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/*** nats007’s 02 NBP DC-5 K24 JRSC build/progress ***/

29K views 125 replies 57 participants last post by  nats007 
#1 · (Edited)
PROGRESSION OF MY DC-5...

Cliff Notes: Purchased 2006, supercharged 2012, k24a2 swapped 2014, meth injected 2016. My car was last dyno tuned at 268whp/213wtq at 5psi at 7600rpm in 2015.

As of 2017, I started to learn how to tune after installing a smaller boost pulley and a prototype mercracing inlet. Based on the pulley swap, new inlet, and introduction of water methanol injection, preliminary results are below:


Est. power is 283whp/230wtq at 9psi with no meth. With meth, est. power is 301whp/231wtq at 9psi. Also note, the second half of the graph plots AFR (bold lines) and IGN (dotted lines).

2018 Update: completed self tuning earlier this year. Estimate power is 304whp/237wtq at 8.5psi with water methanol injection (single port 1000cc/min). Current bay setup as follows:




Page 2 - Documents my K20 JRSC install pics (previous setup)
Page 3 - Documents the K24 swap/install (current setup)


Current Mod list

Performance
* Kpro v3
* 2006 K24A2
* JRSC M62 Eaton blower
* MercRacing protoype inlet
* 3.0 inch boost pulley
* K24A2 crank pulley
* Hasport Intake Adapter
* Hondata IMG
* 4130Fab modified K20A2 oil pump
* Fuel Injector Clinic 775cc injectors
* Custom 3" SRI with Blox air filter + velocity stack
* Maxbore OEM Throttle body
* Acuity Throttle Position Sensor
* AEM Water/Methanol Injection Kit (1000cc nozzle)
* GM 3bar map sensor
* OBD I GSR IAT sensor relocated to blower manifold
* OBX v1 RH + 2.5" Flowmaster HP-2 + 2.5" Dynomax Super Turbo Muffler
* Jmercado auto tensioner bracket
* Gatorback 4060817 belt
* Exedy Organic Stage 1 clutch kit w/ 11lb Competition flywheel
* MFactory Helical LSD
* OEM differential bearings
* Hardrace Motor Mounts
* Mishimoto radiator, Mishimoto slim fan shroud kit, and Mishimoto fan switch
* Power steering delete w/ KTuned EP3 adjustable idler pulley

Aesthetics / Interior
* A-Spec front lip
* A-Spec spoiler
* ITR Sideskirts
* 15% Tint
* Blackout headlights
* Tail Redouts
* CRSX shit knob #23, CRSX adapter, CRSX black suede w/ red stitch boot
* JVC Arsensal KD-A735BT
* Infinity Basslink
* Yellow Depo Fogs
* 4300k HIDs low beam
* Custom Honda valve cover
* EP3 spark plug cover
* OEM Moonroof visor

Wheels/Suspension
* 2004 OEM A-Spec wheels with 235/45r17 BFG Sport Comp 2s
* Set of 17x7.5+45 Sparco Trofeo 5
* Mugen Replica front and rear strut bar
* Tein S-Tech lowering springs
* 22mm Progress Rear Sway w/ Tie Bar
* Ingalls Front and Rear polyurethane camber kit

To be installed - sitting in garage
* MTEC Race shift springs
* EPS


My sleeper (current) http://forums.clubrsx.com/images/smilies/shady.gif






Please feel free to check out the progress pics throughout. Feedback welcomed. I plan on autocrossing in the near future and the drag strip once it's all sorted out

Historical progression:

















Jan 2013 - Tuned by magnEsium
Dyno pull:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kdXggCg7QCw&feature=youtube_gdata_player

2014


2012



Older pics:


Hosted on Fotki


Hosted on Fotki


Hosted on Fotki


Hosted on Fotki
 
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20
#35 ·
And the build starts...

