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DIY: Power Steering Removal!!

156K views 262 replies 96 participants last post by  MPDC5_Will 
#1 · (Edited)
For us buff guys:lift:
Purple text is additional for removing the AC compressor.

Alright guys here it is, the power steering removal DIY. I will be showing you 2 routes: removal of PS only, and removal of PS and AC. Most pics borrowed from Karcepts. Here are the materials you will need:

EP3 Serpentine Belt (for removing PS only)
Prestone 505K7 Serpentine Belt (for removing both PS and AC)
EP3 Idle Pulley
EP3 Idle Pulley Bracket
EP3 Idle Pulley Bolt
EP3 Idle Pulley Bearing Cover
14mm combination wrench
16 mm combination wrench
a variety of sockets and a rachet
2 -6 AN hose fittings
16x1.5 metric to -6 AN adapter
14x1.5 metric to -6 AN adapter
3/8 fuel hose or -6 AN hose
pan to catch fluid

1. First,you will want to remove the power steering hoses and drain them into the oil pan. They are 10mm bolts



2. Using a 14mm and a 16mm combination wrench, unscrew the feed/return lines from the rack.


3. After that is done, you can begin removing all power steering lines/ reservoir. The lines are held in a few places; 2 on the firewall, and i think 1 under the reservoir/side of engine bay.
3. To fully remove the lines, removal of the header may be necessary. since i don't care to ever use my lines again, i just cut them.
4. Install your -6 AN hose fittings onto the adapters. you may want to wrap the the threads in teflon tape first. DO NOT WRAP TEFLON TAPE AROUND THE SIDE GOING INTO THE RACK.
5. Install your new adapted AN fittings onto the rack.
6. Using 3/8 fuel hose or -6 AN hose, create a loop between the fittings. no clamps are required.


7. Next, you will want to relieve tension on the belt by using a 14mm combination wrench on the auto tensioner. Pull towards the front of the car.


8. Unbolt the power steering pump. It is attached by 2 12mm bolts.


9. Unbolt the AC compressor (after freon has been removed). It is held on by 3 bolts.
 
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#2 · (Edited)
10. Take off the AC compressor bracket. It is held on by 2 bolts.


11. Install the EP3 idle pulley bracket onto the tensioner assembly.


12. Install the EP3 idle pulley onto the bracket.


13. With tension relieved from the tensioner, route the belt back on. Here are the correct routes.
P/S removed:

P/S and A/C removed:


14. Have an ice cold beer!
:drink:

Pics of the finished product:

]
 
#10 ·
correct. i'll take some pics of my engine bay today. it's alot harder compared to no power steering when you are still, but give it a little gas and it doesn't take too much muscle to turn the wheel. once you build up speed it gets way easier.
 
#12 ·
Nice write-up!

I had no P/S in my EK with a K20A for 2 years, and I must say that I am glad to have it back. I found the steering to be sloppy, despite new tie rod ends. Maybe it was a lack of fluid in the rack, or I needed new rack bushings. An actual manual rack would have been better, but the RSX doesn't have that option. I will also be very glad to have my A/C back in the next couple of weeks, after not having it for four years. I am not trying to discourage anyone here from removing their P/S and A/C, just make sure it is something you really want to do before you wish you didn't.
 
#21 · (Edited)
gay, why the hell would you remove it if your car is a daily driver? yes i know its heavy and useless for racing but WHYYYYY for daily driving? do you like turning the wheel more by using more effort?
 
#22 ·
because its not going to be a DD for much longer. plus it's not as bad as people make it sound. maybe if you were a fucking crybaby, then this mod would not be for you.
 
#24 ·
your ep3 bracket look differ than mine? wth
 
#29 ·
well the thing is they have to order the entire hose and pump system as one piece because thats how it comes... and they said the entire thing is all one piece connected and that they are going to have to remove a bunch of parts and thats why its going to cost so much.
 
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