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Old 04-25-2005, 12:06 PM   #1
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Installation guides for anything and everything turbo related

I decided i'd make a thread with helpful install guides from members of this site as well as outside companies. I'm leaving this thread locked so it won't get cluttered up, but if you have an install guide you would like included here (please make sure it has pictures), just PM me and so long as it is a good guide, I will put it in here. Also, if any of the pictures go down or any of the links are bad, please PM me and let me know so i can fix them. At the bottom of each post, I have a link to the original thread, just in case you wanted to read reviews or responses.

This will take time to compile everything together so i'm just starting small for now.

Comprehensive Full-Race install guide.

Greddy Catch Can Install Instructions

Oil Pan Install Instructions

Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump Install Instructions: Part 1 Part 2

Changing the actuator to change boost levels on the Greddy kit


Idle Air Control Valve Cleaning Guide Instructions by soccerman002

Greddy Turbo Kit Install Instructions: Part 1 Part 2 Part 3

Greddy Turbo Kit Install Instructions by Ironraven
Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4
Part 5
Part 6
Part 7
Part 8
Part 9
Part 10
Part 11
Part 12
Part 13
Part 14

Greddy Intercooler Install Instructions

Manually Check Your OBD2 Codes Without a Scan Tool

Top 15 Dyno Thread, its just started so give it time to build

Bosch pump install, also links to another thread which should be helpful

GM parts (boost control and selenoid)

Revhard turbo kit

RBC thread

15 inch wheels for slicks

A/C line relocation

might be a repost of the link, but Walbro install

K-pro boost control install

high HP cars, i can update the thread if needed.

Ask your greddy questions here or find your answers!

Ask your greddy questions here or find your answers #2

Full-Race install thread

Meth Injection Q&A

Motor Mounts, not necessarily turbo related but people tend to ask whats best for the F/I app

Resistor Box Install Thread

List of known tuners in the US

Oil Block adapter for oil feed line

Greddy Upgrade DIY install thread

Fuel System Setup, to help you decide on what you need or what to do

We have been asked to prune our sticky section down to two threads, therefore, instead of having several individual threads, as was done by previous moderators, you can find the links to the previous stickies here.

Enjoy...

New and Improved Greddy Oil lines

Boost Noob, Must read this first!!!(Before You Go F/I READ!!!!!!!!!!!!!!)

Best 1/4 Mile Times and other track results

Dyno results for various cars (Official Dyno Thread)

Collection of Videos of boosted (turbo or S/C equipped, not stolen) cars.

Link to general Honda Boosting Information (somewhat Old School, but detailed in basic instruction)
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Old 04-25-2005, 12:07 PM   #2
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Greddy Catch Can Install Instructions by soccerman002

Quote:
Originally Posted by soccerman002
At the request of a few local people, as well as a few of you online, I am doing a small write-up on the installation of the Greddy Catch Can. These instructions can be applied to any catch can install for the RSX Type-S.

Well, here we go:

Materials/Tools:
_Greddy Catch Can Kit (catch can, fittings, bolts, misc. connectors, etc.)
_High Pressure hose (I got about 6' of 225psi hose, size 3/8")
_Filter material (I've heard of people using a scrub sponge or steel wool....I chose not to)
_Wrench or ratchet kit, along with a set of pliers
_Flexible metal strap (for mounting purposes, this is what I used)



1. First, decide where you want to mount the catch can. I chose to utilize my aftermarket strut bar and the space that was previously occupied by the stock air box. Once the mounting location has been chosen, it's time to get to work.
2. Before I did anything with the car, I got the catch can ready. I cut a few squares of the filter material and loosely put it in the catch can (no particular way to do it, just put it in there to serve as a filter). Next, hook-up the small tube and fittings that came with the kit that shows the amount of oil and unburnt material in the can. Pretty straightforward.
3. Next, remove the small hose between the PCV valve and the IM with a set of pliers. The two clips come off easily, but the hose might need to be twisted a bit b/c you'll find that it is on pretty snug. I used a set of pliers to twist the hose lose a bit...after that, it popped right off.