First, I'm doing this all solo. Even after reading all the instructions, reviewing all the install pics threads, webistes, etc. I guarantee there will be something missed. The good thing is that I remained persistent and learned a lot. There were some times were I felt I got in over my head, but thankfully, I was able to work through and the guys on the CRSX forums have been a tremendous help!

With that, here are some pics and lessons learned during my install. I'm still not complete, but should have everything done by the end of the month :pray:

Acquiring parts for the build:











Last shot N/A:


Throttle body off (LESSON LEARNED: Get a new gasket... had to order one)


Ended up cleaning the IACV:


Intake mani off:


Garage with pieces all over:


More shots to come... have to jump on a plane to D.C.
 
#40 ·
Thank you, Sir!

if youre installing that supercharger by yourself, good luck
Yeah, it was definitely a challenge. Part of the reason I'm upset that I had to take it back off. I should have it back on after Thanksgiving

Welcome man, and great progress so far! Looks good
Thank you, Sir!

I think he already finished lol from the central florida chat …looking great man:thumbsup:
Thank you, Sir! Yes, I was done, but the starter lead got pinched and caused a major short circuit :shakehead I pulled the blower out on Saturday, fixed the short circuit, but the damn knock sensor broke :face:

Once the new sensor comes in, I'll put the car back together and finally get it running officially :thumbsup:
 
#42 · (Edited)
continues...

Another note: I've elected not to install the alternator spacers, so it saved some time with the install. Here are some more pics.

stock mani gasket removed and placed paper towels in the block to prevent foreign objects from falling in:


power steering pulley off


power steering, oem tensioner, and passenger motor mount removed


jmercado bracket and oem tensioner installed:


motor mount installed (Lesson Learned: PAY ATTENTION. This pic shows that it can be installed upside down. I realized it about 2 hours later :face: )


another shot of jmerc bracket and everything lined up


headlight trimmed:


first test fit of the blower in place:





Day 2 - attached the blower. By far the hardest part, especially trying to hold it by yourself and catching the bolts with a loose Hondata IMG moving around :shakehead Once I got it, things started going a little better

after couple of hours.. lost count, finally got the blower mounted :thumbsup:


ended up breaking the idle air assist valve, so I just deleted it


New belt routing (Lesson Learned: As you can see, I flipped the motor mount back to the correct position)


belt installed (Lesson Learned - when using the jmerc bracket to reuse the auto tensioner, the belt path is NOT the same as it was with the JRSC manual tensioner. Please refer to the jmerc site for the belt routing as I was lost for about 20 mins thinking the belt is TOO long)


fuel rail with new injector and plug an play adapter clips (no splicing or soldering needed)


fuel rail installed into blower:




plug for idle air assist:


new plugs:


stock plugs vs. the new:



Got all that installed and had to go on travel for work. The following weekend, I put back on the throttle body, intake, MAP sensor and took this shot :beerchug:

 
#43 ·
This past weekend, I rolled the car out of the garage to try and start it. I received my first kal from magnEsium who is providing my tuning services 2 weeks ago and was waiting on me for the first set of datalogs.

Pumped and ready to go, I try reconnect the negative terminal on the battery and it sparks really bad, scars the terminal, and smokes. I was like oh shit, what did I do. The only electrical I did was wire the 3 bar MAP sensor and I knew I did it right. Turned out after talking with the supercharger guys, they said I have a short it its most likely the starter lead. I did several tests with a multimeter and a test light to see if it could be anything else, but it was not.

Huge disappointment, but had to fix it. So, pulled off the blower and sure enough



started to remove the harness and the damn knock sensor snapped with the slightest tug



Charger guys told me they break very easily, but now I'm waiting on a replacement to put the blower back on.

Here is the fix and repositioned starter lead as of now


I confirmed that the short was fixed and the battery is not sparking when I touch the terminal with the negative terminal.

I should have the knock sensor in this week and I should be able to get the blower back on the last week of NOV and finally get tuned up and see how the car runs.

