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Old 01-14-2008, 08:05 PM   #101
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they are jegs pro-flo series braided nitrile hoses. They are the black ones not the steel braid ones, easier for me to work with. Yes it was freaking insane to put the cap back on and pushing the arms down enough to tighten it down. oh well I hope the setup will work since I am not using any stock regulator or the venturi.
Ok, i'm looking into using either the -6 Earls Super Stock hose or Aeroquip Socketless hose to run from the pump to the bulkhead.

so using a -6 bulkhead would require the least amount of modification to the top part of the pump assembly? Then using a -8 to -6 reducer, run a -8 feed to an inline filter then rail.
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Old 01-14-2008, 08:42 PM   #102
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Ok, i'm looking into using either the -6 Earls Super Stock hose or Aeroquip Socketless hose to run from the pump to the bulkhead.

so using a -6 bulkhead would require the least amount of modification to the top part of the pump assembly? Then using a -8 to -6 reducer, run a -8 feed to an inline filter then rail.

I hacked out the top regulator/venturi, this opened up a lot of space. Drilled and tap the -8 AN bulkhead on the center of the cap, make sure you have an O-ring to make sure the pressure will not leak out of the tank. Once the bulkhead is on there, use the -8 AN hose end and connect to it, make sure it is tighten down fully or the fitting will not hold the up to the bulkhead and you will end up popping off the fitting...no more fuel LOL. It is tricky so that is why a lot of ppl just tap to the side of the regulator so that you can fit a open end wrench in there to tighten it up. I used a crow foot to get mine on.
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Old 04-07-2008, 11:44 PM   #103
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where do you run teh new feed line that you have to add.???? i understand that the old original feed line turns into teh new return line but did you run the new feed line under teh car or thru teh inside..?
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Old 04-08-2008, 08:28 AM   #104
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where do you run teh new feed line that you have to add.???? i understand that the old original feed line turns into teh new return line but did you run the new feed line under teh car or thru teh inside..?
You have to run it under the car. This is how i ran my lines...



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Old 04-08-2008, 09:30 AM   #105
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you dont have to drp the tank or anything like that?
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Old 04-08-2008, 09:43 AM   #106
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you dont have to drp the tank or anything like that?
drop the tank... no, but loosen the bolts on the drv side that hold the tank up and use a pry bar to push the tank away so you can snake the fuel lines in between.
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Old 04-18-2008, 04:52 PM   #107
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I can vouch that if you don't make that cut to let the walboro fit in, your car will not crank up and if it does, it will barely come on.. .. It happened to me today... LOL This guy at a shop didn't mod anything and just dropped the walboro in and the o-ring was leaking fuel like crazy, took 5 times to crank the car up and then he test drove it and it hit lean cut everytime he tried to floor it.. Thank god for Hondata or my motor would be toast now... BTW, the mechanic thought my jrsc was a turbo.. GOD, i should of tried to do the install myself...
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Old 04-18-2008, 04:59 PM   #108
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Old 04-18-2008, 06:41 PM   #109
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actually, i went to a local performance shop that just happened to use some kid to install my fuel pump.. Finally some experience asian mechanic fixed it in like 10 min. and it started up and drove like a charm... thank god, it only costed me like $65
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Old 04-18-2008, 07:32 PM   #110
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is it true when u run your fuel tank very low often, that it will burn out your fuel pump? I hear soo many diff. stories about this myth...
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Old 04-18-2008, 08:33 PM   #111
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I've heard people say that running the fuel low will allow the pump to overheat and burn it up. But consider there is 255 lph moving 'through' the pump (where the electric motor actually is), plus - the Acura pump sets in that plastic 'bathtub' that is always full of fuel - you should have plenty of cooling right up until you run out of gas.

