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Old 11-28-2002, 05:31 PM   #1
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How to install (and wire) new components

There's a good walkthrough for everything else, so I figured I'd share my experience with everyone.
Exposition:
I wanted good components in the front so I bought a set of Infinity Kappa 60.5cs components (way better sound than the factory speakers, at a decent price). I also wanted better wire. I used 16g monster cables.
You can only put one picture in a post, so I did lots of posts, enjoy.

DISCLAIMER: Don't do this if you can't handle it. I'm not responsible if you break your car.
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Old 11-28-2002, 05:36 PM   #2
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Did you take pics of cutting the door and wiring it up and all that? If you did, FIGURE OUT A WAY TO POST THEM! I'm anxious to see some good pics of instaling new speakers.
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Old 11-28-2002, 05:40 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally posted by jack
Did you take pics of cutting the door and wiring it up and all that? If you did, FIGURE OUT A WAY TO POST THEM! I'm anxious to see some good pics of instaling new speakers.
I'm getting around to it.
I forgot to scale the pics down, so I was trying to attach 500k 1280x960 pics.
Go eat some turkey and check back in a few.
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Old 11-28-2002, 05:41 PM   #4
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i would also be interested in seeing pics of the front door panel removed and cutting...see if you can host it somewhere and provide a link
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Old 11-28-2002, 05:43 PM   #5
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Alright, thanks a lot. I'm leaving for a family friend's house in about 15 minutes for dessert, already ate my turkey! I'm expecting these pics to be up when I return. Don't really know what time that'll be, but probbaly some time around 9 (central time), maybe later.
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Old 11-28-2002, 06:01 PM   #6
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First thing I did was wire the tweets.
Pop the tweet out using a flathead in the notch on the side of the tweet.
Then disconnect the wiring harness clip and stuff it back in the hole.
I left all factory wiring in place, so when I sell it I can reinstall the bose system without a hitch.
Next drop your quality wire through the hole, following the path of the factory wire. I couldn't get a good pic of this cuz of the windshield.
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Old 11-28-2002, 06:13 PM   #7
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Remove the glove box and kick panel behind it.
(Probably should do this first, but I forgot to put it at the top).
There are three plastic snaps holding the kick panel in place. Push something slender in to the small button in the middle to pop them off. The panel has its own arrow shaped notch in the far right corner, just tug and it comes out.

To put them back in later, you have to push the center button back so it sticks out from the 'head' end, stick it in the hole, then push the button flush with the head.

Oh yeah...the glove box...when the panel is off, just unscrew the screws at the bottom corners of the glove box, and pull it up and out.
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Old 11-28-2002, 06:21 PM   #8
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Now you can pull the wire through. I took the pic after putting the glove box back. You can see and pull the wire much easier with it out.
While you're down there, detach the wiring harness for the door wires. The harness controls the door midrange, power locks, and power windows. I accidentally broke one and lost power locking in that door. Be careful.
Oh and there's a yellow wiring harness down there. NEVER DETACH A YELLOW HARNESS!! They control the airbags and might go off from what I've read here.

The kick panel at the bottom of the pic is a good place to hide a crossover. It's centrally located and has just enough room to make a tight fit.
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Old 11-28-2002, 06:33 PM   #9
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Take the door panel and bose speaker out.
Follow this howto:
http://performance.clubrsx.com/speaker.html
(Scroll down to the front section).
Keep the window down while you take the panel off, then put it back up before you disconnect the window wires.
After you reattach the window wires, put the window back down for the rest of it. It makes getting the panel on/off much easier.

Nothing says quality audio like paper cone speakers.
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Old 11-28-2002, 06:37 PM   #10
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Next take the grommet out. It's easier if you disconnect the bolt holding the door on (you can open the door wider).
Pull the grommet out from the body first, and pull the wiring harness through, then pull it out of the door. Depending on the gauge of your wire, you might need to widen the hole in the grommet.
Hold the grommet nice and straight and feed the wire thru.
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Old 11-28-2002, 06:48 PM   #11
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On the driver's side, pop out the tweet and drop a wire through.
Take off the kick panel and lower dash panels so you can pull the wire through easily. This side is a little harder, cuz of all the steering and dash display stuff blocking your view.
(See this howto for detail on getting those panels off.)

You have to disconnect two wire blocks and push them out with the grommet.
Pop the grommet out the same way and run the wire through.
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Old 11-28-2002, 07:01 PM   #12
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Awesome guide!


