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Old 01-02-2014, 12:35 PM   #1
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RSX Type S NA Build

Okay here is what I have on my 03 RSX type S:

K20A2 with 120k on it
OBX Race Header
Invidia Q300 Exhaust (No cat)
Kpro
RBC Intake Manifold
AEM V2 Intake
Tuned By Chris Ortiz at Fox Body in Phoenix

I just had it dynoed and put down 214.600 WHP and 151.855 torque.

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P.S. This is on a mustang dyno, should be around 225 on a Dynojet

I am shooting for a daily driver with that "o shit" feeling when you are on the road. My goal is somewhere between 250-300 WHP, while bringing up the torque curve. I have been looking at doing the head to try and get to the 240 mark, which shouldn't be too hard to achieve.

EDIT:

So I decided to go with 06-08 TSX cams for now, just waiting on them in the mail. Did a mini wire tuck and some painting, and installed some K Tunex RDX injectors and going for a retune tonight, I have a feeling my injectors were failing and that's why I detonated two of my plugs.

EDIT:
So the detonating was due to fuel injectors not able to keep up above 8k. Just picked up the RDX 410 injectors and a less aggressive tune.
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219whp and 155wtq

Slightly better numbers but 5 whp increase in the midrange. And again this is on a mustang dyno. Crazy numbers for having no head or bottom end work down at all. I am also testing out the godspeed motor mounts. They are $218 new on Amazon. I have zero engine movement and all wheel hop is gone. They are pretty solid built and fitment is great, I highly recommend them. Time will tell on how long they will last, but by the quality, I would say just as long as Hasport but half the price.

Last edited by slimslide; 05-21-2014 at 05:28 PM.
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Old 01-02-2014, 01:52 PM   #2
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1. I believe the general consensus is that porting/polishing the head is not worth the time and money. The head already breathes relatively well. Better off leaving this for a full blown motor build.

2. The basic idea of a cam is to let the motor breathe. Cams should definitely be next on your list as it will help you gain both hp and tq.

3. There are a few cams out there that don't require any valvetrain upgrade. Otherwise I think you will have to upgrade springs, retainers and maybe seals. I think the valves are optional.

4. I think you are right on the rev limit. I'm sure it was either 8600 or 8800 but either way, you won't be able to go much higher than that.

Also, did you mean you have a Q300 exhaust? I have never heard of or seen a Q200 on the RSX. If it does exist, how does it compare to the Q300?

GL with build!
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Old 01-02-2014, 02:06 PM   #3
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Fixed, it was the q300 hit the wrong damn key. Yeah cams are my next purchase, but every cam I have been reviewing seems to focus on shear HP gains. I am interested in both HP and torque. I was trying to find the sock 03 Type S camshaft specs to use a baseline when comparing cams but I haven' had any luck online, I will have to check my helms when I get home.

Just to clearify on the cam question, I was looking to see:

1) which cam has the most to do with torque gains? (Exhaust or intake if there is an answer here)

2) when comparing cam measurements is there an optimal range for an equal increase between HP and Torque in the cam lobe specs?

Thanks for your other answers, they clear a few things up.
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Old 01-11-2014, 10:25 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slimslide View Post
Fixed, it was the q300 hit the wrong damn key. Yeah cams are my next purchase, but every cam I have been reviewing seems to focus on shear HP gains. I am interested in both HP and torque. I was trying to find the sock 03 Type S camshaft specs to use a baseline when comparing cams but I haven' had any luck online, I will have to check my helms when I get home.

Just to clearify on the cam question, I was looking to see:

1) which cam has the most to do with torque gains? (Exhaust or intake if there is an answer here)

2) when comparing cam measurements is there an optimal range for an equal increase between HP and Torque in the cam lobe specs?

Thanks for your other answers, they clear a few things up.
1. Kelfords are one of the most popular brand here, a stage 1 would be good cause you don't need to upgrade your valve train and make good gains. If you really want torque a k24 is your best bet but your motor should still be healthy but it's all up to you.

