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Old 05-07-2012, 01:40 AM   #1
cty0204
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Smile A/C didn't blow cold air when idle

Hello guys!

My car didn't blow cold air while it's idle but I know it seems a common thing for RSXs with low rpm.
So what i did was just rev up some rpm and the HVAC started blowing cold.

But now it got worse situation. Now the A/C not blows cold air anymore when it's idle with my revving up rpm. It only blows cold while running.

I check the temperature gauge and the fans for coolant, seems they're all good.

Anyone helps?


Thanks!!

Last edited by cty0204; 05-07-2012 at 05:05 PM. Reason: wrong words
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Old 05-07-2012, 07:51 AM   #2
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Check to see if the condenser fan is blowing (the fan in front of the compressor)

Then if that is working the clutch on the AC may be the culprit.
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Old 05-07-2012, 09:56 AM   #3
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make sure both fans come on when a/c is on and engine running. it might be possible that your a/c system might be low on refrigerant, probable cause of a small leak. recommend to take car to your local shop.
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Old 05-07-2012, 12:24 PM   #4
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Thank you guys very much!!

I'll go figure out.
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Old 05-08-2012, 08:36 PM   #5
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My 98 civic did this. Turned out being the clutch on the A/C compressor.
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Old 05-09-2012, 04:33 PM   #6
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Check your coolant level.
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Old 05-16-2012, 01:38 PM   #7
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I'm calling FAN problem. If the car cools while running (driving) then ambiant air pushing past the heat exchanger replaced the function of the AC fan. Get on that buddy ASAP.
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Old 05-16-2012, 03:40 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by mtxjohn View Post
I'm calling FAN problem. If the car cools while running (driving) then ambiant air pushing past the heat exchanger replaced the function of the AC fan. Get on that buddy ASAP.
If the clutch on the compressor is going out it will behave exactly the same way he described also.
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Old 06-04-2012, 01:30 PM   #9
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It's also possible that the water pump is going out.
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Old 06-04-2012, 04:06 PM   #10
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I'm gonna say low coolant. Probably have air in the system, and by reving it you circulate the air/coolant.
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Old 06-07-2012, 03:06 PM   #11
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Thank all you guys reply.

I checked the level of coolant, its still just at max and I think I reflushed it 30k miles ago.
Both fan work, but not sure works like them suppose.
Basically revving up rpm can make it blow cold, but sometimes depends on the temperature outside, sometimes A/C shuts off while I'm cruising (about 2500rpm, pretty hot outside).

Haven't check the compressor clutch yet. I'll go check further.

Thanks again!!
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Old 06-07-2012, 04:08 PM   #12
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a/c system overcharge can cause all sorts of problems.
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Old 06-09-2012, 10:22 PM   #13
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Hook a gauge up to your low-side port and make sure your freon is under/over charged.
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Old 06-10-2012, 09:48 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by cty0204 View Post
Thank all you guys reply.

I checked the level of coolant, its still just at max and I think I reflushed it 30k miles ago.
Both fan work, but not sure works like them suppose.
Basically revving up rpm can make it blow cold, but sometimes depends on the temperature outside, sometimes A/C shuts off while I'm cruising (about 2500rpm, pretty hot outside).

Haven't check the compressor clutch yet. I'll go check further.

Thanks again!!
Get it up on stands if you can and have a look at the side of the compressor and see how the clutch is behaving. Sometimes it will stay on for a while, then when it gets really hot it will shut off. I'm willing to bet you have power going to it constantly, just the clutch is failing when it gets hot.
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Old 06-10-2012, 10:42 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cty0204 View Post
Thank all you guys reply.

I checked the level of coolant, its still just at max and I think I reflushed it 30k miles ago.
Both fan work, but not sure works like them suppose.
Basically revving up rpm can make it blow cold, but sometimes depends on the temperature outside, sometimes A/C shuts off while I'm cruising (about 2500rpm, pretty hot outside).

Haven't check the compressor clutch yet. I'll go check further.

Thanks again!!
don't check the over fill, pull off the actual radiator cap, start the car, and blip the throttle a couple of times, see if air comes up.
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Old 06-10-2012, 10:32 PM   #16
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had same problem change out condenser and ac compressor turns out it was the compressor thanks
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Old 06-11-2012, 05:36 AM   #17
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1st, the engine cooling(coolant) system has nothing to do with A/C or refrigeration. The engine has a radiator and the A/C has his own radiator(called Condenser) only refrigerant flows inside the condenser with his seperate fan to bring down high pressure from compressor.

