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Ask Your Nitrous Questions Here! (Q/A Thread)

95K views 359 replies 80 participants last post by  Corona951 
#1 ·
I am wanting to start to run Nitrous in my rsx. I was wondering if anyone company is more reliable or better for parts.
 
#172 ·
Gota quick question guys. I have a k24a2 long block kelfordA;s with supertech headbuild ARP head studs, rbc 70mmtb, SSR RH, Q300. I want to through sum spray on here and was wondering how much I can run in a 2 stage spray. Was thinking 75 then a 50. 75 for 2-4 and 50 for 5th. I have a z3 trans. Or should i run just a 100 shot 2-4. Havent heard of to many ppl with spray and couldent find any vids on youtube/streetfire. Thx
 
#174 ·
I'm newbie here, owner of 06 RSX Type-S (stock, no mods) and I'm researching about nitrous... it's sounds pretty tempting with the low cost and such (on a comparison basis) - So far it's pointing to the NitrousExpress Mainline kit (wet system) and it looks pretty easy to install on diy basis (no tuning, and it looks like pretty much the nozzle installation at the air inlet and the T connector at the fuel line).
One thing that's part of my research is to find out about refills... I just checked on the web and couldn't find anywhere in the DFW (TX) area. Is it something hard to find? Tnks!
 
#175 ·
How mush will the Nitrous cost? Iv always wanted to have some kick in my RSX, its an auto base 2005, black but I want to coupe it up so i could start racing with it. And another thing, I crashed it a while ago and iv been driving without a bumper for awhile now so where do you thing I could get a low price bumper and a fender? any sits or anything, Iv try amazon but there all around 400 and I only want to only pay about 2 or 3 for it plus the labor so all around i want about 500 or less.
 
#177 ·
Nitrous is generally around $5 per pound, give or take.

Your clutch might start slipping on higher hp shots, but your trans isn't going to be at any further risk versus any other power adder. I'm on stock trans with 96,000 miles and it's been sprayed since the 70,000 mile marker.
 
#183 ·
I've gone through dozens of bottles over the last 5 Summers.

Little signature.........Bwahahahahahaha. What do you have done to your RSX noob? Looking back through your posts it seems you love posting misinformation and acting like a know-it-all. Telling people a short shifter causes problems and for NA guys to tune WOT to 13.2-13.6. GTFO of here noob.

:stfu:
 
#184 · (Edited)
Misinformation? That's from experience, so I don't see how you're calling me a noob. So if you know your shit what would YOU tune an NA setup to huh? Haha why do people love flaming so much on this forum? There's no need to be a total douche...

edit: Instead of just calling me out, why don't you back your shit, next time tell me how your opinion differs from mine. Like I already asked, what would you tune NA to..? And have you used both the stock shifter and a short shifter on the same car..? And you ask what I have done to my RSX? You could just check my profile, but K&N SRI, Hytech header, 3 inch custom exhaust, and Kpro, tuned by ME.
 
#185 · (Edited)
Oh and I have a (noob) question, hopefully you can answer it for me ;)

I see you're running your 150 shot with e85 using ID1000s, what's your duty cycle on the 150 shot WOT past 8000 RPMs? I'm candidly asking you this because sometime in the future I plan on going on boost (possibly with e85), and am wondering if the 1000s will be sufficient for my planned setup, or if I might need larger injectors.
 
#186 ·
It's a known fact that the K20's make the most power NA when tuned to 12.9-13.1 A/F's. That's what I tuned my car at, and that's what every single Tuner on this forum will tell you to shoot for.

I've used stock, Revo, and BuddyClub shifters all in the same car.

My injector duty cycle on the spray is around 78%.
 
#187 ·
Can you show me in the direction of how I can verify this claim that K's make more power with an AF of 12.9-13.1? I'm not questioning it, but since you claim that's what every tuner on this forum will tell me I'd like to see proof. Will they tell me to shoot for this because it helps keep cylinder temps lower or because it actually makes more power?

Tell me you did not notice how with the stock shifter the shifts were noticeably smoother. Short shifters give a notchier shift and I advised some one not to get a short shifter if he wanted a smoother shift feel.

And damn, that's a little higher than I expected and hoped it would be.

