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Old 04-17-2008, 06:57 PM   #1
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Wheres the DIY guide to flush the brake fluid?

Anybody know how to do this? like a complete flush and refill?
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Old 04-17-2008, 11:57 PM   #2
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i would also like to know
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Old 04-18-2008, 12:30 AM   #3
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1. stir up the dirty fluid in the master cylinder with a screw driver or something and then use a turkey baster to suck up out all the fluids along with the contaminates.
2. once done fill it up with new fluid.
3. close the lid and have your buddy jump in and pump the brakes a few times slowly until the pedal gets stiff.
4. open the bleeder screw and at the same time have your buddy push down on the pedal, once the pedal is all the way down, close the bleeder screw.
5. repeat step 3-4 until the fluid looks clean (should take about 3-5 tries).
*also make sure you check the brake reservoir from time to time and make sure the brake fluid doesnt get low, if so just add more clean fluid.
6. keep doing steps 3-5 on all the calipers.

*bleeding sequence LF, RF, RR, LR
*its better if you use clear tubing when bleeding/flushing the brakes.
*always use DOT3 brake fluid, preferably honda genuine DOT3 brake fluid.
*you really shouldnt need any more than 3 bottles of brake fluid (honda bottles).
*throw away any remaining open bottles brake fluid because it is very hygroscopic.
*clean any spills of brake fluid immediately with water, it will eat up your paint if you dont.
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Old 04-19-2008, 11:25 AM   #4
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sounds good.. thanks
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Old 05-15-2008, 02:31 PM   #5
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You need to do something with the abs system to activate it so that it goes from the abs back to the master cylinder.
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Old 05-15-2008, 05:38 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mxlu View Post
1. stir up the dirty fluid in the master cylinder with a
I would use an "oil pump"

This is much more efficient and less ghetto than turkey baster. They could be found at any auto parts store for a few bucks.
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Old 08-12-2008, 06:35 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stitch View Post
You need to do something with the abs system to activate it so that it goes from the abs back to the master cylinder.
Anybody know what to do this??
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Old 08-14-2008, 12:53 AM   #8
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???
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Old 08-14-2008, 11:15 AM   #9
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Shouldn't the sequence for bleeding brake calipers start with the farthest caliper from the master cylinder? Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't it: RR, LR, RF, and LF?

Thinking of doing this today and want to do it right without any bubbles.
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Old 08-14-2008, 03:16 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Projekt Pat View Post
Shouldn't the sequence for bleeding brake calipers start with the farthest caliper from the master cylinder? Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't it: RR, LR, RF, and LF?

Thinking of doing this today and want to do it right without any bubbles.
That's the standard way of bleeding the brakes, but the above mentioned procedure is straight from the Helm. Maybe it has to do with ABS. I heard of people doing it both ways and workin fine.
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Old 08-14-2008, 03:39 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stitch View Post
You need to do something with the abs system to activate it so that it goes from the abs back to the master cylinder.
no you dont need a ALB checker or pgm tester to activate the abs pump because we have a compact design, it is only required for older cars that have type like 2-7 and 8.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Projekt Pat View Post
Shouldn't the sequence for bleeding brake calipers start with the farthest caliper from the master cylinder? Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't it: RR, LR, RF, and LF?

Thinking of doing this today and want to do it right without any bubbles.
the bleeding sequence is based on the helms and honda online service manual. it might be do to the abs configuration that is why you start with front driver.
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Old 08-15-2008, 06:16 PM   #12
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if any one can tell me what the diffrence is between bleeding and actually flushing and refilling the brake system. Cause when u bleed, the old fluid will come pouring out untll there are no more bubbles but would it be smarter to keep going until all the old fluid is replaced by new fluid. and how much (quantity in mL) fluid does it take or would I need to do this procedure, Im using honda premium fluid for the rsx s and I have two bottles (354mL each) is that enough?
Also is it better to do this the traditional way with a friend to assist me or attempt to do this on my own with some kind of tool/equipment? Ive read all kinds of versions on how to do this and still I a little confused on the exact way to proceed.
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Old 08-15-2008, 08:40 PM   #13
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yes its better to flush out the system rather then bleed it but if your fluid isnt dirty there is no reason to flush it.

