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Old 11-09-2008, 12:46 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsxer63 View Post
I had the same problem when we put our door panels back on... pretty easy to check and reattach.
yep it was the clip and also the little metal clip by the actuator...its all good now
thanks
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Old 11-09-2008, 08:30 PM   #77
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i had to redo everything, the gold rod is a bitch i even cut my hand when it poped out...so be careful.
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Old 03-02-2009, 03:35 PM   #78
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those 3 fucking screws are pissing me off
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Old 03-02-2009, 04:01 PM   #79
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The one on the side of the door?
Those were a pain. . I used the Dewalt to get those out. .
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Old 03-02-2009, 05:34 PM   #80
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Originally Posted by kavmon3 View Post
Thanks for the write up.
Does anyone have any suggestions on how to remove the 3 screws on the side of the door? I tried wd-40, but still no luck.
take a drill bit get a hammer and hit that shit a few times hard and it should come right out
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Old 03-02-2009, 05:36 PM   #81
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Originally Posted by yukihiro View Post
how the fuck did you guys get the gold rod off

i managed to replace the actuator without taking the gold rod off, but it was a pain in the ass

i swear i was going to break the plastic piece that the gold rod goes into if i tried to pull it any harder

took me a few hours to complete everything because of that fuckin gold rod. i eventually gave up on it and used a right angle screwdriver to take off the screw holding the metal plate in place. then i couldn't see how that fuckin other metal piece goes into place, so i took me forever to figure that shit out...

the people who made the diy guides make it sound like the gold rod slips out like nothing. not even a disclaimer saying that it may be difficult to pull out. that single rod made the actuator replacement a living hell


of course, i've ran into a single problem on many other installs, but usually theres a disclaimer and a hint on how to do that one thing...

i'm just glad i got the shit working


i sprayed a shit load of wd40 on it and waited half hour and it just popped off
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Old 03-02-2009, 05:49 PM   #82
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really hey,,,yea i dont have a electric drill... i ll try to spray it and w/ wd40 hammer it tomrrow ... lol
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Old 03-02-2009, 07:49 PM   #83
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really hey,,,yea i dont have a electric drill... i ll try to spray it and w/ wd40 hammer it tomrrow ... lol
the wd 40 is for the gold rod inside the door
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Old 03-02-2009, 08:44 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by igaryy View Post
the wd 40 is for the gold rod inside the door
damn, yours just popped off? i seriously couldnt get that thing to budge... for 2 damn days lol

i ended up just swapping out the actuator without completely removing everything. it was a bitch to do it that way
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Old 03-03-2009, 09:47 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yukihiro View Post
damn, yours just popped off? i seriously couldnt get that thing to budge... for 2 damn days lol

i ended up just swapping out the actuator without completely removing everything. it was a bitch to do it that way
i wd40 the area where the gold rod was attached to the plastic
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Old 03-08-2009, 06:50 PM   #86
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Stupid gold rod

Ok, I just finished replacing my actuator. Overall, its not that difficult, but that stupid gold bar makes it frustrating.


OK, so for the install, you'll have to pop the gold rod out of the plastic clip. The plastic clip does not need to be popped off the chassis.

You need ALOT of force to get the gold rod to slide out. It will NOT slide out just like that silver rod.


So, here is what you do to get that stupid rod out.

1. Unclip the plastic clip from gold rod. (In this picture, the plastici clip is blue)

2. Rotate the plastic clip.

3. Use an allen key and use it as a lever to PRY the gold rod out of the plastic clip (or anything else that can fit in there)

Like this:



Here it is popped out:


As you can see, it has a little head on the end of it, which is why it doesn't slide out as easily as the silver one did.


Good luck
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Old 03-08-2009, 06:59 PM   #87
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Nice!
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Old 03-11-2009, 12:19 PM   #88
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w00t w00t lol i got everything off thanks to all of you! haha now i was wondering where you guys got your parts from :P i have called about all the dealers around my area and they have priced me all from 60-70 bucks. is there any where to order it off/on line for cheaper? thanks

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Old 03-11-2009, 12:29 PM   #89
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Originally Posted by Dk_mini View Post
w00t w00t lol i got everything off thanks to all of you! haha now i was wondering where you guys got your parts from :P i have called about all the dealers around my area and they have priced me all from 60-70 bucks. is there any where to order it off line for cheaper? thanks
well i got mine at an acura dealership and i believe it was around 40 bones
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Old 03-14-2009, 11:49 AM   #90
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so i got everything working. diy was a great help but now the door handle from the inside isnt working...

