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Old 11-19-2005, 02:18 PM   #1
Ju5t Ep3 Pr4ct1c3
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DIY - Rear Pads Removal & Replacement

I realize that these are not the exact same brakes as the rsxs but I believe that they are similar so this should help you guys out. Base guys here ya go!!!

This is a do-it-yourself guide for removing and replacing your rear brake pads on an 02 Honda Civic Si. I cannot emphasize how important it is that you know what you are doing. Improperly installing brake rotors or brake componets in general can seriously hurt or KILL YOU. Research before you install.

With that said, this is a DIY. I am not a professional mechanic but I have done this type of work before. This is only a guide this is not an instruction manual from a manufacturer. Other member's input is welcome in order to make this guide as easy and as safe as possible. Do not hold me responsible for an inproper install of your brakes, braking components, etc.

First you need to know the various parts in the brake system before you can get down and dirty.



Yellow: Brake Rotor
Blue: Brake Pad (what your are removing and replacing)
Red: Brake Caliper

Pads of choice for me were Hawk HPS brake pads. It would be best to resurface your rotors or at least sand them down with some sand paper so the pads seat properly.

Tools. The right tools make a hard job easy. The wrong tools make a easy job needlessly hard. You need the following to completely remove and reinstall your brake pads:

(FYI the "drive" is the opposite side of the socket. It is what your ratchet looks into. 3/8, and 1/2 Drives will be used)

(1) Jack
(2) Jack Stands
Choks or something to keep the car from rolling
(1) 1/2 Inch Drive Breaker Bar
(1) 1/2 Inch Drive Torque Wrench
(1) 1/2 Inch Drive Ratchet
(1) 1/2-3/8 Inch Drive Adapter (unless you have a 1/2 inch drive socket)
(1) 1/2 Inch Extension (optional)
(1) 19mm Socket 1/2 Inch Drive (1/2 Drive Strongly Recommended)
(1) 14mm Socket 3/8 Inch Drive
(1) 14mm Combo Wrench
(1) Flat Head Screwdriver (very large tip)
(1) Orange Bottle of CRC Disc Brake Quiet
(1) Small Bottle/Packet of Brake Grease
(1) Rag (used to clean excess silicon and Disc Brake Quiet)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------

REAR PADS:

Unfortunately removing the rear brake pads requires that you remove the caliper. Start by loosening the lugs on the rear wheels that you will be removing. Do not remove the lugs just break them loose. Remember to put the choks or blocks of wood in place to keep the car from moving. Here is a photo (pic of the front but remove the lugs in the rear just like you would do in the front, same thing):



Next it is time to lift the car to a comfortable height so that you can work on it. The rear lifting point is located in the middle portion of the rear of the car. It is an actual hook. Here is the lifting point for the rear section of the car:



Remember to use JACK STANDS to hold the car. A jack is only used to lift the car. Not hold it. Never use a jack to hold the car while you work on it. Place the jack stands on the SEAM WELD located underneath along the side of the car. They will stick out farther then the rest of the seam. Here is a picture (pic of front caliper/wheel area but the seam looks the same in the rear):

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Old 11-19-2005, 02:19 PM   #2
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The car should be lifted and supported by jack stands at this point. Now it is time to remove your sickass wheels :mtongue: exposing the brakes. Place the lugs along with the wheels so you do not loose them. (front wheel pic, but same as the back in removal)

Removal:


After the wheel is off the brakes should now be exposed. If the parking brake is pulled now would be a good time to release it. After you realease the parking brake locate the two 14mm mounting bolts for the rear caliper and use the 3/8 ratchet with 14mm socket for the upper one and also the 14mm combo wrench to remove the lower one. Make sure you are turning them the right way, they will take some strength to remove. Pictures:

Upper Rear 14mm Mounting Bolt:




Lower Rear 14mm Mounting Bolt:




After you remove the bolts do not take the calipers off. First before you remove the caliper you need to remove the 10mm bracket bolt that holds the fluid line as well as the 10mm bracket bolt that holds the parking brake line. With the two bolts fully removed place the caliper on top of the rear dust cover. NEVER let a caliper hang by the fluid line. Unfortunately for this step my camera bailed on me. In order to find these two brackets just follow both the brake lines and parking brake lines back towards the car and you will run right into the brackets.