Here is a pic of the hose you will be replacing:


4. Connect one end of your new high pressure hose to the PCV valve. I bought a small box of clamps (the kind you tighten with a screwdriver, not sure of the proper name) to make sure the connection was nice and tight. Do the same for the valve coming out of the IM.

Pic of the new hose hooked up with the screwdriven clamps:


5. Using your metal strap (or whatever you are using), mount the can. I really can't be any more specific on how to mount it, as it all depends on if you decide to mount it horizontally or vertically, etc. I wrapped two layers of double sided tape on my strut bar to serve as a cushion, then contoured the metal strap around it. I then drilled two holes through the strap that correspond to the holes and mounting screws provided with the kit. After that, it's just working it until you've got it like you want it.
6. Once the can is mounted and the hoses run, all that is left is cutting the hose to the length that you want it, then hooking them up to the catch can.
7. Be sure to check all the connections. Make sure you've got clearance around the accessory drive belt (don't want a whole lot of extra hose, but enough so that there are no kinks in it) and that the catch can is secured tightly enough so that it won't move while the car is in motion.

After only a few hours of driving, I noticed that the hose running from the PCV valve to the catch can was already noticeably dirty, whereas the hose running from the catch can to the IM is still as clear as when I first bought it. This mod is suggested for those with superchargers by wdsonny (check the JRSC thread for more details), but I plan on upgrading to an ITR IM within the next few months, so I figured if anything this will keep it clean upon installation.

Overall, it is a nice engine dress-up item, and I've already seen that it is indeed functional.

Here is a pic of the finished product:


Final pic:
link to original thread: http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=262065
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Old 04-25-2005, 12:08 PM   #3
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Oil Pan Install Instructions by soccerman002

Quote:
Originally Posted by soccerman002
I figured I'd post this here, since the turbo guys are usually the only ones concerned with oil pan removal and reinstallation. I fucked my original pan up, so here ya' go:

Oil Pan Installation: Acura RSX Type-S

Approx. install time (for me atleast): +/- 4 hours

Tools Needed:
_Ratchet Set w/extensions
_Wrench Set
_Jack and Jack Stands
_Small block of wood
_New oil pan w/Hondabond (or Permatex Ultra Grey)
_Misc. oil change tools (pan, new oil, filter, etc.)
_Flathead screwdriver (decent size, no small pussy one)

Let me begin by saying that this was indeed a bitch to do. I talked with a guy on AIM that said he did it in a little less than 2 hours with the car elevated on a lift, so I figured it would take me about twice as long trying to do this on jackstands........I assumed right. I started about 1:00 and finished all the major tasks around 5:00-5:30 (this includes a trip home to check something in the Service Manual). Here are the major steps, with pics thrown in a long the way:

New oil pan, complete with a new tube of HondaBond HT:

http://img241.echo.cx/img241/5817/ne...ndabond6nw.jpg

1. Jack the car up and secure it on jackstands. Drain all the oil from the car and let it sit for about 20-25 minutes, just to get every last little bit out. Once you feel comfortable with the oil being completely drained, reinstall the drain bolt (just so you don't have oil dripping on you every now and then while you're under the car).

http://img250.echo.cx/img250/4008/carjackedup1ao.jpg[

2. At this point, I went ahead and removed all 18 bolts from the oil pan. They are 10mm bolts, pretty easy to remove, just takes a little while to do. They are spaced pretty evenly around the oil pan, so just keep count and make sure you got them all. The last thing you want is to go and try to pry the pan off with a bolt still on. Be sure to remove the black clutch cover, which will reveal two of the oil pan bolts that need to be removed. Below is a pic of the bolts, followed by a shot of the removed clutch cover location.

http://img62.echo.cx/img62/5977/oilpanbolts6fg.jpg

http://img50.echo.cx/img50/6587/clut...removed2ri.jpg

3. From here, it's just a matter of getting shit outta the way. I started by completely removing the front sway bar. This HAS to be out of the way for the subframe to drop enough to get clearance for the oil pan to drop. It doesn't matter if you've got the two rear bolts completely out of the subframe......it just won't drop enough with the sway bar still in place.

