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Old 11-29-2006, 10:16 AM   #401
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i dont get how the rear was so hard. we unbolted the sway and then moved it out of the way and i didnt even take off my header. i just lifted up the engine by the oil pan and a block of wood, unboled some bracket that attaches the motor mount to the tranny and took the whole thing off. then slid it back up, manuevered it in place and it was good. i ono how the rear was so hard.

btw I LOVE THESE MOOUNTS. NO VIBS!
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Old 11-29-2006, 11:57 AM   #402
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LickyMYwalker View Post
i dont get how the rear was so hard. we unbolted the sway and then moved it out of the way and i didnt even take off my header. i just lifted up the engine by the oil pan and a block of wood, unboled some bracket that attaches the motor mount to the tranny and took the whole thing off. then slid it back up, manuevered it in place and it was good. i ono how the rear was so hard.

btw I LOVE THESE MOOUNTS. NO VIBS!

Was no big deal, except lying on my back and trying to find the tool I needed without any room to move and look.....
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Old 11-30-2006, 09:58 PM   #403
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looking good!
I want a set.
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Old 12-02-2006, 11:39 PM   #404
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How many of you - if anyone - used threadlock on your motor mount bolts?

The Helms says nothing about using threadlock, so I didn't use any.

Just don't want those things shaking loose.
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Old 12-04-2006, 06:16 PM   #405
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I didn't and I have never had a problem running the solid mount kits and pulling motors about once a race.
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Old 12-04-2006, 06:18 PM   #406
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paul if you use threadlock make sure it dries up first and then start threading or something like that i forgot how it works, use a medium strength so your able to easily break it loose by hand if you dont have air tools.
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Old 12-04-2006, 06:36 PM   #407
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Originally Posted by paulkramer View Post
How many of you - if anyone - used threadlock on your motor mount bolts?

The Helms says nothing about using threadlock, so I didn't use any.

Just don't want those things shaking loose.

Not required.
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Old 12-04-2006, 07:51 PM   #408
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Sounds like consensus is that threadlock is not needed - although Chris pulls his motor frequently which means he's always re-tightening the bolts LOL.

I really don't feel like getting under the car now. It's about 19 degrees (fahrenheit) here.

Though I'm still obsessing about whether or not I want to reinstall the OEM rear mount or maybe install the front mount and see if either of those actions will reduce vibrations. I know it sounds nuts to think that the front mount will help reduce vibes, but I think it might distribute the forces more evenly...
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Old 12-05-2006, 05:20 PM   #409
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When did these come out?
http://www.clubrsx.com/merchant.mvc?..._Code=ARSXENEM
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Old 12-05-2006, 06:11 PM   #410
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just today
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Old 12-05-2006, 07:33 PM   #411
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I saw their ads in magezines. I would've defintely have bought the satin billet but alas, I bought the steel ones already. Oh well. Can't wait to get them on.
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Old 12-05-2006, 08:15 PM   #412
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Is there any difference in construction?
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Old 12-05-2006, 08:19 PM   #413
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Quote:
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I added them to the store today, although i dont know if they are going to make a front mount in billet time will tell
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Old 12-05-2006, 08:22 PM   #414
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Is there any difference in construction?
Well, the black ones are made from welded steel and these appear to me milled from aluminum.
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Old 12-05-2006, 10:07 PM   #415
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erik loza View Post
Well, the black ones are made from welded steel and these appear to me milled from aluminum.
Yeah.....that's cool, I wonder if there are any other differences, such as redesigned welds between the brackets and the cylindrical portions.
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Old 12-06-2006, 03:05 PM   #416
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Yeah.....that's cool, I wonder if there are any other differences, such as redesigned welds between the brackets and the cylindrical portions.
they appear to be billet which means they are cut by machine from a chunk of solid aluminum, that means no welds
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Old 12-06-2006, 03:31 PM   #417
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seth812 View Post
they appear to be billet which means they are cut by machine from a chunk of solid aluminum, that means no welds
Ahh... thanks for the clarification. I did not know that about billet.

Now I wish I had these instead of the steel.......oh well. The steels are lifetime warrantied too.
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Old 12-06-2006, 03:43 PM   #418
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On motor mounts, I would always prefer steel over aluminum. Maybe not an issue on our displacement motors, but that is my preference.
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Old 12-06-2006, 03:45 PM   #419
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I will find out later today if they are going to make the front mount in Billet aluminum
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Old 12-06-2006, 03:50 PM   #420
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mine should be coming soon.

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Old 12-06-2006, 03:53 PM   #421
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erik loza View Post
On motor mounts, I would always prefer steel over aluminum. Maybe not an issue on our displacement motors, but that is my preference.
I feel better about just placing my order for the front steel mount.....

Hell, $386 for four motor mounts is enough for me!
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Old 12-06-2006, 06:02 PM   #422
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the automatic kit for base owners is due out approximately Dec. 20th

and if they release the billet front mount it will be early next january
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Old 12-06-2006, 07:47 PM   #423
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Just installed mine today. Will have to search the thread about where to ground the wire, I'm sure i'll figure it out. Too bad I can't drive it till next week.

P.S. Hit a dog and had front end damage, so it's back from the shop and I have to put it back together.
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Old 12-16-2006, 12:07 AM   #424
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Quote:
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im not sure how that is possible. i tried from the bottom and the top and just took the battery and intake out and pulled it out from the side.
How in the hell did you do that? I'm working from underneath, so I should be able to push the front mount out that way, but it needs to go up far enough to clear the mounting bracket on the subframe.......I've practically dropped the subframe out of the car; it's a few inches lower than normal, but it's still not far enough to move the mount past the radiator fan and the subframe bracket........

Anyone? I really don't want to drop the subframe completely - I don't have the resources to get it back in! Not to mention all the other stuff I will have to disconnect in order to remove it.
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Old 12-16-2006, 03:03 AM   #425
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Removing the battery and intake is the key....move some hoses and pull it out towards the side. It will come out, just keep wiggling.
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