Will keep you guys updated...
 
#44 ·
#47 ·
Thank you Sir :bow:

Almost done tuning... will post up numbers and a quick photoshoot of the car when all is done :shady:

very helpful write up
Thank you Sir :bow:
 
#48 ·
whp/wtq posted on pg 1. Once the car gets cleaned up, will post proper photos. Been a busy couple months for me to include work, buying a new house, and prepping for my daughter. All and all, I'm extremely happy with the S/C and its definitely a sleeper :shady:
 
#50 ·
Some recent acquisitions...

I haven't had much time to play with the RSX, but getting ready to put in some work...







Current bay shot


Updating thread to get motivated to finish the following within the next few months:
* Install HR MMs
* Install RH
* Install 2.5" custom exhaust
* Fix snapped bolt on jmerc auto tensenior
* Install MTEC race springs
* Install new OEM tail light gaskets
* Install Honda VC after paint
* DIY clearing the headlights
* Fix hole in trunk
* Clean/detail dirty car
* Re-tune

That will be it for now... I was going to paint the A-Spec front lip and rear, but decided I'll hold off until I re-spray the car.
 
#53 ·
K24 + JRSC content

After a few months of collecting parts, I finally got my swap going.













I got the car towed over to my installer and work began...

K20 REMOVED




K24 getting inspected and installing a 4130 Fabrication modified K20 oil pump







Transmission inspection and installation of MFactory LSD with new bearings














K24 with JRSC installed


Up and running :giggity:



At this point, I was glad to see it in and the car running again. Little did I know that I'd be battling overheating for the next month :mad:

So, as I proceed to bleed the coolant system, I noticed my flywheel was exposed


So, I got the TSX engine stiffener
 
#54 · (Edited)
Then I tried every trick out there to bleed the coolant system. Its known that the K24 stills taller, so it's a bitch to burp air out of the system. I bleed the system for 3 weeks ( to include investing in a compressor, coolant vacuum filler, and lisle funnel) and it was still overheating. Then I figured it was a bad thermostat. I bought a new one, installed it, and it was still overheating repeating all the tips (car jacked up, pressure tested coolant system, vacuum filled coolant, and burped until no bubbles). My issue was the thermostat would not stay open. It will open when holding the rev around 3K, but close when you left off. Again, I bled for another week with the new thermostat with no success.







I even pulled this coolant line to help bleed and still no success other than gush coolant all over my garage


I gave up on the damn thermostat and deleted it.


I live in FL, so I don't really have any major concerns running without a thermostat. Rebleed the system and finally no overheating :thumbsup:



Fan cycles on and off as it should... Heat works, A/C works... so things are finally looking normal.

Now that was sorted out, onto the exhaust. I'm running a custom 2.5" with a Flowmaster HP2 as the resonator and a Dynomax Super Turbo Muffler in the back. This catback is mated to a OBX v1 RH. The car sounds quiet at idle and under 2K, but a nice, deep tone when opened up that is not obnoxiously loud. I was against getting a exhaust and was going to keep my 06 Type S exhaust, but I have no complaints with setup and appreciate the recommendations from the supercharged crew!







I'm still running off my old tune, but the car definitely feels stronger. I'm still in the break in period for the LSD and new clutch. I'm hoping to get tuned in the near future, but kind of depleted funds in completing this swap. All in all, glad it's done and I can drive my car again.

I'll update the mod list with final setup
 
#59 ·
:fistbump:
subscribed. are u running a stock k24 long block?
:fistbump: yes, stock K24a2 with a modified K20 oil pump.


Update:

I meant to update this but I need a tune for my new setup. My car hits lean cut at 6K revs on a 4th gear pull. Made a strong 228 which still beat out quite a few S2Ks that were there. I was kind of expecting this to happen but was hoping to get a baseline before my next tune.

I plan on getting tuned in January. Will post updates as I make progress with it.
 
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