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Old 01-10-2010, 04:16 PM   #1
stasis_DC5
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Smile DIY: Starter Removal and Installation (Base)

Since I've recently replaced my starter for the first time, I'd like to post this small DIY guide on replacing one on a Base Model RSX.

First, I've heard some stories about being able to take the starter off without removing the intake manifold. Well, after finding the location* of the starter, there was no way in hell I'd be able to get to it.
So, this guide will take you through the steps of removing the intake manifold to get to the starter.

* The starter is located right beneath the intake manifold and can be seen from under the car.


Here is a picture of how the starter looks like. Obviously this one is a Bosch. However, the factory starter for base models are made by Mitsuba, and have a bronze cylinder instead of a polished one like the Bosch starter in the picture.

Out of all the auto parts stores, even a few mom and pop stores, the cheapest place that sold a replacement starter was Pep Boys for $128.99 with core exchange and a lifetime warranty as long as you have the receipt.
So, be sure to keep it somewhere safe! Just FYI I also decided to scan my receipt and kept the file on my computer.

Now, on with the guide!

Step 1: Remove the intake manifold.

*Below is a link to a .pdf file that will take you through the steps for removing the intake manifold AND putting it back on.

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/ac...008_intake.pdf

** On step 5 on page 2 of the .pdf file you will be instructed to take off 2 small hoses. Both of which will leak coolant. I wasn't sure on what to do so I just put a small bucket under the car to catch the leak. I also plugged up one of the hoses with a bolt as a temporary solution. After everything was over, the car leaked enough coolant that I had to refill the radiator with some.

Step 2: Remove the starter.

- unplug the clip (the thin wire that you can just pull off)
- unscrew the nut (the fat wire with a round rubber piece you can lift up to access the nut)
- unscrew the 2 bolts that hold the starter

Step 3: Install the new starter.

Step 4: Install the intake manifold.

*Refer to the link in Step 1

Step 5: Finish

Overall, everything was pretty simple. It just took some time since I've never replaced the starter before nor have I removed an intake manifold.
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Old 01-10-2010, 04:36 PM   #2
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good diy and good advice

it's MUCH easier to remove the intake manifold to get to the starter. it's possible to replace it without completely removing the intake manifold, but after removing my intake manifold later on, it'll definitely be easier to do the starter with it off
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Old 01-10-2010, 04:40 PM   #3
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should have taken your own pictures for "your" D.I.Y lol

Might as well of just linked us to the PDF RSX manual


But yes taking the IM is the easiest way of doing this fix. For me it's a pain cause I have to remove the supercharger lol
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Old 01-10-2010, 09:46 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Type-'S'paz View Post
should have taken your own pictures for "your" D.I.Y lol

Might as well of just linked us to the PDF RSX manual


But yes taking the IM is the easiest way of doing this fix. For me it's a pain cause I have to remove the supercharger lol
go ahead and rub in the boost! lol! jk

nice write up ts
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Old 01-11-2010, 12:51 AM   #5
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thanks guys.

actually, i thought of taking my own pictures but decided not to since the .pdf file had diagrams. so, i was "eh, nvm. i'm too lazy."
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Old 01-11-2010, 05:41 PM   #6
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is there a difference between the type s starter and a base starter?
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Old 01-11-2010, 07:51 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrnguyen28 View Post
is there a difference between the type s starter and a base starter?
all i know is that the base starter is made by mitsuba and the type s starter is made by denso.
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Old 01-11-2010, 10:07 PM   #8
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Not necessarily true that they are company specific. Those 2 companies just offer them. There is a difference between them according to the Duralast rep I spoke with on the phone. I have a type-S and the Duralast part number is 19421. Paid 120ish for it, 50 core charge you get back when you return your old one. Ordered by Autozone arrived next day.

I just did mine today and can share some more pictures, as the one you have in original post is kind of misleading to show you the size of this thing.

