ITR Brembo Replacement Rotors application??? - Page 2 - Club RSX Message Board
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Old 04-21-2006, 12:30 PM   #26
Ocelaris
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Would you be interested in trading the ABS unit for a pair of rotors? and/or towards the cost? I have an EP3 and the ABS unit is not compatible with the chassis, as the hard lines are in the wrong places. I had hoped to just swapped out the ABS ECU, but since it's so different, I didn't even try. I have this at home if anyone is interested.

Were you going to try and make the rears also? I know they don't wear through as often, but they're also very pricey and hard to find.

I'm almost positive I would be in for a set if it was significantly less than the mugen/aero rotors. I have no need for performance rotors as I never track the car, but just hate to be left out in the cold when they need replacement.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dergrah
Back to the DC5-R proportioning valve.

Here is the Honda Japan Part Number as per my DC5-R parts CD.

46210-S5A-812 VALVE ASSY., PROPORTIONING

HondaAutomotiveParts .com has it !!!

Product
No. Image Description Color List
Price Our
Price Click to Buy!
1070626 VALVE ASSY., PROPORTIONING NO COLOR 60.03 45.02

It does not say what car it is from in NA anyone know ? I'm going to order it today to use with my brembo setup with type-s master as I know it's the same as the type-r.

Derek
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ocelaris
Herson Honda is the Shit... they give part # and car model

http://www.thehondapartsstore.com

46210-S5A-812 VALVE ASSY., PROPORTIONING 03 - 06 ACCORD 60.03 45.03
46210-S5A-812 VALVE ASSY., PROPORTIONING 03 - 05 CIVIC 60.03 45.03

haven't been able to find what civic uses that part yet.

Last edited by Ocelaris; 04-23-2006 at 12:10 AM..
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Old 04-22-2006, 05:46 AM   #27
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More info

Thanks for the offer but I'm an ep3 too. Was electrical plug compatible?

The two piece won’t be cheep upfront but will be much lighter and cheaper in the long run if you track the car. If your running the stock Ferodo pads you’ll see there really hard on the rotor for daily driving. (Dusty too !)

As of right now I'm only interested in the front and I kept the stock rear setup and just used the DC5-R caliper. As I'm using the DC5-R rims (60 offset) I have H&R spacers in the back. Now I can use all stock parts in the rear. (my original donor had bent hub)

I have not done the parts lookup yet but maybe some of these parts are available on other NA cars. I'd hate to have a bearing go only to find out I can only get it in Japan.

Edit. Found the bearing !

44300-S47-008 BEARING ASSY., FR. HUB 00 - 05 S2000

If anyone wants to source the parts in Japan here are the part numbers for the front.

01 01463-S6M-J51 SEAL & BOOT SET, PISTON 1
02 44300-S47-008 BEARING ASSY., FR. HUB (NTN) 2
03 44600-S87-A00 HUB ASSY., FR. 2
04 45017-S6M-J51 BLEEDER & CAP SET 4
05 45018-S6M-J51 CALIPER SUB ASSY., R. FR. 1
06 45019-S6M-J51 CALIPER SUB ASSY., L. FR. 1
07 45022-S6M-J52 PAD SET, FR. 1
08 45251-S6M-J61 DISK, FR. BRAKE (16") 2
09 45255-S6M-J50 GUARD, FR. SPLASH 2
10 45352-S6M-J51 SCREW, BLEEDER 4
11 45353-S6M-J51 CAP, BLEEDER 4
12 90107-S6M-J50 BOLT, CALIPER MOUNTING 4
13 90113-S84-901 BOLT, WHEEL (ROCKNEL FASTENER) 10
14 90651-S6M-J50 CLIP, CALIPER 4
15 90681-SG0-000 CIRCLIP, INTERNAL, 84MM 2
16 93600-06014-0H SCREW, FLAT, 6X14 4
17 93892-05012-08 SCREW-WASHER, 5X12 6
18 45248-S6M-J51 PIN, PAD 4
Attached Images
File Type: bmp Front Brake (Type R).bmp (308.9 KB, 414 views)

Last edited by dergrah; 04-22-2006 at 06:05 AM..
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Old 04-22-2006, 05:49 AM   #28
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Here is the rear.