This should be in the FAQ. Thanks so much man, I understand a lot better what I need to do now.
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Old 11-28-2002, 07:01 PM   #13
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Cutting.
Use the spacer rings that came with your mids to mark the door. (Or just buy some 5.25" speakers...I wish I had...) Play around with the position. I was able to limit it to two short cuts at the lower sides. If you don't cut into the big rectangular holes at the bottom, you'll be able to put the factory crap back in easily.
Before cutting, push the little clip nubs through the door. Otherwise you'll end up cutting through the rubber condiut around the wire (it smells pretty bad!). And you might damage the existing wires.
I'd also suggest putting something down on the sill, the floor board, and on the side of the dash. I was shooting some big sparks and metal dust everywhere.
I did the passenger door with my 15k RPM cordless dremel. It took a LONG time, especially since I had to recharge it multiple times.
I did the driver door with my 5-35k RPM A/C dremel. Much faster
No pics of the cutting, since I needed my hands.
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Old 11-28-2002, 07:04 PM   #14
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After the cut.
Unfortunately, I did the cut with a dremel cutting disk, which doesn't do the smoothest curves. But it's fast!
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Old 11-28-2002, 07:12 PM   #15
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At this point you'll want some spacers. I used 0.5" particle board. MDF board that you have left over from a sub box works great too.
Use the spacers that came with your speakers to draw two concentric circles.
It's a good idea to make the outer circle bigger than the spacer, so you have some place to put a screw through it into the door.
I attached my speakers with wood screws, and had cut two wings off to the sides to attach it to the door.
And no, I didn't take wood shop.

If you have a jigsaw, you can get a nice clean cut. I did mine with the dremel's rotary wood bit, so they're jagged and uneven. But they're hidden in the doors and they work, so good enough.
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Old 11-28-2002, 07:19 PM   #16
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lol nice spacer buddy

Hmm I can cut that no prob.. but rust, etc. has me worried.. Maybe I should hit up a friend who owns a bodyshop to do the work for me lol.
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Old 11-28-2002, 07:30 PM   #17
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Here are the tools I used.
My dremel with the AlO grinding bit: used to smooth the cut metal edges.
The wood rotary cutting bit: used to cut out the spacers. It's hard to control a rotary cutting bit, it has a strong pull to the left. So stop making fun of my spacers!
The emory cutting disks: used to cut the metal. You can buy fiberglass ones that will last longer. The emory ones tend to wear down or snap (WEAR YOUR GOGGLES!), but they come with the dremel, so I used them.

Oh...and at the top is part of the spacer I used to draw my circles.
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Old 11-28-2002, 07:34 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally posted by Kremlin
lol nice spacer buddy

Hmm I can cut that no prob.. but rust, etc. has me worried.. Maybe I should hit up a friend who owns a bodyshop to do the work for me lol.
I might have jagged spacers, but at least I don't have bose speakers.
If you're worried about rust, just seal it when you're done. Or move out to the desert. We've never heard of rust out here. Just sandblasted paint jobs, sun damage, and over heating.
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Old 11-28-2002, 07:42 PM   #19
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Bose speakers? Joke's on you, I have a base model!!! Oh, wait...

How does it sound? It looks whoopass, and you did a great job Where did you stick the crossovers?

I drive in snow, rain, and heavily salted roads, so the risk of rust makes me very nervous about cutting... Maybe I'll get a set of 5 1/4"s.
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Old 11-28-2002, 07:51 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally posted by Kremlin
Bose speakers? Joke's on you, I have a base model!!! Oh, wait...

How does it sound? It looks whoopass, and you did a great job Where did you stick the crossovers?

I drive in snow, rain, and heavily salted roads, so the risk of rust makes me very nervous about cutting... Maybe I'll get a set of 5 1/4"s.
I haven't tuned it yet, but it sounds pretty good. The tweets are really loud reflecting off the glass, so I need to play with the EQs.

Where do they salt snow? In Flagstaff (the only city in AZ that sees significant snow), they use ash on the snow. Maybe you should suggest that at your next town/city meeting.
If you seal the bare metal after the cut, you'll be just as safe. I'd talk to your body shop friend, because he probably has better tools for the job...or just get 5.25s.
I put the right crossover in the kick panel, and the left one in the dash just behind the steering wheel. I still need to get some velcro to secure the left one better.
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Old 11-28-2002, 07:55 PM   #21
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Hehehe ash wouldn't cut it here. They litter the roads with tons of coarse gravel and salt, and it still barely gets the job done sometimes.

Thanks again, I'll look into my options again. Your guide is really great and helped me a lot, I think it should be in the FAQ for sure.
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Old 11-28-2002, 07:58 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally posted by Kremlin
Hehehe ash wouldn't cut it here. They litter the roads with tons of coarse gravel and salt, and it still barely gets the job done sometimes.

Thanks again, I'll look into my options again. Your guide is really great and helped me a lot, I think it should be in the FAQ for sure.
Alberta's probably a great place to go for a ski vacation, but you'd have to be crazy to live there.
It got down to 45F last night here. Too cold!
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Old 11-28-2002, 08:11 PM   #23
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If worried about rust, just pick up a can of primer and spray the metal after you cut it. Problem solved, and you don't have to sacrifice the 6.5" for 5.25"s.

What type of tweeter does that set use? A silk dome would probably be fine in the dash, but any other material would be too harsh for me. I am installing mine in the kick panels.
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Old 11-28-2002, 08:14 PM   #24
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By the way, if you used a 3/4" spacer instead of a 1/2", do you think cutting would still have been necessary?
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Old 11-28-2002, 08:31 PM   #25
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Thanks a lot for the pics. I'm still at our friends' house, but I'll check them out once I get home.
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