My K24/K20 Boosted Build-up...w/pics.

**kracker** · 10-26-2006, 10:13 AM

As some of you know, my #1 cylinder rod decided to put a two holes in the side of my OEM block last week

. So I decided to do a little write-up of what I'm doing to get my car going again.

After doing some research I found that going with a k24/k20 frank would be what I needed. A reliable way to get ~375-400whp on my daily driver, with some more torque to get around with. I went with a K24A1 motor...as in the entire motor that I got from a slavage yard. I paid $700 and drove home with it the same day.

Just to make thing eaiser, when I say k20 I mean as in K20A2 (RSX-S parts), and k24 is in reference to K24A1 parts (2002 Honda CR-V). I dont know what the hell the k24a2, k24a3, or k24a4 parts will do with a k20 head.

If you have any questions/comments...let me know and I'll try to help

Heres what I found once I dropped the motor...

**03DSM-RSX** · 10-26-2006, 10:15 AM

wow that snapped in half!

**kracker** · 10-26-2006, 10:21 AM

Before I pulled the motor out of my car I disassembled the k24 down to the longblock assembly. I took everything off...head, oil pan, oil pump, timing chain, guides, etc. The only thing on the stand was a block, crank, and 4 pistons & rods.

Then I pulled the motor out the car and put it on the stand. Then I tore that all the way down to the block as well. I was going to use everything possible off the k20 onto the k24.

**kracker** · 10-26-2006, 10:27 AM

There is a lot of talk about which oil pan and oil pump and baffle to use. I put my k20 oil pump onto the k24 block, and used a k20 oil baffle. The k24 is a big (counterweighted) oil pump, and I liked the idea of using the k20 instead. It bolted straight up with no modifications at all! The same is true for the baffle.

Make sure you use the k20 oil pump chain and tensioners. But use the k24 crank "sprocket" (timing and oil chain gear). It is marked just like the k20 is so you'll have no problems there.

hondaluver · 10-26-2006, 10:32 AM

ohhh, nice!

**kracker** · 10-26-2006, 10:35 AM

Now its time to put the head on and set up the timing.

I went with ARP studs, because I feel a lot safer running those on a boosted engine. Use a CR-V headgasket.

You will have to use the k24 timing chain, guides, and I used the tensioner (could probley use either one). It is just like setting time in a k20 motor. Line up the sprocket to TDC, colored link on the sprocket (makes it eaiser/safer to make sure its in time), get the cams in position and set as needed.

blackflame · 10-26-2006, 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kracker

There is a lot of talk about which oil pan and oil pump and baffle to use. I put my k20 oil pump onto the k24 block, and used a k20 oil baffle. The k24 is a big (counterweighted) oil pump, and I liked the idea of using the k20 instead. It bolted straight up with no modifications at all! The same is true for the baffle.

Make sure you use the k20 oil pump chain and tensioners. But use the k24 crank "sprocket" (timing and oil chain gear). It is marked just like the k20 is so you'll have no problems there.

Nice, that piston/rod really look ugly, but if your reusing the old oil pump did you checked it for metal particles inside?

For safety/reliability I would use a new oil pump

**kracker** · 10-26-2006, 10:44 AM

Now comes time to put the stuff onto the block.

You can use either crank pulley...I went with the k20 b/c its a little smaller and will give a slight "under-drive" to all the other belts driven accessories. The k24 pulley is larger than the k20.

If you dont want to have the oil cooler hooked up you will save some time and $$. In order to run it you would have to take the block to a machine shop and have a part of it milled flat and drilled out. If you do want to run it, no big deal...but I dont think its worth it.

If you decide not to use it (what I did) then its not that bad at all. You WILL have to run the k24 water pump. The k20 has an outlet for the oil cooler that I didn't feel safe to attempt to plug in any way. Simply remove the thermostat housing, alternator, and belt tensioner from the k20. Then remove the same from the k24. Use the k24 water pump block to go to the side of the motor. Then bolt up the alternator, tensioner, and thermostat housing. You could use the k24, but I felt safer using the k20 parts.

