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Old 04-04-2010, 06:39 AM   #1
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Lightbulb Ask Your Nitrous Questions Here! (Q/A Thread) Part II

Hopefully you used the button first.

Old thread: http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=134649
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Old 04-20-2010, 09:27 PM   #2
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75 pages, I skimmed and couldnt find what Im looking for. I wired my 1st stage up last wednesday, I have been unable to make it work. I wired system up per diagram on Hondata's website. My arming is using B9, and then the other wire going to a ground. My output is using B6 going to the grounds of my solenoids, and then the rest is wired like Hondata and on here. I tested this setup by touching the grounds from the solenoids to a ground and they clicked open, so I know that far is working. So the issue is where that goes into the ECU and/or the other wire that goes to the toggle. I can invert switch and it stays on all the time though.

Also, Im gonna piggy back off this cause I have a feeling if someone answers this question I can figure out why my launch control doesnt work either. If I use E29 to a toggle to the clutch switch( Im gonna x that and use a micro switch to a ground now) it dont work either, but I invert switch and it stays on all the time.


I emailed Hondata, but that was useless, Hondata Customer Service FTL, they just said if it was too difficult for me to go to a shop that knows how. They answered my question like a politic, they did everything but answer it, haha. Its not that hard to do, its just Im missing something here, something soo simple. What is everyone doing for their nitrous through Kpro to get the wiring to work?
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Old 04-20-2010, 10:08 PM   #3
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PM exactly where your wires are running; all of them.
Sounds like you're fucking something up.
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Old 04-21-2010, 08:38 PM   #4
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what are some good ngk spark plugs i can run on 75 shot?
anyones have a diy on a purge kit?
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Old 04-21-2010, 09:35 PM   #5
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Thanks man, PM sent


Here is exactly how I wired it...

http://www.hondata.com/techkpronitrousdiagram.html
On arming I used B9, and on output I used B6 though

Here is how we have it listed on here, only difference I see is that the toggle goes to positive on ClubRSX instead of ground like Hondata.

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Old 04-22-2010, 11:21 AM   #6
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Goal: I want to run a small wet shot that sprays not by WOT (tapping into the ecu/wiring), but by a push button that I hold when I want to spray and release when I'm done

Question: How would I wire that up? (i already know about the arming safety switch) Would I still have to tap into the ECU?
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Old 04-22-2010, 11:30 AM   #7
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Goal: I want to run a small wet shot that sprays not by WOT (tapping into the ecu/wiring), but by a push button that I hold when I want to spray and release when I'm done

Question: How would I wire that up? (i already know about the arming safety switch) Would I still have to tap into the ECU?
Yeah you can hook it up like that, its how mine is done. Just run the wires of the solenoids to a power and a ground and put the botton and safety switch in between the wire somewhere.
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Old 04-22-2010, 11:59 AM   #8
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Quote:
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Yeah you can hook it up like that, its how mine is done. Just run the wires of the solenoids to a power and a ground and put the botton and safety switch in between the wire somewhere.
so far you've answered every ? I've had about nitrous..thanks a lot!
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Old 04-22-2010, 01:56 PM   #9
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so far you've answered every ? I've had about nitrous..thanks a lot!
No problem, glad to help
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Old 04-24-2010, 06:52 PM   #10
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ok, I figured out one issue, now another. I swapped my B9 to E22 and wired toggle just like CRSX says. When I hit it first, it popped the 7.5a fuse I had it in, I was sharring that with my tach, the meter fuse. I switched fuses to a 10a for the nitrous. Also, my tuner looked at my relay, and noticed that my buddy wired it up exactly backwards of CRSX/hondata, so we changed that around. Kpro showed nitrous was then armed when switched on. Next issue, we did our pull, showed it was spraying, but we didnt spray anything. Tried 3 more pulls and nothing, and we know the fuel wasnt spraying cause it didnt go pig rich, I didnt pull any timing, and made same hp and trq as NA. We pulled line off and tested it and nothing, then we snipped the wire from 85 and tested it by touching to a ground, and the solenoids fired off. Apparently B6 isnt giving it a good ground or something, true? Should I just go ahead and swap to E21?
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Old 04-24-2010, 06:54 PM   #11
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Oh yeah, another guy working on a car behind us noticed when the nitrous activated the brake lights came on, is this normal, if so that is retarded, how do I stop that?
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Old 04-24-2010, 07:31 PM   #12
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Sorry I didn't get to PM you back.
I would definitely switch tom pins
E22 and E21.
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Old 04-24-2010, 07:42 PM   #13
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ok thanks. And would that then keep brake lights from coming on?
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Old 04-24-2010, 09:14 PM   #14
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Quote:
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ok thanks. And would that then keep brake lights from coming on?
You know, I've never been able to see if the brake lights
were affected. I'll have ask someone the next I have a go
at it.
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Old 04-24-2010, 09:21 PM   #15
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lol, be funny, my tuner was laughing saying after I beat someone "yeah and I was riding my brakes while smoking your ass too!" haha. Its fine, jsut I dont want to look retarded going down the track with brake lights on.
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Old 05-05-2010, 02:54 AM   #16
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Hey guys, I'm running a wet 50 shot for my type s with an aem cai, megan race headers, and , a skunk 2 exhaust,and i just ran a crx with a h22 swap and got beat by 2 or 3 cars. when i hit nitrous i felt my vteck lag alot, like there wasnt enough power there. if i ran all motor i think i would have been better off, do you guys think it has anything to do with where i drilled the hole on the intake for the nitrous? i drilled the hole even with the termperature gage and i think that wasnt very smart.. anyways i was just wondering if i can get any input on what went wrong.. or if the b20 was just fast as hell.
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Old 05-05-2010, 06:36 AM   #17
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You might not have had enough bottle pressure, so it was spraying more fuel then nitrous causing you to bog.
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Old 05-05-2010, 01:24 PM   #18
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Are you saying that there might not be enough nitrous in the bottle? Or is it something else.
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Old 05-05-2010, 02:54 PM   #19
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do you have an bottle heater? if not, your shots wont always be the same. your first few shots will be strong but after that, you'll going to lose nitrous pressure and get weaker shots..
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Old 05-05-2010, 06:34 PM   #20
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also, can you datalog to see your AFs? And are you sure it was spraying, Im having an issue with mine not spraying, and if your dry shot that means your Kpro is dumping fuel in and no nitrous. Or bottle pressure, one of the two Im sure. And what do you mean even with the temperature gauge?
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Old 05-05-2010, 08:10 PM   #21
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another issue is jets are probably wrong....

i got a question does nitrous in the bottle ever go bad? i filled my bottle up a couple months ago but never used it. does it go bad?
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Old 05-05-2010, 08:22 PM   #22
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yes, you need to use it up within 10yrs. Otherwise it turns to water, lol, no it wont go bad, sorry had to add a lil humor. Good question though, Ive asked that myself a few years ago.
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Old 05-05-2010, 08:38 PM   #23
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haha alright then thanks bro.
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Old 05-05-2010, 10:16 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuiltRSX View Post
also, can you datalog to see your AFs? And are you sure it was spraying, Im having an issue with mine not spraying, and if your dry shot that means your Kpro is dumping fuel in and no nitrous. Or bottle pressure, one of the two Im sure. And what do you mean even with the temperature gauge?
i think he's talking about the IAT sensor.
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Old 05-05-2010, 11:17 PM   #25
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how do i go about hooking up a dry shot?
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