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BuiltRSX nitrous build

6K views 75 replies 19 participants last post by  BuiltRSX 
#1 · (Edited)
OK guys, I have been waiting for this thread. I have been at this for a few years now.

To give a rundown, when I bought the car, I saw it was black and below trade in value, I didnt know what the hell a RSX-S was, I was a 4x4 guy needing a car. I bought a nitrous kit off a chick that just broke up with her bf and she took the kit, lol, 50bucks for a brandnew NX kit. Went to a buddy to install for me, my car was rattling, it was my rods knocking, I just bought the car, not a car guy, didnt know that is what that was. So sold the kit, told the wife my cams were ruined as well as some tranny parts. So here is the first build list...


Kpro
Skunk2 Pro Series Springs and titanium retainers
Crower stage 2 FI cams(I bought NA cams but got screwed and shop closed immediately after I bought em)
Ferra valve locks
replaced bottom end with stock rods and pistons
Calico Coating B18 ACL bearings
Competion Clutch lightweight aluminum flywheel
Competition Clutch stage 2 clutch kit(burned up in 5K miles and now run stage 4, lasted 15K and still got 20passes or so left on it)
Toda Timing Tensioner
DCRH
Injen SRI
OBX LSD

I had fun with this setup, never tuned it. For my class, NA FWD class, it was undefeated, made great times for the area, but not really that fast, also stock exhaust

I got bored with this setup after 2 years, so in the meantime I bought parts one at a time only if they were 40% or more off retail.

I gathered up everything, had the buddy build it, and the build was rushed and dont a bit careless and ruined my rods, pistons, bearings, and valve guides. Also I learned that my Toda Tensioner was defective which caused me some tuning issues due to figuring out why my cam angles wouldnt change where I wanted them to, and I had in non resistor plugs which explains why all I could get was 208whp out of her, peak at 8100rpms.

My local shop picked me up as a sponsored car, which is helping me out alot of cost, I am very greatful for them otherwise I would have to scrap my car due to financial reasons with all that needed replacing.

Here is the new build in addition to the above, which these parts I have bought twice keep in mind.

Wiseco 11.7:1 pistons
Eagle H beam rods
Level 3 P&P head
Calico Bearings
Cometic 86mm HG
86.5mm bore due to cylinder wall scarring
stock flywheel(until I can afford new clutch and 12-14lb flywheel)(the CC was too light for drag racing)
Brian Crower flat face coated valves
Brian Crower stage 3 cams ceramic coated(experimenting with the coating, worked great on all his other cars real well)
Thermal coated IM and SRI
P2R IM thermal gasket
2485lbs in drag setup(wheels and tires and 3 gallons of gas)
Ingals trq dampner
Buddy club ss
Custom Mandrel Bend 3" piping with Magnaflow OEM style muffler 3"in/3"out
Innovated 75a motor mounts
DynoTune wet kit single fogger, purge bottle warmer, and lots of jets
Cold Fusion DP wet kit, purge bottle warmer, and 100-400hp jets, lol, prob use max of 140shot.
OEM modded 520cc injectors
KiddRacing header
RBC IM


My build is being setup to run 125-150shot consistantly, but we will be spraying 200-250only to break a new track record for the class it will be in, or against certain people. In Arkansas I shouldnt need more than a 75shot to be the car to beat, so not necessary for more.

The car will run 2 stages, one 35-75shot through TB, and then 100-140ish DP, with neither kit shutting off druing the run.

I have ran and setup all my nitrous except connecting the wiring, I am letting them do it cause i dont trust myself to. Motor should be in my hands tomorrow night or friday so I wont sleep til she starts. I will make another thread for a Wet Shot thread with pics, so bear with me, car is not with me so I can only see it occasionally.
 
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#3 ·
I will only have completed motor pics, cause it has been at the shop since January. But I can take pics of what is visible once I pic it up, and will take plenty of pics of the nitrous for the other thread I will make.
 
#5 ·
yeah, its been a long time, I have missed several big race events cause of it, but after this weekend, hopefully it will be well worth it. With everything done to it, here and there ;) we think it will be between 12.5 and 13:1 compression. We will do a compression test on it to give a rough estimate, and all the online calculators I have researched I either dont have the exact info it needs, or they dont have theirs calibrated correctly, Zeal Autowerks, has our info, but says our stock HG is .025" when its .030". So I dont trust that site on correct info.
 