**kracker** · 10-26-2006, 10:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blackflame

Nice, that piston/rod really look ugly, but if your reusing the old oil pump did you checked it for metal particles inside?

For safety/reliability I would use a new oil pump

Yes, I completely disassembled it and inspected it. Took it to a parts wash and thoroughly cleaned it and made 1000% sure there was nothing inside. I spent about 3 hours on that alone. There was no damage to the gear or gear housing inside the pump.

**kracker** · 10-26-2006, 10:52 AM

You will also have to use the k24 side motor mount...the k20 will not work. Mine didnt come with the top part of it, so I robbed it off the k20. The bottom it the part that has to mate up to the cover/motor.

I also used the k20 oil pan. You will need the bolts from that also, the k24 bolts are too short.

This back pic is it nearly assembled. I need to put the plug in above the oil filter and run my braided line off the oil pressure sensor hole on the back.

**kracker** · 10-26-2006, 10:58 AM

The only other thing is that you'll need to get some spacers. I made mine 19.7mm and it worked perfectly...a stack of washers will also work. Because the block is ~20mm taller, the intake manifold brackets will not reach without a spacer of some kind.

Here is a pic of the 3" downpipe that will be going to the straight 3" exhaust

Oside Jimc · 10-26-2006, 10:59 AM

You DID remove and plug this oil orfice, yes?

**kracker** · 10-26-2006, 11:01 AM

After all that was said and done, I dropped the motor into the car and put the tranny on. Thats where it sits now, till I have some time to work on it.

I figure I have ~25-30 hours total in it, and ~$750...not too bad.

BTW, you'll have to use the k24 dip stick...k20 is too short.

I'll put up my driving impressions once I get it on the road.

blueshark123 · 10-26-2006, 11:02 AM

nice progress. I cant believe the freaking rod broke in half like that. Why didnt you decide to upgrade internals on the k24?

**kracker** · 10-26-2006, 11:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Oside Jimc

You DID remove and plug this oil orfice, yes?

http://forums.clubrsx.com/attachment...1&d=1161874720

Explain??

Quote:

nice progress. I cant believe the freaking rod broke in half like that. Why didnt you decide to upgrade internals on the k24?

I dont plan on pushing it that close to the edge, and its been proven to take some serious punishment.

Oside Jimc · 10-26-2006, 11:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kracker

Explain??

That orfice is for oiling the counter shafts on the K24 oil pump, failure to remove will result in low oil pressure when used with a K20 oil pump. It has to be removed and plugged (and use loctite!!), be careful, it's soft brass and strips out very easy!!.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but I warned you in your other thread:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Oside Jimc

sounds like a great deal, if you use a K20A2 oil pump don't forget to plug the oil orfice in the girdle of the K24A1 girdle.

TODARSX · 10-26-2006, 01:14 PM

that piston looks nice haha daamn..good luck on the build up!

**03DSM-RSX** · 10-26-2006, 05:05 PM

shouldnt be too hard to plug that orfice with motor in the car. just remove pan.

dude, u work fast. i gota give that to ya

btw, i dont even have a brace/bracket supporting the PRB IM cuz i'm a base. the head will hold it up just fine if u decide to go without spacers.

**kracker** · 10-26-2006, 05:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Oside Jimc

That orfice is for oiling the counter shafts on the K24 oil pump, failure to remove will result in low oil pressure when used with a K20 oil pump. It has to be removed and plugged (and use loctite!!), be careful, it's soft brass and strips out very easy!!.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but I warned you in your other thread:

I remember you saying that, but I confused it with another brass plug. It wont be that big of a deal. The subframe isnt on yet, so all I have to do is drop the oil pan and girdle and then plug it up. Maybe 30 minutes work

thanks

BW787 · 10-26-2006, 05:11 PM

you are moving right along. Nice job man! Good luck!

