A while ago, I posted that I was getting some serious static/noise from my JVC KDSH909. The problem was the Bose amp.
I had just hooked it up with the wiring harness and although the sound quality was better, there was noise. I bypassed the amp this weekend by just putting a jumper wire between the correct wires down at the amp's connector. The noise problem has completely gone away. I highly recommend bypassing the Bose amp. :thumbs up:
I read this whole thread today and plan on bypassing the amp. Why do you need to use wire taps? Why cant you just (for example 1/8 wire hookup)
1) Cut off GRY/RED (#1 diagram) wire from harness (assuming leave an inch or so of the wire going to the harness and taping that end off)
2) Cut off GRN (#8 from diagram) wire from harness (assuming leave an inch or so of the wire going to the harness and taping that end off)
3) Strip the other end of the wires from #1 and #2 about a cm.
4) Crimp a male plug to the Audio Unit wire (#8)
5) Crimp a female plug to the Speaker wire (#1)
6) Plug them together.
Does this avoid the need for the wire splicers? I don't get why you would want to use the splicers on every wire when you can just crimp the male/female connectors directly to the original wires?
I'm going to set up my system soon. I want to take the type s changer head unit, and have it push the rears. I'm going to take a 4-channel SVEN4 LOC and have it push the front and the subs.
My question is should I steal the signal before it goes to the amp, or should I take it at the speaker. I've read that I need to take it after because the signal would be stronger, and in this thread it contradicts saying before is better for a cleaner signal.
Also would I be better off using speaker wire from the seat amp to a LOC in the hatch or using RCAs from the LOC at the amp to the hatch?
I bypassed my amp just like the instructions, but I get no sound. My aftermarket stereo came with an adapter specifically for the bose system. If that is also installed, would that be the reason that no sound is coming?
I bypassed my amp just like the instructions, but I get no sound. My aftermarket stereo came with an adapter specifically for the bose system. If that is also installed, would that be the reason that no sound is coming?
the adapter for the bose system uses the decks preouts for power... thats why its compatible with the bose.. you must use the regular harness for 98+ hondas and hook up the speaker leads if you want to hear anything.
Just to clarify it seems the stock Bose system has no crossover for Low frequency/High frequency separation. The front mids and tweeters are connected.
all of that shit looks confusing.... why not just take the speaker wires from the harness on the aftermarket harness and connect those to the actual speaker wires thats on the bose amp harness? splice and connect?
because in reality, your shit will still be bypassed because the signal is going from the headunit directly to the speakers and all your doing is hooking up 8 wires.
would you still end up getting signal noise that way?
On the aftermarket radio harness
White ( + )
white Black ( - )
^^ Front Right
Gray ( + )
Gray Black ( - )
^^ Front Left
Green ( + )
Green Black ( - )
^^ Rear Left
Purple ( + )
Purple Black ( - )
^^Rear Right
Hook those up accordingly to the wires leading to the speakers. Of course you got to extend the wires from the headunit to the harness on the bose amp
you would find the speaker wires in the harness that go to the speakers...if your asking for colors fuck if i know but there are ways you can tell and find out
i'll let you know once i tackle it. its not that hard, i dont have time to pop my seat up and look....
if you can get it to work then good.. lol but id rather not run wires all over.. if i were to use T taps on the wires, it would be easy.. install all teh taps, cut speaker wires from the amp harness, crimp on connectors, then plug them in the right spots. and plug the harness in the bose amp back in.
one way for the bose sub to work is to have both bose amps on. its possible you can try running some RCA's or something to it, but no point really in doing that. plus the extra voltage that comes from the new deck kinda pushes the voltage up on the bose sub giving you a little bit more output.
no. you dont need to do this if you change to a new amp for your speakers. but if its just an amp for your sub. you will need to bypass the amp, and hook the speakers up to your new stereo.
I have finally bypassed the stock amp and taken it out altogether. It sounds better than stock, and I am not getting nearly as much noise in the background. This really is a simple and effective modification to the stock system. Thanks a bunch Miztahsparklez.
Hey guys do any of you know when you tap into the system at the bose amp inputs whats the easiest way to route the speaker input wires to my amp and sub in the trunk.thanx
I was able to fish the wires under the rear carpet and just lay them under the rear seat which lifts up fairly easily. From there you can access the trunk no problem. I remember the hardest part being actually getting the wires from the bottom of the front seat to go under the carpet. I think a few bolts were removed around the seat anchors to help lift the carpet up and a little patience.
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