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Old 08-16-2009, 03:18 PM   #1
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d.i.y. k24a2 swap thread

i went from a k20a3 to the k24a2, with a base rsx retaining the transmission from the base. pics are in no particular order

i just finished mine a week ago, and i think a thread with experiences would be of great ebenfit to others. heres some parts you will need to make the swap easier:

K-PRO K-PRO K-PRO K-PRO IF YOU DONT HAVE K-PRO STOP AND DO NOT ATTEMPT THE SWAP UNTIL YOU GET THE DAMN K-PRO!!!!!!!!!!!!!

cr-v or element passenger side front cover mount
innovative motor mounts 60a, full set (recommended)
upgraded clutch (recomended)
rbc (uncut) or k24 intake manifold (this is to save time and effort from tapping the head if you use a k20 manifold)
helms manual for the rsx
type s throttle body (complete with sensors)
thermal intake manifold gasket (k24)
karcepts or blox adapter
type s intake and air filter of your choice, i went with a injen cai
upper tsx radiator hose ( this is where i got mine


i also recomend since you will have the motor out, replacing the serpentine belt, and all the radiator hoses. dont buy the damn samco hoses like i did. you will have to trim the lower hose to fit properly, and the upper one will bend too much and will be pretty much useless.



parts you will have to re-use:
power steering pump
alternator
thermostat housing
crank sensor
harness
kpro (if you dont have this, stop, do not go any further, do not attempt the swap until you get it)
header or exhaust manifold
black metal evap and vacuum piping that ran from the side of the cylinder head



its best to read the damn helms first, they have a step by step process on pulling the motor, which i wish i would have read first.


parts or options you will not be able to use after swap:
the a/c low press hose wont clear properly the rbc. even if it does, one hard ass launch and the manifold will crush the fitting on the hose and you can kiss it goodbye. however, here is a solution:
http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=645927

also, i havent attempted to reconnect the cruise control throttle cable

put the car on jack stands, preferable on all four corners. the swap is pretty easy, basically you disconnect the battery, then the harness from the ecu, pull the harness out of the fire wall, disconnect the charge harness and the harness from the radiator, disconnect the a/c lines and power steering lines. if you disconnect the a/c and power steering, get ready for one hell of a mess with oil. disconnect the shifting cables, the slave cylinder (unbolt the bracket, dont disconnect the lines, but do disconnect the line brackets from the tranny, and move the assembly out of the way. also disconnect the throttle cables. remove cv joints.



raise the car, get under drain the radiator and the engine. once its all done, disconnect the radiator hoses and the vacuum lines leading to the master cylinder. also disconnect the hoses going into the heater core. disconnect the fuel rail. even with the radiator drain coolant will be everywhere, keep your dogs and other pets the hell away. disconnect the header too while your under the car, its best if you simply remove it altogether.


once you have the motor disconnected completely, connect the hoist hookups on the tranny. now your gonna have to be creative about the pass side mount. we used a ratchet strap and had it wrap around the mount ear (coming from the front cover mount to the body cup mount) . once you get tension on the hoist, cherry picker what have you, lift. your car should come off the jacks. as long as you have the emergency brake on, nothing should happen but the front lifts. this is just to check and make sure you have the hoist on correctly. once you verify this, lower the hoist, but keep light tension on the hoist. make sure the car is still sitting on the jack stands, and its safe.

get under the car, and using your trusty 17mm, unbolt the rear and front mounts by loosening and pulling out the big ass bolt that goes through them. come back up from the car, and on the tranny mount, we found no other way to deal with it other than unbolting the entire mess, retaining plate and the whole mount. then on the pass side, unbolt the ear from the body cup mount. once you have checked and double checked everything is disconnected, have a friend lift the hoist while you guide the motor out. it will try to grab everthing on its way out. lift the engine and move it to a safe and clear work area.

on the k20 engine:
remove all the pumps and alternator.
remove tranny from engine
disconnect the entire harness from motor
unbolt and gently pry out the crank sensor (i had to, you may not)



on the k24a2 engine:
install all the pumps and alternator
install clutch
install the k20 thermostat housing, but reuse the black metal tubing from the k24, as well as the hoses from the k24 thermostat housing.
install tranny
install intake manifold
install crank sensor
install throttle body and everything else (note! if using k20a3 harness, you will have to re-wire the tps. its very easy to do. if the wires go into the harness like this ----->123, you will rewire it like this ----->321. you simply reverse the outside wires. you may also have to extend the wires.
you may also have to extend the wires to the ect sensor.
install black piping for vacuum and evac on the side of the cylinderhead as before, reconnect all vacuum lines from manifold and throttle body


once you have everything wired up and ready to go, connect the engine and tranny the same way you did the other engine, lift with hoist, and gently lower into the bay. during this process we opted to install the header with the engine aboiut 75% of the way into the engine bay. its a lil tricky, but it made it easier for it to clear the sway bar. i knew it was gonna be a pain in the ass to install with the motor all the way in.