Old and New next to a 13mm monkey for reference:


New:


Here is to give you an idea of its location in your bay:



See something missing??? Huge hole :


The top bolt looks like this, 14mm, and the bottom one is a 17mm regular bolt:


Installed:


...and the real headache of it all...


Had to loosen the tensioner assembly, remove the fuel rail just to fit it out. Oh and please excuse the dirty engine bay its been mid 20's...in Texas. Hope this helps ppl.

Last edited by JM RSX; 01-11-2010 at 10:09 PM.
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Old 01-12-2010, 12:58 PM   #9
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by what the two pictures looks like it seems they're different cause mines looks exactly what statis dc5 posted. i drive a base model and unfortunately my starter just went out a few days ago. this helps a lot thanks guys
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Old 01-20-2010, 03:51 PM   #10
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i just installed mine and mine making a bad scratch sound when starting. did u have to mess with the starter at all or anything before installing?
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Old 01-20-2010, 04:16 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sharpy rsx View Post
i just installed mine and mine making a bad scratch sound when starting. did u have to mess with the starter at all or anything before installing?
mine does something similar it doesn't per say make a "scratch" sound more like the crunch noise it would make if you were to turn the key when the car was already on. but it only makes that noise when its really cold out otherwise its good.
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Old 01-20-2010, 04:20 PM   #12
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its 75 degrees now in louisiana so that wouldint be it . is there a certain way to install a starter that i might have missed?
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Old 01-20-2010, 07:29 PM   #13
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its 75 degrees now in louisiana so that wouldint be it . is there a certain way to install a starter that i might have missed?
I think this DIY covered it....its pretty much unbolt and bold back on.
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Old 01-21-2010, 11:19 PM   #14
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I have the type s starter on my base it worked fine i have an 03
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Old 01-25-2010, 09:02 PM   #15
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Stasis, thanks for the great DIY,
I've got 3 questions:
When following the directions for the intake manifold removal,
Did you have to actually remove the front bumper?
Adjust the throttle cable and cruise control cables to spec after you put it back on?
How many O-rings did you need to purchase? On the service manual, it looks like 2 pieces, does it come in 1 pack?

Thanks! I'll be needing to do this myself as well since the dealership quoted me $940 new OEM part + labor and an independent mechanic quoted me $1K in Northern California.
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Old 04-08-2010, 05:18 PM   #16
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Having starting issues after replacing my starter, ruff starts and having to crack the throttle body open via the gas pedal to start it, any help would be great
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Old 04-09-2010, 09:19 PM   #17
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hrmm..that doesn't sound like a starter issue. A faulty fuel pump could be a problem. Do you normally run the gas tank dry? Are you on an incline or decline? Do you have idle issues? Have you cleaned out your air intake?
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Old 04-09-2010, 09:23 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrnguyen28 View Post
is there a difference between the type s starter and a base starter?
Base doesn't have that extra solenoid on top of the starter like the type-s ones...But you can use either one regardless its a base or type-s
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Old 04-09-2010, 09:36 PM   #19
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No fuel issues. Flat as a board, is more prevalent in cold weather.No idle issues cleaned entire intake throttle body ect. Never had a problem before changing the starter, throwing no codes no hesitation or loss of power, just a ruff start, or no start, or a stumble to start. I believe it is derectly related to the starter. I found this post by aneather member.......................................I have a 2003 base RSX and months ago began having a starting issue. It all started the first cold day of the year and sounded like my battery was goin bad. I would turn the ignition foward, let prime, start, then the engine would crank slowly acting as if the battery didnt have the juice to crank. I would wait five secs, sometimes less, sometimes more, and would fire right up like a new battery. ( battery is a oreileys super start not even 1yr old.) the problem continued to get worse til I would have to jack up the car in a parking lot and bang on the starter while my wife cranked and finally would start. I first went to auto zone bc they were the closest and ordered a starter. after replacing the starter now it fires up everytime strong but sometimes makes a grinding sound similar to holding the key too long. sometimes its so bad it sound loud and takes several tries. I took back the auto zone starter, got my full refund and put in a oreileys remanufactured starter. I am still having the same grind/ugly start as with the autozone starter. People say "its still the starter, sometimes you get a bunch of bad ones keep replacing it".. but this has never happened to me in other vehicles I've replaced tthe starter in. Even with auto zone and oreileys starters. My question is what could this be? At first it was a really weak start, now strong start, another new battery but grindind sound is there and sounds damaging!! This happens cold/warm/hot.... pretty frequently actually. sometimes its like I gotta be quick and precise when starting up my car. As if I just flick the ignition forward really quick to avoid this. Also....somepeople tell me, "maybe the flywheel is missin teeth in certain parts"... but it cant be. never EVER made this sound until I replaced the starter. even after replacing the the first replacement starter( the auto zone brand) I inspected the bendix, and what I could see on the fly wheel gears. Everything on both ends looks fine. My car is well maintained, not raced, or neglected and has about 111,000+ on the odom. It sucks if this is just bad luck on buying starters bc it not a quick fix.. takes me a couple hrs to replace a starter an my RSX and also I have had my starter, alternator, and battery tested often with this issue and everything tests good. Even at diff locations to make sure there doin the tests right.... I'm running outta options and cant afford the car to go to the shop or dealer. Any more help or advice would be greatly apreciated......and is exatly like what I am experiancing
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Old 04-10-2010, 03:02 AM   #20
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so when you say rough start, do you mean slow, hesistating start, like the post you copied/pasted here? And this happened right after you replaced the starter? Maybe it is a bad starter. Did you get an Autozone (or similar) one or a Honda one? Are the bolts holding the starter tight? I guess if it happened right after you replaced it, it's gotta be the problem.