2. There should be check the cam section lots of info there.

My personal advise for you is to just do stage 1 kelfords and call it a day. Making more power on the k20a2 gets expensive and unreliable, you'll just start breaking things and having to upgrade everything.
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Old 01-14-2014, 03:51 PM   #5
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Those are really good numbers with stock a2 cams
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Old 01-14-2014, 03:57 PM   #6
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If you look at the original dyno you see the dip below 100hp prior to VTEC. I just found the culprit.
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Hitting the dyno again soon, should make quite a bit more power this time.
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Old 01-14-2014, 04:27 PM   #7
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Why did the plug melt? That is a symptom, not a cause.
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Old 01-15-2014, 09:54 PM   #8
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Crappy autolights....
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Old 01-15-2014, 09:55 PM   #9
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Doh!
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Old 01-16-2014, 10:57 AM   #10
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What do the other plugs look like? And which cylinder was that plug from? I don't think Autolite was the problem.
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Old 01-16-2014, 11:05 AM   #11
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The picture is of cylinder 1. Cylinder 4 looked similar , 2 &3 were okay for 2 years of use.
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Old 01-16-2014, 11:06 AM   #12
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What do you think the issue is?
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Old 01-16-2014, 12:19 PM   #13
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Quote:
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What do you think the issue is?
Those two injectors might be getting clogged or just failing in general, and thus leaning out those cylinders. As a result, the other two cylinders would probably be a bit rich as the ECU tries to keep the O2 sensor reading in the correct range. You could have the injectors test flowed and cleaned.
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Old 01-16-2014, 01:59 PM   #14
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We really need to see all four plugs.
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Old 05-21-2014, 03:14 PM   #15
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Just wondering if you ever got the cams installed? If so what kind of numbers did you achieve?

I'm personally getting the tsx cams (oem quality) and same set up as you. I'm hoping to achieve 230 whp. Anything above 220 i'll personally be happy.
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Old 05-21-2014, 05:09 PM   #16
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It's gonna be hard to break 250whp with the k20 short block unless you go with forged connecting rods and higher compression pistons. Def possible, other route of course is k24 frankenstein (which I did and...omg I love driving all over again)
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Old 05-21-2014, 05:16 PM   #17
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Still working on the cash for the cams. 250whp should not be hard. My 219 dyno run was on a mustang dyno, which will be ~15 more on a dynojet. With cams and a retune I should be right around 270. I will be shooting for the end of august for my cams.
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Old 05-21-2014, 05:20 PM   #18
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The spark plugs ended up being a technical issue on my end. The k20a2 requires NGK 7s, and I was running 6s. Issue resolved now.
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Old 05-21-2014, 05:25 PM   #19
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?
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Old 05-22-2014, 08:30 PM   #20
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The dark side is the best side. k24a2 frank and k24a2 long block is the diff of 5-7 hp. marginal in the thought of cost per HP, others will argue that k20 head flows and crossover vetch is better bla bla bla... Im building a oem bottom end with 09 TSX rods and pistions. built head with drag 2.2. Im hoping for 300 or close, most likely 270. . Leo to have a stock k20 block your more likely looking at 220-230. Depending on bolt on and tune. Henderson Performance, Cory, is the shit. has tuned my car 4 time, 2 times when it was a base. and now 2 times with my k24.
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Old 05-22-2014, 08:35 PM   #21
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Haven't scene a plug melt like that. Excessive heat must be building in the chamber due to lean conditions. Who ever your tuner is, is he familiar with kseries engines? He should be able to see injector pulse with and see if one is firing more then the others. Also if was meted like that you should of had a misfire and ran like shit. Hoping that no other damage is caused.
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Old 05-22-2014, 08:55 PM   #22
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k24a2 frank and k24a2 long block is the diff of 5-7 hp. marginal in the thought of cost per HP, others will argue that k20 head flows and crossover vetch is better bla bla bla... Im building a oem bottom end with 09 TSX rods and pistions. built head with drag 2.2. Im hoping for 300 or close, most likely 270. .
I am not doubting you about the 5-7hp difference (I'll take your word on it -- I'm ignorant on this), but if you're going to take said K24A2 long block and upgrade the valvetrain and change the cams, then wouldn't you definitely want the better flowing K20A2 head at that point? Just asking. Figured you meant 5-7hp difference with A2 or TSX cams
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Old 05-22-2014, 10:26 PM   #23
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There is a lot theory on this concept. tons of info on both k20a2 heads vs k24a2 head vs k20z1 ect. Search on k20a and here you will find sum stuff on what ppl have done. They all flow very similar. For the price of an a2 head vs a k24a2 head there is minor differences that for me don't equal ##s. Stick with k24a2 long block save the $$ and get better cams. Kelford is shit for ## you will pull out of them vs others that are the same price or cheaper.

Sum ppl will say the k24a2 head make more tq as well as the bigger displacement of the k24a2 that also adds to the Tq of the engine. Hard to compare the 2 tho unless your have a k24a2 long block vs a k24a2 head with the same k24 block, bolt ones tuner, dyno, ect, everything has to be the same other then the head then you can see the major difference.
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Old 08-05-2014, 08:11 AM   #24
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Old 10-13-2014, 01:12 PM   #25
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I havent been on here for awhile as I destroyed my trans. I havent got the cams installed yet. The seller ended up bailing after a week of telling me they were in the mail ( I love PayPal and their refund policy).

Here is a question though: People are hoping to break 220 whp with cams, and I am at 219 without. This is on a Mustang dyno, which means on a dyno jet I'm looking at another ~20 WHP gain due to the differences on how they interpret HP/TQ. How is that?
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