Tools and Techniques: Ways to make life easier

[Keith DC5]

Several of us are employed within the automotive industry, so I thought it'd be nice to network and share some "tricks of the trade." As automotive professionals, we're introduced to revolutionary new tools and techniques every day, so I'm willing to bet that our fellow forum members can learn from us as well

We've all been in this position before: There's an obscure bolt that needs to be fastened, but it sits at an extremely ridiculous angle. Using a conventional socket, you attempt to install said fastener, but gravity prevails. The bolt has now fallen into the black abyss of the modern engine compartment. If you're lucky enough to find the bolt, what will you do next? A) do the same thing twice?, B) spend $300 on magnetized sockets?, C) have someone else deal with it?

Well here's a free solution:



Using a small piece of tissue paper (or paper towel), you can wedge the fastener within the socket. This prevents the nut/bolt from falling out, even when the ratchet is fully inverted. You can also use this technique when removing fluid drain bolts. We've all gone "fishing" for drain bolts before, so please feel free to utilize this technique the next time around. The last thing that anyone needs, is to be wrist-high in extremely hot carcinogenic fluids.

[mr_fobster]

Hammer......every ford technician should need at least 15 different sizes. fixes everything......hehehe



but umm ratcheting closed end wrenches! i LOVE these to death! also if they were a flexhead ratcheting wrenches.......ooouuuuhh.

[Keith DC5]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qjt8xrZWb4A

I absolutely love my Snap-On variable extensions. They're expensive, but you'll never have to "test fit" various extensions just to find the right length.

[jesselyons2002]

Using another wrench as leverage to loosen a stubborn bolt or nut.

(Example)

[Bath Tussue]

Originally Posted by jesselyons2002

Using another wrench as leverage to loosen a stubborn bolt or nut.

(Example)
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j2..._1580Large.jpg

I do that all the time!
The only problem I have is that it gives me to much torque that I sometimes strip the bolt trying to take it out.

[blursx03]

anyone have a technique that would work for getting that darn nut in the back that goes on the rear struts? Nothing I have quite fits in their.

[Bath Tussue]

A flexable joint.

[Ktec]

Originally Posted by Bath Tussue

A flexable joint.

http://www.hor-i-zon.com/catalog/images/583241.jpg

wrapping ^^^that, a flexible joint, with electrical tape to keep it at a 90 or 45 degree angle while you insert the bolt or nut....

its a life saver when working on the intake manifold's bottom bolts!

[Keith DC5]

Originally Posted by blursx03

anyone have a technique that would work for getting that darn nut in the back that goes on the rear struts? Nothing I have quite fits in their.

You can bend or remove the plastic panels covering the C-pillars, to reach the nuts straight-on (using an extension). The reason why this is preferable is because you CANNOT use a universal joint when torquing a fastener.



Since we're on the topic of hard-to-reach areas, you're working too hard if you don't own some flexible extensions:

[jesselyons2002]

Originally Posted by Keith DC5

You can bend or remove the plastic panels covering the C-pillars, to reach the nuts straight-on (using an extension). The reason why this is preferable is because you CANNOT use a universal joint when torquing a fastener.

http://home.jtan.com/~joe/KIAT/fig_8c.jpg

Since we're on the topic of hard-to-reach areas, you're working too hard if you don't own some flexible extensions:

http://www.drillspot.com/pimages/145/14548_300.jpg

Omg. I didnt know they made flexible extension. Do they work out good ???

[Keith DC5]

Originally Posted by jesselyons2002

Omg. I didnt know they made flexible extension. Do they work out good ???

If you're constantly working in tighter areas (ie. under the dash), they're worth their weight in gold. God knows that some screws, nuts, and bolts are impossible to access even with a universal joint.

Keep in mind that it's only to be used for low torque fasteners, such as distributor cap bolts, or panel screws, etc. Snap-On only offers a 1/4" drive flexible extension, but Matco does sell a 3/8" drive version. Depending on the application however, you may prefer the conventional flexible driver instead:

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog

If you don't already own a ratcheting driver, here's a kit I would recommend:

http://www.gearwrench.com/catalog/sc....jsp?part=8940

[blursx03]

Originally Posted by Keith DC5

You can bend or remove the plastic panels covering the C-pillars, to reach the nuts straight-on (using an extension). The reason why this is preferable is because you CANNOT use a universal joint when torquing a fastener.

http://home.jtan.com/~joe/KIAT/fig_8c.jpg

Since we're on the topic of hard-to-reach areas, you're working too hard if you don't own some flexible extensions:

http://www.drillspot.com/pimages/145/14548_300.jpg

I have a universal joint, but nothing like the flexible one in your post. That thing looks amazing! I ended up using a wrench a just hand tightened it with some decent force.

