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Old 07-10-2018, 10:54 PM   #726
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Dude. Thanks again. I'm pretty sure my belt is slipping because of the manual tensioner/scissor bracket. Because of that, I'm piecing together a stock auto-tensioner + Merc Racing bracket set up.

I just got a used auto-tensioner (I know, I maybe should have bought a new one). But do folks often upgrade the auto-tensioner pulley? I'm ordering new bolts for it and I might up buy a new stock pulley ($34 vs. $140 or so for the whole tensioner).

And I have the Street Version of the kit, so I believe the pulley size is 3.4". My goal is 280whp-300whp. Would 3.2" suffice?
I'm sure it will be fine, but then again you are the best to say if you need to replace the pulley or not.

Regarding HP, it varies for each setup and the actual Dyno being used. If your running 3.4" BP, you are probably around 240-250whp max without knowing your setup. I think jrsc originally stated gain of up to 50 hp with their street kit.

Why 240-250? When I was K20a2 + K20a2 cp + 3.2" BP making 9-10psi, it was actually 263whp/183 wtq on a dynajet (circa 2013).

My K24a2 + K20a2 cp + 3.2" BP at 5 psi made 268 (circa 2016). I switched to 3" BP and K24a2 cp and made 283whp (circa 2017). Added w/m and retune and I'm ~304 whp/237wtq at 8.5 psi now.

Biggest recommendation is don't chase numbers... Get your setup reliable (i.e., no more belt slip), keep intake temps in check (more blower speed causes temp spikes that robs performance), and enjoy it. I can squeeze more power out and probably hit 320-330, but that would involve more $ (e.g., invest in aftercooler, dual w/m, fuel system upgrade, e85) that I'm not willing to spend lol.

Overall, you sound exactly where I was back in 2013. I wanted 280whp and was disappointed I didn't make it. Car was still fun, but unfortunately, I spun a rod bearing. I almost gave up, but decided to rebuild with some misfortunes and a lot of trial and error. To prevent going through what I did, you have to understand what you want out of the build and be ready to do the work. I've paid for services that was not completed to my liking, so I had to learn how to redo it on my own.
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Old 07-16-2018, 04:33 PM   #727
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Originally Posted by nats007 View Post
I'm sure it will be fine, but then again you are the best to say if you need to replace the pulley or not.

Regarding HP, it varies for each setup and the actual Dyno being used. If your running 3.4" BP, you are probably around 240-250whp max without knowing your setup. I think jrsc originally stated gain of up to 50 hp with their street kit.

Why 240-250? When I was K20a2 + K20a2 cp + 3.2" BP making 9-10psi, it was actually 263whp/183 wtq on a dynajet (circa 2013).

My K24a2 + K20a2 cp + 3.2" BP at 5 psi made 268 (circa 2016). I switched to 3" BP and K24a2 cp and made 283whp (circa 2017). Added w/m and retune and I'm ~304 whp/237wtq at 8.5 psi now.

Biggest recommendation is don't chase numbers... Get your setup reliable (i.e., no more belt slip), keep intake temps in check (more blower speed causes temp spikes that robs performance), and enjoy it. I can squeeze more power out and probably hit 320-330, but that would involve more $ (e.g., invest in aftercooler, dual w/m, fuel system upgrade, e85) that I'm not willing to spend lol.

Overall, you sound exactly where I was back in 2013. I wanted 280whp and was disappointed I didn't make it. Car was still fun, but unfortunately, I spun a rod bearing. I almost gave up, but decided to rebuild with some misfortunes and a lot of trial and error. To prevent going through what I did, you have to understand what you want out of the build and be ready to do the work. I've paid for services that was not completed to my liking, so I had to learn how to redo it on my own.
I think my pulley is larger. It's the Street Version of the kit, I'm mistaken. I think you're right. I think it would be cool to have 300whp but I think it's way more important I make the power reliable. I'm still piecing together this setup.

You have some solid numbers. I know I said it from another post, but I'm pretty much basing my mods off your build! Since there isn't much else to go off of. What contributed to the big rise on torque?

I have the chance to pick up KPro used locally for $450. I'm unfamiliar with the tuning world in this manner. I would probably bring it to a shop of course. I was hoping to pick up the MercRacing bracket soon but this KPro deal came by me randomly and I can't let this go.
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Old 07-16-2018, 07:03 PM   #728
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saysana13b View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by nats007 View Post
I'm sure it will be fine, but then again you are the best to say if you need to replace the pulley or not.

