A while ago, I posted that I was getting some serious static/noise from my JVC KDSH909. The problem was the Bose amp.
I had just hooked it up with the wiring harness and although the sound quality was better, there was noise. I bypassed the amp this weekend by just putting a jumper wire between the correct wires down at the amp's connector. The noise problem has completely gone away. I highly recommend bypassing the Bose amp. :thumbs up:
After reading through various threads (including this one) I came to the conclusion that these are the options when installing a new HU
1. Do nothing, leave the Bose amp in, thus double amplifying the signal and risking damage to components.
2. Use the 70-1725 wiring harness. This uses the Bose amp to amplify the low-level pre-outs on the new HU.
3. Use the PAC-OEM2 (recommended by Crutchfield) to convert the speaker level outputs of the new HU to low level line inputs to the Bose amp. This device essentially sits between the wiring harness of the new HU and the stock wiring harness.
4. Do the Bose amp bypass explained earlier in this thread.
5. Run new speaker wire directly from the new HU to each speaker.
IMHO, #5 is the ideal option for optimal sound quality, but the most time intensive.
Options 1-3 continue to use the stock Bose amp, which limits you to whatever s/n it has.
I got my type-S in July 2001 when they were first released, and now 5.5 years later I’m finally upgrading the crappy sound system (I liked the looks of the factory system, plus I finally paid off the loan and need to treat myself). I’m going to first try option #4, the bypass, seems a lot of ppl here do it. If I go nuts and latter decide to upgrade all the speakers I’ll prob attempt #5.
BTW, I got the Pioneer DEH-7800MP, ipod adapter (CD-IB100ii), Sirius tuner (SIR-PNR2). I got the PAC-OEM2 as well, but not going to use it. Next planned purchases are a Sub and probably speakers.
Has anybody ever tried using parts from the amp under the seat to make an adapter? I did the bose amp bypass a while back and I've never been able to get the bundle of shit (ie jumpers and extra wire) to stay together. What I'm thinking of doing is taking the amp apart and building an adapter from the pin side of the plug. It would be an ugly ass adapter but I think it might work. I mean, shit if there was a way just to bridge the wires of the plug side none of us would have to jump them for the bypass. Right? I'm gonna have a look at it a little bit later and see if I can work something out. The hardest part might just be getting the damn thing open! Once I'm in there I'll just see if I can rip it out and salvage some of the wiring on it so that soldering is an option. Tell me what you think!http://forums.clubrsx.com/images/smilies/mr-t.gif
:iptf:
good lord i tried what miztahsparklez suggested...it would help if there were pictures to help explain it(messed up a few times..), but it is way smarter to do that than do the whole pain in the ass bypass.
thanks!
just did the amp bypass. took about an hour but pretty straight forward with the guide on the first page. noise is a LOT better. i can hear a tiny tiny bit of noise when the volume is turned all the way down, but it is probably an order of magnitude less than before.
I am lost. I have the male and femal connector. I just dont know what to do to those wires.. Do I cut the wire and put male connector for the +(?) on one side and the female - (?) on the other side and the end of the wire and connect them like this...
no theres no harness that "bypasses" the bose amp. however there is a harness with rca's on the harness and uses the radio preouts to feed the bose amp.
i also have a harness somewhere i made awhile back that you can just plug it in and it will bypass the bose amp.. however this harness wont let the bose sub work unfortunately.
can anyone help me who has done miztahsparklez method of splicing FL FR RL RR wires and attaching them into the "signal input" of the amp ? which wires are the "signal input" of the amp? is taht on the harness or a different harness under the seat? a picture would be even better with that chart in the beginning of this thread.
I guess I can't get away from splicing anything unless I run all the wires all the speakers to the HU to bypass the boss amp? I really don't want to touch any of the stock wires.
So say money isn't a problem. Nor is time. Is the best thing to do just run new speaker wires to everything if you were to get aftermarket sub and aftermarket head unit?