Please remember that the next time you encounter some one on the forum that you don't agree with, it's really childish and unnecessary to rant about them being a "noob" :thumbsup:
 
#188 ·
The direction is called the "All Motor" and "ECU Tuning" sections.

If I thought the stock shifter was better I wouldn't have a BuddyClub short shifter in my car. Yours was probably notchy because you haven't changed the fluid to Pennzoil Synchromesh...another commonly known fix in the RSX community.

e85 requires 30% more fuel so the duty cycle is going to be a lot more compared to 93 octane.

You've only proved to me your a noob by questioning everything I've told you so far. I've been here a lot longer than you, posted a lot more than you, and I'm actually running nitrous unlike you. Why are you still arguing with me NOOB?
 
#189 ·
Haha in case you haven't noticed I stopped arguing with you but now I'm going to start again, since you've proved to me that you are indeed a complete and total douche, even after I attempted at being diplomatic with you. You called me a know-it-all, and you know what? You are 100 times over more of a noob and a know-it-all than I am.

First off, saying the exact AF of 12.9-13.1 makes more power on all RSXs is extremely stupid and naive because each motor is different and will make more power on slightly differing AFRs, which can only be determined on a dyno. I did some searches and it seems like the tuners on here suggest aiming for 13.2, which is closer to what I said.

Also, changing trans fluids is completely irrelevant to the point I made. I made a direct comparison with the stock shifter and a short shifter, with all other variables held constant, which is the only way to do a true comparison. And as seen from this comparison the stock shifter is smoother.

The point of this forum is to help people and not try to degrade them like some piece of shit 14 year old, so :stfu:
 
#190 ·
By the way, the length of time you've been on this site and number of posts you make does not prove much about your knowledge... I know people who aren't part of any forums or even own a K series that know more about K series than you probably do
 
#192 · (Edited)
Maybe it's cause no one wants to stoop down to the little bitch level you're at, maybe we should have a discussion about NA AFRs in a different section of the forum ey?

By the way you're stupid for getting a 2.5 inch exhaust if you knew you were going to run a 150 shot.
 
#193 ·
No. It's because this sub-forum has no activity. Go ahead and start posting your ignorance in the more popular sections. I'll get my popcorn ready.

As for the exhaust, 3" would pick up a FEW hp, but at the expense of excessive noise. Something I didn't want. Considering I put down 312whp over 3 years ago on spray with a smaller shot and the same exhaust...I think she's running just fine. Your car would be lucky to break 200whp with the mod list you have. Especially with that gay ass short ram intake. Let me guess, short ram's are far superior to cold air intakes?? Bwahahahahaha....NOOB

Until your car is anywhere close to the level of my car :stfu:
 
#197 ·
:rotfl::rotfl::rotfl:

No I'm VERY amused.

And just a little disappointed that there are such douchey people on this forum. Cause you do seem to know your stuff but you would be of way greater help to every one here if you were more mature.
 
#198 · (Edited)
Here's some food for thought:

http://www.bristoldyno.com/tech/airfuel.htm

"As far as power is concerned, I'll say only this: Every vehicle is different. If one wants to find the best air/fuel ratio for generating power, one should put the vehicle on a dyno and test it. Many believe that a particular ratio will result in the most power under any circumstances, and that belief is just too narrow-minded. There are far too many factors involved to make such blanket statements."

"When performing dyno testing and tuning, one must ask oneself "what am I trying to achieve?" If maximum power is the goal, then just look at the power curve first and make adjustments accordingly. The fuel curve is only used as an aid. Many NA race car owners tune in this manner, and by the time they are done the air/fuel ratio is sometimes between 14:1 and 15:1. This is usually not considered "safe" by anyone, but most race car teams accept the fact that they usually change the engine at least once during a typical season. Most street car owners are willing to sacrifice the 3 - 5 hp that they might get by running so lean and instead opt for an air/fuel ratio that will help their engine last for many years."



I went on k20a.org and started a thread with:
"Ok so some one on clubrsx was criticizing me for advising people running NA setups to tune their WOT AFs to 13.2-13.6

He said: 'It's a known fact that the K20's make the most power NA when tuned to 12.9-13.1 A/F's.'

My question is, how valid is that statement?

Theoretically shouldn't even K20s make slightly more power when tuned a littler leaner, to 13.2-13.6?

