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Old 06-23-2015, 12:39 PM   #101
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Not that I know of..yet. I want one myself.
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Old 06-23-2015, 01:08 PM   #102
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Just curious if I'm the first on this forum ��
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Old 06-23-2015, 03:05 PM   #103
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You have it installed and tuned?
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Old 06-23-2015, 04:36 PM   #104
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90% installed. Not tuned yet.
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Old 06-23-2015, 08:04 PM   #105
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If Jose made a water to air version of his manifold I'd seriously consider a TVS 1320 kit. I think the EFR is the next step though- they are just too badass.

I'd like to see some more interest in the TVS development for the older chassis like the RSX/EP- I've really only seen 8th gen guys doing it. Tim is the only guy I know running big power with a TVS setup- his accord powered by a TVS 2300 is a f@&king monster.


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Old 06-23-2015, 08:44 PM   #106
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I'm not aware of any TVS builds on the RSX, interested to see how you make out
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Old 06-24-2015, 09:03 AM   #107
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Morning folks.. Anyone know where I can order injector O-rings? Using ID 725 injectors and believe they are 14 mm
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Old 06-24-2015, 01:36 PM   #108
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Originally Posted by bluep3k24 View Post
If Jose made a water to air version of his manifold I'd seriously consider a TVS 1320 kit.
I've been following Jose's progress with significant interest for some time now, and I'm inclined to agree. Air to air cooling sounds awesome from an efficiency standpoint and the resistance to heatsoak, but I suspect that there will be significant idle problems with that much throttled air volume. Just curious if your thinking is the same, or if you're interested in water cooling for different reasons (e.g., the ability to run ice water for drag racing)?

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I think the EFR is the next step though- they are just too badass.
Also agree. My fantasy build keeps flipping back and forth between a meth-injected Merc Racing TVS 1320 kit and a Full Race twin scroll EFR kit.

Anyway, I'm really interested in seeing results from the TVS 1320 kit. I'm especially interested in seeing the effect of the longer intake runners on low-rpm torque. I kinda suspect that the JR and CT manifolds left a bit of performance on the table at the low end due to their nonexistent runners.

Good luck with your build bomdc5! Looking forward to seeing your results
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Old 06-25-2015, 06:14 AM   #109
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Good morning gents

Been driving the RSX this week and I finally sorted out the p/s issues that has been plaguing me lol. First, I had a bad o ring on the low pressure side when I swapped back to the OEM neck. Now the cars steering is smooth again, no p/s fluid leaking all over from air getting in and that horrid whine of air seeping in is gone

I used the dremel to mod the p/s neck to grind down where the bolt sits to get better clearance. I need to check to see if I'm clearing the hood, so tomorrow I'm going to touch up paint the hood and see if if its still making contact
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Old 06-25-2015, 07:52 AM   #110
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Old 06-27-2015, 09:43 AM   #111
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Kit is installed but I'm not getting fuel pressure. Any thoughts?

Took the pump out again to check hoses and everything was tight. Pump primes everytime I turn the key, but seems like it's not pushing enough fuel. When I undo the fuel line at the rail, there is a bit of fuel that runs out, but not a lot. Fuel pressure gauge doesn't even register (stays at 0).
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Old 06-27-2015, 12:30 PM   #112
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Kit is installed but I'm not getting fuel pressure. Any thoughts?

Took the pump out again to check hoses and everything was tight. Pump primes everytime I turn the key, but seems like it's not pushing enough fuel. When I undo the fuel line at the rail, there is a bit of fuel that runs out, but not a lot. Fuel pressure gauge doesn't even register (stays at 0).

You either have a clogged fuel line/ filter, a bad pump, or a bad electrical connection.


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Old 06-27-2015, 12:53 PM   #113
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Update: after enough priming, finally got the car to start. Idle is very rough and AFR showing quite lean. I haven't adjusted fuel pressure yet. Do I do this first or get a base calibration done first from a tuner?

Currently I tried using my old 9psi map for the JRSC and just changed the injectors to 1000cc and MAP sensor to Hondata 4 bar.
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Old 06-27-2015, 02:24 PM   #114
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Update: after enough priming, finally got the car to start. Idle is very rough and AFR showing quite lean. I haven't adjusted fuel pressure yet. Do I do this first or get a base calibration done first from a tuner?

Currently I tried using my old 9psi map for the JRSC and just changed the injectors to 1000cc and MAP sensor to Hondata 4 bar.
Are you running a IACV? If not check kmanager settings so its disabled. If yes check idle duty. And, try a sc base map from hondata's site, maybe your old tune is too aggressive for what its at now.



Any socal locals interested? http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=1130050
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Old 06-27-2015, 07:06 PM   #115
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Hey fellas, so I'm getting closer and closer to getting my sc installed. I've been talking with Stiegmier and one of the questions they asked was what size crank pulley I will be using so they can figure out the speed of the charger.

When I bought my sc, it came with a pulley. The guy said it was from a k24, I just want to clarify which k24. I will be using it with a 3in pulley and they will also do a pulley constrictor job on it which will bring the size of the pulley down enough to need a new belt. They claim no slippage so why not right?

Also, another concern about this. Would it be better (safer) to run my stock z1 pulley over this one?

Here is a photo of the cp I received with the charger purchase.



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Old 06-28-2015, 08:04 PM   #116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luna View Post
Hey fellas, so I'm getting closer and closer to getting my sc installed. I've been talking with Stiegmier and one of the questions they asked was what size crank pulley I will be using so they can figure out the speed of the charger.

