or as soon as the driver gets on the go pedal to keep it simpler, that mod will only bring cooler air to the box.
Now, what I understood in the previous post is that it would disrupt the air resonnance; since the air still has to be filtered before entering the IM, the resonance of the air isn't an issue because it'll be messed with when the air will go through the filter anyway.

Keep the air pressurized? What? I think you're thinking about throttle response as in you don't want to create a vacuum in the intake as you swing the throttle plate wide open -- is that what you're saying?

To be clear, I wasn't saying that you are destroying any resonance, I am saying that adding the 'cold air hose' doesn't provide any resonance.

**Frenchy** · 12-09-2005, 03:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Razathorn

Keep the air pressurized? What? I think you're thinking about throttle response as in you don't want to create a vacuum in the intake as you swing the throttle plate wide open -- is that what you're saying?

yup

Quote:

Originally Posted by Razathorn

To be clear, I wasn't saying that you are destroying any resonance, I am saying that adding the 'cold air hose' doesn't provide any resonance.

well, it sounded like it's what you were saying

RSX-S-NY · 09-22-2006, 04:26 PM

Do you have a place(link or otherwise) where one can pick up the flex tubing your using?

**Also you have a PM.

11-25-2005, 05:54 PM	#1
bayareatypes Comptechified Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: 415 Posts: 502 iTrader: (6)	DIY: Modified Comptech Icebox Things you need: Comptech icebox: http://www.comptechusa.com/store/330130rsx.html High temp brake duct: http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/Pro...p?Product=3620 I got the 2'' ID 6 foot. ACE 2'' drill bit: see picture Devcon silicone glue: http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/dev/devs-250.htm Install was pretty easy. The only trouble I had was drilling the hole in the right spot. Cut your brake duct to size I just eyeballed the length. Next remove the icebox. I'm sure if you have one you know how to do this. You do not need to remove the bottom snorkle just push out the two plastic buttons from the airbox. Then you want to cut a hole in the top bumper mount for the air duct to pick up cool air. On the hood their is some weather stripping which prevents water getting into the engine bay remove a piece where you cut your air duct hole. Then you want to determine where you are going to drill the 2'' hole in your icebox. I drilled mine about 1/2'' to the right from the snorkle hole. I then got my brake duct and put it into the hole and used high temp silicone glue to secure it in place. This stuff is flexible and forms an air tight seal. Start putting your icebox back in and slowly work the brake duct to the front bumper pickup. Good luck if you attempt this DIY. See attachments. What inspired me to do this was the king motorsports acura rsx. See picture for the idea. I noticed some power increase in all rpm ranges and throttle response improved. When driving on the freeway the car now picks up speed alot quicker then before. Last edited by bayareatypes; 06-27-2007 at 12:32 AM.

11-25-2005, 06:16 PM	#2
etonek Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: New Hampshire Posts: 636 iTrader: (4)	So is the Comptech snorkel still in place? It seems like you just cut another hole in the Icebox and created another snorkel. Another idea, if you interested, might be to run that duct from the tip of the original Icebox snorkel out through the foglight hole. Congrats on the install. I've always been curious if something like this would work and the only way to know is by user opinion. __________________ Knock Knock

11-25-2005, 10:52 PM	#5
fatcircles :P \\|/ Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Dallas/South Bay Area, CA Posts: 655 iTrader: (23)	thats a good diy mod for the icebox, nice job __________________ http://fivestarracing.blogspot.com http://fatlace.com/hellaflush

12-01-2005, 01:03 AM	#10
bayareatypes Comptechified Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: 415 Posts: 502 iTrader: (6)	Also their are two water drain holes in the back bottom part of the icebox, plug those up with some plastic or rubber plugs to increase induction from the snorkel and brake duct. Ace Drill bit picture: Last edited by bayareatypes; 03-05-2007 at 01:50 AM.

12-02-2005, 02:32 AM	#12
rsxer63 Low Flying Whore Ron Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: somewhere in NorCal Posts: 980,242 iTrader: (31)	why not just disconnect the Comptech intake pipe and run the flex to the fog light area? __________________ ................. Teams: Team Ranthem, SC Crew Member and Infamous Family RIP Brenda J Aguilar 1964-2002

11-25-2005, 06:17 PM	#3
Paint Superbleeder Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Suffern, NY Posts: 290 iTrader: (1)	Pretty nice imaginary +rep

11-25-2005, 07:36 PM	#4
bayareatypes Comptechified Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: 415 Posts: 502 iTrader: (6)	The Comptech snorkel is still in place.

11-27-2005, 02:25 AM	#6
rsxdude Asian dude Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Louisiana Posts: 3,145 iTrader: (4)	Seems like a great mod! I might just have to do it. Except with a smaller cutout. heheh. Just fuking wit ya man! Great pics. Could you get a closer picture of the grill area?

11-27-2005, 02:29 AM	#7
aziatiklover LACOSTE WHORE Join Date: May 2004 Location: Welcome to JamRock Posts: 27,094 iTrader: (17)	nice DIY man u got rep bomb

11-27-2005, 03:11 PM	#8
Frenchy Master Member Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Work Posts: 67,209 iTrader: (0)	that looks like a good idea I've seen that on the Mugen air box as well, a while ago, in racing applications. On another note, will that opening in the bumper be useful to a Mugen intake for the DC5?

11-27-2005, 04:09 PM	#9
bayareatypes Comptechified Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: 415 Posts: 502 iTrader: (6)	To answer your question Frenchy I think that opening will be useful for the Mugen airbox.

12-09-2005, 01:40 PM	#15
knightzerox Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Austin, Tx Posts: 407 iTrader: (0)	I plan on doing this except without using the icebox snorkel and just the ducting. Similar to a mugen box. Of course I'm sure the mugen box may perform better because of the internal box design, but the icebox is also completely smooth I beleive and just has a filter. I think this would be a great way to make a cheap mugen style box. Any opinions? __________________ NBP 05 Type-S Mugen Pedals Alpine F240 powering Polk DB 6500 + Polk DB 650 Alpine F340 Mono amp powering Infinity Reference 1030w Mugen Replica Front and Rear strut bars

12-09-2005, 02:25 PM	#18
Frenchy Master Member Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Work Posts: 67,209 iTrader: (0)	the goal of the air box is to keep air pressurized and available as soon as the throttle body gets opened, or as soon as the driver gets on the go pedal to keep it simpler, that mod will only bring cooler air to the box. Now, what I understood in the previous post is that it would disrupt the air resonnance; since the air still has to be filtered before entering the IM, the resonance of the air isn't an issue because it'll be messed with when the air will go through the filter anyway. __________________

09-22-2006, 04:26 PM	#21
RSX-S-NY Dislikes assholes Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: NY Posts: 344 iTrader: (2)	Do you have a place(link or otherwise) where one can pick up the flex tubing your using? **Also you have a PM.