4. Before I tried to remove the front and rear motor mount bolts, I put the jack and piece of wood under the tranny and jacked it up about 1/2" or so........just to relieve some of the pressure on the mounts. They were still a bitch to take out, but I feel it would have been impossible had I left the weight of the engine on them.

http://img259.echo.cx/img259/3275/jackplacement9bp.jpg

5. Once the sway bar is removed, get the rear motor mount bolts taken care of (there are 3 of them). I had a really tough time with these, and ended up taking out a breaker bar for one of them. There was a point to where I thought I was fucked, but they all ended up coming out. Surprisingly, the front bolt came out with no problem at all.....go figure. Here is a shot of the rear mount bolt location, with bolts removed.

http://img259.echo.cx/img259/7274/rearmount7ug.jpg

6. With the sway bar and engine mount bolts taken care of, it's time to start dropping the subframe. I completely removed the rear bolts (2 of them, one on each side), and loosened the front bolts (4 total, 2 on each side). I did this until I felt I had adequate clearance to drop the oil pan. It's still going to be a tight fit, but if you angle the pan just right, it will slide right on out.

7. Once you have clearance, take a screwdriver and pry the pan out at the locations specified in the Service Manual (there are two locations). The locations are pretty easy to figure.......even if you don't have a Service Manual, you'd be able to look and see where you are suppose to pry. Just have a decent sized screwdriver, and apply slow but steady pressure until the seal breaks. In the picture below, I pried in an area over to the right, not visible in the pic. With the seal broken and the subframe dropped enough, remove the oil pan.

http://img255.echo.cx/img255/7690/oilpanloose0up.jpg

Shot of the underside of the engine with the pan removed:

http://img255.echo.cx/img255/5515/insidepan011pr.jpg

8. With the old pan removed, it's time to put the new one up. Clean the two surfaces, run a bead of HondaBond around the perimeter of the new pan, and angle it up and into place. Be sure that you have enough clearance to get the new pan up, b/c the HondaBond begins to cure in about 5 minutes, so you'd better have your shit together. With the new pan in place, begin the fun task of loosely screwing all 18 fucking bolts into place. Don't torque them down yet......just get them all into place. Once in place, consult the Service Manual for the correct order in which to torque them all down (8.7 lb-ft).

9. Now that the new pan is in place and torqued to spec, start putting all the shit back together. Just reverse the order in which you took everything apart, and go with it.

10. The Service Manual says you can fill the engine with oil after 30 minutes, but I'm going to let everything sit overnight just to give the HondaBond all the time it needs to cure properly.

Here is a shot of my old pan (it cracked around the drain bolt hole). I patched it up with JB-Weld just to get it over to my grandparents garage. It was about a 1" long crack, but I went overboard with the temp. patch just to be on the safe side.

http://img232.echo.cx/img232/713/oldpanpatch8xf.jpg

The End
link to original thread: http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=261228
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Old 04-25-2005, 12:34 PM   #4
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Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump Install Instructions by palmerblock

PART 1

Quote:
Originally Posted by palmerblock
I decided to post pics for you guys thinking about upgrading your fuel pump. Have the helms manual ready as i didnt go through all the steps of removal, i just went through the actual installation itself.
Like i said for more detail use the rsx service manul or refer to wdsonny's post on the install http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread...lbro+fuel+pump
I followed his post thoroughly but the only thing i did different was i didnt dremel ANYTHING, i only made three cuts and that was done using a razor blade. Also i re-routed the fuel line coming from the actual pump because of seal issues. I think sonny used a different pump, the one not sold on this site, but it was still a walbro. This method i used is similar to the one that was used on hardcorersxs car which was done by kickinit.

