K20a3 To K20a2 crankshaft swap

[Cjones5050]

Hey I have a quick question,

Building a turbo K20a3 obviously. Would I be better off balancing the beefy ass rods, pistons, and wrist pins to my stock a3 crankshaft ( since I know it's not balanced from the factory ) or just getting a good used a2 crank and rods, pistons, and pins instead?

I know the bottom end internals are different but I'm just asking for a better durability standpoint at higher RPM's.

Any help would be loved!

[remyrounds]

What about buying a k24a1-a2 for less than building that swap and making more power? They drop in and can take 400+ WHP

[Cjones5050]

Originally Posted by remyrounds

What about buying a k24a1-a2 for less than building that swap and making more power? They drop in and can take 400+ WHP

Are you talking about buying the entire a2 engine? Because after I posted this last night, I did even MORE research. And I'm thinking about just spending the extra money up front for the a2 anyway. 🏻

[Cjones5050]

Originally Posted by remyrounds

What about buying a k24a1-a2 for less than building that swap and making more power? They drop in and can take 400+ WHP

Also I just realized you said K24. My bad. I think I might just wanna stick with the 20. I don't have a reason. I hear really good stuff about both. Which block has thicker cylinder walls would be the better question considering I'm going turbo. ( I'm trying to avoid sleeving due to cost )

[remyrounds]

Originally Posted by Cjones5050

Also I just realized you said K24. My bad. I think I might just wanna stick with the 20. I don't have a reason. I hear really good stuff about both. Which block has thicker cylinder walls would be the better question considering I'm going turbo. ( I'm trying to avoid sleeving due to cost )

I am saying you would save a ton of money if you just bought an entire k24a1 engine and boosted that. I have a friend that was at 450 WHP on a stock engine for years. You can get those engines for $600

[Cjones5050]

[QUOTE=remyrounds;55017705]

I definitely see your point and literally just researched those 24's. They seem badass. Good numbers. Etc. But I'm literally gonna build the engine from top to bottom anyway with either choice I make. I have to spank my father's '73 Nova with a BUILT 350.
The only thing I worry about with the k24 is the higher torque. Wheel spin is gonna be a bitch. I know it's gonna happen with either boosted/built engine. But I'd rather have a lower torque ratio to horsepower. I know there are ways around it, ( slicks and suspension setups) but I feel my knowledge is better based on the K20's than 24's. I know I sound dumb.Lol. I'm just nervous about buying a 24. Granted the $600 is better than $1,000-$1,400 price difference.

[Cjones5050]

Originally Posted by remyrounds

What about buying a k24a1-a2 for less than building that swap and making more power? They drop in and can take 400+ WHP

Still figuring out how to work this forum 🙄

[dustyboner]

When i had ERL build my homies a3 and swap to an a2 crank it ended up being around $5600 with extras.

Erl super deck w/ darton sleeves
New k20a2 crank
Calico coated ACL race bearings
Je 86.5mm 9.0:1 pistons with skirt and tops coated
Manley turbo tuff rods
Erl s2k oil pump with chain and tensioner
K24 oil pan

For the top end, got a used k20a2 head, added 1mm oversized valves and dual valve springs. Not sure what that cost cause my homie took care of all that.
All together without the turbo parts it had to be close to $9k
Turbo stuff was around another $5k

Your better off going with a setup like i had for years. Stock k20a2 head on a stock k24a4 block with a k20a2 oil pump. I was making a little over 400hp on 9.5psi.
With a good tune it will handle 400-450hp no problem, the tranny not so much. Just dont rev it too high or run too much cam angle. Not sure what the limit for those are but i set my rev limit to 7200rpms (shifted at 7k) and never set the vtc over 30. I got around 40,000 miles (of abuse) on the motor but then the bolts for the turbo manifold loosened up and melted the wires on the Vtec assembly. It caused the vtec to stay engauged. When it happened i tried to make it home and drove it like an old lady which is the opposite of what i should of done. If i would have kept the rpms high it would of had enough oil pressure to not completly fuck up the motor.

[Cjones5050]

Originally Posted by dustyboner

When i had ERL build my homies a3 and swap to an a2 crank it ended up being around $5600 with extras.

Erl super deck w/ darton sleeves
New k20a2 crank
Calico coated ACL race bearings
Je 86.5mm 9.0:1 pistons with skirt and tops coated
Manley turbo tuff rods
Erl s2k oil pump with chain and tensioner
K24 oil pan

For the top end, got a used k20a2 head, added 1mm oversized valves and dual valve springs. Not sure what that cost cause my homie took care of all that.
All together without the turbo parts it had to be close to $9k
Turbo stuff was around another $5k

Your better off going with a setup like i had for years. Stock k20a2 head on a stock k24a4 block with a k20a2 oil pump. I was making a little over 400hp on 9.5psi.
With a good tune it will handle 400-450hp no problem, the tranny not so much. Just dont rev it too high or run too much cam angle. Not sure what the limit for those are but i set my rev limit to 7200rpms (shifted at 7k) and never set the vtc over 30. I got around 40,000 miles (of abuse) on the motor but then the bolts for the turbo manifold loosened up and melted the wires on the Vtec assembly. It caused the vtec to stay engauged. When it happened i tried to make it home and drove it like an old lady which is the opposite of what i should of done. If i would have kept the rpms high it would of had enough oil pressure to not completly fuck up the motor.

Damn bro I really appreciate all that info!!!! I'm looking into that as we speak!!