DIY: fuel system upgrade (-6AN feed/return/walbro/fuel rail/fpr) install guide!

[robry]

RSX Fuel System upgrade (pump/feed/return)

Parts required:
1 Walbro fuel pump GSS342 order here
1 5/16” submersible fuel line (Napa # NBH N209 comes 12” long) or order here
1 3/8” submersible fuel line (Napa # NBH N213 comes 12” long)
4 3/8” ID fuel injector clamps (band style)
4 3/8” ID hose clamps (worm gear style)
1 1/2” ID hose clamp (worm gear style)
6 -6AN straight pushloc fittings
2 -6AN 45 degree pushloc fittings
2 -6AN 90 degree pushloc fittings
1 -6AN 180 degree pushloc fittings
1 -10AN fuel filter 10 microns
2 -6AN to -10AN male to female adapters (fuel filter)
25 feet of -6AN(3/8” ID) pushloc hose
1 aftermarket fuel rail with -6AN fitting adapters (if rail is larger diameter)
1 FPR with 1:1 boost reference port (ie, aeromotive A1000, make sure to get -6AN fittings for it)
1 vacuum line for your FPR
10 hose clamps for your fuel line under the car
10 self-tapping sheet metal screws (try to get Philips drive about ¾” long)
20 medium sized zipties

Tools:
Philips screwdriver
Flat blade screwdriver
Mallet and ½” extension OR Honda fuel pump lock ring tool
Dremel with various bits (sander drum, ball cutting bit, etc)
Sharp utility knife
Extra quart of oil (for installing fittings in hose)
Plastic epoxy (5min from advance auto)
Drill and 1/8” bit and ½” bit
10mm socket
12mm socket
14mm socket
Pliers
Dykes/cutters
11/16” open end wrench (-6AN fittings)
Various other wrenches may be needed depending on what you bought(adapters for fuel filter etc)

EDIT: here are 2 zip files incase the photo hosting dies or is blocked for people.

http://forums.clubrsx.com/attachment...1&d=1259552724

http://forums.clubrsx.com/attachment...1&d=1259552814

Removing the fuel cage:

Remove the back lower seat; it is a 10mm bolt in the right side in the gap between the bottom and seat backs. For our purposes, Magnesium removed both seatbacks and the bottom seat, so he could capture photos better.

Remove the 4 gold Philips screws from the top of the fuel tank cover shown here


Remove the grey plastic electrical connection from the top of the fuel cage assembly. If you have an 05/06 you’ll notice another electrical connection towards the front of the car just under the lip of sheet metal, you’ll need to remove that as well to gain full access to the fuel pump.


Next, remove the stock feed line, have some paper shop towels available, it WILL leak fuel everywhere as you can see in this next picture. You simply squeeze both plastic tabs and pull straight off, it will come off with a strong pull. I tucked this under the sheet metal between the bottom of the car and tank to keep it out of the way while we remove the fuel cage assembly.



Now, using a ½” extension and a mallet, hammer the black plastic retainer ring counter-clockwise to release the fuel cage from the fuel tank. There is a Honda tool as well to do this, but if you’re careful you shouldn’t hurt the plastic ring much.

[robry]

Pulling straight up on the fuel cage assembly, you will possibly need to help angle it out, it will sit in the tank as an L shape, so remember this while you’re pulling it out. Also, be careful of the fuel level float, it will be towards the passenger side and you’ll need to twist the cage at an angle to remove it without damaging anything. I would have a few clean shop rags available when you remove the cage so you don’t get fuel on your carpet.


Set your fuel cage assembly on a clean paper towel on a good surface to work on, you will need to make several modifications to the entire assembly.


First thing I would do is remove the bottom of the fuel cage assemble and disassemble the pump. We didn’t get a lot of photos of this step, you can follow palmerblock’s guide for details. I did use the knife to make a slice in the hose that comes from the fuel pump to remove it from the top of the cage. One thing I will mention is the fuel pump will be covered in its own little cage, on the backside you’ll see a retaining clip, and you need to remove that with a pair of pliers of your flat blade screw driver. Here is the naked stock fuel pump compared to the walbro, you can see the walbro is much longer.


Take the plastic cage the fuel pump was inside of (small skeleton looking thing) and use your knife to remove the top, where the stock pump feeds from. Shown here:



Now you’ll need to reassemble the fuel pump into the skeleton and put both end pieces on, don’t worry they won’t fit right, because the pump is longer, just get everything lined up like before and re-install the metal retaining clip at the end.


Take one ziptie and put it through the loops at the end of the fuel pump suspension pieces, then push another ziptie through the end of that one, so it’s linked. Take the flat end of the first ziptie and run it through the other end of the pump. I suppose it’s hard to explain, but you’ll see here in this next picture.