Me (palmerblock), wdsonny, kickinit, nor hardcorersxs is not responsible if you mess up your car

The fitting laying next to the pump assemby, cut that off which i already did as you can see in the pic, also re-use the stock filter, if its too dirty buy a new one from your local acura dealer, dont use the one that comes with the new pump, it just doesnt fit right in the housing. Use zip ties accordingly like in the picture. Also after you put the filter back on, put the lock washer back on the back of the pump in addition to using the zip ties. The lock washer goes on the back side of the pump which is on the right side of the picture and cannot be seen at this angle, but you will know what im talking about when you have yours in your hand. Refer to wdsonny's post, the link is above This is the first cut i made


Here it is at another angle, as you can see that top piece is cut off, you will see what for later. The main reason was because i couldnt get a good seal with it. Use zip ties accordingly.


The hose that is missing from that nipple needs to be removed as it will not be used, you'll see why in later pics. Notice the position of the fuel pump assembly in the picture versus yours before you go to remove it. I used a razor blade to remove it cuz it was basically locked on there. BE CAREFUL NOT TO CUT YOURSELF OR WIRES.


Here is the hose removed


Get a long fuel line and attach it here on the new pump and clamp it down, do not cut yet, you will do that later once you put everything together
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Old 04-25-2005, 12:36 PM   #5
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Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump Install Instructions by palmerblock

PART 2

Quote:
Originally Posted by palmerblock
Look at what im holding, look right above my pinky finger, cut a hole there exactly like that, you will see why in later pics. This is the second cut i made


put the pump assemly in, put the tabs slits back in there same stock location, they will bend inwards since this pump is longer than the stock one, dont worry its ok. Also look at this pic. Look next to where the hose comes out on the upper left side of the pic. Later on in the installation when you go to put the top cover back on, you will see that it hits on the right side of the assembly towards the front, which also happens to be the top portion of this picture, next to the hose, and no, dont get me wrong, the hose is not the problem. You will need to cut a slit on the top portion of the cover that covers that area that hits in order for it to fit properly. SORRY I DIDNT TAKE A PICTUE BEFORE I PUT THE PUMP BACK IN, BUT YOU WILL SEE WHAT IM TALKING ABOUT, ITS VERY EASY. IF YOU GOTTEN THIS FAR, YOU SHOUDLN'T HAVE A PROBLEM WHEN YOU GET TO THIS STEP WHICH IS NOT PICTURED The reason why it his is because the pump sits closer to the walls of the housing since it is longer. On the top cover, it comes down, and that is where you will need to cut. On the stock pump it didnt come this close to where the top cover comes down, thats why it fitted perfectly. Also this is the third and final cut i made


now you see why i cut that slit in the bottom housing


LOOK CLOSELY AT THIS PIC. now it is time to cut the fuel line after you route it around to that nipple that you cut the stock line off of. Once you test fit it, cut it, attach it and use a clamp for piece of mind. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN the clamp as you dont want to crack the plastic the hose slides onto. Just tighten it enough to where it holds firm


Here is another pic of what im talkin about with the routing procedure, hose, and the clamp. ALSO, look at where those wires are coming out, that is where i made my third cut so the top cover could sit correctly as mentioned above


Here is your finshed product


Lastly, when your putting this crap back in your tank, be careful of the float. Here is how i put it in since i modified the stock fuel line and it runs on the outside of the pump assembly
When you first pulled this assembly out of the tank, you will notice that the assembly rotates to a straight position to make removal easy, this will not be the case when you put it back in because of the modified fuel line and it will prevent it from getting straight again. You will have to turn the pump all kind on funky ways to get it in, LOL, but it is easy, dont fear, it took me a total of one minute to get this sucker in because of the differnt approach i had to take to get it in and and because i was gong slow. FYI, once this sucker is in it, sits like a "L", not straight, it only gets straight when you removed it for ease of removal, and as you can see, it returns to its "L" shape once removed.
First get the float in, then start sitting the rest in. Now do the rest slow and it will slide in like butter. You will find you dont have complete movement of the whole pump assembly since the line runs on the outside and the line hits that u bar. look at the pics above to see what im talkin bout. all you have to do is wiggle, manuver and push slowly and gently and the pump will slide in, for the rest refer to wdsonny's post, the link is above
link to original thread: http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=239656
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Old 05-10-2005, 07:59 PM   #6
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Changing the actuator to change boost levels on the Greddy kit by RsxManJoe