01 01473-sv4-000 Caliper Set, Rr. 2
02 06430-s5a-j00 Pad Set, Rr. (without Shim) 1
03 06435-s2a-000 Shim Set, Rr. 1
04 42200-s1a-e21 Bearing Assy., Rr. Hub Unit 2
05 42326-st7-z00 Cap, Hub Unit 2
06 42510-s6m-j50 Disk, Rr. Brake 2
07 43018-s6m-j51 Caliper Sub Assy., R. Rr. 1
08 43019-s6m-j51 Caliper Sub Assy., L. Rr. 1
09 43022-s5a-j00 Pad Set, Rr. 1
10 43215-sm4-951 Piston Assy. 2
11 43223-sd2-932 Bearing A 2
12 43224-sd2-931 Spring B, Adjusting 2
13 43227-sg0-013 Spring, Pad 2
14 43228-sd2-933 Shaft A 1
15 43229-sd2-931 Rod 2
16 43233-s5a-j01 Piston Comp., Sleeve 2

17 43235-s84-a51 Pin A
18 43236-s04-003 Spacer 2
19 43238-sf1-003 Ring, Retaining 2
20 43241-s5a-003 Guide, Spring 2
21 43243-sd2-931 Nut, Parking 2
22 43244-sg0-003 Retainer 4
23 43245-s5a-j01 Lever, R. 1
24 43246-sd2-931 Spring, R. Return 1

25 43247-s5a-j01 Arm, R.
26 43248-sd2-933 Shaft B 1
27 43249-s04-003 Bolt, Adjuster 2
28 43253-s5a-950 Guard, R. Rr. Splash 1
29 43254-s5a-950 Guard, L. Rr. Splash 1

30 43262-s84-a51 Pin B
31 43265-s5a-j01 Lever, L. 1
32 43266-sd2-931 Spring, L. Return 1

33 43267-s5a-j01 Arm, L.
34 43352-568-003 Screw, Bleeder 2
35 45353-s3y-003 Cap, Bleeder 2

36 45240-sc2-003 Bolt, Flange, 8x22
37 90103-sn7-003 Bolt, Flange, 10x25 4
38 90113-sa0-006 Bolt, Wheel (saga) 10
39 90305-s30-003 Nut, Spindle 2
40 93402-06012-08 Bolt-washer, 6x12 6
41 93600-06014-0h Screw, Flat, 6x14 4
42 94111-10800 Washer, Spring, 10mm 2
Attached Images
File Type: bmp Rear Brake (Disk).bmp (308.9 KB, 110 views)
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Old 04-22-2006, 11:47 PM   #29
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Link these two threads:

http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread...22#post9222122

Here is the prop valve and some good info above. Thanks for the good info. It appears that anything without the S6M designation might be avilailable here in the states, like S6M is apparently the DC5 JDM app... so for the fronts, it's pretty obvious, the bearings and hub assemblies are interchangeable for other NA models.

If you're interested in this for the CTR, I probably have them lying around somewhere.

Put this info into nice pretty to see pictures:



Last edited by Ocelaris; 04-23-2006 at 12:01 AM..
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Old 04-23-2006, 12:05 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dergrah
Thanks for the offer but I'm an ep3 too. Was electrical plug compatible?
The electrical plug isn't compatible, they have a completely different system. I looked at both electrical schematics and couldn't make heads or tails of it, in attempting to make it work. So that combined with the moving of the hard lines, I didn't even try. But the DC5 Electrical plug is the exact same, even bought one thinking I could splice them together with the EP3. IMO not worth it, ABS works, albeit a bit off.
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Old 04-23-2006, 12:23 AM   #31
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I just bought my Prop valve, about 55$ shipped. It's funny, the vendors were asking 150$ for this.