And just take out all the old speaker wire.
well like i said.. just wire it up in a way under the seat where you can reverse it.. use quick disconnects to hook everything up and you can easily switch back and forth.
and yes it is probably a good idea to run new speaker wires to everything.. but i wouldnt really do it until you decide to amp and replace the interior speakers. an aftermarket sub obviously has its own wiring so you wouldn't use anything stock with that.
so in theory you could leave the stock HU and just replace the bose amp under the seat with an aftermarket one. i'm going to try taking out the bose amp, put an eq and aftermarket amp in..and the eq will have pre out for my aftermarket sub. so the HU as well as the speakers will be stock.
yes it is possible to do that. but the net gains from it all will not be as great as replacing the HU itself. It is important to remember that your sound will only be as good as the source and I feel that the factory bose headunit is a bit lacking.
K, for cliff note purposes for those of us that don't care about time, don't care about money WILL be using stock bose speakers NOT using bose sub:
For optimal sound quality is it ok to just run new speaker wire to all my factory bose speakers from my aftermarket head unit with no aftermarket amp for those speakers? you know just use the aftermarket HU to power the factory speakers in car? Has anyone done this?
Also, I will be running an aftermarket amp for my aftermarket sub with it's own speaker wire. But my main concern here is optimal sound quality.
You can run new speaker wire to each of the six speakers, but its FAR easier & accomplishes the same thing by bypassing the amp.
The wires are not going to give you any better sound quality. The best thing you can do is high-pass your factory bose speakers & that will give you better sound quality & allow for more power & volume.
My Sony has a digital cross over & eq built into the deck, so I just power the speakers from there. With the bass taken out of them, they get a lot louder before they start to distort. They sound okay too.
Haulin thanks for reply man. Yea I too have a sony head unit and found no need to have an amp for my factory bose speakers.
I want to take out the bose amp all together anyways along with the bose sub.
Everyone keeps saying bypassing the amp. Well I want to take the damn thing out all together. Is it best to just run new speaker wire to all 6 speakers or just splice into existing speaker wire that is ran to all 6?
Does the bose amp even run to the 6 regular speakers? Or is the amp stricltly for the sub?
The bose amp powers all speakers and the sub. When you bypass it, you can take the amp out. I just left it there because it weighs nothing & you have to take the passenger seat out to get it out.
The wires go from the head unit, to the amp, to the speakers. You buy a $6 Honda harness adapter which hooks your deck to the wiring harness without splicing it, then you bypass the amp & in effect now your head unit goes directly to the speakers (which is the reason for doing it in the first place).
If you replace the wires, you are going to have to take door skins out, interior panels, get up inside the dash to get at the tweeters; its completely unncessary if you want to keep the bose speakers.
A regular head unit cannot high-pass its outputs, the power of the deck will probably distort and roast your speakers. It probably won't improve the sound quality much over the factory unit.
By highpassing my power outs, I can run 52watts x 4 into the stock speakers without distortion or roasting them. They balance out nicely with my 2 - 12" subs.
I just installed an Alpine CDA-9885 in my '04 Type S today; I will definitely need to do the bypass. I'm thinking I'll do it miztasparklez' way to retain the factory sub. If anyone has pics of this bypass, I'd really appreciate it if you could post or PM them just so I can make sure the plan I've got in my head is correct. Thanks to the OP for the connector pinout, and everyone else for being so informative.
So if I just solder new speaker wires directly to the new headunit wiring harness and run them to the speakers, there should be no need to bypass the bose amp?
Has anyone had any experience with the PAC OEM-2 universal sound system interface and controller when installing an aftermarket head unit with the Bose system?
for those that have questions on how to tie in the sub to the headunit while still bypassing the amp to the door speakers, the above picture is confirmed to how miztah most likely wired his...
description on what you are looking at...
the red wire is your audio input into the amp...if you splice the speaker lead (blue+yellow) into the signal going into the amp, you still bypass the amp going to your speakers, thus giving them power through your headunit, and you are still giving the signal to your bose amp to send to your sub amp in the rear, thus powering your sub.
because of the way subs work, you'd essentially only need to do this for 4 audio in wires... the red, yellow, white, and black wires (rear right and left negative and positive) all should be connected to the amp with the respective speaker wires spliced into them and not connected to the amplifier outputs they originally came from..
actually i believe you still need to have all 4 speakers (8 wires) that way. most of the bass feeds from the front output i think.
but yes, the way you drew it is right.
also, to be sure.. you are plugging the harness back into the amp right?
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