Quote:
Originally Posted by RsxManJoe
The actuator arm is the long gold(I think) colored bar that connects to the wastegate flapper and runs to the circular actuator. When the nipple on the actuator recieves the set boost level, the spring contracts pulling the arm and this opening the internal wastegate flapper....The flapper releases boost into the exhaust stream and thats how it works

1.Remove the ic pipe going into the compressor. I believe you take off the clamps, then pull it right out
2.Remove the two bolts holding the actuator to the compressor. Theyre prob 14mm
3.Remove the actuator arm from the wastegate swing arm. Its located on the turbine section of the turbo and is rectangular shaped..Prying it off the wastegate arm with a flathead is the best way to get it off.

Now take off the arm and see the nut near the actuator.Usually one full turn of it equals 1 psi more/less or pressure....Im not sure which way turns it looser but you can probably figure that out by looking at it....

The best way to gauge where boost is at when the arm is off is to shoot a compressor right through the nipple to see when it expands and opens......other than that you gotta put it back on the car and see what happens....
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Old 07-23-2005, 01:53 PM   #7
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Idle Air Control Valve Cleaning Guide Instructions by soccerman002

Quote:
Originally Posted by soccerman002
I figured that this would be something worthwhile to add to the boards, considering a few boost guys have complained about eradict idling. The problem is often due to a dirty idle control valve, located on the underside of the throttle body.

It's pretty basic stuff, nothing difficult. Begin by removing the misc. electronic plugs from the throttle body. Remove the two bolts and two nuts, then pop the throttle body off. Turn it over, and you'll see the IAC valve bolted to the underside of the TB. Remove the screws, then remove the electronic portion of the valve. After it's removed, soak the valve with non-chlorinated brake cleaner and work the valve back and forth to clear the build-up. I'd let it dry for at least a day (might be overkill, but oh well, I've got the garage to leave the car in), then reinstall.

I haven't cleaned the valve yet, but will post pics tomorrow night to show a before & after.

Here are the pics:

_Underside of the throttle body, with the IAC valve removed:


_IAC valve removed. Notice the electronic portion that should be removed prior to spraying:


_The build-up around the IAC valve:


_Shot with the electronics removed. The valve has a magnetic end:
link to original thread: http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=288936
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Old 11-12-2005, 12:54 PM   #8
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Greddy Turbo Kit Install Instructions by Ironraven

PART 1

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironraven
As promised, here's the install guide. I hope you all enjoy, I'll soon be adding this to my website too, just in case this thread dies at some point.

Comprehensive Greddy Turbo install guide.

First, remove the front strut bar




Now remove the intake manifold cover



And release the fuel pressure by first removing the gas cap and then loosening the fuel pressure release valve on the fuel rail



Next I removed my DC shorty header and the heat shield. These are the bolts that need to be removed in order to get the header loose from the cat.





I couldnít get good pics of the heatshield bolts so use your imagination
Greddy Turbo Kit Install Instructions by Ironraven

PART 2

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironraven
Now remove the header





Now that you have room to roam, itís heatwrapping time. This is probably the most frustrating and annoying part. Take my advice and donít cut any of your zip ties until you are all done with the install. This will help to avoid cutting the crap out of your hands on the sharp edges. Wrap everything in sight. Donít kill anyone.

Take off the wires plugging into the VTC solenoid





Now remove the VTC solenoid and its heat shield and pull back the rubber cover on the oil pressure sensor



Greddy Turbo Kit Install Instructions by Ironraven

PART 3

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironraven
Reinstall the taps and the elbow for the oil pressure sensor and the oil pressure gauge and the oil feed line.



Then reinstall the oil pressure sensor, and install the oil feed line and the oil pressure gauge fitting.



