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Wiring Question

9K views 51 replies 5 participants last post by  06orangetypes 
#1 ·
Im confused as hell :ugh: trying to fig out what to do when wiring nitrous thru kpro. Ive seen some answers so to speak and Im confused. Dont know if Im having a moment or not.. anyways you cut wires e21 and e22 going to ecu then attaching wiring to ecu side of wires and im good to go.. right??
 
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#2 ·
Umm dont cut em, you splice into them. One route is those clamp connectors, or you can be very careful with razor blade/solder gun melt or cut some plastic back and wrap wire round that exposed wire and solder it, then tape it up.

I used E22 and E21, and Im gonna do another pinout though. #1 I was not getting a ground signal to my relay that way even though ecu said I was spraying and it wasnt. #2 I dont like the idea of activating my switch with a positive, and I heard NHRA wont allow you to use a positive to activate nitrous or any other electronics, just ground, E21. #3 I dont like the idea when Im spraying that my brake lights come on, gay.

But yes you got the basic idea minus just cutting the wires, unless you meant to splice into the wires. Oh and when you use a hot to activate, you can pop fuses, you dont when you use ground to activate.
 
#3 ·
Thanks for clearing that up. thats what i was confused about cause it just didnt seem right to cut. so if i wire according to the sticky.. My brake lights will come on?? Hmm.. is there another way to wire it then?
 
#9 ·
well i thought i had it.. i dont know whats up with it.. I spliced into the e21 and e22 on the ecu. i called Hondata and talked to a tech who told me that the connectors go from left to right a,b,c and etc.. well when you look at the last right connector its grey and not white and it doesnt have a wire in the e22 spot. SOOO the far left connector which is white has a blk/wht wire for e22 but the e21 is blck/wht not light grn/red. I spliced into the wires according to the pin out not wire colors and e22 is getting constant power. I dont know why. everything is ran the way the diagram showed. PLEASE HELP!!
 
#12 ·
connector a, and unplug the connector and turn it over, when plugged in the E21 I believe is on the right side, not the left like the photo. Go by color wires only, and the slot, but yeah, I was confused to and know what you mean, but turn the connector over, like top on bottom and bottom on top, then you will see it in correct order. LOL, I think, haha, its been a few weeks, in morning I will look, but it is connector A you need.
 
#13 ·
ok im spliced into connector a, e22 wire is the correct color, wht/blk.. but the e21 is suppose to be light grn/red but in the spot where e21 is supposed to be it is blk/wht. There is a green and red wire on that harness but its not where the pin out shows e21 at. So do i splice into the green/red wire or go by the pin out where e21 is which is blk/wht? Hope i didnt confuse you.
 
#14 ·
ok, I looked at an 05, which is different than our 02-04, and there isnt a E22 on the connector A.

Connector A 2005 model
http://www.pencomputing.com/rsx/rsx_2005_ecu/A31P.jpg

Connector E 2005 model ( I think this is what you were using and it wont work though the pinout is correct)
http://www.pencomputing.com/rsx/rsx_2005_ecu/E31P.jpg

Based on this, I would say use this...


E22(bottom left when looking at connector E correctly black/white wire) for arming, its a hot though, so wire on wire to an accessory. Or...E16 (lt green/black) its a ground or E29 (brown) its a ground, with either of the second, your brake lights wont come on, though Im betting your service engine light will come on only when spraying, not as embarrassing as taillights. This is where Im rewiring mine to connect to so I can use a ground.

On the output...
the E21 you were using is for yoru secondary O2 on your model instead of EVAP on our model why it wont work.

You will prob have to use E19 which is lt green/red for E21 though i dont know if computer will still register being its still the evap but not E21.

I dont know if any of this was helpful, I hope it was, again, I dont know jack bout wiring, just taking how Im interpretting the diagram and relaying it to you, dbl verify this with someone more knowledgable.
 
#15 ·
Ok.. ill have to take a look at it.. But from what k20egcw told me is that i should be splicing the a connector on the harness adapter which is the same as the 02-04. ill try it out tomorrow.
 
#18 ·
thats the same problem I was getting when using the B connections, it was saying on all the time no matter how the toggle was flipped. And when on when switched to the E connector, the arming, 21 or 22 cant remember, lol, when I used the other wire to a ground, it was saying on always, and when ran that wire to like my rear wiper fuse it worked properly.
 