Sieze · 10-26-2006, 06:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kracker

I remember you saying that, but I confused it with another brass plug. It wont be that big of a deal. The subframe isnt on yet, so all I have to do is drop the oil pan and girdle and then plug it up. Maybe 30 minutes work

thanks

Out of interest what would be the best way of plugging it up securely?

Boosttypes · 10-26-2006, 07:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kracker

Explain??

I dont plan on pushing it that close to the edge, and its been proven to take some serious punishment.

use the plug that the k20a2 has in that same hole. it has to go on before the windage tray/oil baffel.if you dont have that use 10mmx1.0 pitch bolt.

**03DSM-RSX** · 10-26-2006, 07:38 PM

^with loctite.

Oside Jimc · 10-27-2006, 01:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kracker

I remember you saying that, but I confused it with another brass plug. It wont be that big of a deal. The subframe isnt on yet, so all I have to do is drop the oil pan and girdle and then plug it up. Maybe 30 minutes work

thanks

No need to drop the girdle, just the pan and tray.

Yankeec23 · 10-29-2006, 02:35 PM

nice work man

10-26-2006, 10:15 AM	#2
03DSM-RSX 713 Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Houston Posts: 13,019 iTrader: (11)	wow that snapped in half! __________________ st00pified and Kpro'd RSX Base Auto w/ IPT Race Trans 260+whp/235+wtq 2010 BMW 335d w/ Sport Package

10-26-2006, 10:21 AM	#3
kracker Still tuning.... Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Anderson, SC Posts: 3,586 iTrader: (8)	Before I pulled the motor out of my car I disassembled the k24 down to the longblock assembly. I took everything off...head, oil pan, oil pump, timing chain, guides, etc. The only thing on the stand was a block, crank, and 4 pistons & rods. Then I pulled the motor out the car and put it on the stand. Then I tore that all the way down to the block as well. I was going to use everything possible off the k20 onto the k24. __________________ 2002 Type-S Some Boosted Big Block Honda Shit PM FOR QUOTES AND PRICING For Sale: K20Z1 Shortblock with all new rod & main bearings...0 miles on rebuild Custom Intercooler Pipes, Custom Battery Relocation Trays, Custom 3" Revhard Downpipes. All Full SS/AL & TIG Welded Last edited by kracker; 02-11-2007 at 12:29 PM.

10-26-2006, 10:27 AM	#4
kracker Still tuning.... Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Anderson, SC Posts: 3,586 iTrader: (8)	There is a lot of talk about which oil pan and oil pump and baffle to use. I put my k20 oil pump onto the k24 block, and used a k20 oil baffle. The k24 is a big (counterweighted) oil pump, and I liked the idea of using the k20 instead. It bolted straight up with no modifications at all! The same is true for the baffle. Make sure you use the k20 oil pump chain and tensioners. But use the k24 crank "sprocket" (timing and oil chain gear). It is marked just like the k20 is so you'll have no problems there. __________________ 2002 Type-S Some Boosted Big Block Honda Shit PM FOR QUOTES AND PRICING For Sale: K20Z1 Shortblock with all new rod & main bearings...0 miles on rebuild Custom Intercooler Pipes, Custom Battery Relocation Trays, Custom 3" Revhard Downpipes. All Full SS/AL & TIG Welded Last edited by kracker; 02-11-2007 at 12:29 PM.

10-26-2006, 10:32 AM	#5
hondaluver Bar'd TWICE Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 2,380 iTrader: (2)	ohhh, nice! __________________ 06 CBR600RR 09 Toyota Pruis Full Loaded(Navi and leather) rolling @48.6mpg 01 EM2 - Built K24--PICS OF THE k24 EM2 NA tune 9:1...240.7 hp and 190.9 tq Stuff for Sale

10-26-2006, 10:35 AM	#6
kracker Still tuning.... Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Anderson, SC Posts: 3,586 iTrader: (8)	Now its time to put the head on and set up the timing. I went with ARP studs, because I feel a lot safer running those on a boosted engine. Use a CR-V headgasket. You will have to use the k24 timing chain, guides, and I used the tensioner (could probley use either one). It is just like setting time in a k20 motor. Line up the sprocket to TDC, colored link on the sprocket (makes it eaiser/safer to make sure its in time), get the cams in position and set as needed. __________________ 2002 Type-S Some Boosted Big Block Honda Shit PM FOR QUOTES AND PRICING For Sale: K20Z1 Shortblock with all new rod & main bearings...0 miles on rebuild Custom Intercooler Pipes, Custom Battery Relocation Trays, Custom 3" Revhard Downpipes. All Full SS/AL & TIG Welded Last edited by kracker; 02-11-2007 at 12:29 PM.

