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Old 05-21-2010, 03:33 PM   #1
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D.I.Y. Shorty Header Install with pics

I searched and didnt see any DIYs on this other than:
"step 1-remove oem header
step 2- install new header."
So I thought I'd write it up for you.

It's not a difficult install, but some of the bolts may be a pain to get loose.
A good trick to use is locking one wrench onto another one essentially increasing the length of the wrench and giving you more torque.
(not my picture)


So, your old header looks like this:

So you say to yourself, "this sucks. I want a cool header that will make my car faster, sound cooler, and look sweet!"

So you order your new shorty header. (Mine's a Spooled Up Racing header)


a new header will have more smooth transitions in the bends, allowing better airflow through the exhaust. This is why its better than stock.

Start by jacking up the front of your car and putting it on jackstands.
(make sure its sturdy before getting under it.)

slide under your car and find where the downpipe meets the shorty header. There will be two spring-loaded bolts there. They are 12mm. Remove those two bolts.
(view of bolts from above)


optional: take out the two 10mm bolts holding the power steering tube and throttle cable to the valve cover. having these cables loose will allow you to move them around and make it easier to reach the bolts on the header.

Now, from the top, find the header (back of the engine [duh])
There are 5 bolts holding it on. The top two are just nuts, the bottom three are whole bolts. All 5 are 14mm.

Its tricky to get into the tight space, but if I can do it, you can too. once you get them all out, the header is loose.

Pull off the header and get it out of the engine bay.

pull off the metal gasket that was between the header and the engine.

Put the new gasket (that came with the header) where the old one was.

Put the new header in place. Line it up with the downpipe, and line it up with the engine.

Start with the two nuts, put them on loosely, then do the bolts. once all the bolts and nuts are on (excluding the ones under the car) tighten them all down. They've gotta be very tight in order to make a good seal and not make your engine smoke.
Once they're tight, get back under the car and reinstall the sprung bolts (no pun intended).
Once it's all tight, you're set.

Start it up. Then check your engine. If its a lot louder, you may not have a good seal and you're likely to have a lot of smoke in your engine bay.
Mine smoked a little bit, but after I drove it around the block, it stopped smoking and set in.

Its pretty straight forward. Go for it, you can have it done in an hour or two.
Great way to add a little power and make your rsx growl!

Thanks for reading. Good luck and enjoy!

before:

After:
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Old 05-21-2010, 03:34 PM   #2
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Old 05-21-2010, 03:39 PM   #3
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I know its an easy install, but any job can seem overwhelming until someone shows you how to do it.
I usually search for a diy before I do any job, just to see what it's going to take. Its easier than getting in there and pulling bolts until its fixed.
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Old 05-21-2010, 03:43 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyinRyan02S View Post
I know its an easy install, but any job can seem overwhelming until someone shows you how to do it.
I usually search for a diy before I do any job, just to see what it's going to take. Its easier than getting in there and pulling bolts until its fixed.
exactly. thats why people need DIY's for brakes and oil changes! simple but if youve never done it before its frightening
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Old 05-21-2010, 03:52 PM   #5
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exactly. thats why people need DIY's for brakes and oil changes! simple but if youve never done it before its frightening
I couldn't agree more.
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Old 05-21-2010, 10:44 PM   #6
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review?
did u feel anything?
always wondered if there was a difference.
but i got a RH already
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Old 05-21-2010, 11:24 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyinRyan02S View Post
I searched and didnt see any DIYs on this other than:
"step 1-remove oem header
step 2- install new header."
So I thought I'd write it up for you.

It's not a difficult install, but some of the bolts may be a pain to get loose.
A good trick to use is locking one wrench onto another one essentially increasing the length of the wrench and giving you more torque.
(not my picture)


So, your old header looks like this:

So you say to yourself, "this sucks. I want a cool header that will make my car faster, sound cooler, and look sweet!"

So you order your new shorty header. (Mine's a Spooled Up Racing header)


a new header will have more smooth transitions in the bends, allowing better airflow through the exhaust. This is why its better than stock.

Start by jacking up the front of your car and putting it on jackstands.
(make sure its sturdy before getting under it.)

slide under your car and find where the downpipe meets the shorty header. There will be two spring-loaded bolts there. They are 12mm. Remove those two bolts.
(view of bolts from above)


optional: take out the two 10mm bolts holding the power steering tube and throttle cable to the valve cover. having these cables loose will allow you to move them around and make it easier to reach the bolts on the header.

Now, from the top, find the header (back of the engine [duh])
There are 5 bolts holding it on. The top two are just nuts, the bottom three are whole bolts. All 5 are 14mm.

Its tricky to get into the tight space, but if I can do it, you can too. once you get them all out, the header is loose.

Pull off the header and get it out of the engine bay.

pull off the metal gasket that was between the header and the engine.

Put the new gasket (that came with the header) where the old one was.

Put the new header in place. Line it up with the downpipe, and line it up with the engine.

Start with the two nuts, put them on loosely, then do the bolts. once all the bolts and nuts are on (excluding the ones under the car) tighten them all down. They've gotta be very tight in order to make a good seal and not make your engine smoke.
Once they're tight, get back under the car and reinstall the sprung bolts (no pun intended).
Once it's all tight, you're set.

