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Old 05-18-2008, 10:13 PM   #1
whoishomer
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ByPass Bose Amp AND use factory Sub

After doing some searching and a lot of reading I found a couple ways of doing this. Below is a combination of different ways that worked best for me.

1. Use the Standard bypass method:
Take the seat off ( four bolts, and unplug both cables to the bose amp.
Now that the harness is exposed, cut the electrical tape off and pull the black plastic wire hosing about 3 inches and cut it off. This will expose about 4-5 inches of wires to work with, plus afterwards the wires won't be as packed together; therefore, it'll be easier to tap.

Afterwards just follow the instructions below from the bypass guide and tap all 18 wires. You can link the 2 tappers with the 18-22 gauge wire, make sure they're snug afterwards.


Harness Wire Layout:
1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13
14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24 | 25 | 26

Harness Wire Blueprint:
1 | GRY/RED | Passenger's Door Speaker (-), Right tweeter (-)
2 | GRN/YEL | Passenger's Door Speaker (+), Right weeter (+)
3 | BLU/RED | Constant power
4 | ------- | Not Used
5 | BRN | Radio Switch
6 | LT GRN | Rear stereo amplifier - bass signal (+)
7 | RED | Audio unit - Right Rear (-)
8 | GRN | Audio unit - Right Front (-)
9 | BLK | Audio unit - Left Rear (-)
10 | BRN | Audio unit - Left Front (-)
11 | ------- | Not Used
12 | BLU/ WHT | Left Rear Speaker (+)
13 | BLU/BLK | Left Rear Speaker (-)

14 | BLU/YEL | Right Rear Speaker (-)
15 | PNK | Right Rear Speaker (+)
16 | BLK | Ground (G502)
17 | WHT/BLU | Shielding
18 | ------- | Not Used
19 | GRN/WHT | Rear Amplifier - bass signal (-)
20 | YEL | Audio Unit - Right Rear (+)
21 | ORN | Audio unit - Right Front (+)
22 | WHT | Audio unit - Left Rear (+)
23 | BLU | Audio unit - Left Front (+)
24 | ------- | Not Used
25 | LT GRN | Left Tweeter (-) drivers door speaker (-)
26 | GRN/BLK | Driver's Door Speaker (+), Left Tweeter (+)

Wire Tapping Guide
7->14
8->1
9->13
10->25
20->15
21->2
22->12
23->26




2. Leave the bose bypassed wiring harness unplugged, but plug in the smaller secondary one. After this your factory deck will still work (if your waiting for your after market HU to get in), with the bose wiring harness bypassed and unplugged, you just need to turn it way up to hear anything. Test that all the speakers are working.

3.Next you will hook up the new HU into the factory sub. When installing the HU, make sure to Connect the remote turn on (blue/white) wire on the harness supplied with the new aftermarket HU to the power antenna (blue) wire on the honda harness you purchased.

4. Connect a RCA cable(s) to your sub out on your new HU. Run this down to the bose amp under the passenger seat. You will need to cut the RCA cable to expose the 2 cables inside of it. The inner cable is positive and the outer cabling is the negative.

5. Connect the inner cable of the RCA to 6 (LT Green) and the outer cabling to 19 (GRN/WHT)

RCA Positive -> 6
RCA Negative ->19

6. Doing it this way gives you control of the sub level through your HU, and this way you don't need to cut any of the bypassed cables, so its fairly easy to go back to stock if required.

7. To summerize:
Standard Bypass
Leave primary bose cable unplugged but plug in the secondary one
Run an RCA cable and tap that into 6 and 19.

Now you have aftermarket HU bypassing bose amp for speakers, but running factory amp/sub


Hopefully this sames someone a lot of searching
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Old 05-19-2008, 08:55 PM   #2
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Has anyone else tried this?
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Old 05-22-2008, 11:42 PM   #3
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what RCA cable did you use? do you only cut one of the cables( white or red) or both, or do you have like a 2-to-1 kinda cable? im a little confused...
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Old 05-23-2008, 10:22 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mfarzin View Post
what RCA cable did you use? do you only cut one of the cables( white or red) or both, or do you have like a 2-to-1 kinda cable? im a little confused...
My head unit only had one RCA out for the sub. If yours has 2 outs, just use a 2-1 cable, or cut both of them and tap them in
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Old 05-23-2008, 01:26 PM   #5
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I might try this
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Old 06-10-2008, 12:07 AM   #6
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I'm confused about how you connect the RCA's to wires 6 and 19. I understand you have to cut the ends of the RCA's off but I don't get what to do from there. could you be more specific
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Old 06-30-2008, 03:08 PM   #7
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one the rca which color is neg and with is pos, red, white you don't explain, not everyone knows which is neg and pos
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Old 07-01-2008, 09:32 PM   #8
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just let me say i did this today, bypassing the amp and doing the bose sub with the rca, while i was doing the sub part, i was hooking it up and it wasn't working at all, then i was looking at the rcas and i found out why when he said the inner cable is pos and outer is neg i also have a picture of it, you will see what he ment, it sounds great.