Regarding HP, it varies for each setup and the actual Dyno being used. If your running 3.4" BP, you are probably around 240-250whp max without knowing your setup. I think jrsc originally stated gain of up to 50 hp with their street kit.

Why 240-250? When I was K20a2 + K20a2 cp + 3.2" BP making 9-10psi, it was actually 263whp/183 wtq on a dynajet (circa 2013).

My K24a2 + K20a2 cp + 3.2" BP at 5 psi made 268 (circa 2016). I switched to 3" BP and K24a2 cp and made 283whp (circa 2017). Added w/m and retune and I'm ~304 whp/237wtq at 8.5 psi now.

Biggest recommendation is don't chase numbers... Get your setup reliable (i.e., no more belt slip), keep intake temps in check (more blower speed causes temp spikes that robs performance), and enjoy it. I can squeeze more power out and probably hit 320-330, but that would involve more $ (e.g., invest in aftercooler, dual w/m, fuel system upgrade, e85) that I'm not willing to spend lol.

Overall, you sound exactly where I was back in 2013. I wanted 280whp and was disappointed I didn't make it. Car was still fun, but unfortunately, I spun a rod bearing. I almost gave up, but decided to rebuild with some misfortunes and a lot of trial and error. To prevent going through what I did, you have to understand what you want out of the build and be ready to do the work. I've paid for services that was not completed to my liking, so I had to learn how to redo it on my own.
I think my pulley is larger. It's the Street Version of the kit, I'm mistaken. I think you're right. I think it would be cool to have 300whp but I think it's way more important I make the power reliable. I'm still piecing together this setup.

You have some solid numbers. I know I said it from another post, but I'm pretty much basing my mods off your build! Since there isn't much else to go off of. What contributed to the big rise on torque?

I have the chance to pick up KPro used locally for $450. I'm unfamiliar with the tuning world in this manner. I would probably bring it to a shop of course. I was hoping to pick up the MercRacing bracket soon but this KPro deal came by me randomly and I can't let this go.
Sounds good! My torque spike is based on swapping to a 2006 TSX motor (K24a2). The torque was a natural increase directly from Honda.

If you truly have a 3.4" BP pulley, I'd recommend sourcing a 3.2" BP and pair with the K20A2 crank pulley if you don't plan on getting an aftercooler. This should put you around 9psi at 8600 rpm. If you do get an aftercooler, then you have room to run a smaller BP and larger crank pulley...

Rule of thumb, anything over 9psi, it is highly recommended to have an aftercooler or water/methanol injection.
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Old 07-17-2018, 11:07 AM   #729
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nats007 View Post
Sounds good! My torque spike is based on swapping to a 2006 TSX motor (K24a2). The torque was a natural increase directly from Honda.

If you truly have a 3.4" BP pulley, I'd recommend sourcing a 3.2" BP and pair with the K20A2 crank pulley if you don't plan on getting an aftercooler. This should put you around 9psi at 8600 rpm. If you do get an aftercooler, then you have room to run a smaller BP and larger crank pulley...

Rule of thumb, anything over 9psi, it is highly recommended to have an aftercooler or water/methanol injection.
I JUST realized you had an entire engine swap. Makes total sense now lol. That must be fun!

I think I will stick to 9psi. I don't want to go overboard tbh. I just want it to run efficiently. Thanks for the tips.... and I think the pulley is actually 4". I couldn't remember if the street version had 4" or 3.4", but I think the race version had 3.4". Either way, will definitely upgrade that pulley.

What do you think is a logical step in building this? Right now, I'm sitting with the JRSC, stock injectors, no tune (street version uses an ECU piggyback), and Injen CAI. I have a full 3" Skunk2 exhaust, header to catback, sitting in the box. Piecing together a stock tensioner and JMerc Bracket soon. I'll probably be picking up KPro tonight. I was thinking to get the JMerc Bracket asap and put it on, deleting PS as well, and then get KPro installed and tuned. After, the exhaust can be added? Or should tuning come last? Not too sure at all.
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Old 07-17-2018, 06:30 PM   #730
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saysana13b View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by nats007 View Post
Sounds good! My torque spike is based on swapping to a 2006 TSX motor (K24a2). The torque was a natural increase directly from Honda.

If you truly have a 3.4" BP pulley, I'd recommend sourcing a 3.2" BP and pair with the K20A2 crank pulley if you don't plan on getting an aftercooler. This should put you around 9psi at 8600 rpm. If you do get an aftercooler, then you have room to run a smaller BP and larger crank pulley...