Now you should be looking at a rotor with a caliper on top of it. Take the caliper and push both pads out. Remove the pads by simply pulling them out. Inspect the actual pad material and how the pads wore down. Improperly seated/installed pads will wear on one side more than the other. Also inspect the piston and the rubber dust seals. If there is any leak at all you need to either rebuild the caliper (its a slow bitchy process :mcry or buy a new caliper.

Next it is time to push the piston back into the caliper. Unlike the front piston the rear piston is not pushed in with a C clamp. Use your flat head screw driver with the large tip to turn the piston clockwise back into the caliper. It will be difficult at first but will get easier as you progress. Here are some pictures:



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Old 11-19-2005, 02:20 PM   #3
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Ok. You have successfully removed your old brake pads and pushed the piston into the caliper. It is now time to prep and install the new pads. Start by using your Brake Grease to liberally apply grease to where the new pads will slide into the caliper. They are small steel brackets called pad retainers. After applying your Brake Grease locate your new pads. Use your CRC Disc Brake Quiet to apply the orange lubricant to the back of the disc brake pad shims. Shims = Back of pad. Be very cautious not to get any Brake Grease or Disc Brake Quiet on the rotor or the pads. Here are some pictures for guidance: (pics are of the front pads but the process is the same)







Once you have the back of the brake pads lubricated place both the inboard and outboard pads into place in the caliper. Now you need to fit the caliper back over the rotor. This was a little tricky for my friend and I. What you need to do is pull the caliper apart a little. Where the outboard pad (one that is closest to you) is pull towards you. The caliper should actually open up more. After doing this you can re-fit the caliper back onto the rotor and began tightening the caliper bolts and the fluid line bolts.

*Please do not mistake one pad for the other or put them in backwards. You have the other side brake assembly for reference to look at.*

Torque Specs:
Lug Nuts: 80 Foot Pounds
Small Rotor Mounting Screws: 7.2 Foot Pounds
Brake Line Bracket Bolt: 16 Foot Pounds
Parking Bracket Bolt: 7.2 Foot Pounds
Caliper Mounting Bolts 14mm: 41 Foot Pounds

Aight you are now done. Do the same thing on the other side. I strongly recommend that you burnish/brake-in the new pads according to what you manufacturer recommends. Also you will have to pump the brake 3-5 times to get a firm pedal so do not drive off right away. Pull the ebrake and sit there pumping the pedal till the pads make contact with the rotors. Be very cautious driving because until the pads are fully broken in you will have almost no brakes!!! Also the pads/rotors are cold during the first drive so please be careful!!!

This is a comprehensive DIY for installing Rear Brake Pads made by me: Ju5t Ep3 Pr4ct1c3. I have no life :mgrin: . Big thanx to Jake for the help during the install.

Enjoy the Diy

Need More Brake Stuff: Here you go you bastards

DIY: R & R Front Pads
DIY: R & R Rear Brake Rotors
DIY: R & R Front Brake Rotors
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Last edited by Ju5t Ep3 Pr4ct1c3; 11-20-2005 at 02:27 PM..
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Old 11-19-2005, 02:52 PM   #4
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awesome review man. Thx.
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Old 11-19-2005, 08:34 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhova4hustla
awesome review man. Thx.
No prob.
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Old 11-20-2005, 01:00 AM   #6
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If I may add, a rear brake caliper tool can make "pushing" the piston in MUCH easier.

One like in this pic can be bought pretty cheap. They aren't always perfect, but generally work well and are probably a bit safer than prying with a screwdriver.

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Old 11-20-2005, 02:52 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VTEC_Inside
If I may add, a rear brake caliper tool can make "pushing" the piston in MUCH easier.

One like in this pic can be bought pretty cheap. They aren't always perfect, but generally work well and are probably a bit safer than prying with a screwdriver.

