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Are you Sprayin?

  • Yep, kit installed. I spray

    Votes: 64 18.9%
  • I bought the kit, it's uninstalled.

    Votes: 26 7.7%
  • I used to spray, but i sold my kit.

    Votes: 13 3.8%
  • I want to, but i'm broke.

    Votes: 204 60.4%
  • I'm in the process of installing my kit.

    Votes: 31 9.2%

Chime in, Who all is sprayin?

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chime sprayin
17K views 291 replies 85 participants last post by  Rxdrug 
#1 ·
Add a vote here if ya are.... just wanted to guage the number of us that are on the juice. :laughing: :wavey:
 
#79 ·
I am not very good @ installation, so I am gonna have to get that installed. What do you suggest I get w/ the kit. besides spark plugs. I am planning to spend about $750-800 bucks without installation.
I am gonna need timers right? to stop the nitrous from spraying once it hit certain RPM's.

Will I need an exhaust system w/ nos? I already have an intake.
 
#80 ·
Welp... you dont really 'need' and exhaust system with nitrous, but with all that increased flow, its best to have as less restriction as possible. The stock exhaust manifold (header) is know to be extremely restrictive, so before I go and buy an exhuaust I'd look into a header (race header if you can afford it).

Things you'll wanna get:

-Botte Heater (to keep your bottle pressure up for harder shots)
-Gauges (Air/Fuel Gauge is a must... whatever else really isnt that important)

From what I've been told, changing the timing isnt needed on our cars. After you have nitrous, dont get hondata becuse they dont have a program for our cars yet that is compatable with nitrous.

for 750-800 you can get a decent wet single fogger kit.

By timers, if you mean a window switch that activates and de-activates nitrous spray based on rpm then yes you should proably look into that. Its all about your comfort level. If you feel that you'll need all of those 'fool proof' add-ons, then you should get it. Better to have spent 200-300 on gadgets, then to have blown your 2500-3000 dollar engine (street price, not acuras)
 
#82 ·
Well the price for the gadgets was only an example. I dont have any of those on my kit, so I really dont know how much they go for.

I do know that when Dealing with these kits, the price starts to add up quickly when getting all kinds of accesories.

Honestly, if you got a couple buddies that know what they're doing then you dont need to go to a shop.

Me and TypeSJay mounted my bottle in the back (he did most of the work:p)

After that I ran the main nitrous feed line from the bottle to the engine bay.

After that I mounted the solenoids and connected the feed line.

From there I had my boys finish up the wiring.

Save some money on the hardest part (hardware mounting) and just have a shop wire the kit up for you.
 
#86 ·
well, thank you sir, you did provide a great deal of info, but some things were slightly flawed ;)

unless, you've got one of the little gismo's to tune it (v-afc crap), an a/f guage is nearly worthless to you, because you're not gonna swap jets to tune it.... 99% of us aren't.

a more important gauge is bottle pressure. while, you may not always need it in cali, and his bigger concern in florida is higher than normal pressure, you still need one. the pressure of the system is one of the easiest ways to "tune" the basic system. Running it at 600psi, means you're running rich as hell, shooting less nitrous than you should (more pressure, more comes out of the bottle when it's open ). however if you run around 1100, you're beginning to add more nitrous than you should, in effect "leaning" out the system. it's not rocket science, but it's handy to look at your pillar and see such a reading. :thumbsup:

second: yes, call it nitrous, or n2o. nx and nos are essentially the same kit, they're universal setups that'll basically work on any car.

third: plugs. yup, i've been runnin on my IK24's for a while now, i swaped them purely as a safety reason. however, people are, and have been running 125 shot on stock everything. so it's do-able.

fourth: it's not 50 shots. it's a 50 shot. the openings on the jets are setup to give you 50 hp at the crank. this is a simple match to overtake your hondata, i,h,e. From what i've seen with the srt4's, they're mighty quick, and a 50, with no experience isn't gonna get you much closer to their taillights.

fifth: window switch, with pills is around $150. Think of your nitrous system in a process. Everything has to be right for it to be activated. In my car, the following:

activation switch on.
fuel pressure above 45 psi.
rpms between 3900-7700.
throttle wide open.

if any one thing of that is not good, it simply won't spray. ( kinda like old christmas lights, if one is out, you're freezin your ass off to fix them :laughing: )

window switch, i'd advise getting. if your WOT (wide open throttle) switch sticks, and they're prone to, there is nothing else thats gonna stop you from over-reving while spraying.

any other questions.... feel free, read the sticky, but i think everything in the world has been covered here, for the standard edition wet kits.
 
