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Old 12-29-2018, 05:06 PM   #1
Jarobata
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Headlight connection is loose

The plug for my drivers side headlight is loose. I was stumped as to how to fix it after swapping the bulb and checking the fuses and finally figured out if I moved the plug to just the right position the headlight would come on. What part should I replace to fix this? Do I just need a new x-clip or do I need a to replace the plug (which seems like it would be a huge job)?
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Old 12-29-2018, 08:42 PM   #2
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Do you mean the actual connector is loose? If so, you could just look for another Honda with the same bulb at a junkyard and swap the connectors. Just leave a bit of wire on there and solder it to your existing harness.
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Old 12-31-2018, 04:48 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mfarmakas17 View Post
Do you mean the actual connector is loose? If so, you could just look for another Honda with the same bulb at a junkyard and swap the connectors. Just leave a bit of wire on there and solder it to your existing harness.
I have to push the connector on with my hand to get the headlight to turn on, it seems like the female part of the connector isn't as snug as it needs to be. I really don't want to cut into the wiring and try to solder on a new connector. Has anyone else had this problem and solved it without cutting into the wiring?
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Old 02-23-2019, 01:55 AM   #4
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hes telling you how to fix the problem. The clips give out due to wear and tear. Get it done professionally if your too afraid to fix it yourself
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Old 02-23-2019, 02:39 PM   #5
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So I've been slowly gathering what I need to complete this repair as I haven't found anything online detailing how to do this.

First I ordered the plastic adapter and pigtail:

Adapter: 33116-S6M-003
Pigtail: 04320-SP0-G10

Basically you build the plug by sliding in the pigtail connectors into the plastic adapter. Unfortunately, you have to buy all of this in bulk so I have 10 pigtails and 5 adapters. Double unfortunately, there are two types of pigtails and I didn't know which to pick, it turns out you need both. One is a mirror image of the other.

Second Pigtail: 04320-SP0-K10

I also purchased the Honda Lithium dielectric grease: 08798-9001

After a bunch of research I've seen people swear you should always solder and others say you should always crimp when making connections in a car which vibrates. Soldering is a pain so I elected to go with crimping, I purchased the following:

Titan Tools 11477 Ratcheting Wire Terminal Crimper
Gardner Bender 16-14 Waterproof Butt Splice
URBEST 530 Pcs 2:1 Heat Shrink Tubing Tube Sleeving

I'm probably around $100 deep at this point...

The second set of pigtails haven't arrived yet, once I complete the replacement I'll post back with my results. I hope this helps someone else in the future.
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Old 03-14-2019, 11:52 AM   #6
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Installation was a success, headlight has been working as expected. I dipped one of each type of pigtail into the dielectric grease and then inserted into the plastic plug, then I pushed grease into the various holes to plug it up, wiping off the excess when I was done. Before heading down to the car I crimped on a butt connector to each pigtail and slid a heat shrink tube over both wires. If I was going to do it again, I would probably get non-heat shrink butt connectors and then get tubes which I could shrink over each wire individually. I took a picture of the existing connector to be sure I knew which color wire went into which side, the new pigtails are all red while the existing wires are red and black. I snipped the existing wires as close to the plug as possible and stripped the new ends. Once I was ready to crimp, I realized I needed help. As seems to be the case with all things automotive, they made the existing wire as short as possible so it was difficult to hold the butt connector on and crimp it at the same time while inside the engine bay. With a helper I was able to crimp the wires successfully. The other issue with the short length was heat shrinking. I didn't have a heat gun so I used a candle stick lighter to shrink the butt crimps and the large heat shrink tube. A heat gun would have made this much easier and done a better job, I would spring for one in the future if I did this again. Once I was done heat shrinking I wrapped the whole thing in electrical tape. I really didn't want to remove the battery (I was working on the driver's side) but that would have made the whole job much easier, especially if I didn't have a helper.

If you're working on this in the future and have any questions feel free to reach out. I've also got spare parts now that might be of use.
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Old 03-14-2019, 12:31 PM   #7
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Congrats on getting it done!

So after all of that hassle and money, would you still take this route over a 5 minute cutting and soldering task?
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Old 03-14-2019, 12:37 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mfarmakas17 View Post
Congrats on getting it done!

So after all of that hassle and money, would you still take this route over a 5 minute cutting and soldering task?
The part that took me the most time was figuring out what I needed to do the work, and even being sure that this was what needed to be done to solve my problem. Looking back I've had this issue for years, I changed many bulbs and didn't understand why the bulb I took out looked fine or why the new bulb didn't work. I wasn't able to find anything conclusive which told me what parts to buy so I ended up buying them slowly over time as I figured it out. I'm hoping this thread will make it easier for someone in the future.

Money-wise, it would be hard to save much unless I went with an aftermarket plug. The most money I wasted was paying shipping multiple times as I built up the parts for the new plug.

I don't think soldering would have been easier given the difficult access to the wires. I think proper soldering is difficult in the best of conditions.
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