Most commun situation is that you are low on refrigerant(R-134a) or the fan from condenser is not coming on causing a high pressure cut out to compressor, wich is normal to protect from blowing up. If you had added refrigerant it may be overcharged.
Start by conecting gauges and check if you low on freon.
Any question let me know. If you take to a shop post what they say, just to see if it makes sense and they don't over estimate.
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Old 06-11-2012, 04:14 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Bryanrsx View Post
1st, the engine cooling(coolant) system has nothing to do with A/C or refrigeration. The engine has a radiator and the A/C has his own radiator(called Condenser) only refrigerant flows inside the condenser with his seperate fan to bring down high pressure from compressor.

Most commun situation is that you are low on refrigerant(R-134a) or the fan from condenser is not coming on causing a high pressure cut out to compressor, wich is normal to protect from blowing up. If you had added refrigerant it may be overcharged.
Start by conecting gauges and check if you low on freon.
Any question let me know. If you take to a shop post what they say, just to see if it makes sense and they don't over estimate.

This post is full of so much wrong. While they have separate radiators and what not, the condenser sits right in front of/behind the radiator. If you're coolant is low at idle there probably won't be any in the radiator causing it to heat soak. Metal, being the wonderful conductor of heat that it is, will heat soak everything else around it. Empty your coolant and see if your A/C works at idle.
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I don't understand the fascination with dragging your front lips on the floor and having stupid camber. Hellaflush = Hellaretarded
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These kids don't even know about 5th and 6th gear pulls.

Last edited by Stitch; 06-11-2012 at 04:21 PM.
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Old 06-11-2012, 06:14 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Stitch View Post
This post is full of so much wrong. While they have separate radiators and what not, the condenser sits right in front of/behind the radiator. If you're coolant is low at idle there probably won't be any in the radiator causing it to heat soak. Metal, being the wonderful conductor of heat that it is, will heat soak everything else around it. Empty your coolant and see if your A/C works at idle.
Lololololol. This is the most funny thing I've ever heard. It's like trying to "fix a power steering leak but taking apart an A/C line because A/C line is the problem". Lololol.

Sorry man it was hilarious. Let me explain your confusion, if you take a look yourself the condenser is 1 INCH away from the radiator and the support is diferent from radiator with rubber bushings betwen frame and support. The radiator has his own support away from condenser and another thing the condenser sits in front of the radiator, by this meaning there's NO metal to metal heat transfer and because it sits in front of radiator there is no heat soak, the condenser recieve all the fresh air before it travel to radiator.
If in case there's air in the cooling system of the engine, you might be looking at a possible bad head gasket.
I hope you understand this elementary lesson.
I'm a refrigeration technician and this is the first time I've heard this type of solution of yours.

Please people, if you don't have any idea what's going on, please don't post and have this guy pay twice. Like I said if you have any question lmk. Thank You.
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Old 06-12-2012, 04:47 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by Bryanrsx View Post
Lololololol. This is the most funny thing I've ever heard. It's like trying to "fix a power steering leak but taking apart an A/C line because A/C line is the problem". Lololol.

Sorry man it was hilarious. Let me explain your confusion, if you take a look yourself the condenser is 1 INCH away from the radiator and the support is diferent from radiator with rubber bushings betwen frame and support. The radiator has his own support away from condenser and another thing the condenser sits in front of the radiator, by this meaning there's NO metal to metal heat transfer and because it sits in front of radiator there is no heat soak, the condenser recieve all the fresh air before it travel to radiator.
If in case there's air in the cooling system of the engine, you might be looking at a possible bad head gasket.
I hope you understand this elementary lesson.
I'm a refrigeration technician and this is the first time I've heard this type of solution of yours.

Please people, if you don't have any idea what's going on, please don't post and have this guy pay twice. Like I said if you have any question lmk. Thank You.
Knowledge has been dropped!
I agree 100%!
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Old 06-12-2012, 03:40 PM   #21
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Oh ok... so metal has to touch for it to conduct heat? too bad heat can transfer through thin air. Not only from an inch away but sometimes even a foot. That's like saying a short ram intake won't heat soak because there's a rubber coupling separating it from the throttle body. But then again, what do I know.

I'm just saying. I have had this issue where the AC won't blow cold air at idle. Opened the radiator cap, blipped the throttle and gobs of air came up... soon as i poured more coolant in, the car was frigid.

You made your post based on some crackerjax box knowledge. Mine was made from previous experiences.

While you may be a refrigeration "technician", you obviously lack "elementary" knowledge of thermodynamics and laws of cooling


IF rad A is 250 degrees and it is 1 inch from rad B at 66 degrees. The two temperatures will get closer and closer with time until they equalize. Try this for example, take a cup of ice and a hot cup of water and place them next to each other.. NOT TOUCHING OF COURSE, GOD FORBIED. Put a thermometer in each and tell me what happens.

EDIT:

Also in regards to your comment about the condenser getting all the cold air first because it sits in front of the radiator... Are we not talking about a vehicle standing still at idle?? WHAT fresh air is it getting first?
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I don't understand the fascination with dragging your front lips on the floor and having stupid camber. Hellaflush = Hellaretarded
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These kids don't even know about 5th and 6th gear pulls.

