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Old 09-03-2017, 01:03 PM   #801
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Anyone looking to sell their COMPLETE supercharger ?!
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Old 09-04-2017, 09:56 PM   #802
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My tein street advance z coilovers came in and I finally had a chance to install them today. Install went pretty smooth. My stock struts were shot. I have to say I really enjoy the ride quality of these coilovers, they're not bouncy, take bumps well and overall give the car a more solid direct feel. I don't want to give a 100% verdict on them yet but so far so good. Especially for the price.
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Old 09-05-2017, 06:46 AM   #803
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Hey guys, just figured I would give everyone an update on how my tuning session went at IMW on Friday. First off I'd like to say Derek takes care of you like a friend not a client, great customer service.

Needless to say things did not go very well. Immediately we noticed that the boost pressure was running about 3 PSI higher then expected for my setup (2.95BP, 6.37CP, aftercooler, Merc inlet, 3.5" intake & 74mm TB, etc.) and this was even more evident on full throttle pulls. We were seeing roughly 17 PSI vs the expected 13.5-14 PSI. On the third or fourth full pull (to 8,400) the blower let go. The outer edge of rotor pack began to make contact with the casing. The blower was virtually brand new with less than 1,500 miles and I just had it ported by Jon Bond to be proactive and not have any heating issues. The blower casing was cool to the touch and the IATs low. I contacted Jon Bond and will be sending the blower back in for inspection, however I am not very hopeful. Ended up making 341/Don't recall the torque and didn't get a chance to run the meth injection. After a $600 tow bill I got the car home, pulled the blower and I am back to stock for the time being. Just figured I'd update everyone.




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Old 09-05-2017, 07:03 AM   #804
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Anyone looking to sell their COMPLETE supercharger ?!
FS would be your best option to look or post a WTB thread.

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My tein street advance z coilovers came in and I finally had a chance to install them today. Install went pretty smooth. My stock struts were shot. I have to say I really enjoy the ride quality of these coilovers, they're not bouncy, take bumps well and overall give the car a more solid direct feel. I don't want to give a 100% verdict on them yet but so far so good. Especially for the price.
keep us posted! Glad to see it looks like a great, budget friendly upgrade I may consider in the future.

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Hey guys, just figured I would give everyone an update on how my tuning session went at IMW on Friday. First off I'd like to say Derek takes care of you like a friend not a client, great customer service.

Needless to say things did not go very well. Immediately we noticed that the boost pressure was running about 3 PSI higher then expected for my setup (2.95BP, 6.37CP, aftercooler, Merc inlet, 3.5" intake & 74mm TB, etc.) and this was even more evident on full throttle pulls. We were seeing roughly 17 PSI vs the expected 13.5-14 PSI. On the third or fourth full pull (to 8,400) the blower let go. The outer edge of rotor pack began to make contact with the casing. The blower was virtually brand new with less than 1,500 miles and I just had it ported by Jon Bond to be proactive and not have any heating issues. The blower casing was cool to the touch and the IATs low. I contacted Jon Bond and will be sending the blower back in for inspection, however I am not very hopeful. Ended up making 341/Don't recall the torque and didn't get a chance to run the meth injection. After a $600 tow bill I got the car home, pulled the blower and I am back to stock for the time being. Just figured I'd update everyone.



So sorry to read this man... Overall, it looks like your setup made great power, just something was off. Hopefully, Jon Bond comes through for ya. Based on your pulley setup, you were spinning the blower just above 18k and that doesn't seem too excessive. I'd research to see if anyone else encountered similar issues after getting their blower serviced.
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Old 09-07-2017, 06:35 AM   #805
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Hey guys I am looking for a little input. As you know I had to pull my SC and have it sent out to be rebuilt. At the same time I had a broken valve cover bolt (front right if looking at the motor). I replaced it and torqued it to spec. Afterwards I noticed a valve train noise that can be heard (better) in the second part of the video (sorry video quality kind of blows). The noise seems to be coming directly from below where the bolt was replaced. I then pulled the VC and moved the bolt to another position thinking that may be the issue. No such luck as the noise is still there. I personally do not believe it sounds like a bent valve as it is more of chatter type of noise rather than a knock. I also didn't see anything out of place pertaining to the valve train unless I am missing something obvious.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eK1-U56-J2o