#6 ·
Goodluck!! I want a ride in this car haha maybe one day i will make a special trip :D But i sold my kit, to much hassle.. O well ill just stay all bolt-on's for reliability for now! Maybe one day ill do something fun :pray:
 
#7 ·
Ok, I had a slight accident in work truck today, so I am picking the motor up tomorrow, it is done ready for pickup. I still need to weld in new bolts tomorrow as well, I over trq'd the ones that hold the strut brace down on each side.
 
#8 ·
Well, been some major major major bullshit holdups here. I went to pick up the motor, bolts were scattered everywhere, a guy they had working there awhile back graduated from UTI etc, he took it apart and scattered parts, course they did fire him. Anyways, I had to go to hardware store to find some hardened bolts to bolt my pressure plate up to flywheel, bullshit, and now have to figure out which bolts I need to put my tranny back on the block, I found one bolt, but I have 7 others that are too long, and I refuse to use washers, so I am gonna go to hardware store and find some that work, though now I wont be able to use the standard honda metric tools, bullshit. Also, my starter is still there. So now I gonna miss yet another big event here. I am so tired of this crap with the car, its one thing after another with it.

Ok, now that I have vented, lol, *big sigh*, my car isnt together, got all the parts together that I removed, still trying to figure out what parts got lost at the shop, once i do that, it shouldnt take long to get it in and going.
 
#10 ·
The SRI was on the car when I bought it, I am spending money on needed parts first, the SRI gets the job done, so I wont replace it with a CAI until I can get this stuff taken care of first. Besides, I have proven many times that with it being thermal coated, my temps are running cooler and more consistant than the CAIs the guys with Ks are running round here, so really its better than a CAI for time being. I will be buying a CAI soon though, and it will be thermal coated as well. And the DCRH I bought 3 years ago on a very very limited budget, and didnt have plans for future upgrades, and as before, it works, so it will ahve to make do until these upgrades are done then when I can afford a better one I will be replacing it.
 
#12 ·
LOL, yeah, soon enough, but I am not too big on street vids being my job requires ZERO violations, I am a driver for Cintas. But I should have plenty of track vids.

Also, to give progress, I went over today with some better substitute bolts to bolt the tranny up, they will work until I get Honda ones. It just makes future dis/asemblies easier using less tools. I also dropped the motor in and bolted up the motor mounts minus the front mount cause it is at the speed shop as well. Tomorrow I will pick up my starter and front mount, and if not too late go and do everything but the connecting wires.

I am still confused where to put the solenoids though, no place makes since to put the big blob of goods. I thought bout below the battery, but the purge solendoid is in the way, I need to figure out another way to mount it, wish I had another bracket and I would separate the fuel solenoid from the nitrous and purge solenoids.
 
#13 ·




I need help on a spot here to mount my solenoids


For those of you deleting AC, this is OReillys belt, 53.5", boy is it a tight fit


My junk pile, there is actually some sort of organization believe it or not. Also, take not of the thermal coated SRI and IM.


Tranny oil and plugs I will be using


Fitting for my oil pressure gauge


Not the exact same injectors I am running, but they are modded 520cc


Crappy shot of the car, I dont have camber bolts in on wheels upfront, thats why it looks like that


My vavle color done up in Polk Performance's illusious violet, swirl polish underneath.




And a bonus, wife bet I wouldnt do it, he's my lil Hog fan
 
#15 ·
Beebe AR, 35minutes north of Little Rock. I will get more pics, I meant to get pics of the port work today but forgot, now I cant really get a good pic of the exhaust side, but I can of the intake side. Also, I plan on more pics of the nitrous so I can make a thread on that.
 
#17 ·
I think there is a pretty big MO. cruise coming up in July if your car is done by then. Not saying you'd want to drive all the way out here but it's an idea and i want to see this car once its finished!! :laughing:
 
#18 ·
Well, I have 2 weeks of vacation and 1 week of sick days remaining, cause work has been denying me of them, they expire at end of July, so I called in today and told em too bad. So I am gonna get the car done today.

Update on parts, I located all my factory bolts, starter, and front motor mount at the their shop yesterday, so I will swap parts out today. My wife's mustang's trq convertor is locked up, so we are short a vehicle, so this couldnt have come at a more perfect time. The car will be running today fo sho.
 
