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Old 06-08-2009, 04:18 AM   #1
Chrisb27
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DIY - Valve Clearance Adjust (K20A2/A3)

Didn't find that anyone else had done a DIY for this yet so I figured I'd join up and add this. I did the adjust a while ago and I thought i had more pics but I'll work with what I have - I borrowed some screen shots from the FSM for clarity (My first DIY so be kind).



Maintenance Time!



Parts / Tools
  1. Valve Cover Gasket
  2. Gasket Material
  3. 10MM Socket
  4. 12MM Socket
  5. 3/4" Socket
  6. Long 1/2" Extension + Ratchet (Rotating Engine)
  7. Spark Plug Socket + 3/8" Extension
  8. Feeler Guage

Valve Adjust - Mine is a K20A3 but the specs are just a bit different for the A2 and there's a few more of em to check. This should be checked with the engine cold as well.
  • Step 1 - Jack up the car and put it on jack stands. Remove the front driver side wheel so you can access the port to the crank bolt to roll the engine over manually to hit TDC for each cylinder.
  • Step 2 - Remove the intake cover and the spark plug cover.
  • Step 3 - Next disconnect the plugs for the coils and pull the spark plugs - I'm not sure if it's required but I labeled each one as I took it out to make sure it went back in the same place.



    You should end up with something looking about like this.



  • Step 4 - Now comes the fun! Remove the valve cover and set it aside.



    All opened up.



  • Step 5 - Now it's time to rotate the engine to get to TDC on the #1 Cylinder. Below is the location of the cylinders facing the front of the engine as well as the adjuster screw locations.



    TDC on the #1 Cylinder is setup by lining up the marks on the VTC actuator and the exhaust cam gear (C) and verify that both B and A are as they are shown.


  • Step 6 - With Cylinder #1 where it is you can now break out the feeler gauge - (I found the Craftsman angled one made life a whole lot easier).



    You should insert the feeler gauge between the top of the valve and the adjusting screw on the intake and exhaust valves.



    To get the correct size, start with one that is in the middle of spec and move up or down accordingly. You should feel slight drag on the gauge when moving it around, not too much and not to loose. If it is out of the listed spec than break the nut loose and tight or loosen as necessary and re-check your clearance.

  • Step 7 - Move on to Cylinder #3 by rotating the crank 180 degrees clockwise and verify the marks are as follows.


  • Step 8 - Move on to Cylinder #4 by rotating the crank 180 degrees clockwise and verify the marks are as follows.


  • Step 8 - Move on to Cylinder #2 by rotating the crank 180 degrees clockwise and verify the marks are as follows.


  • Step 9 - Now that your done you can slap everything back together - BE SURE to put the gasket material in the locations show below or otherwise it will leak - ask me how I know. Then tighten in the order show below as well.





All done!


Criticism / Suggestions wanted. I have gotten alot of info from this forum over the past 2 years, figured it was time to give a wee bit back
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Old 06-08-2009, 04:00 PM   #2
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another way to turn the crank is to jack the car up on the passenger side and put the car in fourth gear and just rotate the rim clockwise. that way you dont have to bother with taking off the rim. and it is good remove the spark plug so there's less compression and its easier to spin, just make sure nothing goes down there. good guide though

Last edited by d4nvu; 06-08-2009 at 04:04 PM.
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Old 06-08-2009, 09:02 PM   #3
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a2_dc5 is a rep WHORE
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very nice man

damn 100k hu? how she run?
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Old 06-08-2009, 09:10 PM   #4
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Old 06-08-2009, 10:44 PM   #5
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very nice man

damn 100k hu? how she run?
I did this a few months back - I'm sitting at 118k right now - she still runs like a top.
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Old 06-18-2009, 04:43 PM   #6
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Old 06-18-2009, 06:21 PM   #7
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i'm doing this, this weekend thanks!
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Old 04-11-2010, 11:16 PM   #8
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is it true that you have to do this when the car isn't warm or hot????? i wanna do it but i would have to drive to the hobby shop and do it there......thanks alot ...
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Old 04-12-2010, 08:24 AM   #9
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yes, car needs to be completely cooled down so that the measurements are not skewed by the hot expanded metal.
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Old 04-12-2010, 08:45 AM   #10
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good job man!
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Old 04-14-2010, 09:34 PM   #11
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What size are the valve nuts on the K20A3?Are the intake and exhaust nuts the same size ?
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Old 04-14-2010, 09:37 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigpapasRSX View Post
What size are the valve nuts on the K20A3?Are the intake and exhaust nuts the same size ?
don't know the size, maybe 10?

and the intake and exhaust are the same
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Old 04-14-2010, 09:39 PM   #13
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theres also this one: http://www.vtec.net/articles/view-ar...icle_id=143824
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Old 04-14-2010, 10:00 PM   #14
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Quote:
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don't know the size, maybe 10?

and the intake and exhaust are the same
I know its 10mm for the K20A2.But is it the same size for the K20A3?I have been searching on here and it does not say in the Helms.I am buying the valve tool for the job,but not shore what size to buy
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Old 04-16-2010, 04:16 AM   #15
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Old 04-16-2010, 10:45 AM   #16
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the adjusting nut on the a3 and a2 are the same size.
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Old 05-09-2010, 02:36 PM   #17
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I need to do this. Just hit 100k. I have put on my coilovers,intake,exhaust,ect. I change my oil and all that too. Just wondering would this be something I could do myself. Just dont wanna get in over my head. Seems like its not to hard, just worried since its my only car.ha
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Old 05-23-2010, 12:36 AM   #18
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my car is making a ticking noise from the engine. does it need a valve adjustment? i plan on doing this to see if it'll quite down. just changed the oil and tranny fluid today. how quick should i address this? is it a 'fix-it-now' fix or can i go for another week? i've been hearing this for a little while now but thought it was normal. after reading this and listening to some clips on youtube, i'm not so sure anymore.
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Old 05-23-2010, 07:08 AM   #19
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hmm i may try this soon on my car. 135k miles on it and i *think* i'm getting comfortable enough to do this
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Old 05-31-2010, 11:31 PM   #20
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nice
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Old 06-04-2010, 10:33 PM   #21
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nice job!
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Old 06-15-2010, 11:45 AM   #22
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nice!!! im gonna do this
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Old 06-19-2010, 05:47 PM   #23
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how do you turn the crank?
i didnt see it in the instructions.
thx in advance
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Old 06-23-2010, 08:04 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kwasley View Post
how do you turn the crank?
i didnt see it in the instructions.
thx in advance
see below

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrisb27 View Post
[*] Step 1 - Jack up the car and put it on jack stands. Remove the front driver side wheel so you can access the port to the crank bolt to roll the engine over manually to hit TDC for each cylinder.
as you can see OP listed it in his post. only thing is, the crank pulley is on the PASSENGER side of the car...i would remove the passenger wheel to access the crank bolt port.


Quote:
Originally Posted by jhon martan View Post
unless you have a Boss 302 or a 289 HP with solid lifters, you have hydraulics that never need adjusting.
^^^ why are you posting? you add nothing to the thread.
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Old 07-25-2010, 08:02 PM   #25
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What exactly am I looking at for the diagram where the liquid gasket spots are supposed to go?
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