Last edited by Stitch; 06-12-2012 at 05:36 PM.
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Old 06-13-2012, 01:36 AM   #22
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Impressive! How you confuse yourself. First you say empty your coolant and see if it works on idle, and of course re-fill it, then you say open your radiator cap, blip the throttle and gobs of air will come up. Hugh!

Let's say we do your first choice, empty the coolant and re-fill it. In the process before you put your radiator cap on, the engine needs to come at its normal temp. range allowing the thermostat to fully open so no air is trapped in the cooling system causing high pressure and temp, if not it won't last long for a new head gasket replacement.

And for your second, it's self explanatory if you read the first one. There might be an engine overheating problem. why blip the throttle if your thermostat is open? Unless there's compression from cylinder causing to react, then head gasket is not your friend.

I'm going through what it say on the original post from cty0204:
At idle A/C won't cool until I rev up,
then situation got worst, now it only cool when driving. Further post down: I checked coolant level and was reflushed 30k miles ago.

Ok now, If is the coolant he would of have this problem a wile ago, and I don't believe he put 30k miles in less than a year, so he probably had it done before last summer when A/C problem could of happen initiative.
But yes if your engine is overheating, could cause problem at idle.

Because of the info that was provided by cty0204 I came with that simple conclusion on my first post.
No hard feelings, I'm just trying to have a solution for the guy.
This is all based on experience of mine in this industry.
Question for you.
Is this your only solution just coolant?
How many other possible causes could be?
This is all about getting this guy A/C going, if you know about this, give this guy other possible causes for him to look for, not just coolant.
Oh! Congratulation on you. A+ on laws of thermodynamic

cty0204 please post if repair was made. Thank you.
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Old 06-13-2012, 12:57 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Bryanrsx View Post
Impressive! How you confuse yourself. First you say empty your coolant and see if it works on idle, and of course re-fill it, then you say open your radiator cap, blip the throttle and gobs of air will come up. Hugh!

Let's say we do your first choice, empty the coolant and re-fill it. In the process before you put your radiator cap on, the engine needs to come at its normal temp. range allowing the thermostat to fully open so no air is trapped in the cooling system causing high pressure and temp, if not it won't last long for a new head gasket replacement.

And for your second, it's self explanatory if you read the first one. There might be an engine overheating problem. why blip the throttle if your thermostat is open? Unless there's compression from cylinder causing to react, then head gasket is not your friend.

I'm going through what it say on the original post from cty0204:
At idle A/C won't cool until I rev up,
then situation got worst, now it only cool when driving. Further post down: I checked coolant level and was reflushed 30k miles ago.

Ok now, If is the coolant he would of have this problem a wile ago, and I don't believe he put 30k miles in less than a year, so he probably had it done before last summer when A/C problem could of happen initiative.
But yes if your engine is overheating, could cause problem at idle.

Because of the info that was provided by cty0204 I came with that simple conclusion on my first post.
No hard feelings, I'm just trying to have a solution for the guy.
This is all based on experience of mine in this industry.
Question for you.
Is this your only solution just coolant?
How many other possible causes could be?
This is all about getting this guy A/C going, if you know about this, give this guy other possible causes for him to look for, not just coolant.
Oh! Congratulation on you. A+ on laws of thermodynamic

cty0204 please post if repair was made. Thank you.
No, i told YOU to empty your radiator fluid, then see if you got cold air from your a/c (to simulate not having enough coolant)

The fact of the matter is that engine coolant temps affect EVERYTHING. Your AC doesn't produce cold air, it simply condenses it and removes moisture... the by product is the ABILITY to produce COLDER air. But if your car is blowing hot air out at idle with the AC off, Then how is it supposed to blow out cold air WITH the AC
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Last edited by Stitch; 06-13-2012 at 01:01 PM.
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Old 06-13-2012, 11:14 PM   #24
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Do you know anything about HVAC?
Because u don't make any sense to solve this.
If you know that much, just name all possible causes to solve this A/C problem. Ok? Not the solutions that I already posted initially.
The same question ones again. If you don't, then lmk so I can give you a boost.
This is just to solve this guy issue, but it has gotten more of a theory argument with you.
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Old 06-16-2012, 12:39 AM   #25
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You are all retarded.

1. Radiator temperature WILL affect condenser temperature.
2. Fans working at idle, proper refrigerant level, coolant levels, engine temp, etc, my k20a2 based cooling system NEVER cooled properly at idle in 100 degree Houston weather.
3. K24 swap improved lower rpm cooling (tsx engine has larger crank pulley

Maybe try a k24 pulley and belt? Seems like you could find one easy. Tons of k24 swap people swapping because the pulley "robs" so much "power"
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