The Stock EP3 uses a different Prop valve, but the lower civics do use it... strange. hope it fits, and/or is self explanatory on how it works.

Better example, here is the RSX foglight switch:

08V31-S6M-01035 - Acura Foglight Switch

it fits in the EP3 or any honda/acura normal switch area. S6M apparently means DC5. EP3 is like S5A or something, I forget.
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Old 04-23-2006, 12:31 AM   #32
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Do you have the parts list for the Brake Booster? On the EP3 it's 6 and 7" it says, accord lX has 8 and 9" and EX has 10" wondering if the DC5-S and DC5-R have same Brake Booster, as their Master Cylinders are the same size, but Brake booster could theoretically be larger? My dad's EX accord has some massive stomping power, and I think it's due to the larger Brake booster, MC might be larger too, but don't want to go over the ITR's size. Just thinking out loud here.
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Old 04-23-2006, 05:48 AM   #33
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Brake Master & Booster

Here it is, work your reverse part lookup magic !


01 01469-S6M-J50 POWER SET, MASTER (7"+8") 1
02 46070-SL0-G01 PLATE, SYMBOL MARK 1
03 46100-S6M-J52 CYLINDER ASSY., MASTER 1
04 46120-S0A-013 PISTON ASSY., PRIMARY 1
05 46122-S5A-J51 PISTON ASSY., SECONDARY 1
06 46135-S5A-J41 GUIDE ASSY., PISTON 1
07 46151-SB2-003 YOKE, PUSH ROD (NISSIN) 1
08 46185-SE0-003 SEAL, ROD 1
09 46191-S2K-000 PACKING, MASTER POWER 1
10 46402-S6M-J01 TUBE ASSY., MASTER POWER 1
11 46406-S6M-J01 STAY, MASTER POWER TUBE
12 46407-S84-A01 CLAMP, TUBE 1
13 46512-S70-000 PIN, PEDAL 1
14 46661-S5A-J40 RESERVOIR SET 1
15 46662-S5A-003 CAP COMP., RESERVE TANK 1
16 46665-S04-J01 GROMMET 2
17 46666-S2K-003 FILTER, BRAKE RESERVOIR 1
18 46669-S5A-003 DIAPHRAGM 1
19 46911-S70-003 PIN, LOCK (8MM) 1
20 53729-671-003 CLAMP D, 15.5MM 2
21 57173-SB0-801 O-RING, CONNECTOR 1
22 57515-S30-003 PIN, STOP 1
23 57562-SF1-003 CIRCLIP 1
24 92301-05025-0H BOLT, RECESSED, 5X25 1
25 93403-06012-08 BOLT-WASHER, 6X12
26 94001-08080-0S NUT, HEX., 8MM 2
27 94050-08080 NUT, FLANGE, 8MM 5
28 94111-08800 WASHER, SPRING, 8MM 2
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Old 04-23-2006, 02:51 PM   #34
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It's funny, the USDM DC5-S Master Cylinder is:
46100-S6M-A52

The JDM DC5-R Mastery Cylinder is:
46100-S6M-J52

5 in the 2nd to last digit sometimes mean Left, and 7 sometimes means Right.
For example the Left headlight was 5 and Right Headlight was 7... Or was it JDM was 7 and USDM was 5. There's some kooky pattern they use.


The USDM DC5-S Brake Booster is:
01469-S6M-A70 POWER SET, MASTER (7"+8")

JDM DC5-R Brake Booster is:
01469-S6M-J50 POWER SET, MASTER (7"+8")



If you don't want me hosting these elsewhere, let me know. I just find it easier for myself to have the part#s on one place with the text.

Last edited by Ocelaris; 04-23-2006 at 03:00 PM..
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Old 04-23-2006, 09:01 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dergrah
Here it is, work your reverse part lookup magic !