Start it up. Then check your engine. If its a lot louder, you may not have a good seal and you're likely to have a lot of smoke in your engine bay.
Mine smoked a little bit, but after I drove it around the block, it stopped smoking and set in.

Its pretty straight forward. Go for it, you can have it done in an hour or two.
Great way to add a little power and make your rsx growl!

Thanks for reading. Good luck and enjoy!

before:

After:
Can a RH be installed the same way? I thought it'd be harder but I guess the really hard part is getting the old bolts loose. Did you have a lift or just jack up the car?
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Old 05-22-2010, 12:39 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PK-Tuning View Post
review?
did u feel anything?
always wondered if there was a difference.
but i got a RH already
I noticed a difference. It sounds better when you're on the throttle, it pulls harder, and looks cooler. Its definitely an upgrade from stock. the stock header had some sharp angles in the piping, but this header smooths out a lot of that. I'm sure a RH does it a little better, but I dont have the $$ for that right now. The one I got is $125 shipped from Spooled Up Racing, and I think that's a good deal. If you have the money to burn though, go for a race header.

Quote:
Originally Posted by UM_DC5 View Post
Can a RH be installed the same way? I thought it'd be harder but I guess the really hard part is getting the old bolts loose. Did you have a lift or just jack up the car?
I did it the ghetto way with one scissor jack, and two small jackstands. The RH install would be a little more difficult because you have to remove hangers, O2 sensors, and the cat. Then you have to install defoulers and all that fun stuff... I haven't done it yet, so I can't say what all it intails. I'm pretty sure someone else wrote up a DIY for the RH though. check the Giant DIY List thread that's stickied.
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Old 01-11-2011, 10:13 PM   #9
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this is awsome, everything i needed at one place, have pretty much the same headers, generic but, o well, do you have an exhaust on too? if so how does it sound.
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Old 01-11-2011, 10:14 PM   #10
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if the exhaust is stock
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Old 01-29-2011, 09:49 PM   #11
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thanks man, I emailed them, do you know if this works with the 06 type s, though?
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Old 03-01-2011, 08:28 AM   #12
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Is the gasket the same as the stock one? Bought a shorty header and I need a new gasket.
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Old 03-01-2011, 04:27 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alex.situ View Post
Is the gasket the same as the stock one? Bought a shorty header and I need a new gasket.
When I bought my header, it says to re-use the oem one, but I went ahead and bought a new one anyways your choice.
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Old 03-01-2011, 04:33 PM   #14
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How much was the gasket?
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Old 03-01-2011, 04:35 PM   #15
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How much was the gasket?
GASKET $25.20 for 05-06
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Old 03-05-2011, 02:02 PM   #16
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my header came with the gasket.
Gotta love SpooledUpRacing!
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Old 05-14-2011, 10:37 AM   #17
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pretty decent write up.

anyone know what happened to the older diy rh threads???!!
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Old 05-14-2011, 10:42 AM   #18
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pretty decent write up.

anyone know what happened to the older diy rh threads???!!
...thanks?
the DIYs for exhaust are kind of hard to find. People dont like to take pics while lying on the ground. Also, the exhaust systems are pretty simple. if you want to replace a pipe, unbolt it and put in the new one.
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Old 05-25-2011, 11:10 PM   #19
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I'm guessing the weird bracket that comes down and bolts onto the circular extension on the bottom where the stock header meets the downpipe is no longer used neither the bolts?
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Old 05-31-2011, 07:14 AM   #20
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i ordered a dc sport 4-2-1 1 piece header, but i didnt realize are you suppose to use the stock downpipe?
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Old 06-07-2011, 12:06 AM   #21
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Yep. Got mine today, just waiting on the new donut gasket. I was a little disappointed to find no new header to block gasket came with it. I wonder if I should replace the bolts and nuts also.
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Old 06-07-2011, 12:09 AM   #22
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Yep. Got mine today, just waiting on the new donut gasket. I was a little disappointed to find no new header to block gasket came with it. I wonder if I should replace the bolts and nuts also.
it'll look slightly better with new stainless bolts, but they wont make much difference otherwise. Also, the header is on the back of the engine, so most likely, you're probably the only one who will notice.
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Old 06-07-2011, 01:38 AM   #23
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Old 06-07-2011, 11:53 PM   #24
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Ya I told my Dad it's probably a bling thing but he is such a perfectionist and his "Old rusty bolts" quotes are getting to me lol. He spent wayyyy to much time over reacting on new bolts, gaskets, etc when he had his 69 Camaro in High School from what my mom says lol.
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Old 06-09-2011, 08:18 PM   #25
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I just finished installing mine. The only stupid thing is the base has a bracket with two arms instead of one. The arms didn't quite line up with the header, but when I tightened the bolts down it brought it up to it I guess this is ok cuz if anything bends it'll be the bracket arms right?

There doesn't seem to be any slack now so the rubber hangar is pretty useless since there is no wiggle hope I didn't tighten something down too tight.

Last but, not least, I was disappointed to find the vibrant performance donut gasket (smaller one) didn't fit my header, I guess I need to shave it around the inside a bit? Fpr now I'm rocking my stock one but, I wanna get the vibrant performance one on soon.
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