So thats what those little cube things are for lol. Ive seen them b4 but didnt even know. Thanx man.
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Old 11-20-2005, 10:16 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ju5t Ep3 Pr4ct1c3
So thats what those little cube things are for lol. Ive seen them b4 but didnt even know. Thanx man.
Lol... Yeah, they are kinda weird looking.

You just use an extenstion on a 3/8 ratchet and plug it into the center square on whatever side works for you.

The different sides have different pin positions for different calipers. The "cube" may not have one that lines up 100% but generally there is one close enough to make life much easier.
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Old 04-25-2006, 03:35 PM   #9
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i was gonna do the rears the other day but did not want to open it up if i could not get it torqued again

just a problem with removing the caliper
- the top bolt i can access so i can remove it and re torque it, but its a tight area to get my torque wrench into
- the bottom bolt has a line in the way...i THINK its the handbrake one?...it basically goes over the lower bolt so you cant access it can this just be removed? (you can see it in the pic below, its the line with the little rubber covering it)..any tips?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ju5t Ep3 Pr4ct1c3
Lower Rear 14mm Mounting Bolt:
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Old 10-21-2006, 08:28 PM   #10
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just finished changing both front and rear pads, these threads helped a lot....+rep

btw, for the rsx at least, the handbrake bracket bolt and the brake line bracket bolts are 12mm, not 10mm, might want to edit it. i was sitting under the car looking for a 10mm bolt but couldnt find one, i thought my instincts were wrong when the brackets you described were not 10mm
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Old 03-02-2008, 04:21 PM   #11
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lol u turn them to push them in...could have used that info yesterday
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Old 03-12-2008, 03:01 AM   #12
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thanx 4 the info...i'm doin my brakes this weekend...
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Old 03-14-2008, 02:41 PM   #13
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great write...did it with ease thanks to you
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Old 03-14-2008, 02:52 PM   #14
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lol u turn them to push them in...could have used that info yesterday
LOL thats funny imagine you trying to push them back in

and the bolts that go into the sliding caliper pins are 16 or 18 ft. lbs, if i remember correctly...


dont need to remove the bracket, just the sliding caliper..
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Old 10-14-2008, 08:58 PM   #15
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cant see those pix anymore. reupload them!!!
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Old 10-14-2008, 09:04 PM   #16
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word please reload I'm doing mine soon.
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Old 03-21-2010, 04:23 AM   #17
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hey bro if u still have those pix it would be of great help if u loaded them up oh n do u know how to adjust the hand brake? thanks
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Old 04-22-2010, 07:15 PM   #18
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I've been looking for this, thanks!!! I'm doing mine tommorrow
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Old 04-22-2010, 08:25 PM   #19
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pics?>
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Old 04-23-2010, 07:23 AM   #20
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nice write up regardless of the pics not working.

never used that rear brake caliper tool. big ass flathead screwdriver and turn that bitch like a screw works great.
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Old 06-27-2010, 10:21 AM   #21
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doing my brakes today...even though ive done plenty of brake jobs i always like having a first hand referance to go by incase of unforseen problems...especially when its my baby
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Old 06-28-2010, 06:56 PM   #22
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nice write up.. And these are some of the EASIEST rear pads i've EVER replaced...
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Old 08-07-2010, 12:54 PM   #23
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Correct torque

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rey M. View Post
LOL thats funny imagine you trying to push them back in

and the bolts that go into the sliding caliper pins are 16 or 18 ft. lbs, if i remember correctly...


dont need to remove the bracket, just the sliding caliper..
YES!! Not 41ft-lbs unless you want to add "strip out caliper bolts and spend hundreds of dollars on new calipers" to this DIY. All three bolts are 16 ft-lbs. Page 1421 (19-21) of the shop manual. Also to screw in the caliper's piston I used a big and small L shaped Stanley prybar..worked perfectly after nearly doingdamage with a hammer and screwdriver.
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Old 01-15-2011, 02:18 PM   #24
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i changed my rears the other day and have now encountered a problem. my rear pads are touching the rotor at all times, even when the e brake is not pulled up. there's a burning smell coming from them too
there was also smoke coming from them when i got out of the car earlier
what did i do wrong?
thanks
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Old 01-25-2011, 02:16 PM   #25
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nevermind
problem fixed
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