continue to lower engine in, and while its still on the hoist, go under and begin to rebolt the engine mounts. you may have to have a friend raise and lower the motor while you attempt to rebolt it, becuase its a lil tricky, but nothing serious.

once you have the engine bolted in place, reconnect everything. you will have to trim the lower radiator hose to get it to fit properly. make sure you use the tsx upper radiator hose to get it to fit properly. before installing the upper radiator hose, pour coolant directly into the fitting for the upper radiator hose on the engine itself, if you dont do this, the motor WILL overheat. install your intake pipe and filter, if your going from a k20a3 to k24a2 you will have to extend the wires to the iat sensor.


once you have verified everything is connected, and i do mean everything, including the damn fuel rail. if you dont reconnect it and try to do the following step, prepare for a bath in fuel. get into the car and boot up k manager on your laptop. this is important, i fucked this up and got a load of errors from using the wrong cal and couldnt understand why. if you using a k24a2 from a 04-05 tsx, do yourself a favor, get the latest update of kmanger and click on open, scroll all the way down to the bottom of the cal list, and low and behold, 04-05 tsx stock. load that cal up. go through it real quick, uncheck the following boxes:
disable idle valve (idle tab)
countershaft driven speed sensor (if you dont uncheck this box you will never hit vtec) (misc tab)

check the following bullet:
multiplexer-normal operation (misc tab)

also make sure you go into the gear comp tab and select the proper transmission


REFILL ALL FLUIDS!!!!

once everything is loaded up to the ecu and you have triple quadruple verified everything is connected properly..........crank that fucking motor


chances are it will not turn over immediately but once it does, if that throttle body was used and hasnt been used in a while, prepare for some mean damn idle surge. if you leave the motor running while checking the k manager for errors, eventually it will stop surging. you might have to turn off the motor after it has run for a while before it does stop but it will, unless the idle air valve is really dirty.

continue to check for leaks and anything else that could cause problems. your gonna want to run the motor with the radiator cap off for a while, until it burps out the air pocket it most likely got from not having any coolant in it.

if i forgot something i will chime back in and update

people i gotta thank:
george harrel for helping with the swap
mike beghtol for offering up his never ending knowledge and helping me get the 4 day pass to get the time off to do the swap
jared for the great deal on the motor
Type-'S'paz for the cr-v bracket and for the info and insight
NxSpeedJunkieNx
chris dye
HrtMyHnDa for the great deals on some of the parts that went into the swap
erik loza for always answering my questions and pointing out how easily i overlook everything without saying a word
wesessiah for remote tuning the k20a3 i had and also helping with this motor
www.horsepowerfreaks.com my sponsors
www.milteknik.com for all the support and motivation
and last but certainly not least,
www.clubrsx.com

if i forgot someone, my bad, i will fix it.


my parts list:
2005 tsx engine
aem uego
prosport oil temp and press gauges
greddy ti-c 70mm exhaust (type s)
inejn cai for type s
innovative motor mounts 60a, full set
competition clutch stage 2 clutch
competition clutch lightweight flywheel
aem fuel rail (not yet installed)
dc sports race header (type s)
k20a3 harness
base rsx transmission
samco lower radiator hose (k20)
gates upper tsx radiator hose
cr-v front cover bracket
integra type r valve cover


other notes
i changed the oil 3 times on this motor, the first oil change was to get the engine running properly, then i changed the oil and drove it for a week, then changed it again. i did this becuase this motor hasnt run in a while, and when we drained the oil it came out capucino. the motor runs fine, so basically i figure the oil looked like shit becuase it had been out in the open around some decent moisture. i will be changing the spark plugs once i get the street tune done.
also- running the cal that comes with the k mangaer update will make the motor run pig rich on w.o.t. . i have seen afr's in the low 11's when i stomp on it, and they slowly climb to the 12s but they dont move from there.




*UPDATE* as of november this combination has been tuned by mike of elite engine tuning. he came highly recomended to me by wessiah and has been doing absolute magic with my swap. his email is in my sig. he has good prices and a shit ton of experience. i highly recomend him myself. he has excellent customer service skills as well. hit him up!
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Old 08-16-2009, 03:21 PM   #2
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Woohoo I'm on the list of people to thank

Very good write up you did! I bet you're loving the k24 swap compared to the base!
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Old 08-16-2009, 03:43 PM   #3
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i need to TUNE!!! im dumping fuel like crazy

fuck yeah i love it

whats weird is how i dont feel the pull like i did from the k20a3, but i watch the speedo climb quickly. and vtec, omg, sweet sexy vtec.

but i seriously need to get to belgium to do a dyno tune, i gotta make better use of the 93 octane we have here. not to mention im rationed gas, so once i use up my shitty little 400 liters, i have to pay out of pocket in euros.

