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How to build a all motor base rsx

21K views 23 replies 11 participants last post by  Bandwell 
#1 ·
Hey guys im very new to the rsx fam i have a 2004 rsx base auto 120k miles maintained and all good had for about almost a year now ,so :giggity::thumbsup:i would like to know what is all the things i would need to make it a all motor rsx
 
#2 · (Edited)
It's like any other car. You get a bigger crank shaft, larger pistons and longer connecting rods for the bottom end. You then increase the intake of air via a cold air intake, larger throttle body and better intake manifold. In-between the intake and exhaust is the engine head where you upgrade the valvetrain and put in a more aggressive cam.

Some people opt for a VTEC killer set up where the lost motion assemblies and roller rockers are eliminated in place of a big cam. This is done for purpose built race cars where being below the VTEC engagement point is not ideal.

To take advantage of the increase air intake, the exhaust side needs to flow better as well so a good header and free flowing catback is required to take advantage of the aforementioned upgrades.

Consequences of this are requiring better injectors, motor mounts, a flashed ECU, a stiffer suspension to hook more power, a beefed up trans, a LSD, etc., the list could go on. As long as you know the basic formula, this forum will help you find the parts to plug in as far as what works and what doesn't.
 
#4 ·
Depends. The cheapest way is to do the intake and exhaust first. In it's entirety and depending on the quality of components you choose, the intake and exhaust could run you two grand. Once you start modifying the engine head and the bottom end, you are talking thousands due to machine work and the cost of rotating assemblies and miscellaneous parts that require upgrading as well.
 
#6 ·
That is very realistic. Go to parts:

Injen Cold Air Intake
Honda RBC Intake Manifold
Race Header (ClubRSX aka PLM, Buddy Club, Invidia, ASP, Toda, Spoon, J's, SSR)
2.5" Cat Back (Buddy Club, Invidia, Greddy, HKS)

You shouldn't need to bore your intake manifold or your TB or touch the head for your goals. You also don't need a 3" exhaust until you are going max effort NA.
 
#8 ·
No problem. Just a heads up, you will need to upgrade your motor mounts or put inserts into your current ones and you will also need an adapter to fit the RBC intake manifold to your stock throttle body. The Hondata intake manifold gasket is recommended to attach the IM to your head. Lastly, you will want a tune to take advantage of the increase air flow so you will need Kpro or Ktuners. Good luck.
 
#10 ·
Yes, the majority you can. Karcepts makes the RBC adapter as well as Hybrid Racing. I use Hasport motor mounts but Innovative, HardRace and Avid make good one's too depending on who your talking to and Energy Suspensions makes the inserts if you don't want to replace the mounts entirely. I can't imagine it being too hard to find someone out in LA to work on your car though.
 
#13 ·
redone, did you see that he said he has a base auto? I don't think it's possible to get anywhere near 200whp without doing at least the A2/Z1/Z3 cams/rockers swap in the A3 head VTEC pin swap

But yes, you should consider either using Hondata's base auto Reflash tune with basic intake and exhaust mods, or going the full Hondata Kpro route for full tuning and endless modification (like the pin swap above, even the RBC you need this) to get 200whp, etc.

Hondata is not just a performance chip -- it replaces your stock tune with something much better.
 
#16 · (Edited)
I come from single-cam engines, and there are people that have achieved well over 200whp with just 10.6:1 compression on an engine that makes 125-140 at the crank stock. So I think you can skip the A2 head stuff (if you were inclined), get bigger pistons (there are much hotter off-the-shelf pistons available for the A3 than an F22A) and go even further. The base RSX is far from worthless to mod, but I think it's the low stock compression that's keeping the engine from responding much to bolt-ons.

I was thinking of finding an A2/Z1/Z3 or K24A2 to build on the side for when my A3 finally dies, but for giggles I just checked Real Street for piston options. I think it'll be worth my time to see what an A3 can do with 12.x compression and stock VTEC arrangement, lol.
 
#19 ·
:confused: He's saying it likely will cost way more than $2k. You will likely easily spend $2000 just doing intake/header/exhaust/Kpro (& mounts if you so choose) before you even touch the motor, unless maybe you do the VTEC pin swap. If you do pistons, cams, valve springs, and even rods, boring, stroking, heads P&P, that is :rain:
 
#20 ·
:confused: He's saying it likely will cost way more than $2k. You will likely easily spend $2000 just doing intake/header/exhaust/Kpro (& mounts if you so choose) before you even touch the motor, unless maybe you do the VTEC pin swap. If you do pistons, cams, valve springs, and even rods, boring, stroking, heads P&P, that is :rain:
I'd say even more than that. Kpro alone is almost $700, isn't it?

For all new forum members (that own base autos) reading this, please take note: You will be nowhere near 200whp with bolt ons, even with the RBC and a tune. Maybe in the range of 145, if you're lucky.
 
#21 ·
rsx k24a2 need insight .

hey have a question my rsx is kpro with a k24a swap, it usually takes off hard HOWEVER yesterday I was at a red light and over revved , in first and the gear was sticking. I heard a ringing noise In the engine that I can only describe as light metal ringing , moreover the car wont go anymore its acting like a civic now no power going 60 in 3rd when it should be 80 in 3rd what could cause this loss in engine power
 
#22 ·
hey have a question my rsx is kpro with a k24a swap, it usually takes off hard HOWEVER yesterday I was at a red light and over revved , in first and the gear was sticking. I heard a ringing noise In the engine that I can only describe as light metal ringing , moreover the car wont go anymore its acting like a civic now no power going 60 in 3rd when it should be 80 in 3rd what could cause this loss in engine power
Wrong place for this but might have spun a rod bearing, stop driving it immediately. Get it checked out. Drop the oil to see if any metal pieces in it, you best bet is dropping entire oil pan
 
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