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Old 04-17-2006, 06:23 PM   #101
chunky
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seth812
the rear is plastic for sure, looks like ABS to me
scratch the surface of it. I think you'll find otherwise.
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Old 04-17-2006, 06:26 PM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chunky
scratch the surface of it. I think you'll find otherwise.
it doesn't weigh nearly enough to be aluminum
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Old 04-17-2006, 06:38 PM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seth812
it doesn't weigh nearly enough to be aluminum
I remember thinking the same thing, till I observed where I had inadvertantly scratched the black coating off.

Cast aluminum can be quite light.
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Old 04-17-2006, 06:44 PM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chunky
I remember thinking the same thing, till I observed where I had inadvertantly scratched the black coating off.

Cast aluminum can be quite light.
maybe it has an aluminum core? all i know is, it is plastic on the outside. you must have scratched pretty deep.
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Old 04-17-2006, 07:03 PM   #105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seth812
maybe it has an aluminum core? all i know is, it is plastic on the outside. you must have scratched pretty deep.
yeah, it was more than just surface abrasion. Probably from having to pry the mount in and out of that engine/trans bracket with the damn ES inserts on the mount.
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Old 04-17-2006, 07:06 PM   #106
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well ive got both downstairs so ill check em out later i just got home from doing my alignment
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Old 04-17-2006, 08:04 PM   #107
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Did you haft to drop ur subframe to put the rear mount in?
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Old 04-17-2006, 08:21 PM   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeD
Did you haft to drop ur subframe to put the rear mount in?
nope. rear mount is always the easiest for me.

Header clerance might be an issue, but you can typically work around it.
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Old 04-17-2006, 08:36 PM   #109
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yea work around it is what i did and dropping the subframe is probably a whole lot easier anyways
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Old 04-17-2006, 08:42 PM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chunky
nope. rear mount is always the easiest for me.

Header clerance might be an issue, but you can typically work around it.

even with a RH? Would u suggest doint the rear mount first?
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Old 04-17-2006, 09:18 PM   #111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeD
even with a RH? Would u suggest doint the rear mount first?
I'm not sure what i'd suggest. I know that the last time I did this, I let the engine hang by the two side mounts while I gooped up my stock front & rear. I have a lot more experience working on k-series platforms than most though seeing as i've pulled & reinstalled engines into ep3's and dc5's about 10 times within the last year.

I would say go one at a time. It doesn't really matter front v.s. rear though.
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Old 04-18-2006, 08:20 AM   #112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluej511
yea work around it is what i did and dropping the subframe is probably a whole lot easier anyways
LOL - dropping the subframe is easy - getting it back in place is the hard part!
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Old 04-18-2006, 09:40 AM   #113
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why does everyone say that?? its easy to put it back on, even when the car was just on jack stands lol
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Old 04-18-2006, 11:57 AM   #114
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Originally Posted by Djstorm100
why does everyone say that?? its easy to put it back on, even when the car was just on jack stands lol
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Old 04-18-2006, 02:20 PM   #115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chunky
I know that the last time I did this, I let the engine hang by the two side mounts while I gooped up my stock front & rear.
Are you saying that you didn't additionally support the engine/subframe?!

I'm asking because I really don't want to rely on the oil pan for support when I get into replacing mounts...
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Old 04-18-2006, 04:40 PM   #116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paulkramer
Are you saying that you didn't additionally support the engine/subframe?!

I'm asking because I really don't want to rely on the oil pan for support when I get into replacing mounts...
yep. There is actually a pad on the subframe that the oil pan rests on if it even drops that low. As i recall, the engine was supported fully by the side mounts. And that was with my busted passenger mount!

Either way, the oil pan is fine for supporting the motor. just use a block of wood.
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Old 04-18-2006, 06:49 PM   #117
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Cool. I imagine if I remove only one mount at a time, the engine won't drop much at all. Probably have to use a prybar to get it back to together, but that's not a biggie.
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Old 04-18-2006, 06:50 PM   #118
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do the sides first its super easy
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Old 04-18-2006, 08:13 PM   #119
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Yeah i am probally going to do them first and then take it to my buddies shop with a lift and do the rear
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Old 04-19-2006, 01:32 AM   #120
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i order the 75A mounts....not sold on here...i will see if i can break the rear mount this summer or shall i say put it to the real test....
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Old 04-19-2006, 02:40 AM   #121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by palmerblock
i order the 75A mounts....not sold on here...i will see if i can break the rear mount this summer or shall i say put it to the real test....
Lol yeah test these out

If the 75A hold up I will probably buy them
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Old 04-19-2006, 06:18 AM   #122
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palmer let us know how the vibration is, i think 60a is enough for me even if i put more power down it should be enough and if its not i can always sell em and get the 75a
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Old 04-19-2006, 08:15 AM   #123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluej511
palmer let us know how the vibration is, i think 60a is enough for me even if i put more power down it should be enough and if its not i can always sell em and get the 75a
he's probably not too worried about vibration with his setup, lol
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Old 04-19-2006, 10:40 PM   #124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chunky
nope. rear mount is always the easiest for me.

Header clerance might be an issue, but you can typically work around it.
I think you stand alone on that one chunky the rear is the biggest bitch IMO.
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Old 04-20-2006, 12:28 AM   #125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by palmerblock
i order the 75A mounts....not sold on here...i will see if i can break the rear mount this summer or shall i say put it to the real test....
I dont know man I think that might be pushing it. The street kit is good enough. Do you drag RAce often? If that's all you're about then I guess.
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