And isn't it true that in reality it's impossible to say whether 12.9-13.1 OR 13.2-13.6 will make power in a motor until you test those different AFs with THAT SPECIFIC motor in question on a dyno?

Just trying to get a general consensus here and I am open to any enlightenment on this topic."



This is a quote from a knowledgeable k20a.org user in answer to my question: "Depends on the fuel and the engine. You were pretty much right though,I've never heard of A/F's in the 12's being best on an N/A car."



I also posted the same questions in the ECU Tuning section of this forum, and this is the reply I've gotten so far: "12.9-13.1 a/f is a safer more conservative tune. on K20's 13.2-13.6 a/f WILL make more power but 93+ octane is a must. Additionally, when tuning with 13.2-13.6 a/f it's absolutely critical to get ignition timing correctly to avoid knocking and detonation.

I'm not a tuning expert but as a reference Eric Medina from YOSOLO MOTORSPORTS is known by many to be one of, if not the best HONDA tuner in the east coast and he tunes around the 13.2-13.6 area. His power-bands are almost completely flat, consistently. The only person I know that can get 220whp out of a internally stock bolt on K20a2."



So it seems like the only reason to tune to 12.9-13.1 IF YOU DON'T PROVE IT MAKES MORE POWER ON A DYNO is to keep cylinder temps lower, which I mentioned before. :)


Suck a dick Bitch, or should I say "NOOB"? :awwyea:
 
#200 ·
You got one response from a guy that says YOSOLO tunes to 13.6, but yet he was tuned by Magnesium. A tuner that recommends and tunes to a max of 13.1. In his response he also mentioned how the tune had to be spot on along with ignition timing because it's tuning to the very limit. Talk to an actual expert and they will tell you the most common and safe a/f for max power and longevity is going to be 12.9-13.1. If you want to put your faith in what someone heard another company does go right ahead. I'll stick to what the experts recommend. Suck on that dick *****.
 
#201 · (Edited)
LOL maybe you're the one that can't read, I got one response on this forum. Did you read everything I posted?

edit: And you are taking the advice of one tuner, not "the experts" in general. I gave you the general consensus of "experts." So did Mag tune your car or did you tune your car? Because in one of your previous posts you gave the impression you tuned your own car...
 
#202 ·
I tuned my car when it dyno'd 207whp All Motor and 312whp on Spray 3 years ago on a Dynojet. It also dyno'd 220whp on a Dynapak with the same setup before I installed the nitrous. When I switched to e85, Magnesium helped me dial in the All Motor tune since I had no previous experience with e85 and he did. Then after I saw what changes needed to be made I tuned the nitrous myself.

The one person that responded to you said that YOSOLO was the only tuner he knew of that could hit 220whp with a stock motor and bolt-on's, and that tuner tunes for 13.2-13.6 A/F's at WOT. My car's a/f was a consistent 13.0-13.1 when I dyno'd 220whp. More sucky sucky for ya ***.
 
#203 ·
YEAH ON A DYNAPAK YOU "NOOOOOB,"

When I get on a Dynojet some day I'll send you a personal message with a link to my numbers that will be higher than 207 whp with a SHORT RAM INTAKE and without an RBC.

Maybe you have some cum in your eyes, because like I said he's the only one that's responded on THIS forum.
 
#205 ·
So how does it feel to be some fuckin loser (I'm guessing what in your mid 30s..?) that goes on online forums calling people "noobs" (of all words, come on) and then gets proven wrong by some "noob" that's 18 years old, only owned an RSX for 2 years, and has only made 137 posts? :dontknow: Don't cry now, it's ok.





:rotfl::rotfl::rotfl:
 
#207 · (Edited)
I could granny shift and still pull your weak ass. I wouldn't even waste my time opening the bottle for you. BTW, that vid is probably 4-5 years old, and was back when I was still spraying a wet shot without K-pro.

If you're gonna share my vids, atleast share a good one like this one against an 03' Cobra.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MXKCmvreKTk

Or this one against a Harrop supercharged Redline that dyno'd 317whp on the same day I dyno'd 312whp.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KR6AvFcj28o
 
#211 ·
Shouldn't have any issues. Run a wet shot with an rpm window switch and that's about it. No need to change the plugs with a small shot like that, but if you wanted to be safe you could go one step colder. I ran a similar setup before switching to K-pro and a dry setup.
 
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