everything is back on including tabs, could i have possibly stretched out the cable? when i try to open it, i can see that its pulling the metal tab like how its supposed to but it isnt pulling it hard enough. what should i do?
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Old 03-14-2009, 11:56 AM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quevaj View Post
so i got everything working. diy was a great help but now the door handle from the inside isnt working...

everything is back on including tabs, could i have possibly stretched out the cable? when i try to open it, i can see that its pulling the metal tab like how its supposed to but it isnt pulling it hard enough. what should i do?
Retrace your steps backward. It seems like one of the rods are not right. It sounds like there is too much slack or something. . So. . just go backward and see if there is something overlapping wrong, or missing? Is the purple clip on tight? Let us know if you find something. .
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Old 03-14-2009, 03:46 PM   #92
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well dont i feel like an ass. i screwed on the door handle before i put on the door handle just to test and make sure everything worked. didnt work.

after an hour and a half trying to figure out what i did wrong, i said fuck it, i thought i stretched out the cable too far, therefore it wasnt tight enough to pull the lock.

i put the door panel back on and everything was fine...shit. i guess the door panel makes it that much tighter that it can pull the lock.
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Old 03-19-2009, 09:50 PM   #93
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I'm having this same exact problem. I put the passenger side door panel and handle back on and now I can't open the door from the inside. I took off the panel to inspect: all the rods are hooked back in place, no clips are broken, every thing appears fine. The cable just feels like it has too much slack in it. Shouldn't I be able to manually pull it forward and open the door? I tested the actuator and it is working.
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Old 03-19-2009, 10:20 PM   #94
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nbeinh i know your problem it happen to me too, the answer you dont want to here is that you have to take everything appart...you know when you take off the door handle, there is a plug and beside there is a cable follow the cable, it goes in the mecanisme that is attach to the door lock actuator, so take appart everything and unscrew the small black screw that is holding the mecanisme and the actuator togeter, your gonna see the white thing that move back and forth when you pull on the cable, well thats the piece that you dindt put in the right place, you have to push it more farther....you will see what i mean when you take it appart
glad to help you
sorry for the english....im from canada, i speak french lol

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Old 03-21-2009, 07:43 PM   #95
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Awesome. I took everything apart and found where the issue was. The gold metal "switch" that attaches to the white platic around the actuator was in the wrong location and needed to be moved farther down. I can't think of a better way to explain it. If you have this problem, see the attached pic with the red line pointing to where the metal switch needs to be. I tried to be careful in the first place and remember how everything came apart but I wasn't prepared for all these other parts that connect to the actuator and have to be removed in order to replace it.

I also uploaded pics of the entire door lock assembly pulled out and with the gold metal portion off. I recommend removing the black plastic that contains the door lock rod. This makes it much easier to get the door lock rod back up in place. There is only one black clip holding it in that is easy to get off and back on.
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Old 03-21-2009, 08:00 PM   #96
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Those damn 3 screws!

For people who are having problems with the 3 screws:

Make sure you have a screwdriver or phillips drill bit that is exactly the same size as the screw. So when it's inserted it fits perfectly and there is no play, play will let it walk out and strip it. These have alot of factory torque on them cause its the door latch so it is a bitch. I even bought an impact screwdriver (that you hit with a hammer and it turns the screw) and it wasn't working. I ended up using a bit that came with it that fit the screw perfect, tapped it with a hammer to make sure it was completely seated in the screw and turned it with an adjustable wrench for leverage. Might not work for others but worked for me with no drill.

Goodluck!
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Old 03-21-2009, 09:19 PM   #97
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yea those screw are a pain. i started to strip them but then found a perfect philips head tip for my drill and they came out
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Old 03-28-2009, 05:44 AM   #98
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i just did mine, i did it from 500am to 930am for the both doors and the trunk it was a bitch to get that gold rod out every think elas went
alright but then agan i thought it would be faster

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Old 04-01-2009, 02:39 AM   #99
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I replaced my passenger door actuator today. I didnt have to remove the gold rod. I just pulled everything out as much as possible and switch the actuators. Overall, it wasnt hard..just need some time and patience. Took me around an hour to finish everything.
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Old 04-05-2009, 11:55 PM   #100
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F yeahhh dude! Same color and same problem. lmao

Can't wait to do this this weekend! Thank you sooooo much!
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