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Old 05-21-2019, 05:06 PM   #1
CyborgGT
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What all do I need for small paint jobs?

I'm needing to paint my carbon hood. I screwed up trying to get by with rattle cans; the cans of Desert Silver I ordered just spit all over the panel... it's worth stressing that I REALLY don't care about this thing looking perfect, it just needs to look good enough at a glance. Local shops all want about $600 for the job, which I think is a bit ridiculous after Maaco (long since shut down locally) did a great job painting my Type R wing six years ago for $120. I've got access to a friend's air compressor, so I'd like to know if I can tackle this with decent result while not spending more than a few hundred bucks on tools and materials. Paint and clear I can pick up for about $100 online.

The specs on the compressor I've got access to:

- 2 hp
- 26 gal
- 4 scfm @ 90 psi
- 5 scfm @ 40 psi

I've been using this compressor with a disc sander to remove the old flaking clear, and it feels like it would have enough air supply to keep up with painting the panel.


I look at paint gun specs and they call for cfm, not scfm, so that's all a bit confusing to me. The main one I'm looking at is the DeVilbiss StartingLine (HVLP) kit, based on a reviewer saying it did well with a similar compressor to mine:

https://www.eastwood.com/devilbiss-a...up-system.html


The guy in the video below recommends against using HVLP guns for budget home jobs, saying you can get better results with... some other type of gun, I don't know. He specifically recommends a DeVilbiss FLG-5 that isn't available in the US. Honestly, I'm looking into this stuff and my head starts swimming when I see all these technical specs and jargon that I'm not familiar with.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8-3re8Z_NLw


I also know I need to keep water out of the gun, but don't know if I need one of the expensive dryers or can get away with picking up a few of these throw-away filters for a job so small. After this hood, I'm not likely to paint anything else for a very long time:

https://www.eastwood.com/disposable-...ir-filter.html


Thoughts? Am I missing anything, as far as proper operation of the gun is concerned? Once it stops raining and warms back up (would you believe we just got snow last night?!), I'll be laying down a bit of filler for some pockmarks in the carbon weave, and then using rattle cans for the primer since that'll be sanded anyway, so the gun only has to be good for laying down the base coat and clear.

Thanks for any help.
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Old 05-27-2019, 01:08 AM   #2
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I remember a while back when I first started painting, it was scary to get into. There's a lot of info out there. I will attempt to cover as many aspects as I can for you, and any tips I have learned in the process.

-HVLP is fine to use, and will be an easier process for you. It's what I use, and I achieve amazing results with a cheap HVLP gun. (Like $100 gun)

-the main thing is prep. If you want perfect paint, your prep must be PERFECT. Trust me when I say this, you need to be sure it is PERRRRRFECTLY prepped. By this I mean sanded.

-I remove old paint with 220 grit, then I spray filler, wet sand with 600 grit till its one million percent smooth, then I will shoot my base coat.

- temperature is a big deal. I have painted in cold, hot, and wet climates. My best results was in 65 degree Temps with low moisture. The colder it is, the longer it will take to dry.

- spray your primer, wet sand with 600 and then wipe it at least 5 times with a damp wet paper towel to remove ALL the left over sanding water. Then wipe it down with a microfiber very thoroughly before you shoot the base

-shoot the base and LEAVE IT ALONE to dry. Once it's dry, lay on that clear. You must not touch the base coat after its sprayed with anything other than a tack cloth

-use tack cloths! They're cheap and any surface particles will stick to it like glue so you have a fresh surface to spray onto. Just buy a whole box of them.

-lastly, you will realize after your first paint job where you messed up and this is the only way to learn how to paint and prep better. It will also show you that painting is actually very easy as long as you are picky on your prep and do not rush the actual painting process
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Old 05-27-2019, 01:11 AM   #3
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One last thing! Your compressor is a 26 gallon. This will work, but it is not ideal. Ideal would be 60+ gallons.

Now, I have made this mistake and I warn you about it too. I used a 30 gallon compressor a few years back and painted in my garage. By the time I was done shooting my clear, I realized how thick the air was with the paint. It was VERY cloudy in there and guess what? Your compressor likely generates small sparks when it starts up and shuts off. Obviously a thick atmosphere with paint like that, is flammable. I could have bust into flames. Luckily I did not. Lesson learned. Don't let it be you!
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Old 05-27-2019, 03:02 AM   #4
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Thanks for the reply. I think I've got prep down, since I've been painting small things like valve covers for years with rattle cans and have plenty of experience experimenting with different things in the filler and primer stages, and getting it smooth and straight before laying down color. I do have an eye for detail, so I'm patient with getting it right.

From what I've read on compressors being able to keep up with different job sizes, it sounds like this 26-gallon will be enough for a single panel. I definitely wouldn't try to paint a whole car with it.

As things sit, I've decided to wait on the paint. After laying down the first couple coats of rattle can color and it turning out like shit thanks to the nozzles dripping all over it, I sanded it back down to primer and just today went over it with some Rustoleum lacquer clear. The can says it's pretty durable stuff, anyway. It actually turned out pretty nice, and I'll be wet-sanding it tomorrow to drive around on for a while while I collect these tools (as well as a couple junkyard fenders for practice) for proper painting. What's kind of cool is that I sanded through the primer in some spots and the carbon fiber is showing through in patches. The primer I used is almost like an army green, too, so... I may have accidentally invented a unique style of "race camo," haha. I'll get pics up once it's back on the car.
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