You may notice that this all doesnít fit very wellÖ and itís also recommended to only have 1 t-fitting on the block since all that weight can cause it to break off, and we donít want that. I decided to get some high-pressure hose with premade fittings and extend it. Sorry, these are bad picsÖ Iíll try to take better ones later.





Greddy Turbo Kit Install Instructions by Ironraven

PART 4

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironraven
Next, install the stud bolts in the engine block and on the header, then install the header using your OEM gasket.





Heatwrap the turbo actuator, check all fittings and install your turbo and compressor, make sure you remember the gasket. Notice that the oil feed line comes up from the back in this pic. Do this if you are routing your oil feed line from the engine block, otherwise Iíd recommend putting it on later.







Fasten the oil feed line to avoid getting any dust or debris in the turbo, if you need to move it later itís easy.



Heatwrap your oil feed return line and install it with the provided gasket. I used an 8Ē extension to do this, youíll definitely need a long one, at least a 6Ē. Install the banjo bolt or the bung if you tapped your pan. Then hook up the oil return bracket to keep the hose from hitting the axle. Modify the driveshaft heat shield if you plan on re-installing it.
(no pics of this yet... they're coming)
Greddy Turbo Kit Install Instructions by Ironraven

PART 5

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironraven
Now you need to install the downpipe. I installed an EGT gauge so I drilled the DP and then had the bung welded to it.




Make sure to run a tap through the bung after to make sure it didnít warp from the heat.

Now install the three stud bolts, gasket and then the downpipe. If you put the EGT sensor in the same spot I did, this can be installed after.





OkÖ more removal of stock parts. I donít have shots of taking off the bumper or removing the front bumper support, so youíre on your own. After that, itís time to take off the washer bottle. Remove the bolts holding it to the frame and drain that bish. Those things just pop right out of there with a little force applied with a screwdriver. Make sure you have something in place to drain it into.



Greddy Turbo Kit Install Instructions by Ironraven

PART 6

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironraven
Thereís a piece of the frame that needs to be removed.
Before:

After:


The horns also need to be removed. Then re-install the horns with the FMIC mounts and spacers in place


Next install the FMIC itself, taking care to align it properly


Itís a tight squeezeÖ but itís not that bad (just wait, it gets worse) but it will fit, I promise. Install the compression pipe on the compressor and then the next one after that. Donít worry about fastening anything down to the engine block yet, itís easier to do it later.



I had to remove the stock battery grounding in order to properly route the hose. You can see in this pic that itís in the way.

Greddy Turbo Kit Install Instructions by Ironraven

PART 7

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironraven
Now install the next piece of the compressor pipe, itís easiest if you keep the screw heads pointed towards a place you can easily access them for tightening.



Test fit and install the compressor pipe to the intercooler





Now the real fun begins. Install the large pipe that runs across the front of the Intercooler. Rotate the clamp on the radiator hose so it moves it up slightly as per the Greddy install instructions and cram the charge pipe in there. Itís a helluva tight fit, but it will go if you have moved the radiator hose enough. Make sure the connections are tightened down very well, as you donít want to try and tighten those hose clamps after itís installed.



Then remove the battery and the tray; trust me, it makes everything so much easier that itís well worth the effort. You will also have to remove the clips holding the wires coming from the positive battery cable and bend that bracket out of the way.



Greddy Turbo Kit Install Instructions by Ironraven

PART 8

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironraven
Next gently feed the final compressor pipe through the maze of wires, tubes and pipes. Take your time and check from the top and bottom to ensure you have it aligned properly.







Tighten the clamps down tight and ensure that all pipes are properly and fully inserted into the hose connectors. Remember, if these arenít tightened properly you wonít get any boost.



Finally, once everything is tightened down properly bolt the piping down to the appropriate brackets. Spacers may be needed as the fitament varies depending on the car.

The next step is installing the suction pipe. Assemble the air filter and attach it to the suction pipe. Install the grommet for the IAT sensor. Feed the suction pipe through the forest of crap and fit it on to the compressor. Donít tighten it down yet though, youíll need it to be loose for the next step.

