Acura RSX, ILX and Honda EP3 Forum banner

Nitrous dyno graph

7K views 44 replies 21 participants last post by  sol2nr 
#1 ·
Here's dyno graph from my Type S with a dry nitrous setup (around a 80 shot).



Stock everything apart from 440cc injectors,CAI & ECU - 213 hp / 148 ftlbs

As above plus a dry nitrous shot using a 0.47 jet - 285 hp / 233 ftlbs

The vehicle was dyno'd on a DynoPack so the figures are 10-15 hp higher than what you will see on a DynoJet. The torque a little bumpy down because I had the nitrous operating a little early on that run, plus the engine receives fuel slightly before it receives nitrous and so runs rich for a little while. The recommended nitrous jets were 0.24 (which made such a small amount of hp I did not bother to dyno it) and 0.32 (which made 40 hp).

We also found that there was no difference in hp between having the nitrous spraying into the intake and backwards (spraying up the intake). We opted to spray the nitrous so that we got maximum mixing of the nitrous and air, as spraying straight past the throttle body looked unhealthy for cylinder #1.

Note that this is different vehicle than the supercharged / nitrous vehicle of which dyno charts were posted yesterday. We've been testing how nitrous works with the programmable ECU...

(the good thing about nitrous is when something goes wrong you can also see the funny side of it)
 
See less See more
1
#4 ·
finally. is this the new K series item that i want to know everything about? :D

glad you posted this up. I'm under the understanding that the programmable one comes with the regular reflash maps, and such. Got any other info you wanna give us, other than what the website says ;) :D
 
#6 · (Edited)
sensation612 said:
so with the programmable hondata, we are able to use a dry kit and the hondata program will give enough fuel so it doesn't blow the engine?
As long as you have bigger injectors to deliver the fuel and...

As long as it is tuned with safe ignition and fuel values.

The Programmable ECU does several things

1) Switch the nitrous on
2) Retard the timing
3) Add fuel
4) Switch the nitrous off beore the redline

The nitrous delivery is programmable for :
- RPM
- vehicle speed (so it doesn't activate in 1st or 2nd gear for example)
- Air pressure (so it comes on only in boost for example)
- Throttle position

So, this is nitrous done safely.
 
#7 ·
Hondata said:
As long as you have bigger injectors to deliver the fuel and...

As long as it is tuned with safe ignition and fuel values.

The Programmable ECU does several things

1) Switch the nitrous on
2) Retard the timing
3) Add fuel
4) Switch the nitrous off beore the redline

The nitrous delivery is programmable for :
- RPM
- vehicle speed (so it doesn't activate in 1st or 2nd gear for example)
- Air pressure (so it comes on only in boost for example)
- Throttle position

So, this is nitrous done safely.
Good to know thanks
:thumbsup:
 
#8 ·
Wow, this is really impressive, an ECU controlled Nitrous system sounds perfect.

By the way, 213 hp sounds pretty high for a CAI + Hondata, even on a Dynapack. Do those bigger injectors make much of a difference? If so, where can I get me a set?
 
#9 ·
starmax said:
By the way, 213 hp sounds pretty high for a CAI + Hondata, even on a Dynapack. Do those bigger injectors make much of a difference? If so, where can I get me a set?
Injectors don't make any difference to power. Plus bigger injectors are of no use without tuning. The car made 212.5 on stock injectors, 213 hp on 440 cc injectors. The 0.5 hp was probably from a slightly colder run. The car made 283 hp @ 7000 rpm (with nitrous) on stock injectors at about 94% duty cycle, which was about the same power as with 440cc injectors. By putting in bigger injectors and running the nitrous to higher rpm I hoped to make more power, but the power falls of after 7000 rpm with nitrous (at a guess the stock exhaust system is too restrictive).

We're seeing more variation in power with the K20 engine than the B-Series.
The normal range on a dynopack for a K20A2 with reflash + CAI is 195-205 hp. My car made more power even when 100% stock (180 hp vs average of 165-175 hp), so lucky me.

Derek.
 
#11 ·
So you work for Hondata?

Sorry if it sounds dumb, but I just wanna be clear about who you are.

(If you are)
How close are you guys to having something for us with wet kits (heh just about everybody)

I have no plans on switching to Dry... for some reason I dont trust it:dontknow:
 
#12 · (Edited)
there is really no way to tune a wet kit, other than custom jet sizes. If you don't trust hondata's setup to add the right fuel, then you wouldn't trust the reflash or anything else with it.

since i first heard about this, i've been eager for it to come out and here some results.

Interesting though that you peak with the n2o 500 rpms before n/a.

Does the setup basically have the #4 reflash, until you spray, and then it retards it down, adds fuel? Can it be setup to simply retard and not add fuel? (wet kit)

edit: well, you can tune a wet kit with a fpr, but that wasn't on my mind :D
regardless, it sounds like this thing will be "it" :thumbsup:
 
#13 ·
So you work for Hondata?
Doug & myself (Derek) own Hondata. We both have RSXs.

Interesting though that you peak with the n2o 500 rpms before n/a.
That's because the exhaust causes the torque to drop off sooner with nitrous than n/a since the engine produces a greater volume of exhaust gas using nitrous.

I have no plans on switching to Dry... for some reason I dont trust it
So you'd rather have a tap into the fuel line under the hood, then spray fuel from a single jet so that cylinders 3 & 4 run lean? The best setup would be a direct port dry system.

How close are you guys to having something for us with wet kits
1st March

Can it be setup to simply retard and not add fuel
Yes.
 
#14 ·
Damn, those numbers are so sweet. Makes me reconsider getting the reprogrammable ECU, injectors and a good nitrous kit. Now the RSX community has so many options its ridiculous. Kudos to you Hondata!
 
#16 ·
derek,

question about this system, cat. converter + race headers.

I can't name any specific person, but the consensus from n2o users is that when you swap the headers (remove the cat, and therefore install a sim) thats when bad things happen with the n2o. whats your opinion on this? Without nitrous, will this ecu-add on do away with the bad readings, or how would it affect the a/f ratios with no cat?

just lookin for a little insight if you feel comfortable
 
#20 ·
So your recommendation is a dry setup?

How user friendly is this programmable ecu going to be? Will you guys have settings/templates we can work off of? I'm pretty sold on this.
 
#25 ·
MrBurner said:
will this work on both mac and pc laptops or only pc?
Unfortunately I haven't heard anything regarding Macs, and I think the screen shots on Hondata's site looked like Windows apps. :(
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top