Rule of thumb, anything over 9psi, it is highly recommended to have an aftercooler or water/methanol injection.
I JUST realized you had an entire engine swap. Makes total sense now lol. That must be fun!

I think I will stick to 9psi. I don't want to go overboard tbh. I just want it to run efficiently. Thanks for the tips.... and I think the pulley is actually 4". I couldn't remember if the street version had 4" or 3.4", but I think the race version had 3.4". Either way, will definitely upgrade that pulley.

What do you think is a logical step in building this? Right now, I'm sitting with the JRSC, stock injectors, no tune (street version uses an ECU piggyback), and Injen CAI. I have a full 3" Skunk2 exhaust, header to catback, sitting in the box. Piecing together a stock tensioner and JMerc Bracket soon. I'll probably be picking up KPro tonight. I was thinking to get the JMerc Bracket asap and put it on, deleting PS as well, and then get KPro installed and tuned. After, the exhaust can be added? Or should tuning come last? Not too sure at all.
Tuning last with all mods installed is my recommendation. The route I'd recommend is:

1) get jmercado Auto tensioner bracket + OEM Auto tensioner to replace manual tensioner system
2) get 3.2" boost pulley
3) get kpro
4) get larger injectors (at least 750cc as stock will max out. I went with FIC 775cc with no complaints in maxing out duty cycle)
5) install exhaust. I'd recommend getting a Race header as well (I went with OBX)
6) if PS delete is a must, jmercado has the tensioner system, but I went a different route due to cost. I deleted hydro P/S using Ktuned EP3 adjustable idler pulley.
7) once all complete... Then Dyno or e tune. I personally prefer etune as I was part of the process and learned a lot.
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Old 07-17-2018, 09:10 PM   #731
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nats007 View Post
Tuning last with all mods installed is my recommendation. The route I'd recommend is:

1) get jmercado Auto tensioner bracket + OEM Auto tensioner to replace manual tensioner system
2) get 3.2" boost pulley
3) get kpro
4) get larger injectors (at least 750cc as stock will max out. I went with FIC 775cc with no complaints in maxing out duty cycle)
5) install exhaust. I'd recommend getting a Race header as well (I went with OBX)
6) if PS delete is a must, jmercado has the tensioner system, but I went a different route due to cost. I deleted hydro P/S using Ktuned EP3 adjustable idler pulley.
7) once all complete... Then Dyno or e tune. I personally prefer etune as I was part of the process and learned a lot.
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Old 11-03-2018, 07:50 PM   #732
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Hey all. I took apart my IACV and throttle body for cleaning. I didn't realize there was a spacer for the IACV. basically ripped apart that gasket between the spacer and IACV. Does anyone know where I could get a replacement gasket? Or if it's possible to make one? It isn't the one between the throttle body and spacer (16456-PND-A01) but the flat one.
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Old 11-05-2018, 08:45 AM   #733
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Hey all. I took apart my IACV and throttle body for cleaning. I didn't realize there was a spacer for the IACV. basically ripped apart that gasket between the spacer and IACV. Does anyone know where I could get a replacement gasket? Or if it's possible to make one? It isn't the one between the throttle body and spacer (16456-PND-A01) but the flat one.
You can try emailing moss motors to see if they can help you out. Check out supercharger dot com and send an email regarding the paper IACV gasket for the Jackson Racing Supercharger kit. Good luck.
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Old 11-06-2018, 02:48 PM   #734
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Originally Posted by nats007 View Post
You can try emailing moss motors to see if they can help you out. Check out supercharger dot com and send an email regarding the paper IACV gasket for the Jackson Racing Supercharger kit. Good luck.
Did that! New gasket was $15 or so. Great stuff.

I'm pretty close to finishing my parts hoarding with the suggestions you posted earlier in this thread. Gonna nab the Merc Racing bracket this week or next and probably the injectors the next time eBay has a 20% off coupon!!
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Old 11-06-2018, 06:23 PM   #735
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saysana13b View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by nats007 View Post
You can try emailing moss motors to see if they can help you out. Check out supercharger dot com and send an email regarding the paper IACV gasket for the Jackson Racing Supercharger kit. Good luck.
Did that! New gasket was $15 or so. Great stuff.

I'm pretty close to finishing my parts hoarding with the suggestions you posted earlier in this thread. Gonna nab the Merc Racing bracket this week or next and probably the injectors the next time eBay has a 20% off coupon!!
Awesome! Glad to see they were able to help you out. Keep us posted on your build.
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