two bottles should be enough just dont get carried away when bleeding each caliper once you start seeing clean fluid coming out then you should be set.

i prefer the have a friend in the car method because it seems it does a better job. when you have your buddy push on the brakes make sure he doesnt push the pedal all the way down to the floor cause it can damage the master cylinder, just go down 1/2 or 3/4 the way til it gets stiff.
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Old 08-15-2008, 09:28 PM   #14
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did u use a clear hose(plastic tube) ,one end installed on the bleeder screw and the other end submerged in some clean break fluid or water and all placed within a clear bottle?
and once u depress the break pedal as the bleeder screw is open wont the pedal under the assistants foot lose all pressure and quickly sink to the floor it wont get stiff like u said.

but if i understand what ure trying to say its that if the bleeder screw is closed the pedal will stiffen after a few pumps and if the bleeder screw is open then the pedal will quickly lose its pressure and like i said before it sink to the floor. That means something should be placed under the brake pedal in order to prevent the pedal from reaching and making contact with the floor. maybe a peaceof wood or something like that.

Does all this make sense to u?
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Old 08-16-2008, 05:32 PM   #15
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come on guys i really need the info to get this job startedand done the right way because messing up when flushing the brake fluid system can have many consequences.
like no more brakes
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Old 08-16-2008, 05:35 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pk8929 View Post
Anybody know how to do this? like a complete flush and refill?
its under search
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Old 08-16-2008, 06:18 PM   #17
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just dont let it go down to the floor when pumping but when you relieve the pressure just let it sink til the pedal stops.

the procedures are in the attachment.
ACE - 0.pdf
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Old 08-16-2008, 08:54 PM   #18
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laughing at the lack of knowledge in this thread

its RR,LR,RF,LF. and you don't have to do shit to the abs since it carries no fluid. fuck what the helms manual says doing it this way allows the clean fluid to get through the system alot faster.
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Old 08-16-2008, 09:00 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mxlu View Post
just dont let it go down to the floor when pumping but when you relieve the pressure just let it sink til the pedal stops.

the procedures are in the attachment.
Attachment 310061
where did you get a pdf of a service manual for 06 rsx?
eidt: nevermind, see its alldata not the helms. `
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Old 08-21-2008, 04:23 AM   #20
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where did you get a pdf of a service manual for 06 rsx?
eidt: nevermind, see its alldata not the helms. `
all the stuff on alldata is scans of the helms.
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Old 08-22-2008, 09:43 AM   #21
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the bleeding sequence really doesnt matter
if you want super duper stopping use a dot 4 fluid
dont let the master cylinder go dry
its really not hard
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Old 09-04-2008, 08:05 AM   #22
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hey guys dumb question but what color should clean fluid b? I checked mine today and it was pretty dark and it was about 1 inch below the max line. Is that bad?
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Old 09-04-2008, 01:48 PM   #23
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Ya dude you may want to change out that brake fluid as soon as possible. Clean fluid is pretty clear or it may have a slight yellow tint to it and the older it gets the darker it is. Dark fluid means it's time for a change.
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Old 09-04-2008, 09:25 PM   #24
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The safest bet is to flush all the old fluid out of all the lines. Even though only the fluid at the res is exposed to air possibly, over time the moisture may leach down into the rest of the fluid, and that is what we're really concerned with, the moisture that brake fluid absorbs. Moisture in the brake fluid of course lowers the boiling point of the fluid, thereby causing brake problems under moderate to severe use, plus the moisture is not good for the seals and metal surfaces. Oh, and whoever said brake fluid did not go thru the ABS unit was dead wrong. Follow the lines from the M/C and they go right to the ABS unit before they head off to each wheel.
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Old 09-05-2008, 05:52 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stylesp View Post
laughing at the lack of knowledge in this thread

its RR,LR,RF,LF. and you don't have to do shit to the abs since it carries no fluid. fuck what the helms manual says doing it this way allows the clean fluid to get through the system alot faster.
Ok i have no idea where you got that from, but the ABS is an ABS pump (brake fluid goes thru it DUH thats how ABS works and modulates your brakes thats why you feel it thru the pedal) it also has an abs module and an abs pump. Trust me im an auto tech.
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