10-26-2006, 10:13 AM	#1
kracker Still tuning.... Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Anderson, SC Posts: 3,586 iTrader: (8)	My K24/K20 Boosted Build-up...w/pics. As some of you know, my #1 cylinder rod decided to put a two holes in the side of my OEM block last week . So I decided to do a little write-up of what I'm doing to get my car going again. After doing some research I found that going with a k24/k20 frank would be what I needed. A reliable way to get ~375-400whp on my daily driver, with some more torque to get around with. I went with a K24A1 motor...as in the entire motor that I got from a slavage yard. I paid $700 and drove home with it the same day. Just to make thing eaiser, when I say k20 I mean as in K20A2 (RSX-S parts), and k24 is in reference to K24A1 parts (2002 Honda CR-V). I dont know what the hell the k24a2, k24a3, or k24a4 parts will do with a k20 head. If you have any questions/comments...let me know and I'll try to help Heres what I found once I dropped the motor... __________________ 2002 Type-S Some Boosted Big Block Honda Shit PM FOR QUOTES AND PRICING For Sale: K20Z1 Shortblock with all new rod & main bearings...0 miles on rebuild Custom Intercooler Pipes, Custom Battery Relocation Trays, Custom 3" Revhard Downpipes. All Full SS/AL & TIG Welded Last edited by kracker; 02-11-2007 at 12:29 PM.

10-26-2006, 10:44 AM	#8
kracker Still tuning.... Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Anderson, SC Posts: 3,586 iTrader: (8)	Now comes time to put the stuff onto the block. You can use either crank pulley...I went with the k20 b/c its a little smaller and will give a slight "under-drive" to all the other belts driven accessories. The k24 pulley is larger than the k20. If you dont want to have the oil cooler hooked up you will save some time and $$. In order to run it you would have to take the block to a machine shop and have a part of it milled flat and drilled out. If you do want to run it, no big deal...but I dont think its worth it. If you decide not to use it (what I did) then its not that bad at all. You WILL have to run the k24 water pump. The k20 has an outlet for the oil cooler that I didn't feel safe to attempt to plug in any way. Simply remove the thermostat housing, alternator, and belt tensioner from the k20. Then remove the same from the k24. Use the k24 water pump block to go to the side of the motor. Then bolt up the alternator, tensioner, and thermostat housing. You could use the k24, but I felt safer using the k20 parts. __________________ 2002 Type-S Some Boosted Big Block Honda Shit PM FOR QUOTES AND PRICING For Sale: K20Z1 Shortblock with all new rod & main bearings...0 miles on rebuild Custom Intercooler Pipes, Custom Battery Relocation Trays, Custom 3" Revhard Downpipes. All Full SS/AL & TIG Welded Last edited by kracker; 02-11-2007 at 12:28 PM.

10-26-2006, 10:52 AM	#10
kracker Still tuning.... Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Anderson, SC Posts: 3,586 iTrader: (8)	You will also have to use the k24 side motor mount...the k20 will not work. Mine didnt come with the top part of it, so I robbed it off the k20. The bottom it the part that has to mate up to the cover/motor. I also used the k20 oil pan. You will need the bolts from that also, the k24 bolts are too short. This back pic is it nearly assembled. I need to put the plug in above the oil filter and run my braided line off the oil pressure sensor hole on the back. __________________ 2002 Type-S Some Boosted Big Block Honda Shit PM FOR QUOTES AND PRICING For Sale: K20Z1 Shortblock with all new rod & main bearings...0 miles on rebuild Custom Intercooler Pipes, Custom Battery Relocation Trays, Custom 3" Revhard Downpipes. All Full SS/AL & TIG Welded Last edited by kracker; 02-11-2007 at 12:28 PM.