#20 ·
I wired E22 up with a hot, but it still wouldnt send a ground signal from 21 to my relay. I just jumped a ground to my relay and manually sprayed it on dyno to get numbers. Im going to rewire it one evening if I get time and a solder gun using E29 or what ever the service connector was, maybe E22 sends a hot to the relay, dont know and didnt test it. Its jsut crazy how people can wire theirs up and work, and when they explain they explain like everyone understands wiring, and then we have issues. I mean I understand if you know something its very easy to make explanations like that, I do it on other types of things all the time by accident. Its just weird, maybe if someone used a different pinout could chime in and tell exactly what they did where they ran wires, what switch, etc, maybe that would help...and hahahaha dont email/call hondata, they have the sorriest pisspoor customer service and didnt help at all, basically in the email I got and others interpreted it too as them calling me a dumbass for not understanding. Im not the only one that has gotten repeated bad service, oh well...this isnt bout them its bout wiring to their ecu.
 
#21 ·
im going to try running the arming switch to e16 and the output control to e18 and see if i cant get it to work that way. But i know exactly what you mean with people explaining things and automatically thinks everyone should know what they are talking about.. Also when I called hondata they told me the wrong plug. So i wont be wasting my time with them.
 
#23 ·
Ok this is from the sticky on wiring nitrous thru kpro.

"This first diagram is of a single stage nitrous system setup.
Going from left to right i will try to walk you through the setup, so here we go. Starting with the battery we have your negative side grounded of course, and a main power line running to the 30 pin of the relay with a inline fuse, this will supply your main power. Off of pin 86 you will have a 12v keyed sourse so that everything will only turn on when the car is on, this helps to prevent draining your batter when the car is off. Then you have two lines coming off of the nitrous solenoid, with theses lines it doesnt matter which one goes to ground or power but one of them you will ground out and the other you will run to pin 87 of the relay which is routing power to it when the 12v switch is on. Now for pin 85 and kpro, with K-Pro, the ECU replaces the micro trigger. You still have an arming switch on the dashboard. Turn that on and power goes to pin E22 in the ECU. The ECU is now also "armed" and will check if the conditions you set in the nitrous control panel are met. If yes, it sets output pin E21 high. E21 connects to the relay, which then snaps on and routes full 12V power to the solenoid that then opens nitrous, which makes your car go real fast lol."

Instead of using e21 and e22 i used e16 and e18. Now when im checking the voltage with just turning the key on. E16 switches on and off with 12v but e18 has constant power while the car is on. My question is will it switch to a ground when parameters are met thru kpro?
 
#25 ·
I am thinking you need to put all other arming inputs to a ground. ground equals on... but glad your trying it to let us know. Take the wire going to a 12v on the toggle and ground it to see if it will still turn on/off. As for the other, lol, cant believe nowbody that has working nitrous on their car is chiming in.
 
#27 ·
Damn.. I haven't even started my installation yet.. kinda gettin nervous now.. just waiting on my solid motor mounts and installation will begin.. the guy that I bought my nitrous kit from said he wired it exactly as the single stage diagram shows and it worked perfectly.. idk.. seems like that diagram may be slightly wrong from the sound of it..
 
#29 ·
i hooked it up using e16 and e18, it didnt spray and now my ac compressor wont engage. Dont even know what else to look for. the fuses under the hood relating to the ac are good but i have no ac now..
 
#31 ·
I haven't wired mine up yet.. just been procrastinating a lot lately.. workin on a lot at once.. also been offered a fairly decent trade.. my nitrous setup for a jrsc!! I posted pics in the chat.. I do believe it to be a good and fair trade if u look at the money invested so far.. we will see..
 
#34 ·
I have read that before...What I dont understand, if both wires touch, what is the difference in cutting or splicing, it is the same, and wires will conduct a current either way the same. I wish he had a pic as to what he meant if it was different than what I am thinking. The way I did it finally works perfect for me, and I didnt have to cut anything.
 
#35 ·
With the wires not cut the e22 was getting constant power which wouldnt allow e21 to ground out.. So when i cut them i made them their own source pretty much. It works now so im happy.. What did you do to get urs to work without cutting wires?
 
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