#87 ·
lol hey I tried.

Well... what I meant by A/F gauge being the most important, was that it was the most important gauge to get after you already have the kit. I dont think nitrous kits come with a/f gauges do they? Most nitrous kits come with bottle pressure gauges, so It wasnt an issue of getting that one.

I agree that the bottle pressure is extremely important, but I always like to know how rich/lean I'm running.

I didnt know that you needed tuning or what-not to detect how lean/rich you were.
 
#88 ·
what i'm saying, is that your a/f gauge is no good.

if you're running lean, what are you going to do? What are you going to correct to richen the mixture?

nothing.

both the systems come with an "inline gauge". meaning, unless your bottle is mounted within view, you can't see it.

me? i don't even have an a/f. if i was gonna do it, i'd go with a pyrometer anyways, get a real feel for temp.
 
#89 ·
yeah...a/f guage is pointless unless you want to drill and weld a bung for a wideband o2 and you have tuning abilities...but if you have tuning abilities, you probably have access to a dyno which should have air/fuel capabilities

fuel pressure + nitrous pressure guages...thats what i'm running at least
 
#91 ·
wet kit is for hardcore nitrous users, I am newb so I think I am gonna need dry.

Why wont my car keep with SRT-4's w/ 50 shots. I push out 163.9 WHP stock and w/ the Neuspeed P-Flo I push out 172.1 and if I get a cat back exhaust system and get it dynoed I think it will add another 10 WHP (thats what Buddy Spec III claims to add). so if I have my car on 180whp + 50shot I should push out 230 @ the wheels thats more than enough.

I could be wrong with the exhaust +hp.
 
#93 ·
Do you know how much power the NEW srt-4s are putting out?

Quite a bit from what I've been told... more so than the year before. I think they upped the boost and did a couple other things.

Exhaust system giving you 10whp? I hardly doubt it, but who knows.

I havent been able to get a good race against an srt-4 without nitrous yet, but I'd say with a 50 shot you should win.

I raced a black one waaaay back in the day when I used to streetrace religiously. He didnt really beat me by that much... a fender perhaps?
 
#94 ·
Acuraivtec said:
wet kit is for hardcore nitrous users, I am newb so I think I am gonna need dry.

Why wont my car keep with SRT-4's w/ 50 shots. I push out 163.9 WHP stock and w/ the Neuspeed P-Flo I push out 172.1 and if I get a cat back exhaust system and get it dynoed I think it will add another 10 WHP (thats what Buddy Spec III claims to add). so if I have my car on 180whp + 50shot I should push out 230 @ the wheels thats more than enough.

I could be wrong with the exhaust +hp.
the clips i've seen were neons with minor mods + tires, and it was a 12.9. knock the slicks, you got a 13.4.

the fastest 50 shot is still jeramy, with a 13.8. (last i checked).

you also negate the fact that it's a 50 shot AT THE CRANK.

while the dyno run i did had to be screwy, it showed me gaining 51 at the wheels..... again, the idiots didn't know our gearing or nothing.

and also, running n2o is a different beast than a turbo, he can keep going.... you spray though all of 4th ( over 15 seconds ), kiss them internals goooood bye.

and yes, your hp numbers for an exhaust are wrong. expect half of what they tell you. so if they promise 10, you might get 5.
 
#96 ·
I would def. do a race header if your staying motor/nitrous, if you planning on doing anything else in the long run you should look at something else. But then again thats just my opinion.
 
#97 ·
Randeezle said:
yep... maybe 5.

Before I spent a dime on an exhaust, I'd buy the race header 1st.

Better gains, more power where you want it and more torque (not that you dont already have enough with the juice:))
Dont I have to get custom piping , if I install a race header. :confused:
 
#98 ·
Nope... you'll wanna get the ES motormount inserts and the adapter that may or may not come with the header.

What the race header is, is a Header/Downpipe/Test Pipe all in one. People have the option of getting a performance catalyc converter andhaving it welded onto the header, but thats just so they dont throw a CEL (check engine light).

I think theres a fix out for the o2 sensor so it doesnt throw a cel, but anyways that is what a race header is (if you didnt know)

The header will bolt straight onto any catback system (even stock)
 
#99 ·
I've got the comptech raceheader, no mm, no cat., no custom piping.
I had the Borla cat/back before installing the header, the cat. was pulled and the adapter (comes with the comptech raceheader) bolted right up to the exhaust.
I've just recently found out that I'm one of the rare few that hasn't thrown a CEL with the Casper O2 sim.

I haven't praticed alot since getting the header, but it's really hard to spray in 1st now, the rpms really jump.:D
 
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