Last edited by Chinaone; 07-01-2008 at 09:40 PM..
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Old 07-01-2008, 09:41 PM   #9
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mad probs
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Old 07-04-2008, 07:47 PM   #10
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Ok, I've been reading and searching and I'm not sure how to wire up my project. I've got a S2000 and I bought a spare tire sub from one of your forum members. I'm just trying to find out how to wire it up. I've already got RCA, power, ground, and remote run to the trunk. Any help? I'm not trying to hijack this thread, it just won't let me start a new one until I have 10 posts.
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Old 07-07-2008, 10:38 AM   #11
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I found the wire going into the amp is:
Black-ground
Orange-power
Purple-speaker
Yellow-speaker
Ground and power are obvious, but what about the speaker wires? Is one positive and the other negative? You have left and right RCA wires and each has a pos. and neg. I'm confused here and hoping someone knows how to wire this sucker up.
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Old 07-08-2008, 08:26 PM   #12
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if you have two rca cables then you connect them together pos with pos and neg with neg
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Old 07-08-2008, 09:26 PM   #13
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Ok cool. But then connect them to which wires on the bose harness? Is yellow and purple positive and negative?
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Old 07-09-2008, 02:46 AM   #14
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ok hopefully you guys can help me out here,

My headunit is a Alpine CDA-9855
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-iaqb2IM...x?i=500CDA9855

My Amp is a Alpine 2/1 channel MRV-T420
http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/pro...ts_id/381.html

My subs are 2-12' Alpine type Rs + a lightning audio cap

I used to have everything in my last car before getting it put into the rsx and i think it used to sound better, only difference was in my last car i also had some alpine type s door speakers and all the speakers were ran through the deck I belive..

When I had the shop install everything into the rsx they told me that they were running the speakers through the stock bose amp still, and that it was better off that way then running it through the alpine deck. my alpine amp is running my type Rs just like before.. anyways to make a long story short i feel like im not getting enough outta my system, I know they turned something down on my alpine amp because they said it was set to high, im wondering if they did that to try to level out for the amount of volume being produced from the bose amp/speakers vs the subs.

Would I be better off to cut out the bose amp and run the speakers off the deck and find out what they turned down on my amp? If so do the instuctions above apply to me??

Thanx
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Old 07-09-2008, 06:19 AM   #15
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Sounds like the may have the gain set differently than you had in the past, Is the sub out level on the HU all the way up as Alpine HU's only produce full power to the sub out with the sub level all the way up. Also they may have changed the xover point, you may have had it at 80 hz and they may have it set to 60 which would decrease the out put as well esp in the upper bass frequencies.
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Old 07-10-2008, 05:14 PM   #16
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Okay so i tried to bypass the amp today and took all 16 wires and ended up with 8 conections.. i turned the car on after and i have next to no voloume at all, its almost like my deck isnt aplifying it, but i do have control to fade from front to back and left to right but i have like next to no volume AT ALL!? my aftermarket subs n amp still work fine though and i have no need for the hidden stock sub

any ideas whats gone wrong
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Old 02-10-2009, 04:02 PM   #17
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can anyone PLEASE help. I'm selling my car and am returning everything back to stock. I have done this amp bypass and was very happy with it for my aftermarket headunit. However, I have now reinstalled the Bose headunit and there's almost no volume because the amp is being bypassed. So i need to undo the amp bypass, but when I originally did the bypass I cut the wires too short on the connector so i can splice back into them, how can I fix this? I need a new connector or harness or is there some way to get new pins from somewhere and repin the existing connector? Any help would be greatly appreciated as I have an out-of-state buyer coming on the 21st to get the car, this HAS to be fixed by then. Thanks!
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Old 02-10-2009, 10:36 PM   #18
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what about the other method by mistahsparklez? doesn't that do the same thing but easier?
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Old 02-28-2009, 06:31 PM   #19
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So basically you are running an unamplified signal straight to the Bose subwoofer?

Does the Bose subwoofer have it's own amplifier?

Just wanted to understand before I start splicing wires
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Old 03-01-2009, 04:28 AM   #20
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So basically you are running an unamplified signal straight to the Bose subwoofer?

Does the Bose subwoofer have it's own amplifier?

Just wanted to understand before I start splicing wires
the bose sub is powered by the bose amp under the pass seat
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Old 03-01-2009, 02:34 PM   #21
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the bose sub is powered by the bose amp under the pass seat
But when I read these instructions, it sounds to me like I have to run an unamplified signal (Subwoofer RCA's) on the back of my Pioneer head unit straight to the Bose subwoofer?! Or am I supposed to splice the wires and plug the harness (with the remaining wires) into the Bose amp? But it says that to leave the harness unplugged (except the power block). So it would help me to understand where the amplification occurs.
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Old 03-01-2009, 03:03 PM   #22
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The amp for the sub is inside of it, if you take it apart you'll see, 50Wx2
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Old 03-01-2009, 03:56 PM   #23
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The amp for the sub is inside of it, if you take it apart you'll see, 50Wx2
really? so the signal travels through the bose amp under the seat to the built-in amp in the sub?
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Old 03-07-2009, 06:54 PM   #24
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I made this change to my stereo, and I hear the Bose subwoofer. But when I turn on/off the headunit or change the source, I hear a thump-thump which is clearly from the Bose subwoofer. This is really annoying as it's a noticeably loud.

The head unit is a Pioneer DEH-5800MP.

Are there any changes I need to make in the Pioneer settings? I assume I set it to Pre Out, non-fading? I don't know much about subwoofers.
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Old 03-09-2009, 05:34 PM   #25
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I had my stuff installed this weekend. They routed new wires to the speakers and rca cables to my new amps but also did the bypass of the bose amp. Was this necessary still?
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