[kg98921byrams]

Originally Posted by Keith DC5

Since a handful of us are within the automotive industry, I thought it'd be nice if we could share some tools and techniques with our fellow forum members. As professionals, we're introduced to revolutionary new tools and techniques everyday, so I'm sure we can all learn from each other as well

We've all been in this position before: There's an obscure bolt that needs to be fastened, but it sits at an extremely ridiculous angle. Using a conventional socket, you attempt to install said fastener, but gravity prevails. The bolt has now fallen into the black abyss of the modern engine compartment. If you're lucky enough to find the bolt, what will you do next? A) try again?, B) spend $300 on magnetized sockets?, C) have someone else deal with it?

Well here's a free solution:

http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/6274/90556048oa8.jpg

Using a small piece of tissue paper (or paper towel), you can wedge the bolt within the socket. This prevents the fastener from falling out, even when the ratchet is fully inverted. You can also use this technique when removing fluid drain bolts. Why drop the bolt into an oily mess, when you can retain it with a small piece of tissue?

usually i just use tape such as electrical tape.

[J-sPeEd]

crowfoot sockets. helps me out with tightening bolts and nuts in awkward areas such that found on top mount turbo manifolds for example.

[2 Cuda's]

I got one from an odd source... Normally I wouldnt listen to a redneck, but an old timer once told me, if you ever have a bolt you cant loosen, just heat it slightly, and put a candle on it. Capillary action pulls the wax in between the threads and it will litterally just spin out. Pb blaster, aero kroil, wd, whatever cant hold a candle, to this method.... yes the pun was intended... Has saved many a busted knuckle and bolt, especially on some older vehicles that have seen salt corrosion. Like on lower control arm bolts, spring shackle bolts, etc...

[DzMiniz]

Originally Posted by J-sPeEd

crowfoot sockets. helps me out with tightening bolts and nuts in awkward areas such that found on top mount turbo manifolds for example.

http://images.buzzillions.com/images...629129_raw.jpg

These are awesome, HAD to use some a while back

[jester0110]

^x2
good tips

[2002 Sleepr]

Originally Posted by mr_fobster

Hammer......every ford technician should need at least 15 different sizes. fixes everything......hehehe

http://www.germes-online.com/direct/...tish_Type_.jpg

but umm ratcheting closed end wrenches! i LOVE these to death! also if they were a flexhead ratcheting wrenches.......ooouuuuhh.

I know I would be completely lost without my BFH tool

[Relapse]

Originally Posted by 2 Cuda's

I got one from an odd source... Normally I wouldnt listen to a redneck, but an old timer once told me, if you ever have a bolt you cant loosen, just heat it slightly, and put a candle on it. Capillary action pulls the wax in between the threads and it will litterally just spin out. Pb blaster, aero kroil, wd, whatever cant hold a candle, to this method.... yes the pun was intended... Has saved many a busted knuckle and bolt, especially on some older vehicles that have seen salt corrosion. Like on lower control arm bolts, spring shackle bolts, etc...

That's very interesting. I'm going to have to try that some time

[Extra Krispy]

these make life so much easier when working with anything with clips, esp when removing the front bumper on a rsx

[killertofupanda]

for those too cheap to buy a breaker bar, pvc pipes make good extension to get more torque out of a regular hand ratchet. my ghetto honda friends passed down this sacred knowledge in my first oil changes, and i am still grateful for the lesson to this day.

[Blown330]

Impact driver. Great tool.

[Extra Krispy]

Originally Posted by killertofupanda

http://www.slpipe.com/images/Bryce%20PVC.jpg

for those too cheap to buy a breaker bar, pvc pipes make good extension to get more torque out of a regular hand ratchet. my ghetto honda friends passed down this sacred knowledge in my first oil changes, and i am still grateful for the lesson to this day.

I have dont that many times except with a 2ft piece of metal pipe

[Mugen-Rwantanabe]

Alot of floor jacks ive seen have 2 peice handles, including mine and i just take one of the handle peices from it and theres my breaker bar works every time.

[SaYjAiBaO]

Originally Posted by J-sPeEd

crowfoot sockets. helps me out with tightening bolts and nuts in awkward areas such that found on top mount turbo manifolds for example.

http://images.buzzillions.com/images...629129_raw.jpg

those open end crowfoots suck balls. they'll get the job done if you work at the dealership and work on cars that are only a few years old tops.

i'm a huge snap-on guy and my whole tool box consists of snap on tools. being in canada has it's benefits . when i'm in school training (2 months a year, 3 years total) i get 20-40% off snap on tools. my philosophy is that you will be using these tools to make a living for the rest of your career, why not use the best?