#19 ·
Oh yeah, that is not the length of belt preferred, I was handed the wrong one, but it went on, its very tight, but the shop said it would be fine. I just wonder if it will hold me back on any hp being that tight. I might have to go grab the 53.5" one, this one is just shy of 53".
 
#20 ·
Ok, if you guys ever install a mechanical oil pressure gauge, with a nylon tube, be helpful to have someone feed it through the firewall to you to insure no kinks. I accidently kinked mine. While trying to prime it, I disconnected plugs and removed em, and disconnected injectors, I couldnt ever get oil in the line to the gauge, heart sunk. Got out of car and there was some oil in line, then I traced it to where it goes in the firewall, the line was coiled and as I pulled it through I must have twisted and pinched it. I didnt apply much pressure if that gives you an idea how easy it is to pinch.

Also, I meant to take pictures of how to change CV boots for everyone. I had a pinhole in all my passenger side axles, dunno how, and too wild they all have one in same spot. I got stuck with some special order ones from honda for 30 a piece, the gave me the inside ones, I need the outside ones. Got on e-gay and bought em for 5 bucks each shipped, they work great though the wire clippy things suck.

For a breif how to, I used a vise, clamped em down tight, then took a 2x4 about a foot long, and tapped if firmly in 3 spaces going around the end, with that end pointing to the floor. Then I knocked the piss out of it and it fell off. I picked it up, cleaned out any dirt. Then used the CV grease it comes with and packed it, I had nitrile gloves on so it was easier to shove it deep in there. Then replaced the c clip on shaft, turned axle the other direction in vise...Then slipped it straight on till resistant, placed 2x4 flat over the end and tapped firmly til I felt it go on right, then whaled on it. I did until it was seated. Mark where it was prior to taking it off though, makes it more certain on seating, then pull the boot up onto it, haha, yeah put the boot on first before replacing the end.
 
#22 ·
SHE STRARTS!!! And when not idle surging, sounds deeeeeeeep.


But, I need to figure out how to get ALL the air bubbles out so it will idle right. Had her off and on several times all day filling it up. I figure now all I really should do is put a funnel on the radiator to keep the water from sloshing out and keep filling. Also, my shop told me that I need to put the TB lines back on for the coolant, not necessary for a drag car, so I gotta try to find those lines, I am sure I kept em somewhere, though removed em almost 4 years ago.

Also, my O2 is bad, not reading at all and throwing a heater code, so I need to buy another one. So since I dont have a way to tune it for the street safe, I am forced to park it til I can dish out money for one.

The car sounds
 
#23 ·
I forgot to say, I was gonna take it to Polk to get running right, but he called told me it was something simple and to save my gas. Anyways, as I was pulling it up on the trailer, I never used the gas. Use to, when I did, I would have to give it a lil throttle to pullits way up, so I like the added trq this heavier flywheel gives it, I have a gut feeling this is gonna be a lil trq monster 2L.
 
#26 ·
yeah, the year old dust in there makes it look stock, the sound isnt though, haha.



I got technical questions for people. The idle surging any clues on this?
My ECT is staying right round where I want it to stay. I used a funnel to put water in, I cant get anymore bubbles out and cant put more water in. I am putting the coolant lines back on the TB tomorrow canceling out the TB bypass, though it has never done this before with the bypass done. I disconnect the connection on the TB, if looking into the throttle body, its the one farthest to the right on top, and car dies. The one next to it toward left and it doesnt change anything, and the TPS disconnected and it doesnt change anything. On Kpro, when I move the idler air control valve to right it surges from 750ish-5K, and move it to the left and it surges from 1K-2500, my idle is set at 1200. I am really lost here, and not a mechanic, and cant really explain it to my tuner. He described the sound and heard it and said it has to do with my idle air valve, said that its gotta be air in the coolant lines. I thought I took care of the issue but is still doing it.
 
#27 ·
OK, I have been searching and found this.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zvg0ZIEsuZ8

This is very very very identical to what mine is doing, and I have concluded that it may very well possibly be a dirty IACV, so tomorrow I will be taking it off to clean and see what that does. Once it sounds normal I will take a sound pic for everyone. I want her first impression to be a good one, not a idle surge problem clip of her, lol.
 
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