When I bought my sc, it came with a pulley. The guy said it was from a k24, I just want to clarify which k24. I will be using it with a 3in pulley and they will also do a pulley constrictor job on it which will bring the size of the pulley down enough to need a new belt. They claim no slippage so why not right?

Also, another concern about this. Would it be better (safer) to run my stock z1 pulley over this one?

Here is a photo of the cp I received with the charger purchase.



What's up with those notches in the pulley
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Old 06-28-2015, 08:24 PM   #117
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What's up with those notches in the pulley
No idea lol. Looks like ur may have been dropped twice
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Old 06-28-2015, 08:40 PM   #118
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What's up with those notches in the pulley
yeah I was going to ask that too lol

and thats not a k24 CP, thats a Z1, i bet your stock one is same size.
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Old 06-28-2015, 08:54 PM   #119
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yeah I was going to ask that too lol

and thats not a k24 CP, thats a Z1, i bet your stock one is same size.


So using my stock z1 cp with a 3in pulley, it won't be at 11psi? Any idea where i can find out what I need to calculate to find out what psi I will be at?
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Old 06-28-2015, 09:07 PM   #120
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Idle is still bouncing, not sure if it's due to vacuum leak or low fuel pressure. My fuel gauge is only showing 15psi. I'm using the 0.100 orifice that came installed with the regulator. I turned the screw all the way down and still no change in pressure. Do you guys know if the 0.15 or 0.2 orifice would yield higher pressure or lower? (I'm assuming lower since it is larger opening)

I've cleaned the IACV today and it didn't help stabilize idle. Still left to check is vacuum leak. Would low fuel pressure make idle bounce up and down?

Fuel pump (walbro 255) is priming every time, but it can't seem to keep pressure in the line after the engine is turned off. If I want to start the car, I have to prime 5-10 times and give it gas then it would start after 10 seconds or so of cranking.
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Old 06-29-2015, 12:18 AM   #121
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So using my stock z1 cp with a 3in pulley, it won't be at 11psi? Any idea where i can find out what I need to calculate to find out what psi I will be at?
I think the more useful information they need is the blower RPM right?
To get that, I believe the formula is (engine redline rpm * cp diam) / bp diam
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Old 06-29-2015, 03:42 AM   #122
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So using my stock z1 cp with a 3in pulley, it won't be at 11psi? Any idea where i can find out what I need to calculate to find out what psi I will be at?
I can twll you with a z1 cp and 3.0sc pulley you will see 9psi. I changed to the k20a2 pulley with 3" sc pulley and get 11.3psi
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Old 06-29-2015, 06:16 AM   #123
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So using my stock z1 cp with a 3in pulley, it won't be at 11psi? Any idea where i can find out what I need to calculate to find out what psi I will be at?

I wouldn't use that pulley- probably way out of balance.

The blower calc is crank pulley size divided by boost pulley size then times that by engine redline rpm and that will give you blower rpm at redline. Example: (5.98/3)x8650=17.2k rpm. That's using my personal setup of a TSX crank pulley and 3in blower pulley.

I originally used a k20a2 crank pulley with the 3in blower pulley and that net me 11ish psi. The k24a2 crank pulley with the 3in blower pulley now nets me 14ish psi. All at a 8650rpm redline on a JDM k20a.

Remember- the z1 crank pulley is smaller than the k20a2 crank pulley so expect less boost if you go that route.


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Old 06-29-2015, 06:18 AM   #124
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I think the more useful information they need is the blower RPM right?
To get that, I believe the formula is (engine redline rpm * cp diam) / bp diam
Correct. I'm just trying to get as much info as possible and be sure I run the right pulley(or have the right one at that which now I know isn't lol). Thanks and I'll have to write that info down.
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I can twll you with a z1 cp and 3.0sc pulley you will see 9psi. I changed to the k20a2 pulley with 3" sc pulley and get 11.3psi
Awesome. Thanks for that info. Going to search for an a2 cp now
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Old 06-29-2015, 06:32 AM   #125
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Idle is still bouncing, not sure if it's due to vacuum leak or low fuel pressure. My fuel gauge is only showing 15psi. I'm using the 0.100 orifice that came installed with the regulator. I turned the screw all the way down and still no change in pressure. Do you guys know if the 0.15 or 0.2 orifice would yield higher pressure or lower? (I'm assuming lower since it is larger opening)

I've cleaned the IACV today and it didn't help stabilize idle. Still left to check is vacuum leak. Would low fuel pressure make idle bounce up and down?

Fuel pump (walbro 255) is priming every time, but it can't seem to keep pressure in the line after the engine is turned off. If I want to start the car, I have to prime 5-10 times and give it gas then it would start after 10 seconds or so of cranking.

I'm assuming you have a fuel return by the sound of it, with aftermarket lines, pump, and regulator? The orifice is in the return section of the regulator correct? The 0.1 should yield the highest pressure assuming it is mounted in your return to tank section of the regulator, as it has the smallest hole for fuel to pass through. If you can- you could try tossing the other orifices in there just to see. Have you inspected your pump and filters? It sounds like your walbro is either gunked up or about to shit the bed.

If you have a fuel return- just an FYI- the fuel line doesn't stay pressurized. It will bleed off once you shut the car down. But if you need to prime it consistently just to get cranking pressure id be suspect of the pump or filter.


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