01 01469-S6M-J50 POWER SET, MASTER (7"+8") 1
02 46070-SL0-G01 PLATE, SYMBOL MARK 1
03 46100-S6M-J52 CYLINDER ASSY., MASTER 1
04 46120-S0A-013 PISTON ASSY., PRIMARY 1
05 46122-S5A-J51 PISTON ASSY., SECONDARY 1
06 46135-S5A-J41 GUIDE ASSY., PISTON 1
07 46151-SB2-003 YOKE, PUSH ROD (NISSIN) 1
08 46185-SE0-003 SEAL, ROD 1
09 46191-S2K-000 PACKING, MASTER POWER 1
10 46402-S6M-J01 TUBE ASSY., MASTER POWER 1
11 46406-S6M-J01 STAY, MASTER POWER TUBE
12 46407-S84-A01 CLAMP, TUBE 1
13 46512-S70-000 PIN, PEDAL 1
14 46661-S5A-J40 RESERVOIR SET 1
15 46662-S5A-003 CAP COMP., RESERVE TANK 1
16 46665-S04-J01 GROMMET 2
17 46666-S2K-003 FILTER, BRAKE RESERVOIR 1
18 46669-S5A-003 DIAPHRAGM 1
19 46911-S70-003 PIN, LOCK (8MM) 1
20 53729-671-003 CLAMP D, 15.5MM 2
21 57173-SB0-801 O-RING, CONNECTOR 1
22 57515-S30-003 PIN, STOP 1
23 57562-SF1-003 CIRCLIP 1
24 92301-05025-0H BOLT, RECESSED, 5X25 1
25 93403-06012-08 BOLT-WASHER, 6X12
26 94001-08080-0S NUT, HEX., 8MM 2
27 94050-08080 NUT, FLANGE, 8MM 5
28 94111-08800 WASHER, SPRING, 8MM 2
Thanks for putting all this info up! I was looking for this for awhile

Ehh...Canadians kick arse!

Pat
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Old 04-23-2006, 11:17 PM   #36
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I'll give you that, the two people most influential in knowledge to me have been canucks... The vast majority of the hobby is probably done south of the border, but there's an unusally high ratio of very talented members above.
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Old 04-23-2006, 11:31 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ocelaris
I'll give you that, the two people most influential in knowledge to me have been canucks... The vast majority of the hobby is probably done south of the border, but there's an unusally high ratio of very talented members above.
hey has anyone read that thread about LCA angles and such?

my lca are perpendicular to the ground right now. Which is a good thing. Since the RSX will mainly see tracks, I'm dropping it lower to improve CG. Roll center is affected because of the angled down LCA...

I hope Todd comes through with the joint adapter

PAt
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Old 04-30-2006, 07:12 PM   #38
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Put the ITR Proportioning valve in today. maybe made a difference, not sure if it was huge though. But now I have the 15/16" Master Cylinder and ITR prop valve, and that's all I can do. The ABS pump from the DC5 doesn't fit the EP3... otherwise it'd be already installed. No luck on just putting the eeprom from the ABS pump into the EP3, totally different configuration... but honestly haven't tried it, or disassembled it enough to know either way.

Some pics of the prop valve, not too bad of a job, 4 brake line fittings, definetly get yourself the right 10mm flare nut wrench, or you'll grind down the fittings. 2, 10mm bolts hold it in place. Click to blow up pics:



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Old 05-01-2006, 03:53 AM   #39
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Parallel universe ?

I feel like there is a parallel universe…

Got mine this week too. Going in next week with the type-s master and booster. Did you change the booster ? Big job ?

Thanks,

Derek
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Old 05-02-2006, 02:24 PM   #40
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Honestly, the Brembo rotor disks aren't the best in the world. they are just plain expensive. The aftermarket 2 piece rotors is a much better option, plus you shave off weight at the same time.
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Old 05-02-2006, 03:27 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dergrah
I feel like there is a parallel universe…

Got mine this week too. Going in next week with the type-s master and booster. Did you change the booster ? Big job ?