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Old 09-07-2017, 08:07 PM   #806
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Sup bro, I assume you didn't notice this noise before with the blower on. Only think I can think of is when was the last time you did a valve adjustment? May be worth checking them
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Old 09-07-2017, 08:20 PM   #807
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Sup bro, I assume you didn't notice this noise before with the blower on. Only think I can think of is when was the last time you did a valve adjustment? May be worth checking them
No def wasn't there with the SC on. That's the end where the supercharger let go and the rotor pack made contact with the casing. Just hope no debris got into the motor. I did the lash 20K ago but I'll check it again. Thanks for the suggestion
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Old 09-07-2017, 08:45 PM   #808
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No def wasn't there with the SC on. That's the end where the supercharger let go and the rotor pack made contact with the casing. Just hope no debris got into the motor. I did the lash 20K ago but I'll check it again. Thanks for the suggestion
Yea, worth just double checking.... I didn't want to say it, bit I hope no debris from the blower entered the motor. Another thing I saw was chain slapping the valve cover had a similar noise.
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Old 09-08-2017, 07:51 AM   #809
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Yea, worth just double checking.... I didn't want to say it, bit I hope no debris from the blower entered the motor. Another thing I saw was chain slapping the valve cover had a similar noise.
Ya, I'll do a compression and leak down test this weekend. If it's low on 4 I guess I'll have my answer
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Old 09-08-2017, 09:12 PM   #810
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Ya, I'll do a compression and leak down test this weekend. If it's low on 4 I guess I'll have my answer
Did a compression test. 145,000 on motor

Dry
1: 205
2: 185
3: 195
4: 200

Pretty happy with the results, leak down test is up next just to cover all bases.
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Old 09-08-2017, 10:00 PM   #811
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That's pretty good compression, did mine recently with 165k supercharged since 80k and mine was 175ish across the board. There's not too much deviation there. Did you get a chance to check valve lash for that noise?
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Old 09-12-2017, 12:13 PM   #812
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That's pretty good compression, did mine recently with 165k supercharged since 80k and mine was 175ish across the board. There's not too much deviation there. Did you get a chance to check valve lash for that noise?
Yes, I checked the valve lash, they are all within spec. There is no deviation on the intake valve on cylinder 4 where the noise is coming from.

I also had a chance to complete a leak down test. There is between a 23-25% loss on all of the cylinders. The air is coming out of the valve cover indicating worn piston rings. This doesn't surprise me since my motor consumes a decent amount of oil.

I think I covered all the bases. The motor doesn't seem to have been impacted from the blower letting go. As for the noise, not really sure. Maybe it is just one of those things...

The only other thing I noticed was when cylinder 1 was at the top of it's stroke the cam gear marks are not perfectly lined up (off one tooth). However, the marks do line up right when the piston starts to travel down. I am not 100% sure at what point they should be lined up, at the top of the stroke or when the piston starts to make it's descent. The image below is when the piston is at the top of the stroke.


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Old 09-13-2017, 12:46 PM   #813
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Holy huge pics Batman!

So my A/F sensor crapped out on me. I was about to go get a new Denso when I remembered that some of you guys are running a different wideband sensor. What do you all recommend?
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Old 09-13-2017, 07:59 PM   #814
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AEM Wideband Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge/Controller with its O2 Sensor wired into the ECU (Hondata KPro4) as the primary sensory.

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Old 09-14-2017, 06:16 AM   #815
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Holy huge pics Batman!

So my A/F sensor crapped out on me. I was about to go get a new Denso when I remembered that some of you guys are running a different wideband sensor. What do you all recommend?
No idea why the pics are so big ha. It is just the default setting from Imugr.....
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Old 09-14-2017, 06:28 PM   #816
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AEM Wideband Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge/Controller with its O2 Sensor wired into the ECU (Hondata KPro4) as the primary sensory.
Did you figure out how to do this on your own? I've done some searching around and there's very little info on how to make this work, or even what the benefit is. I did read that some prefer the Innovate A/F sensors but there's also a fair amount of people who have a hard time with it.

I do have Kpro4.
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Old 09-14-2017, 09:14 PM   #817
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It was a prerequisite for my tune. Because of the limited range of stock sensor unit, my tuner said it would be a waste of his time if i didnít. It's not hard to do and I could write up a step by step procedure when you get ready to convert. Check out my garage and you can see how I mounted the gauge. Perfect placement and its looks almost stock.
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Old 09-15-2017, 01:01 PM   #818
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It was a prerequisite for my tune. Because of the limited range of stock sensor unit, my tuner said it would be a waste of his time if i didnít. It's not hard to do and I could write up a step by step procedure when you get ready to convert. Check out my garage and you can see how I mounted the gauge. Perfect placement and its looks almost stock.
Cool, I have several questions.

The gauge isn't necessary, right? You could just plug the new A/F sensor straight into Kpro4 and it'll work, so long as you've configured your .kal correctly, right?