But if you say that you have to step on the gas to open the throttle body and then it works, that might not be related to the starter. If you replaced it yourself, you had to remove basically the whole front end to access it right? (that's what the Acura service manual says) Did you make sure the throttle cable is calibrated correctly? It could be too tight or too loose.
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Old 04-10-2010, 12:10 PM   #21
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Exactly what I thought, so I went back through the entire install and re did it checking, double checking, tripple checking, EVERYTHING. 99.9% sure it is the reman. starter, but from what I can find out, The mitsuba starter is the only one that is not going to have this problem.
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Old 04-10-2010, 01:36 PM   #22
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yea, must be your starter then. I opted for the OEM Honda starter...was ridiculously expensive at 600 but it looks like it was worth it.

BTW, how did you end up installing your starter yourself? I couldn't get those tiny push tabs off of the radiator support (had to release them from the inside, but I only had like 1" clearance between the radiator T bar and the radiator). Also, the rubber hoses were glued/sealed shut on the engine parts, I couldn't pull them off without risk of stretching/cracking the hose.

I ended up paying the dealership....
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Old 04-10-2010, 02:05 PM   #23
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It is a long and tediouse process, the hoses become heat bonded over time and you have to gently pull and work the vacume hoses off. if your talking about the lower rad. support bracket bolt, yea it's a fun one to get to, you have to pull the defuser plastic to get to it. it is the most work I have had to do to do a starter, but have owned and worked on imports my whole life so I have come accustome to how and what needs to be done. As long as you take your time and don't let yourself get rushed or frusterated it is easy, my hardest problem was releasing the whire harnesses and clips, they where truly a butch with my big ass meathook hands.
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Old 04-11-2010, 01:32 PM   #24
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I've noticed that some guys are installing themseles and are removing the whole bumper?? you don't have to. You can just remove the four bolts on the bumper subframe.. remove the radiator supports, and remove the bracket bolts to the A/C . Then just lift up and pull backand it should rest in place giving enough room to remove the IM. I didnt even remove the upper/lower maine radiator hoses to do this... hopes this helps save yall a little time.
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Old 04-11-2010, 01:36 PM   #25
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how come you installed a type s starter on your base? were you having any problems replacing with the re manufac "base" starter and just tried using a type s re man starter?
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