Before installing the pump back in the lower cage, attach your 5/16” hose with a regular worm gear clamp. I’ve had mine like this for over a year now (15,000 miles) and never had the hose blow off. Tighten it on there to hee-man tight lol. Next, reinstall the pump assemble into the lower cage, now you’ll see where you need to remove material to allow your new fuel feed line to exit. I used a knife, but you can use a dremel with a cut off wheel, the knife takes a little more effort but leaves a clean cut imo.

[robry]

Let’s move on to the top of the fuel cage. Take one of your bulk head nuts and drop it in between the stock feed and the top of the housing, like this.


Now you need to drill with your small drill bit in the CENTER of the nut. It will be hard; you can use a punch and get yourself a nice center. In this photo it looks really off center, but I think Mag snapped the picture while I was moving the bit around.


Once you have your starter hole, take your ½” drill bit and carefully follow the pilot hole you just drilled. End result will look like this:


If you look closely, you can see small ribs in the bottom of the plastic for the fuel cage. Take your dremel and the ball cutter tool, and gently remove these ribs. Also, you may need to make the top of the fuel cage level so that your bulk head fitting sits flush.

Assemble your bulkhead fitting with spacers and screw it down into the bulkhead nut underneath the fuel cage. You’ll notice you don’t need a wrench to tighten this since the fuel cage holds it snuggly. You can add your straight fittings on the bottom and then once you have it tightened and aligned, add your top fitting. This guarantees everything fits properly.



If you have all your clearances right, get your 5min epoxy out and mix up a big enough batch to cover your plastic spacers and the top part around where it all screws in at. Now you will reassemble the bulkhead fitting and put it exactly where you want it and tighten. Let this sit for a few minutes, but before you do, look at the FPR, it’s towards the back of the top of the pump cover and will have a golden color to it. There is a short black piece of tubing that connects to a plastic fitting that goes into the bottom of the cage to return fuel to the pump. Use your knife and cut both sides of this plastic tubing so you have just the plastic “L” shaped piece which attaches to the bottom of the cage. Get your 3/8” piece of submersible hose, and clamp it to the top of this piece, where you removed the old hose. Use a worm gear style clamp.


Next you’ll wrap the 5/16” fuel line from your fuel pump around the outside of the cage and up to your knew bulkhead fitting. Use a band style clamp on this and tighten it as tight as possible. You can use a little oil to help the line fit into the fitting. Next, you’re going to cut about 2” off your 3/8” fuel hose that goes to your plastic 90 degree L fitting for the bottom of the cage. Slip a band style clamp on this as well, add a touch of oil (I put it on my finger tip then rubbed it on the inside of the hose. Push this on the white barb that was used for your stock feed. The one right next to your new bulkhead connection. Tighten the clamp as much as possible.

[robry]

Put your ½” clamp over the plastic 90 and then push that onto the bottom of the cage, you’ll notice the 3/8” hose tries to push it back off. I would the clamp over the little ear and tightened it so the 3/8” fuel hose can’t pop the 90 degree piece off the fuel cage. Now we’re ready to put the cage back in the tank. I would use some compressed air to blow any dirt/dust/plastic clipping out of everything before reinstalling it.


Reinstall the ring the same way you took it off, using the mallet and ½” extension or use your Honda tool. You may have to work with the seal a bit, mine slipped right in but mag’s car took some extra help. Also make sure you hand thread the ring on correctly and don’t cross thread it, it’s easy to do.


Now you’ll notice that the wiring coming out of the top of the grey plastic connector is going to hit the bulkhead we just installed. You can easily pop the top clips and move the wiring to the other side of the connector, this will give you clearance. You may ALSO have to trim the side of the connector to allow it to sit flush and clip in. This is due to using your spacers on the bulkhead.


Next step is to run the fuel lines, this is pretty simple and will become obvious as how to route them. I usually do the feed first, since you’ll need to add the fuel filter inline as well as run it up to the fuel rail. On the 02/04 I had to remove the corner fuel tank bracket so I had enough room to run the lines up between the tank and the bottom of the car. I pushed the line up and gave myself an extra 2” past the fitting at the tank. Don’t push it over the fitting yet.




In this photo you can see both sets of lines ran. There is an indent at the bottom of the car that is perfect size for a fuel filter. Using your hose clamp clips, add one every 12-18” under the car, just to keep the line from drooping. I cut the line and put on the connectors and installed the fuel pump. Next was running the line up beside the subframe, up over the tranny and up to the fuel rail. If you have a sidewinder you may run your lines in the engine bay differently.