10-26-2006, 10:58 AM	#11
kracker Still tuning.... Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Anderson, SC Posts: 3,586 iTrader: (8)	The only other thing is that you'll need to get some spacers. I made mine 19.7mm and it worked perfectly...a stack of washers will also work. Because the block is ~20mm taller, the intake manifold brackets will not reach without a spacer of some kind. Here is a pic of the 3" downpipe that will be going to the straight 3" exhaust __________________ 2002 Type-S Some Boosted Big Block Honda Shit PM FOR QUOTES AND PRICING For Sale: K20Z1 Shortblock with all new rod & main bearings...0 miles on rebuild Custom Intercooler Pipes, Custom Battery Relocation Trays, Custom 3" Revhard Downpipes. All Full SS/AL & TIG Welded Last edited by kracker; 02-11-2007 at 12:29 PM.

10-26-2006, 10:59 AM	#12
Oside Jimc RIP 2/4/2009 Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: SoCal Posts: 4,734 iTrader: (11)	You DID remove and plug this oil orfice, yes? Attached Thumbnails __________________ The liver is evil, it must be punished

10-26-2006, 11:01 AM	#13
kracker Still tuning.... Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Anderson, SC Posts: 3,586 iTrader: (8)	After all that was said and done, I dropped the motor into the car and put the tranny on. Thats where it sits now, till I have some time to work on it. I figure I have ~25-30 hours total in it, and ~$750...not too bad. BTW, you'll have to use the k24 dip stick...k20 is too short. I'll put up my driving impressions once I get it on the road. __________________ 2002 Type-S Some Boosted Big Block Honda Shit PM FOR QUOTES AND PRICING For Sale: K20Z1 Shortblock with all new rod & main bearings...0 miles on rebuild Custom Intercooler Pipes, Custom Battery Relocation Trays, Custom 3" Revhard Downpipes. All Full SS/AL & TIG Welded

10-26-2006, 11:02 AM	#14
blueshark123 10.801@137.72 Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: New Jersey Posts: 229,342 iTrader: (9)	nice progress. I cant believe the freaking rod broke in half like that. Why didnt you decide to upgrade internals on the k24? __________________ www.evans-tuning.com\|www.full-race.com\|www.fast-turbo.com

10-26-2006, 01:14 PM	#17
TODARSX 11.6 @ 123mph Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Miramar, FL Posts: 2,303 iTrader: (10)	that piston looks nice haha daamn..good luck on the build up! __________________ New Car: 2008 Lexus IS250 Jose Rodriguez RIP

10-26-2006, 05:05 PM	#18
03DSM-RSX 713 Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Houston Posts: 13,019 iTrader: (11)	shouldnt be too hard to plug that orfice with motor in the car. just remove pan. dude, u work fast. i gota give that to ya btw, i dont even have a brace/bracket supporting the PRB IM cuz i'm a base. the head will hold it up just fine if u decide to go without spacers. __________________ st00pified and Kpro'd RSX Base Auto w/ IPT Race Trans 260+whp/235+wtq 2010 BMW 335d w/ Sport Package

10-26-2006, 05:11 PM	#20
BW787 Master Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: Cape Coral, FL Posts: 3,113 iTrader: (6)	you are moving right along. Nice job man! Good luck!

10-26-2006, 07:38 PM	#23
03DSM-RSX 713 Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Houston Posts: 13,019 iTrader: (11)	^with loctite. __________________ st00pified and Kpro'd RSX Base Auto w/ IPT Race Trans 260+whp/235+wtq 2010 BMW 335d w/ Sport Package

10-29-2006, 02:35 PM	#25
Yankeec23 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Visalia Posts: 888 iTrader: (1)	nice work man __________________ http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v397/yakec23/PIC6.jpg