Greddy Turbo Kit Install Instructions by Ironraven

PART 9

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironraven
Now you need to fasten the intake to the bracket to keep it stable. Hereís a shot of the place on the tranny where it bolts down and of the bracket installed. You might as well install the bracket for the washer bottle at the same time (3rd pic).







You can see the other washer bottle bracket in that pic too, but hereís a closeup just for kicks.



And another shot of the other bracket.

Greddy Turbo Kit Install Instructions by Ironraven

PART 10

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironraven
Remove the injector wire cover from the fuel rail and snap it apart.



Remove the injector clips, then unbolt the fuel rail and pull it off the stock injectors. Then remove the stock injectors.



Cut the old injector clips, but make sure to leave tails on them in case you want to re-install them at a later date. Strip the wires, and solder on the new injector clips, making sure to put the shrink tubing on before you solder the connections.



Install the new fuel rail studs and spacers. Install the new injectors on the fuel rail, then insert the injectors into the intake manifold and tighten them down, making sure that the injector contacts are facing the engine. Then re-fasten the injector wire cover over the injector wires.



Tap the turbo actuator hose into the master vacuum hose. Connect the blow-by hose, the IAT sensor and the air control assist hose to the Intake. Tap the boost gauge and BOV lines too while youíre at it.

Greddy Turbo Kit Install Instructions by Ironraven

PART 11

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironraven
Get ready to hack your bumper. I used a DremelÖ First line up the bumper and figure out where you want to cut it. Be patient otherwise youíll end up hacking the crap out of it like I did.
Before:


After:


Mounted:


Final touches; installing the gauges. First pop off the old A-pillar.




Next, feed the lines for your gauges into the dash
Greddy Turbo Kit Install Instructions by Ironraven

PART 12

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironraven
Next, feed the lines for your gauges into the dash








Now pull the lines through as you pull the gauge pillar towards the a-pillar. You will want to put double sided tape on it if thatís how you are going to fasten it first.


Greddy Turbo Kit Install Instructions by Ironraven

PART 13

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironraven
I chose to wrap my lines to avoid clutterÖ itís up to you to decide how to do yours.


Feed the lines under the dash


Then zip tie them out of the way.


On the engine bay side, feed a coathanger through the rubber grommet on the passenger side.


And here it comes through the firewall.


Tape your lines on and carefully pull through the firewall. If you have manual gauges, this is where you will most likely kink the lines, so be careful.
Greddy Turbo Kit Install Instructions by Ironraven

PART 14

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironraven
Hereís my oil pressure line all connected and heatwrapped.


Hereís the connection for my boost gauge.


And this shows the line for my EGT gauge.


After tuning, re-install any stock parts that you still havenít installed (like the strut bar or whatever). Iíd recommend waiting until after tuning just in case you need to take turbo parts off.

Well... there it is. As promised. I hope you all enjoy it

-------IR
Link to original thread http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?p=7455109
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Old 11-18-2005, 11:39 PM   #9
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Old 11-07-2008, 01:01 PM   #10
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IAT Threading instructions

m10x1.25 tap and die
11/32nd drill bit (this is slightly smaller but it will work fine)
Black RTV to seal the threads

mark a spot on your charge pipe which is near the throttle body but out of the way of your coolant line/wiring/battery. Drill the hole with your 11/32nd drill.

Use the m10x1.25 tap to thread the hole, making sure you are threading the hole straight as the aluminum/steel charge piping is probably somewhat thin and easy to go at an angle.

Put your IAT sensor in a vice (gently hold it so it can't spin but don't crank it down too much as it could break the sensor. Use a sharp knife to cut the 'teeth' off the sensor where it used to sit in the grommet on the stock intake tubing. Now, carefully start your die onto the top of the IAT and slowly turn it down til you're about 3/4s of the way down the main part of the IAT sensor. Back the die off carefully and remove any plastic burrs caused by threading it.

Add a small dab of RTV to your sensors threads and thread it into the charge piping until it stops turning. Re-install your charge piping and make sure you hook up your IAT sensor. You're all done.
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