Once you figure out the overall length, I would put the fitting on at the tank. Heavily oil the barb side of the fitting and add some oil inside the hose. I actually took the fitting off and pushed against a piece of wood, you REALLY have to manhandle those fittings on the hose. Make sure to at least get the host over both barbs, if you can’t get it the entire way to the end, its okay.

[robry]

We used the passenger side of the fuel rail to feed into, using a 180 degree fitting. I suggest installing your injectors and fuel rail before you figure out where to cut your line.

Once you cut your line, decide where you’ll be mounting your FPR, again there is no right/wrong way, you just need it in the engine bay somewhere away from moving belts and hot items. On log manifold based cars, you can use one of the strut supports on the firewall or mount it near the battery tray, wherever makes sense.


Use a 45 degree fitting from the drivers-side fuel rail fitting to your FPR. Using some of your fuel line, press the fittings on, make sure you give yourself a little slack so the line isn’t tight, but don’t let it so long that its rubbing or coiling up on anything. Mag’s running the Greddy piping, so I used a hose mount from a caterpillar engine harness (lol yes) to mount his feed and return lines on, shown here.


Once your fuel rail feed is into your FPR, you can put a fitting on the end of your hose that goes to the return side of the FPR. We used a straight fitting but you can use a 45 or 90 or whatever you need to get your hose neatly routed under the car.


Run the return line back under your car right next to the feed line. I had to cross over the feed line at the front of the car right where it came under from the engine bay. Just use some zip ties to keep it from drooping. Use clamps the whole way underneath the car, like shown here:


Push your return line up next to your feed line between the tank and the bottom of the car and cut it to length so that you have enough line to go over the stock feed connector (there is a little plastic connector with ears you must remove first before you push the line over. Make sure to use a worm gear clamp on this and I would highly suggest pushing it over the little lip on the plastic thing. Mine has been fine but Mags popped off after a few days lol.


Put your tank cover back on with the 4 Philips screws and test your system by turning the key to “ON” several times. I watched the fuel pressure gauge as Mag cycled the fuel pump. You may need to do this 5+ times to get to your fuel pressure. If you’re FPR is new you might need to turn the pressure screw in some. Don’t worry, you can set base fuel pressure as soon as you start the car. Don’t forget the injector harness wire on the top of the valve cover, your fuel pump won’t turn on and the car will freak out without this connected (I found out the hard way lol) Check for leaks at all connections.

Once you’re certain the fuel system is leak free, add in your vacuum line but don’t connect it to the FPR yet. (I’m assuming you’ve already changed your injectors and dead times in your calibration, if not do this now and upload to the ecu) Start the engine and adjust fuel pressure, make sure you put your finger over the vacuum hose while you’re doing this (the one coming from your vacuum source, not the FPR). We set mag’s base fuel pressure to 50psi. Connect your vacuum line to your FPR and use a ziptie to keep it in place. Shut off the car and clean up your tools because you’re done!

[erik loza]

Bookmarked. Great job, guys!

[TK-421]

Nice writeup.

[renrab]

good job +rep

[robry]

I want to add, do not buy a BDL fuel rail if you are intending to use ID injectors. You can make it work (we were forced to hack up the rail and the intake manifold some) but ideally you can get a powerrevracing, golden eagle, etc. If you already have the BDL, try to sell it or be prepared to grind it and the intake manifold bosses away some.

[RSX8600]

Nice bro, thanks for the write up...

[JayRSXS]

Hotness -=D

[gzbreaks87]

sticky sticky sticky, great write up robry...shall we name it the end of all fuel system threads

[imbest123]

my hero.

in on one for sticky

[robry]

Photos are added, I will upload a zip file and attach it to the forum, incase his hosting goes down or changes. I will add in a office word document as well incase something happens or you want to print it out in a better format.

[Flanz]

good job ryan... i gotta do this all over again in the next few weeks lol...ughhh

this should be a sticky in the turbo section for sure.

[n0th1ng]

Excellent write up with great picture aid.

[magnEsium]

my fuel system


yay

[Inevitable]

nice write up. saved for future reference

[K20_Alex]

wow, this is amazing!

please sticky this!

[blackrsx530]

in on one for sticky also, this is just what i needed.

[lil-b]

best DIY ive seen posted in ages. kudos to you sir

[robry]

thanks gentlemen, if you have any questions let me know...I tried to be as thorough as possible when doing this.

[Gqracer]

In order to prevent the fuel spraying all over the place. Pop open the fuel cap to to clear the line.

[Project_karma]

Robry what kind of injectors you think i should get if i do this same set up with the peakboost gt30 kit. I just want 420-480.

[magnEsium]

Originally Posted by Project_karma

Roby what kind of injectors you think i should get if i do this same set up with the peakboost gt30 kit. I just want 420-480.

Injector Dynamic's 1000cc