But then if I want to use a gauge, must you use the AEM gauge with the AEM sensor? Or could it be a different brand gauge with the AEM sensor? I ask because I have a 3-gauge single DIN panel I want to mount under my stereo head unit, but it only accommodates smaller diameter gauges.

BTW, doesn't that gauge pod on your steering column block your view of the tach/speedo somewhat?

When wiring the new A/F sensor, specifically how does it connect to the Kpro4? I've read that there's both a digital and an analog connection to the Kpro. Which one allows the car to still run in closed loop? Is digital a better connection than analog?

What steps are required to set up the new sensor in Kpro4? From what I've read, I get the impression that there's a proper sequence, and it's different if you do an analog connection or digital connection, but nothing more specific than that.

What did you do with the old stock A/F sensor connector at the car's wiring harness? Just let it hang there? What if I cut off a male end of an old stock sensor just to plug and protect the female end, would that cause an issue?

How difficult would it be to go back to stock after setting all this up?
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Old 09-16-2017, 11:06 PM   #819
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It's been a long day for me - doing a complete brake job and replacing some worn suspension parts on one of my cars. Going to relax for the rest of evening but I will answer some of your questions first, and I hope to provide you with more details tomorrow.

The gauge isn't necessary, right? You could just plug the new A/F sensor straight into Kpro4 and it'll work, so long as you've configured your .kal correctly, right? Wrong, the gauge is also the wide band system’s controller as well.

But then if I want to use a gauge, must you use the AEM gauge with the AEM sensor? Or could it be a different brand gauge with the AEM sensor? I ask because I have a 3-gauge single DIN panel I want to mount under my stereo head unit, but it only accommodates smaller diameter gauges. Yes. you must use the gauge and the sensor as a set. The unit works well, is cost effective, and is easy to setup - no issues yet. I get a lot of compliments on the looks of the gauge and how it is installed.


BTW, doesn't that gauge pod on your steering column block your view of the tach/speedo somewhat? Only the tach at 8500 rpm and above - will post picture tomorrow based on the driver's view . My car’s theme is a sleeper. The “A” pillar pod is a dead giveaway that it's been modify.

When wiring the new A/F sensor, specifically how does it connect to the Kpro4? I've read that there's both a digital and an analog connection to the Kpro. Which one allows the car to still run in closed loop? Is digital a better connection than analog? You will start first by utilizing one of the two pigtails that came with Kpro4 - more details tomorrow. (note: when using Kpro4 the secondary O2 sensor is eliminated)

What steps are required to set up the new sensor in Kpro4? From what I've read, I get the impression that there's a proper sequence, and it's different if you do an analog connection or digital connection, but nothing more specific than that. Its pretty easy to install - more details tomorrow.

What did you do with the old stock A/F sensor connector at the car's wiring harness? Just let it hang there? What if I cut off a male end of an old stock sensor just to plug and protect the female end, would that cause an issue? I just wrapped mine up with electrical tape to keep any water out. Using a old male half of the plug is a better idea as long as you trim its wires down close to its housing to avoid the wires from making contact with each other or the car.

How difficult would it be to go back to stock after setting all this up? Not hard at all. Just disconnect AEM hardware wires from the Kpro4 ECU, remove the AEM sensor from the exhaust system and reinstall the OEM unit, remove the gauge pod which is held in place with only double sided tape. Last thing to do is reset the KManager setting back to the OEM sensor type.

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Old 09-18-2017, 02:40 PM   #820
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Afternoon gents


Crazy past couple of weeks. Dealt with Hurricane Irma and made it out with minimal damage thankfully. Worst part was no power and running water for 2 days. Other than that, fam is good and have to fix cosmetic damage at my house, Mazda3 has wet floors, and my rental lost a fence.

On top of this, just completed an interview at work for a potential promotion. Did well, but kicking myself now knowing that I could have said/sold myself more . All in all, I'll be in the running, just hoped I did enough to get it.

RSX doing well... Haven't kept up w/ mileage tracking due to these hurricanes, but I did tinker with DIY hood risers (e.g. 3/8"). Been running for almost a month with it and it seems to help. The look has grown on me... OCD used to kick in with it not being aligned.
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Old 09-18-2017, 05:24 PM   #821
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It's been a long day for me - doing a complete brake job and replacing some worn suspension parts on one of my cars. Going to relax for the rest of evening but I will answer some of your questions first, and I hope to provide you with more details tomorrow.

The gauge isn't necessary, right? You could just plug the new A/F sensor straight into Kpro4 and it'll work, so long as you've configured your .kal correctly, right? Wrong, the gauge is also the wide band systemís controller as well.