hopefully i didnt forget anything.
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Old 08-16-2009, 03:46 PM   #4
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awsome thread bro, was just looking for all this info literally like 10 min ago
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Old 08-16-2009, 03:59 PM   #5
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i hope it helps anyone out there trying to pull off the swap. im telling you, having vtec is so awesome. i dont think i could go back to the A3, i mean the car just moves so much faster now. i cant say it pulls harder, becuase it honestly doesnt feel like it, but the speedometer tells no lies.
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Old 08-16-2009, 04:06 PM   #6
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haha cant wait for vtec just gotta find the right motor
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Old 08-16-2009, 04:09 PM   #7
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i remember readinf that the 05 k24a2 are a good choice becuase of their cam profiles and they have stronger rods or some shit. my memory sucks so i could be wrong.
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Old 08-16-2009, 06:50 PM   #8
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sick write up, definitely going to need it. if you don't mind me asking how much did the total swap cost?
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Old 08-16-2009, 06:54 PM   #9
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um

i got the motor for 2k
shipping came out to 1500,
the rest of it i cant remember, i can only help you out with brand new prices, becuase some of the stuff i got was used and some was seriously discounted

the exhuast was discounted, i bought it from my sponsor
the rbc was used as well as the blox adapter and throttle body
the intake was used
the clutch and flywheel i bought here while they had that sale
the mounts same person as the rbc but they are brand new
the kpro i already had

im thinking about 5k, maybe a lil more.
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Old 08-16-2009, 08:31 PM   #10
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subscribed - i'll be using this soon hopefully relatively soon

thanks man
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Old 08-18-2009, 10:59 AM   #11
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added some pics, none are in any kind of order
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Old 08-18-2009, 03:33 PM   #12
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looks good man, you live out in germany? i went there 2 years ago and loved it!
enjoy the k24!
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Old 08-18-2009, 03:47 PM   #13
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yup, mannheim. been here for 3 years, spent 9 years of my childhood here, and am moving to baumholder to spend another 3 years. so i will have a total of 15 years in germany when i am done with the army
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Old 08-18-2009, 04:21 PM   #14
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exactly what im planning next year, awesome write up i cant wait to complete this
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Old 08-25-2009, 06:18 PM   #15
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got a tune yet? how does it run compared to a type-s
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Old 08-26-2009, 09:27 AM   #16
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if my gfs d16z6 dies then im buying this and giving her my k20 for her ej1
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Old 08-26-2009, 12:01 PM   #17
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still working out the kinks in the tune, i raced a type s on sunday night and killed him, but i would like to see a race that the guy doesnt quit so soon on
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Old 08-26-2009, 02:32 PM   #18
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nice, i came from base to k24a2 too. tremendous difference. no more almost getting creamed trying to merge on to the highway. get urself a ssr header. i highly recommend it if u have the extra green to shell out for it. I'm curious to see if u got the custom ac line? how did u fix that problem?
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Old 08-26-2009, 02:38 PM   #19
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great! im gunna need this!
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Old 08-26-2009, 02:41 PM   #20
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Good job, Bigdaddy. There is nothing not to like about a K24 in the RSX. It makes the car better in every way.
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Old 08-26-2009, 02:46 PM   #21
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Good job, Bigdaddy. There is nothing not to like about a K24 in the RSX. It makes the car better in every way.
except no more cheap gas for us old base owners
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Old 08-26-2009, 02:48 PM   #22
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nice, i came from base to k24a2 too. tremendous difference. no more almost getting creamed trying to merge on to the highway. get urself a ssr header. i highly recommend it if u have the extra green to shell out for it. I'm curious to see if u got the custom ac line? how did u fix that problem?
a/c delete

im saving up so i can get those custom a/c lines and have a/c again
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Old 08-26-2009, 06:51 PM   #23
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a/c delete

im saving up so i can get those custom a/c lines and have a/c again

Thanks for the Special Thanks.

The K24 is beast. Once u get some wide rims u wont ever have traction problems in first. LOL.

BTW....I was able to swap with my A/C....i wonder y.
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Old 08-26-2009, 09:07 PM   #24
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nice swap! Theres nothing like the feeling of 3lobe vtec huh

any vids?
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Old 08-27-2009, 11:43 AM   #25
rick1024
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rick1024 might be well recognized one day on c-rsx rick1024 might be well recognized one day on c-rsx rick1024 might be well recognized one day on c-rsx rick1024 might be well recognized one day on c-rsx rick1024 might be well recognized one day on c-rsx rick1024 might be well recognized one day on c-rsx rick1024 might be well recognized one day on c-rsx rick1024 might be well recognized one day on c-rsx
i have a vid of my first kill, a type s, but it wasnt properly staged. i asked him if he wanted to go, he said yes, i punched it and he did too, he hit vtec and i was still pulling on him, then i hit vtec and he was no longer by my side, then he brakes and makes a turn


http://www.militarytuners.com/vbulle...ead.php?t=7621
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