Thanks,

Derek
The booster/master cylinder was harder. If you don't have a 10mm flare nut wrench... get one now, it's a life saver... Before I had one I stripped the crap out of all my brake lines between the hard lines and the calipers swapping out the SS lines. This tool gets a much longer grip around the bolt, and has an opening to fit over the hard lines.




You can see the difference between a normal wrench and a flare nut wrench, or line wrench:



But no, nothing was hard, just tedious bleeding the brakes, and making sure the flare fittings aren't cross threaded when you put them back in. Other than that, it's not bad.

My personal reason for getting the brembo blanks, is just because I assumed we could find a cheap source. You're probably bright about the 2-piece being better and lighter, I was just trying not to spend 800$ on replacement rotors at some point. It's just a bit outrageous to pay half the price of the entire setup for replacement parts. I still have alot of meat on mine, so won't need them for years, but If an opportunity appears, I don't want to be left out.

Last edited by Ocelaris; 05-02-2006 at 03:31 PM..
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Old 05-02-2006, 07:26 PM   #42
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as far as the replacement rotors go...is it best to get the two piece set??
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Old 05-02-2006, 10:21 PM   #43
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That was the discussion. If you're in it for performance, yeah, the 2-piece is generally better, but they cost more too. Mugen has a 2-piece application. and one other company does.

It's not a question of whether it's better, it comes down to price since I'll never be tracking the car.
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Old 05-02-2006, 10:53 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ocelaris
That was the discussion. If you're in it for performance, yeah, the 2-piece is generally better, but they cost more too. Mugen has a 2-piece application. and one other company does.

It's not a question of whether it's better, it comes down to price since I'll never be tracking the car.

Thanks for the info.

However, as far as getting or finding a replacement rotor, which is more available or even attainable? In other words, is it worth it just to get ITR rotors and source them from Japan? or is it worth it to get the 2 piece rotors because they are easier to obtain?
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Old 05-02-2006, 11:30 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ocelaris
That was the discussion. If you're in it for performance, yeah, the 2-piece is generally better, but they cost more too. Mugen has a 2-piece application. and one other company does.

It's not a question of whether it's better, it comes down to price since I'll never be tracking the car.
sorry but mugen doesn't have a 2 piece rotor. project mu does.
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Old 05-03-2006, 07:50 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DC5ITR329
sorry but mugen doesn't have a 2 piece rotor. project mu does.
My bad, I'm not too up on the availability of the nicer rotors...

That's the point of this thread, even sourcing from japan, the rotors weren't much cheaper than the mugens which are easily accessible from king motorsports. don't know much about the project mu rotors.
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Old 05-07-2006, 09:48 PM   #47
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I'll be doing the TYPE-S MC and p. valve sometime this week. I'll do the Buddy Club N+ while I'm out there too. Time to get the EP3 back on the streets!

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Old 05-08-2006, 12:09 AM   #48
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You know Victor, If you would just wait another 3 weeks, my Hefeweizen Beer I made, will be conditioned in the bottle and ready to drink Not that you want to wait, but I'll bet you a big liter bottle... my beer is ready before your N2s go on j/k But if you need a bleeder bitch, give a ring

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Old 05-08-2006, 10:10 AM   #49
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http://boomplustoys.net/jdm_rsx3.shtml

You can order the DC5-R rotors here. Rear are cheap enough that I'm not going to make a 2 part rotor for the rear.


Derek
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Old 05-08-2006, 11:26 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dergrah
http://boomplustoys.net/jdm_rsx3.shtml

You can order the DC5-R rotors here. Rear are cheap enough that I'm not going to make a 2 part rotor for the rear.


Derek
You know that it's Per Rotor price?
Front: $265USD/$371CDN
Rear: $115USD/$161CDN

So $530 for the fronts and $230 for the rear + shipping... about 800$ after all is said and done... I can understand 300-400$ for all the way around, but I'm used to the 100$ a pair rotors from the local auto store...

Probably doesn't have much bearing on your 2-piece, but you're right, for that price, the rears are definetly not worth making one for.
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