But then if I want to use a gauge, must you use the AEM gauge with the AEM sensor? Or could it be a different brand gauge with the AEM sensor? I ask because I have a 3-gauge single DIN panel I want to mount under my stereo head unit, but it only accommodates smaller diameter gauges. Yes. you must use the gauge and the sensor as a set. The unit works well, is cost effective, and is easy to setup - no issues yet. I get a lot of compliments on the looks of the gauge and how it is installed.


BTW, doesn't that gauge pod on your steering column block your view of the tach/speedo somewhat? Only the tach at 8500 rpm and above - will post picture tomorrow based on the driver's view . My carís theme is a sleeper. The ďAĒ pillar pod is a dead giveaway that it's been modify.

When wiring the new A/F sensor, specifically how does it connect to the Kpro4? I've read that there's both a digital and an analog connection to the Kpro. Which one allows the car to still run in closed loop? Is digital a better connection than analog? You will start first by utilizing one of the two pigtails that came with Kpro4 - more details tomorrow. (note: when using Kpro4 the secondary O2 sensor is eliminated)

What steps are required to set up the new sensor in Kpro4? From what I've read, I get the impression that there's a proper sequence, and it's different if you do an analog connection or digital connection, but nothing more specific than that. Its pretty easy to install - more details tomorrow.

What did you do with the old stock A/F sensor connector at the car's wiring harness? Just let it hang there? What if I cut off a male end of an old stock sensor just to plug and protect the female end, would that cause an issue? I just wrapped mine up with electrical tape to keep any water out. Using a old male half of the plug is a better idea as long as you trim its wires down close to its housing to avoid the wires from making contact with each other or the car.

How difficult would it be to go back to stock after setting all this up? Not hard at all. Just disconnect AEM hardware wires from the Kpro4 ECU, remove the AEM sensor from the exhaust system and reinstall the OEM unit, remove the gauge pod which is held in place with only double sided tape. Last thing to do is reset the KManager setting back to the OEM sensor type.
Thanks! That's a great start. Big help!

Totally agree about the A pillar pod setup. I'm trying to avoid it! So it doesn't block the speedo at all?
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Old 09-18-2017, 05:29 PM   #822
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Afternoon gents

Crazy past couple of weeks. Dealt with Hurricane Irma and made it out with minimal damage thankfully. Worst part was no power and running water for 2 days. Other than that, fam is good and have to fix cosmetic damage at my house, Mazda3 has wet floors, and my rental lost a fence.

On top of this, just completed an interview at work for a potential promotion. Did well, but kicking myself now knowing that I could have said/sold myself more . All in all, I'll be in the running, just hoped I did enough to get it.

RSX doing well... Haven't kept up w/ mileage tracking due to these hurricanes, but I did tinker with DIY hood risers (e.g. 3/8"). Been running for almost a month with it and it seems to help. The look has grown on me... OCD used to kick in with it not being aligned.
Hey nats, good to hear from you. I was wondering if you made it through ok. You're probably the only person I sort of know in that area. Glad that hurricane didn't hit you too hard.
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Old 09-18-2017, 08:32 PM   #823
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^ Thank you Sir

Definitely can be nerve racking, but faired well
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Old 09-18-2017, 09:38 PM   #824
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Originally Posted by nats007 View Post
Afternoon gents


Crazy past couple of weeks. Dealt with Hurricane Irma and made it out with minimal damage thankfully. Worst part was no power and running water for 2 days. Other than that, fam is good and have to fix cosmetic damage at my house, Mazda3 has wet floors, and my rental lost a fence.

On top of this, just completed an interview at work for a potential promotion. Did well, but kicking myself now knowing that I could have said/sold myself more . All in all, I'll be in the running, just hoped I did enough to get it.

RSX doing well... Haven't kept up w/ mileage tracking due to these hurricanes, but I did tinker with DIY hood risers (e.g. 3/8"). Been running for almost a month with it and it seems to help. The look has grown on me... OCD used to kick in with it not being aligned.
Glad to hear you survived hurricane with only minimum damage. Looks like there's another one heading on the same path. Job interviews - can be a roller coaster ride with one's mind.



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Thanks! That's a great start. Big help!

Totally agree about the A pillar pod setup. I'm trying to avoid it! So it doesn't block the speedo at all?
Late night at work tonight. didn't get home until about 8:00 PM. Column pod doesn't block the speedo at all - just the tach at 8500 rpm and above. Will post picture tomorrow.
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Old 09-20-2017, 07:26 PM   #825
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Sorry for the delay. Photos of the A/F ratio gauge as I promise (drivers view). You can actually see the 900 rpm mark on the tach




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