One thing to consider is that when the fuel gets low, that last gallon or so is making quite a few trips through the pump (and up to the engine and back if you have a return line) so it's getting the fuel pretty hot. It may not be the best for performance, but as far as keeping the fuel pump cool, it should be fine.
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Old 04-18-2008, 08:35 PM   #112
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how many lph is the factory rsx fuel pump?
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Old 05-18-2008, 09:26 AM   #113
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this guide worked amazing, thanks palmerblock, this took me 45 minutes and I've never done anything with a fuel pump before.
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Old 09-17-2008, 02:35 PM   #114
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any DIY on removing the backseat and getting the fuel pump out because the other links dont work anymore
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Old 09-17-2008, 05:11 PM   #115
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It's really easy there are hinges on the seat that you would have to undo from the seat if you want the backs to be removed (makes it easier). Then the bottom of the seat sort of is locked in place. If you pull up hard enough the bottom will sort of unbuckle itself. Next your gonna have to remove the fuel pump cover. There are 4 bolts. After that all you need to do is unscrew the black ring that seals/holds the fuel pump assembly in the tank. It's easy as pie.
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Old 09-17-2008, 05:15 PM   #116
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Jeff, sounds like you need to get a copy of the helms manual. The rear seat is really easy to pull off.
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Old 01-22-2009, 07:14 PM   #117
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this thread was def helpful during the installation, but my case around the fuel pump didnt close ALL the way but 3 of the 4 clips are close is that going to hurt it or mess it up? and also I didn't need any special zip ties right?
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Old 02-07-2009, 06:05 PM   #118
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Just did mine today. my case didnt close very well and i was a little forceful getting 3 of the clips to snap but it works great.

Thanks for the pictures, they def helped me!
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Old 02-26-2009, 07:09 PM   #119
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Just to clarify, The bulkhead fitting is -6an and adapted to a -8an feed line? Does that contradict the use of a -8an line?
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Old 02-26-2009, 07:31 PM   #120
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i used a -8 90degree bulkhead on mine. it gives me freaking 0 clearance with the connector though.
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Old 02-26-2009, 08:17 PM   #121
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Just to clarify, The bulkhead fitting is -6an and adapted to a -8an feed line? Does that contradict the use of a -8an line?

Not necessarily cause the outlet on the Walbro is basically a -6 size or a little smaller... so running that to a -6 bulkhead and then a -8 line works fine. Thats how i've run mine with no problems.
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Old 02-27-2009, 12:43 PM   #122
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Not necessarily cause the outlet on the Walbro is basically a -6 size or a little smaller... so running that to a -6 bulkhead and then a -8 line works fine. Thats how i've run mine with no problems.

Thanks. Regarding the submersible line frome gates, I see that there are 2 lines at the pump, 1 for the return and 1 for the pump to bulkhead feed, both are required or is 1 a factory piece that I will reuse?

20.00 for a 1ft piece is crazy!
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Old 02-27-2009, 02:24 PM   #123
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Thanks. Regarding the submersible line frome gates, I see that there are 2 lines at the pump, 1 for the return and 1 for the pump to bulkhead feed, both are required or is 1 a factory piece that I will reuse?

20.00 for a 1ft piece is crazy!
i replaced both hoses. PM sent
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Old 02-27-2009, 05:10 PM   #124
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1) If you want to use the stock FPR, add a bulkhead fitting and use the OEM supply line as a return. Go ahead and use the setup like Ironraven shows, BUT Keep the entire OEM fuel return setup and plug the fitting as shown:





At any rate, I would say the key factors here are:

1) keep the venturi fitting for good drivability at low fuel levels - just like stock

2) be sure to plug the old unused supply port - this forces the return fuel through the venturi

3) If you run a -8 AN bulkhead fitting - First, don't because it is a real PITA. -6 is what you want. Second, don't grind on the fuel tank lid to make it fit. You don't want to grind into the small reservoir in the tank lid, this will let fuel spill all over inside the tank and won't properly run the venturi.


What can I use to plug the unused end????
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Old 03-28-2009, 02:23 PM   #125
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Do you have to re-tune when you upgrade your fuel pump?
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