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Amsoil VS Royal Purple VS Redline

18K views 27 replies 18 participants last post by  zeppdogg 
#1 ·
What oil you think is the best to use in our RSX? I tried it all and I like using Amsoil 0W30.
 
#3 · (Edited)
You do not need 0w30 for Hawaii's climate. You can use 10w30, or if you're experiencing oil consumption, 10w40. In fact, 10w30 generally tends to be more shear stable than 0w30 oils, so that in itself is a bonus. As far as brands go, I'm not a brand-whore for anything in particular, so long as it's from a group III, IV, or V synthetic base stock. Pennzoil Platinum is probably one of the best synthetics for the money at ~ $2-4 per quart.

As for AMSoil and RP, I see good and bad things with their oil analyses, but the bottom line is whether or not you want to spend ~$35-40+ per oil change. IMO save money and do more frequent changes, because the cost with AMSoil is only justified if you keep that oil in there for 10, 15, or 20k miles. For Hawaii's driving conditions, I personally don't feel that 20k miles intervals are advisable.

why would you ever use 0w30 in an type-s ????
0w-30 is more fluid in colder climates. Oil tends to "thicken" when it's cold, so lower viscosities (5w and 0w) will allow the oils to remain fluid. Although it needs to be pretty damn cold for 0w30, it's perfectly fine to use it in place of 5w30. 0w30 simply reflects a wider operating range: you can use it from -45-100+ degrees. 10w30 on the other hand should only be used from 20-100+ degrees.

why would you ever use anyting else than 5w30 in an type-s ??
Do you even know what the 5w-30 rating reflects? It denotes the cold and hot viscosities of the oil. It's perfectly fine to use 10w30 for example, in climates that never go below freezing. As mentioned earlier, 40 weight oils will also reduce oil consumption.

why is there so many noob on crsx ???
Judging by what I've seen, you know no more than they do.
 
#5 · (Edited)
You do not need 0w30 for Hawaii's climate. You can use 10w30, or if you're experiencing oil consumption, 10w40. In fact, 10w30 generally tends to be more shear stable than 0w30 oils, so that in itself is a bonus. As far as brands go, I'm not a brand-whore for anything in particular, so long as it's from a group IV or V synthetic base stock. Pennzoil Platinum is probably one of the best synthetics for the money at ~ $2-4 per quart.

As for AMSoil and RP, I see good and bad things with their oil analyses, but the bottom line is whether or not you want to spend ~$35-40+ per oil change. IMO save money and do more frequent changes, because the cost with AMSoil is only justified if you keep that oil in there for 10, 15, or 20k miles. For Hawaii's driving conditions, I personally don't feel that 20k miles intervals are advisable.



0w-30 is more fluid in colder climates. Oil tends to "thicken" when it's cold, so lower viscosities (5w and 0w) will allow the oils to remain fluid. Although it needs to be pretty damn cold for 0w30, it's perfectly fine to use it in place of 5w30. 0w30 simply reflects a wider operating range: you can use it from -45-100+ degrees. 10w30 on the other hand should only be used from 20-100+ degrees.



Do you even know what the 5w-30 rating reflects? It denotes the cold and hot viscosities of the oil. It's perfectly fine to use 10w30 for example, in climates that never go below freezing. As mentioned earlier, 40 weight oils will also reduce oil consumption.



Judging by what I've seen, you know no more than they do.

lol dude honda recommends 5w30 for any type-s no matter the climate so plz dont make a fool of yourself i tink they have more knowlege than you since they made the engine

dont get me wrong Keith DC5 you know a lot of tings and i respect your opinion but plz dont start whit the oil ting cuz you are wrong
 
#9 ·
None because they are not jdm. :p

Do you drive an american car now? When did this happen? :eek:

I'm kidding, sorta. I run royal purple and it seems to work very well. I want to try amsoil or motul next. :)
 
#10 ·
Choice of motor oil is seems to be as personal a choice as brand of beer. I like Mobil 1 every 5,000 miles, Becks Dark every 24 hours.

10W-30 should be fine for a K20 in Hawaii.
 
#14 ·
Just to prove a point, the JDM Type-S (K20A3) and Type-R models (K20A) are able to use 40-weight oils. We have the same tolerances that they do, therefore 40-weights should be fine with our cars. Personally, I wouldn't use them unless I'm about to visit the track (what track?), or have some oil consumption issues.



http://www.honda.co.jp/manual/integra-type-r/2005/pdf/2005-integrar-spec.pdf
 
#18 · (Edited)
QUOTE=Keith DC5;15269731]You do not need 0w30 for Hawaii's climate. You can use 10w30, or if you're experiencing oil consumption, 10w40. In fact, 10w30 generally tends to be more shear stable than 0w30 oils, so that in itself is a bonus. [/B]


Your right, in general, that you don't need 0w30 in a hot climate, but amsoil 0w-30 is a different class of oil compared to their 5w30 or 10w30. Their series 2000 0w30 is a blend of PAO (group IV base stock) and polyolester (group V base stock); and their ASL series 5w30 and 10w30 uses just POA base stock. If you had to chose between asmoil 5w30 and 10w30, then you should chose 10w30.
 
#21 ·
Your right, in general, that you don't need 0w30 in a hot climate, but amsoil 0w-30 is a different class of oil compared to their 5w30 or 10w30. Their series 2000 0w30 is a blend of PAO (group IV base stock) and polyolester (group V base stock); and their ASL series 5w30 and 10w30 uses just POA base stock. If you had to chose between asmoil 5w30 and 10w30, then you should chose 10w30.
That's good to know (thank you for the info), but still doesn't justify paying 200% over a group 3 base stock, when most of us change our oils well before 5k miles.
 
#22 ·
I wasn't a big fan of Redline, and I had Royal Purple in my bike 2 oil changes ago. i ended up ordering AMSOIL from gtasynthetics.com and my bike runs so much nicer, less clattering and very smooth feeling. I actually just changed the oil in 2 of my cars with it last week and last night. You can probably order it still from GTA Synthetics to Hawaii, I am sure they have a warehouse there..
 
#27 ·
The problem is cost versus performance. If Brand A costs $25 and Brand B costs $50, which would you purchase if both of them performed similarly? Any quality synthetic can last 6k miles, and most (if not all) of them will perform similarly within that period.

AMSoil, Eneos, Castrol Edge, Mobil1 EP, etc contain additional additives (detergents, antioxidants, and dispersants) that allow for longer oil change intervals. AMSoil for example claims 25k mile intervals with their products. Consumers however, somehow warp this and turn it into a matter of "money = protection." That's a big N-O.

The single-most important factor is actually the oil change intervals - not the brand of oil that you use. If you're driving around Suzuka circuit that's one thing, but your grocery getter is not going to gain anything by using a $40-50 synthetic. In fact, I've worked on dozens of engines that have seen well over 150k miles, and the ones which showed exceptional measurements (all internal components) were using conventional oils of all things.
 
#28 ·
dont mean to bump this or intrude the region but if i can get more than 3k-4k out of oil before having to add a qrt or oil change then i believe in paying the extra 2-3 bucks a qrt because it simply saving money in the long wrong. ive tried RP and my k20 will tear thru that shit like its water. i need to add like 2 qrts at 3k or so then need a change at 4k after the 2 fresh qrts. mobil 1 seems to last but still i clocked 2700 and needed to add a qrt. im currently running valvoline for the 1st time because the place had a deal for 1st time customers for 52 bucks. that just a few bucks more from what it cost me to do it myself. next oil change i will buy amsoil or redline and if i see good consumption results i will continue to use.
 
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